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Trouble dropping anchor

UptownHospitality

Active Member
Messages
15
Reaction score
3
Points
32
Location
New Jersey
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2021
Boat Model
252XE
Boat Length
25
Hey everyone! First I would like to mention that I am relatively new to boating. After owning 3 seadoos in he last 7 years I decided to upgrade. Last year in November, I purchased my first boat, a 2021 252XE with 21 hours. I might have watched every boating video on youtube EVER lol.

Yesterday was the first time I was out on the cove surrounded by tons of other boats already anchored or tied up together. Every time I found an empty spot and try to drop anchor, it would refuse to hold or would appear to hold only to slowly drift and get close to other boats . Wow how frustrating. What am I doing wrong? How can I improve the process. Also it was very windy which i know had a lot to do with it. I am using the stock anchor

Quick note to all you experienced boaters - THE DEATH STARE MOST OF YOU GIVE TO NEWBIE BOATERS IS THE MOST ANNOYING SHIT. TRUST ME I DONT WANT TO CRASH YOUR OLD BOAT (most of the time its a pontoon) OR SCRATCH MY BOAT EITHER!
 
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What’s the bottom? I hear good things about box anchors for sand bottoms and am planning to get one myself. 13 pounds, but I have a 19 footer.
 
99% of the time for a new boater, its insufficient length of rode. For a traditional danforth anchor like you should have, 3-7x the depth of the water in anchor line should be deployed. You'll get the hang of it, ignore crowed fields until you do (heck, if its crowded when I get there I skip it anyway and find somewhere more quiet to setup my day).
 
I was anchored over the weekend at one of my favorite spots that has a sandy bottom. While the current wasnt that crazy, we had some nice wave action every once in a while from passing larger boats. My bow anchor was set deep in the sand, I also deployed a box anchor for the stern. I kept checking the bow anchor each time the waves got crazy because my stern line was not as tight as it was when i first deployed it. Seems that even though the bow, fluke/stock style, anchor was set deep in the sand, there was enough tugging on it that it ever so slightly would drag.

Box anchor never dragged or moved an inch. I purchased the "small" size for the stern and this is the second time using it and it has never budged.
Im thinking of replacing my fluke for the bow with the box anchor. Only issue is how awkard it is to store and deploy. Those suckers are heavy and the spikes loves vinyl and seadeck surfaces.
 
What type of anchor is it?
 
I have 19 pound box anchor and it is awesome vs stuff that came with the boat.
Got this one
 
More rope, more weight, more chain.

Mantus 13lb anchor is a little heavy but will hold. Period
 
Long chain is a big help getting it to hook. I have all of 10 feet of chain and never have it come loose
 
so trying to figure out your conditions up in jERSEY n? lake mud bottom, beach sand what anchor you have? probably a cheap as people will spend a 100k on a boat and get a $20 anchor post a pic. also get at least 10 feet of stainless steel chain and shackles, dont waste money on the cheap stuff believe me we all been there. a little info on your condition and anchor will help.
 
I had same issues with stock anchor, it is simply junk. Upgraded to a Mantus 8lb and never had an issue, sets the first time all the time. I use the Mantus dinghy anchor for the stern.
 
Buy a mantis and never worry again. I believe in taking the bs out of a situation.
 
10 ft 3/8 chain. drop the anchor 20 ft or so ahead of where you want to end up- notice the direction the other boats are pointed and do the same- drop anchor and back the boat up until you have the correct amount of scope (3 to 7x depth depending on how rough the water is) tie off anchor line to a cleat and continue in reverse, dragging the anchor until it sets- you'll know when by the feel of the line, Throw out a rear anchor to prevent the boat from swinging around- this should be a weighted anchor not a danforth type- Yamaha's like to swing around without the stern anchor. I also avoid crowds and keep an eye on those parking around me especially rental pontoons - they rarely have enough anchor rope to set properly. I'll offer advise to anyone anchoring around me if they seem inexperienced, everyone was a newbie at some point.
 
I put my mantis under the seat If u have a reg anchor and it fits in the actor compartment that’s your problem. It isn’t big enough.
 
Sorry you were having issues setting your anchor.

I went with a rule of thumb on the length of chain above the anchor, 1’ of chain for every 1’ of boat length, so I have 20’ of 5/16” stainless steel chain, I also have a swivel between the anchor and the chain. The chain serves a couple of purposes, one being it keeps the shank of the anchor parallel with the bottom which helps the anchor dig in and stay dug in, the second is that it takes the abrasion of the bottom much better than the rode.

So, when you deploy your anchor you need to know the depth of the water, that way you will know the amount of scope that needs to be payed out-mark your rode with tape or some spray paint in 25’ increments-, as others have said 3:1 is the minimum for calm days and 7:1 for rougher / windier days. The length of rode payed out, this is in addition to the chain length, keeps the shank as parallel as possible to the bottom under load, if the amount of scope is too short the wave action will pull upward on the shank / anchor causing it to pull free of the bottom, or make it very difficult to set.

Start by getting the amount of feet of scope up wind ( plus some extra) from your desired spot, then slowly start backing up as you pay out the rode allowing the anchor and chain to lay out evenly on the bottom, keep backing up until you‘ve got the amount of rode payed out then hold onto the rode until the slack comes out of the rode, the anchor may just set itself at this point, sometimes I’ve found I need to give a sharp pull or three to help the flukes get a bite on the bottom, once it sets tie off the rode to the bow cleat and use a bit more reverse power to make the anchor dig in further to make sure the anchor won’t come loose when waves come by, you should see the bow dip down a bit as the boat takes a strain on the rode. This is where having that extra distance up wind from your desired spot comes in handy, just in case your anchor doesn’t take a set right away you‘ve got extra room. If it does set right away you can just let out more rode to adjust your position.

As far as other people go, remember they were new at this too at one point too, so if they’re just going to mad dog you and not offer some helpful suggestions then screw them, they’re just jerks that have no empathy.

There’s nothing like practice to make the butt cheeks relax when you are in close quarters with other boats, spend a few hours one day with no one around setting and retrieving your anchor.
 
Sorry you were having issues setting your anchor.

I went with a rule of thumb on the length of chain above the anchor, 1’ of chain for every 1’ of boat length, so I have 20’ of 5/16” stainless steel chain, I also have a swivel between the anchor and the chain. The chain serves a couple of purposes, one being it keeps the shank of the anchor parallel with the bottom which helps the anchor dig in and stay dug in, the second is that it takes the abrasion of the bottom much better than the rode.

So, when you deploy your anchor you need to know the depth of the water, that way you will know the amount of scope that needs to be payed out-mark your rode with tape or some spray paint in 25’ increments-, as others have said 3:1 is the minimum for calm days and 7:1 for rougher / windier days. The length of rode payed out, this is in addition to the chain length, keeps the shank as parallel as possible to the bottom under load, if the amount of scope is too short the wave action will pull upward on the shank / anchor causing it to pull free of the bottom, or make it very difficult to set.

Start by getting the amount of feet of scope up wind ( plus some extra) from your desired spot, then slowly start backing up as you pay out the rode allowing the anchor and chain to lay out evenly on the bottom, keep backing up until you‘ve got the amount of rode payed out then hold onto the rode until the slack comes out of the rode, the anchor may just set itself at this point, sometimes I’ve found I need to give a sharp pull or three to help the flukes get a bite on the bottom, once it sets tie off the rode to the bow cleat and use a bit more reverse power to make the anchor dig in further to make sure the anchor won’t come loose when waves come by, you should see the bow dip down a bit as the boat takes a strain on the rode. This is where having that extra distance up wind from your desired spot comes in handy, just in case your anchor doesn’t take a set right away you‘ve got extra room. If it does set right away you can just let out more rode to adjust your position.

As far as other people go, remember they were new at this too at one point too, so if they’re just going to mad dog you and not offer some helpful suggestions then screw them, they’re just jerks that have no empathy.

There’s nothing like practice to make the butt cheeks relax when you are in close quarters with other boats, spend a few hours one day with no one around setting and retrieving your anchor.

What do you do when you anchor in 2-3 feet of water? You have so much chain you can't even tie up lol
 
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