DO NOT BUY YAMAHA FSH

[Scottintexas]

I guess it depends on whose Ox is getting gored,

I personally would tell people to buy a Yamaha and a FSH model if it met their needs, just don't count on mother Yamaha or your dealer for anything and if you do feel lucky after swatski's tower issue,

One member who hasn't posted anything about their boating experience except this doesn't sway me, just as the guy with Scarab post last week,

machines have problems, 05-06 boats need to worry about ECU/water, MR1s need to worry about stuck #3 plugs, 05-09 need to worry about scupper, early 1.8l had oil cooler bolt issue, we all need to worry about a cleanout plug blow out, Scarab's have their own set of issues to be aware of,

yes, Murf and Above the best had this issue and I give a lot of weight to their experience but how many boat (and skis) are running around out there with 0 maintenance and not experiencing any issues for years and years and hours of operation.

I changed my bearings this year after 10 years of use and pulling the caps last year for visual inspection just as precaution and a way to get to know my boat a little better,

If your a member here, once every couple of years or if you hear something "different" it wouldn't be a bad idea to pull your impellers/cone and look at the bearing but to say "never buy Yamaha FSH", not me,

 

[Ilmmct]

I have read and understand this to be a $4k-$6k dispute with either/both a deep-pocked insurance company or a product manufacturer. I don’t see how a lawyer or lawsuit could be financially justified unless the lawyer is a family member and his/her communication can add bite to communications with the various parties involved.

I have been involved in some complex cases similar to this and imo @Pcity1019 should continue private and public exploits to; (1) get to the root cause of the damage and understand the full financial impact and (2) continue to navigate the murky waters of both the YES Warranty and the Marine insurance policy.

 

[swatski]

I have read and understand this to be a $4k-$6k dispute with either/both a deep-pocked insurance company or a product manufacturer. I don’t see how a lawyer or lawsuit could be financially justified unless the lawyer is a family member and his/her communication can add bite to communications with the various parties involved.

I have been involved in some complex cases similar to this and imo @Pcity1019 should continue private and public exploits to; (1) get to the root cause of the damage and understand the full financial impact and (2) continue to navigate the murky waters of both the YES Warranty and the Marine insurance policy.

Alternatively, or as a last resort (but better than nothing) - one could proceed through a small claims court, as a breach of warranty case., depending on the situation/data available.

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[AboveTheBest]

While I sympathize with the OP, I feel like this is a losing battle, and ultimately gets chalked up to “Boat Ownership”.

Pretty similar to what happened to my 190, and unfortunately things like his happen. I should have known not to run the engine after I heard the “cavitation”, which turned out to be pump bearings eating themselves apart due to water intrusion.

I’m guessing the O-ring failed after I installed my Lucky-7 cone, and this opened the gates to my 7-page nightmare on this forum.

The nut on my shaft was also mangled and unusable, and I doubt the OP’s was the root of the problem and just a casualty of the actual incident (which I would bet money was an O-ring).

 

[rkgdmd]

That sucks! Very sorry, and I can sympathize! - dealing with Yamaha customer service, not always a pleasant experience indeed.

But your statement is, unfortunately, incorrect.

Every 100 hours or 12 months, whichever comes first:
(5 and 6)
View attachment 100675

Leaky O-ring and water intrusion in the pump (main) bearing is a know issue, and a part of the PM schedule.

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Which boats does that PM concern? For the life of me I can't remember seeing that in my manual for the 2015 242. I must be getting old.

 

[swatski]

Which boats does that PM concern? For the life of me I can't remember seeing that in my manual for the 2015 242. I must be getting old.

Basically, all MYs (model years)...
As long as you have the Yamaha jet boat pump this would apply (5 and 6):

 

[Ratket]

Basically, all MYs (model years)...
As long as you have the Yamaha jet boat pump this would apply (5 and 6):
View attachment 101078

@swatski what’s the “MY” years?

 

[swatski]

@swatski what’s the “MY” years?

Model year. What I mean is - this bearing maintenance is not model specific, applies to 2005-2018 as far as I know, probably also the new redesigned 2019 pump but I have not seen that yet.

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[rkgdmd]

Model year. What I mean is - this bearing maintenance is not model specific, applies to 2005-2018 as far as I know, probably also the new redesigned 2019 pump but I have not seen that yet.

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Jesus...can't believe I missed this. My boat has about 275 hours of all salt water usage. Is there some consensus as to how many hours those bearings should go before being replaced? If they can destroy a perfectly good motor on their way out, might not be a bad idea to periodically replace them. What a half assed design.

 

[swatski]

Jesus...can't believe I missed this. My boat has about 275 hours of all salt water usage. Is there some consensus as to how many hours those bearings should go before being replaced? If they can destroy a perfectly good motor on their way out, might not be a bad idea to periodically replace them. What a half assed design.

Seems that with bad bearings /water intrusion in the main pump (bearing) there is always some kind of warning sign/sound. I don;t know if those go bad and damage the engine without any warning.

At the minimum, every time I pull the pump I would check if the shaft/impeller rotate smoothly, any grinding would be a reason for me to open the cone and check the bearing. Replacing those o-rings is probably not a bad idea either!



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[scokill]

I guess it depends on whose Ox is getting gored,

I personally would tell people to buy a Yamaha and a FSH model if it met their needs, just don't count on mother Yamaha or your dealer for anything and if you do feel lucky after swatski's tower issue,

One member who hasn't posted anything about their boating experience except this doesn't sway me, just as the guy with Scarab post last week,

machines have problems, 05-06 boats need to worry about ECU/water, MR1s need to worry about stuck #3 plugs, 05-09 need to worry about scupper, early 1.8l had oil cooler bolt issue, we all need to worry about a cleanout plug blow out, Scarab's have their own set of issues to be aware of,

yes, Murf and Above the best had this issue and I give a lot of weight to their experience but how many boat (and skis) are running around out there with 0 maintenance and not experiencing any issues for years and years and hours of operation.

I changed my bearings this year after 10 years of use and pulling the caps last year for visual inspection just as precaution and a way to get to know my boat a little better,

If your a member here, once every couple of years or if you hear something "different" it wouldn't be a bad idea to pull your impellers/cone and look at the bearing but to say "never buy Yamaha FSH", not me,

Changing my bearings is on my radar. I think about it every trip. It will be my spring project next year. I don't run WOT much, but Thursday night I ran WOT and was at 10,200 RPMs and 47 MPH with people and bimini up. Not too shabby for the old girl.

 

[cwilliams]

Resurrecting an older thread, but I have a ‘17 190 FSH with 130 hrs… I pulled the cone to check the bearings yesterday and found the grease milky and a few drops of water in the cone. The bearings seam fine… still tight and no detectable play. Can I just repack the accessible bearing with grease, clean/refill the cone, and replace o-ring? Or do I need to replace the bearings? The local dealer quoted approx $1k for the job.

 

[Beachbummer]

Could be the cone, could be the seal. I would repack and check in a week or two.

Bearings are less than 100 in parts. If you find someone local with a press its a 2 hour job if done slowly.

The problem is there is another bearing on the front you can't see. But if it's solid you ought to be ok with another week or two to see if the seepage was from the cone.

I have a press in Houston, for that cost you can ship to me and back. Don't pay a grand. That's a lot.

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

I would add gear lube to the pump leave the grease clean the o ring and seal it with silicon I have done a few posts about adding gear lube to the intermediate bearings and the pump to make them last a long time. I actually purchased a new set of bearings years ago but never needed them with nearly 900 hours on the pumps I had it on stand by just incase I needed it never did ! I believe I paid $150 for the complete set if anyone needs them still in the box never opened .

 

[cwilliams]

Could be the cone, could be the seal. I would repack and check in a week or two.

Bearings are less than 100 in parts. If you find someone local with a press its a 2 hour job if done slowly.

The problem is there is another bearing on the front you can't see. But if it's solid you ought to be ok with another week or two to see if the seepage was from the cone.

I have a press in Houston, for that cost you can ship to me and back. Don't pay a grand. That's a lot.

I hear you. For that $$, I’ll just buy a press myself. What size press would I need?
So to clarify, you’re saying the seal on the forward side behind the impeller could be the culprit. Not sure why I hadn’t thought of that. When I spin the shaft, it’s smooth and quiet. The grease in the bearing doesn’t look milky, so I feel pretty good about it. I think I will take your suggestion and recheck it after the next outing. If it’s getting water in from the seal side I’ll buy a press and rebuild it. Thanks for the help.

 

[cwilliams]

I would add gear lube to the pump leave the grease clean the o ring and seal it with silicon I have done a few posts about adding gear lube to the intermediate bearings and the pump to make them last a long time. I actually purchased a new set of bearings years ago but never needed them with nearly 900 hours on the pumps I had it on stand by just incase I needed it never did ! I believe I paid $150 for the complete set if anyone needs them still in the box never opened .

Any special gear lube? I’ve got some Lucas 8w-90. I’ll search for your previous posts.

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

I just use regular 80 w gear lube and inject it with a dental syringe,, One thing I have learned about Yamaha pumps they are very reliable however if you remove the cone and do not seal it with silicon gasket cement it somehow lets water in the pump around that o ring , next I would not rebuild the pump I honestly doubt it is needed, and in a few months you can revisit the pump and see if it has any issues I have rebuilt many pumps and I had one that if you held the shaft and tried to spin the pump housing it was obviously binding up not spinning free I added gear lube to it put it back in use and got over 200 more hours on it with no issues. As far as I know it is still in use today. 2 things people need to add gear lube to , the pump and the intermediate bearing housing.

 

[14SX190]

Here you go.
Only need to ship it

Check out this item on OfferUp. https://offerup.co/YaqJwV5SIib

 

[cwilliams]

I just use regular 80 w gear lube and inject it with a dental syringe,, One thing I have learned about Yamaha pumps they are very reliable however if you remove the cone and do not seal it with silicon gasket cement it somehow lets water in the pump around that o ring , next I would not rebuild the pump I honestly doubt it is needed, and in a few months you can revisit the pump and see if it has any issues I have rebuilt many pumps and I had one that if you held the shaft and tried to spin the pump housing it was obviously binding up not spinning free I added gear lube to it put it back in use and got over 200 more hours on it with no issues. As far as I know it is still in use today. 2 things people need to add gear lube to , the pump and the intermediate bearing housing.

I meant to type 80w. How do you get oil in the intermediate bearing? Replace zerk with a hose?

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

I meant to type 80w. How do you get oil in the intermediate bearing? Replace zerk with a hose?

I just put in a search for Oil Bath and this is just one of many threads that came up..

https://jetboaters.net/threads/pump-cone-oil-bath-mod-long-term-results.9521/#post-549028