• Welcome to Jetboaters.net!

    We are delighted you have found your way to the best Jet Boaters Forum on the internet! Please consider Signing Up so that you can enjoy all the features and offers on the forum. We have members with boats from all the major manufacturers including Yamaha, Seadoo, Scarab and Chaparral. We don't email you SPAM, and the site is totally non-commercial. So what's to lose? IT IS FREE!

    Membership allows you to ask questions (no matter how mundane), meet up with other jet boaters, see full images (not just thumbnails), browse the member map and qualifies you for members only discounts offered by vendors who run specials for our members only! (It also gets rid of this banner!)

    free hit counter

Atwood's Stainless Scupper Valve

Messages
17
Reaction score
8
Points
12
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2011
Boat Model
SX
Boat Length
24
Going to replace my Scupper valve on my SX240 today. Using the stainless Atwood's model (Atwood PN 66553-3).

What's the recommended way to go about this? 3m 5200 or Normal Silicon so it can be switched out easier should it ever be needed?

(Victim of the brittle plastic scupper valve from Yamaha.)
 
Last edited:
Going to replace my Scupper valve on my SX240 today. Using the stainless Atwood's model (Atwood PN 66553-3).

What's the recommended way to go about this? 3m 5200 or Normal Silicon so it can be switched out easier should it ever be needed?

(Victim of the brittle plastic scupper valve from Yamaha.)
I think I answered my own question.. 5200 is way over kill.
 
I would use 4200 vs silicone. This is a once per boat lifetime repair. Might as well make it as permanent as possible.
 
My current plan is to use two rubber gaskets until I can find 4200 or get it from Amazon.. Seems like it isnt stocked here locally, and I dont want to wait until Amazon can get it to me.. so Ill just 4200 when I get it..
 
What a pain.. how is it people say they are knocking this out in 30 minutes? I hooked it up and got it roughly together in about 30m, but there is no way to get wrenches in there to tighten it in any reasonable fashion without moving exhaust hoses and resonators...

It is now tight enough that I decided I would go at it one more time tomorrow... Got tired of cutting my arms, knuckles, hands... Maybe it just isn't a job for a 6'3 cornfed Irish guy.

Thinking I may buy a basin wrench tomorrow

Milwaukee 2.5 in. Basin Wrench 48-22-7002 - The Home Depot (Cheaper at Harbor Freight, but I don't feel like sitting in Austin traffic for 45m)
 
That fitting should be bedded in standard cure 3M 5200.

 
What a pain.. how is it people say they are knocking this out in 30 minutes? I hooked it up and got it roughly together in about 30m, but there is no way to get wrenches in there to tighten it in any reasonable fashion without moving exhaust hoses and resonators...

It is now tight enough that I decided I would go at it one more time tomorrow... Got tired of cutting my arms, knuckles, hands... Maybe it just isn't a job for a 6'3 cornfed Irish guy.

Thinking I may buy a basin wrench tomorrow

Milwaukee 2.5 in. Basin Wrench 48-22-7002 - The Home Depot (Cheaper at Harbor Freight, but I don't feel like sitting in Austin traffic for 45m)
i found this worked nicely and was relatively cheap for one time use, i cut the handle down (maybe took off half) to get better clearance.
1760705434599.png
 
So while I was down there testing my scupper work...

Does anyone have a problem with this much water (just floating, not running. I did take around the no wake zone to see if it got worse, appears the same but without kill switches disabled i can't be sure) after about 1.5 hours maybe 5 cups of water in the bilge. Do you think I can just slap some 4200 on it without cleaning out the other stuff? (Port and starboard both doing it)
 

Attachments

  • 20251017_144803.jpg
    20251017_144803.jpg
    1.4 MB · Views: 7
  • 20251017_134756.jpg
    20251017_134756.jpg
    1.1 MB · Views: 7
So while I was down there testing my scupper work...

Does anyone have a problem with this much water (just floating, not running. I did take around the no wake zone to see if it got worse, appears the same but without kill switches disabled i can't be sure) after about 1.5 hours maybe 5 cups of water in the bilge. Do you think I can just slap some 4200 on it without cleaning out the other stuff? (Port and starboard both doing it)
No.

You need to clean all that old silicone off and clean the surfaces well and re apply silicone to that area. I would not use 4200 on that. I’m impressed with the Gorilla brand of silicone FWIW.

Just “slapping” some more sealant on it means that leak is still happening at interface where it is leaking from.
 
No.

You need to clean all that old silicone off and clean the surfaces well and re apply silicone to that area. I would not use 4200 on that. I’m impressed with the Gorilla brand of silicone FWIW.

Just “slapping” some more sealant on it means that leak is still happening at interface where it is leaking from

No.

You need to clean all that old silicone off and clean the surfaces well and re apply silicone to that area. I would not use 4200 on that. I’m impressed with the Gorilla brand of silicone FWIW.

Just “slapping” some more sealant on it means that leak is still happening at interface where it is leaking from.
I realized my question was ambiguous. What i meant was would anyone be concerned with that amount of water? I realized it could be taken as does anyone have that amount of water lol...

So after about 5 hours, and actually leaving the no wake zone for 15 minutes of 3/4 throttle, there is maybe a gallon if i was a betting man.. maybe a problem for the off-season. Along with the second bilge, rerunning my transducer, and some gelcoat work.

Scupper valve is fixed at least.. always something though..
 
Back
Top