18/19 24’ E Series speed control

[Rod5]

I had my boat in at the beginning of the year because the speed reading would keep going to ERR then back to the speed. The dealer claimed they fixed it, but its back at it again. This kills the speed control system in the boat as well.

My 2016 just started having speed ERR issues too, just started out of the blue a few weeks ago while on vacation down in FL. Never had any issues before...
Do you recall what your dealer said they did to try to fix it?

 

[swatski]

After breaking my wake wedge by falling on it, off the back of the boat in the parking lot. (Long story and bruise on my leg is nearly gone and wrist is finally feeling better. @Nickp98 ).

Oh, I would like to hear a whole lot more about that (parking lot incident, lolol)!

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[BigAbe75]

Oh, I would like to hear a whole lot more about that (parking lot incident, lolol)!

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Nick's wife saw the whole thing... she seemed amazed that I could walk. Lol!

Was in a rush when we pulled our boat out to help her back their trailer in to retrieve Nick. Foot slipped on the wet pavement and went down hard. Arm or wrist or something came down on the Wake Wedge. I've had a bruise on my leg the perfect rectangle of my wallet for over 2 weeks now. Here's the turnbuckle...notice how those 2 bolts are usually straight!!



So, not quite as exciting as doing something extra smart or dumb and falling off the boat. I actually exited the boat on purpose, but forgot to account for the slick ass ramp.

 

[swatski]

So, does the fact you are fixing a broken wedge indicates the booster thingy is not any better/as a full time substitute?

The wedge can be a bit of PIA to manipulate especially with a lot of people in the boat and on the platform. But, it works. Mine broke a rubber clamp and folded on itself during one of the sessions - we knew it instantly. The wave went from awesome to crap.

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[BigAbe75]

I'll keep them both in the stable for now... but I prefer the Wake Wedge. I don't like all the drag that it (the Booster) adds to the boat. Seems to take a lot more rpms to maintain the correct speed than it does when using the Wake Wedge.

Probably for a quick session for the wife and daughter, the Booster and minimal ballast could be enough to play around. Haven't really experimented with that too much yet. But, you're right... it's a bit easier to attach, if you didn't plan ahead for surfing. Usually, we know ahead of time if we intend to surf (I have to prep the wife so she is content with the setup time... otherwise, it bothers her having to take so long to setup) and I'll put the wedge on before we launch.

 

[Ridesteady]

Good point but no, not even a neutral safety switch. Only the two 6 wire connections with the same 5v analog io as the aps. Those go the the BCU (Boat Control Unit) which then commincates over can bus the the ECMs and the SCU (shift control unit) for the buckets. My guess is that a certain voltage value is equated to neutral and then a large portion of the 0 to 5 v range is dedicated to forward and small range dedicated to reverse. The BCU then takes those values and transforms to legacy values.

A firmware change would most likely be needed to compensate for ridesteady to work. The upside is that once the correct voltage range is set in the ridesteady firmware the boat will handle the buckets on its own. Again I must say that there may have been changes with Connext v2.0. Downloading the service/wiring manuals from Yamaha should get you all you need to know for the 16/17 vs 18/19 boats. As for the voltage ranges if not published then that is something you would need a boat to test with.

Interesting. This means that ~5V is full throttle forward and ~0V is "full throttle" reverse. Somewhere in between there is neutral.

Yes, it would most definitely require a firmware change at a minimum. Hopefully Yamaha will update their firmware to fix the issues their customers are having...

 

[Ridesteady]

An interesting test, for those so inclined to do it, would be to video an E-series boat's Connext screen from idle through launch and settling of the set speed. Let the video go for 30 seconds or so after settling. No music or anything so the engines can be heard. Try to drive in as straight line as possible.

Do this twice - once with no ballast, once with full ballast (where the large difference occurs between set speed and actual speed).

This may give insight into how the speed control has been implemented.

 

[Julian]

My 2016 just started having speed ERR issues too, just started out of the blue a few weeks ago while on vacation down in FL. Never had any issues before...
Do you recall what your dealer said they did to try to fix it?

I wish I had gotten to speak with the tech, but not I did not find out what they did....but it didnt work anyway!

 

[Lmrowen]

Reviving an old thread. My 2020 242X cruise worked perfectly for 2 seasons and just this weekend stopped reaching the set speed. Plenty of RPM capacity available so I assume its a software issue. Did anyone that experienced this resolve the issue with a firmware upgrade? Now I just need to figure out how to do that - hopefully don't need to take to a dealer.