2015 AR192 Performance Question

[dmmoss1]

Was curious if you were having any altitude generated rpm loss…. You’re still a few hundred rpm low.

Any ideas on what to check that may squeeze out a few more RPM's? Obviously I'm way happier with the performance now than when I first got the boat, but always looking to optimize performance....if the cost makes sense. Interested to see how the upgraded intercooler does once installed as well.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Any ideas on what to check that may squeeze out a few more RPM's? Obviously I'm way happier with the performance now than when I first got the boat, but always looking to optimize performance....if the cost makes sense. Interested to see how the upgraded intercooler does once installed as well.

Sorry for asking the altitude question again, I was out on the water and just saw the thread pop and that question came to mind…

After re reading this thread I saw your comment about an upgraded CAC / intercooler.. makes me wonder, how is the water flow out of the outlet from OEM CAC? And, how sure are you that you do not have an air leak on the discharge side of the super charger somewhere? It seems to me, that if you don’t have water flow out of the current CAC it essentially isn’t there.

 

[dmmoss1]

Sorry for asking the altitude question again, I was out on the water and just saw the thread pop and that question came to mind…

After re reading this thread I saw your comment about an upgraded CAC / intercooler.. makes me wonder, how is the water flow out of the outlet from OEM CAC? And, how sure are you that you do not have an air leak on the discharge side of the super charger somewhere? It seems to me, that if you don’t have water flow out of the current CAC it essentially isn’t there.

The water flow from the stock CAC seems strong. The flow increases as RPM's increase, and from my view both streams leaving the side of the boat seem to be about the same strength/flow. I also know the flow is good because the first time out after ribbon delete, I forgot to re-connect the OEM CAC discharge hose and bilged out all that water. But it's connected and flowing strong now.

I'll recheck the air system around the supercharger, but after the first small issue with the hose, I've checked the hoses regularly and they all seem to be tight. But worth a re-check next time I'm in there before I take it back on the water. Again, I appreciate all the help and guidance thus far.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

The water flow from the stock CAC seems strong. The flow increases as RPM's increase, and from my view both streams leaving the side of the boat seem to be about the same strength/flow. I also know the flow is good because the first time out after ribbon delete, I forgot to re-connect the OEM CAC discharge hose and bilged out all that water. But it's connected and flowing strong now.

I'll recheck the air system around the supercharger, but after the first small issue with the hose, I've checked the hoses regularly and they all seem to be tight. But worth a re-check next time I'm in there before I take it back on the water. Again, I appreciate all the help and guidance thus far.

Right on…. As if you need encouragement.. get the bits you need and get that upgraded CAC installed and see that helps.

Looking back at this thread again, that surge of power you felt.. unsure if there was something in the pump or not, makes me suspect the ETV (electronic throttle valve) as a possibility. Like it was hung up / stuck and it finally broke free. I just wonder if its not fully opening.

You have checked the throttle cable to make sure the bulk head mounted potentiometer (sorry can’t remember its name) is getting full throw? In extreme cases too much play in the throttle cable has resulted in that POT not going full throw.

Have you tried running without the air filter installed? Sorry if I have already suggested this.

 

[dmmoss1]

Right on…. As if you need encouragement.. get the bits you need and get that upgraded CAC installed and see that helps.

Looking back at this thread again, that surge of power you felt.. unsure if there was something in the pump or not, makes me suspect the ETV (electronic throttle valve) as a possibility. Like it was hung up / stuck and it finally broke free. I just wonder if its not fully opening.

You have checked the throttle cable to make sure the bulk head mounted potentiometer (sorry can’t remember its name) is getting full throw? In extreme cases too much play in the throttle cable has resulted in that POT not going full throw.

Have you tried running without the air filter installed? Sorry if I have already suggested this.

I haven't tried running without the air filter, but that's a good suggestion. I may try this.

I did adjust the throttle cable because previously it wasn't going fully to the lock. Now it seems to be working correctly, at least for the cable part of the equation. I'll double check that with another person to make sure it's going to the full throw. I'm assuming you mean the potentiometer linked to the throttle cable itself, where the coil spring is that retracts once you reduce throttle?

Lastly, the ETV is something I haven't heard of or obviously looked at. An interesting thought though, and I'll check it out on a schematic and see how it's all linked in. I like learning how the systems work in new toys.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

I haven't tried running without the air filter, but that's a good suggestion. I may try this.

I did adjust the throttle cable because previously it wasn't going fully to the lock. Now it seems to be working correctly, at least for the cable part of the equation. I'll double check that with another person to make sure it's going to the full throw. I'm assuming you mean the potentiometer linked to the throttle cable itself, where the coil spring is that retracts once you reduce throttle?

Lastly, the ETV is something I haven't heard of or obviously looked at. An interesting thought though, and I'll check it out on a schematic and see how it's all linked in. I like learning how the systems work in new toys.

Yes that is the POT I’m talking about, the one that the throttle cable is hooked to. That POT sends the signal to the ETV on the end of the intake manifold on where or how far open the butterfly valve is, a throttle plate if you will. It is controlled by a servo… someone on here a while back had an issue with theirs… if I remember correctly it was making a sort of ringing sound. Anyway, if that butterfly isn’t opening all the way that would limit how much the engine revs. I believe its one of the things in the manual regarding long term storage / fogging that the fogging oil lubricates. I do not think you can move it by hand without damaging it.. however, if you can see it and its pivot point perhaps a little shot of light oil on the pivot points just for good measure.

I removed my air filters for a speed run test against having the paper elements installed as I’m chasing rpm’s at high altitude, what I found was that I picked up 200 rpm with the paper elements removed. I then bought RIVA K&N style filters and put them in, and the RIVA filters were that same as no filters in regards to rpm. Just make sure the air box is super clean before you make your runs.. I made runs up and back over the same path to make sure to keep the testing the same.