2020 AR210 Stiff Steering

[HangOutdoors]

That is your bucket cable to raise and lower the bucket in front of your jet. That way you get Forward, Reverse and what they call Neutral.

It may be different on different engines or models. I am unsure.

 

[Yambers]

Looks like that is where it corroded on mine, the port side. Still going to possibly cut them apart. The rubber boot is just friction held, which is crap imho.

I am going to put some SS hose clamps, small, on the boot ends to hold them in place. Also going to slap Wax, basically toilet rings, all over the boots and shaft there and make that a maintenance item to check monthly. That should keep the water out for the most part.

Also, once I was done, I grabbed one of the fins and pulled, to my surprise the the nozzles moved very easily and the steering wheel turned. I know it wasn't like this new and it was a lot harder, since when I put on the CJS Fins originally I remember having to pull and push with more effort to move them. Perhaps mine had issues from the get go.

Can anyone else move their jets from side to side easily from the nozzle? Is that the norm?

I can move mine with ease if I move by the keel or the nozzles.

 

[drewkaree]

Can anyone else move their jets from side to side easily from the nozzle? Is that the norm?

Yep, mine are easy @ the nozzle. I feel like it's just bragging at this point.

 

[Yambers]

Yep, mine are easy @ the nozzle. I feel like it's just bragging at this point.

@HangOutdoors an move his with ease now as well, so we arent braggin. Lol

I agree with him and think his was faulty from the beginning.. kudos to him for takin the initiative to do it himself. Probably saved him weeks of missed boating..

 

[VitaminSea]

That is your bucket cable to raise and lower the bucket in front of your jet. That way you get Forward, Reverse and what they call Neutral.

It may be different on different engines or models. I am unsure.

There are two cables circled. The one in the center that comes from the hull is the “bucket cable” (Similar to the steering cable). I was wondering about the smaller braided wire that connects to the side of the pump housing. I’m not familiar with that, or it’s purpose.

 

[WREKS]

That is a bonding wire to remove unwanted electrical charge that can accumulate on the composite plastic reverse gate. Somewhere in the threads it is explained more fully.

 

[mrcleanr6]

Yes thats a bonding wire like wreks said but there was a corrosion issue where the shift cable ends/ball joint was dissolving away making for a bit of a safety issue. They installed that wire to bond the cable and join to the rest of the pump.

 

[WREKS]

I am editing post #126. The composite plastic reverse gate interrupts any possible current flow between the control cable and the sacrificial anode. The term often used is 'electrolysis.' That bonding wire helps prevent that. See Wire Lead

 

[anmut]

Looks like that is where it corroded on mine, the port side. Still going to possibly cut them apart. The rubber boot is just friction held, which is crap imho.

I am going to put some SS hose clamps, small, on the boot ends to hold them in place. Also going to slap Wax, basically toilet rings, all over the boots and shaft there and make that a maintenance item to check monthly. That should keep the water out for the most part.

Also, once I was done, I grabbed one of the fins and pulled, to my surprise the the nozzles moved very easily and the steering wheel turned. I know it wasn't like this new and it was a lot harder, since when I put on the CJS Fins originally I remember having to pull and push with more effort to move them. Perhaps mine had issues from the get go.

Can anyone else move their jets from side to side easily from the nozzle? Is that the norm?

yep, I center my rudder from the rear as part of my recovery process. Really glad to read it was easy!

 

[captainhook]

IMO these shit cables are basically a wear item. It shouldn’t be this way, but it is. The rubber boots are garbage and slip off when brand new. Better safe than sorry replacing them when necessary because you don’t wanna be without steering; that could get expensive quick.

 

[RobbieO]

IMO these shit cables are basically a wear item. It shouldn’t be this way, but it is. The rubber boots are garbage and slip off when brand new. Better safe than sorry replacing them when necessary because you don’t wanna be without steering; that could get expensive quick.

How about a zip tie instead of a clamp?

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

Looks like that is where it corroded on mine, the port side. Still going to possibly cut them apart. The rubber boot is just friction held, which is crap imho.

I am going to put some SS hose clamps, small, on the boot ends to hold them in place. Also going to slap Wax, basically toilet rings, all over the boots and shaft there and make that a maintenance item to check monthly. That should keep the water out for the most part.

Also, once I was done, I grabbed one of the fins and pulled, to my surprise the the nozzles moved very easily and the steering wheel turned. I know it wasn't like this new and it was a lot harder, since when I put on the CJS Fins originally I remember having to pull and push with more effort to move them. Perhaps mine had issues from the get go.

Can anyone else move their jets from side to side easily from the nozzle? Is that the norm?

The test for bad cables is to grab a nozzle and move the steering from one side to the other while the boat is on the trailer it should move pretty easily and smooth as for the boots get some small thin zip ties and put them on the boots they won't harm them and they will hold them in place. Also while you are playing with the boat lube all the pivot points of the reverse hoods and the nozzles inspect the reverse hoods when open and be sure they are even and NOT in the way of the opening where the water exits the nozzle also be sure they are even when in neutral that way you have similar thrusts and the boat won't rotate.

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

Also keep in mind as far as I know Yamaha does not use ZINC anodes they use magnesium I add zinc because I run salt water so if you also run in salt water you may want to add some zinc anodes to the pumps.

 

[AZMark]

@HangOutdoors an move his with ease now as well, so we arent braggin. Lol

I agree with him and think his was faulty from the beginning.. kudos to him for takin the initiative to do it himself. Probably saved him weeks of missed boating..

Dammit mine have been difficult since I bought the boat with 12 hours. I could never just move the rudder from the back.
I guess I need to say bye bye to $400 and tear into this too.
Thanks for documenting this @HangOutdoors.

Do you all stop receiving updates on threads you’re following on here? They keep stopping on random threads.

 

[drewkaree]

Dammit mine have been difficult since I bought the boat with 12 hours. I could never just move the rudder from the back.
I guess I need to say bye bye to $400 and tear into this too.
Thanks for documenting this @HangOutdoors.

Do you all stop receiving updates on threads you’re following on here? They keep stopping on random threads.

I'm wondering if it would be better to run some CRC 6-56 through a new set (or as preventative yearly maintenance) instead of oil, or perhaps their heavy-duty marine corrosion inhibitor. @AZMark you might want to try that stuff first, instead of oil/gear lube, or perhaps a PB Blaster or something like that, see if you can get it to move better. @swatski pointed out the CRC stuff a while back, and I bought a gallon and have been using it on practically anything that moves, trailer or boat! Seems to have great staying power, and it seems to leave behind a little film, so if that frees anything up, it'll keep working after initial application.

As to the stopped updates, doesn't seem to be happening, although I wouldn't necessarily know until it struck me to check.

 

[HangOutdoors]

Dammit mine have been difficult since I bought the boat with 12 hours. I could never just move the rudder from the back.
I guess I need to say bye bye to $400 and tear into this too.
Thanks for documenting this @HangOutdoors.

Do you all stop receiving updates on threads you’re following on here? They keep stopping on random threads.

My steering wasnt this smooth when i bought it.

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

Assuming you tried the boat with the new cables installed , did you wax the cables also ?

 

[HangOutdoors]

Jeff i didnt yet, still working on trolling motor mount, will be waxing them before they see water.

 

[MilesPrower]

I guess I need to say bye bye to $400 and tear into this too.

Try oiling the cables first. That worked for me. More than 200 hours of running in saltwater after oiling the cables, my steering wheel still turns effortlessly, and if I grab the rudder and push/pull, the steering wheel moves accordingly without much force on the rudder.

 

[HangOutdoors]

Had the boat out today. Steering was better by far even from day one. Effortless steering made watersports a breeze.