• Welcome to Jetboaters.net!

    We are delighted you have found your way to the best Jet Boaters Forum on the internet! Please consider Signing Up so that you can enjoy all the features and offers on the forum. We have members with boats from all the major manufacturers including Yamaha, Seadoo, Scarab and Chaparral. We don't email you SPAM, and the site is totally non-commercial. So what's to lose? IT IS FREE!

    Membership allows you to ask questions (no matter how mundane), meet up with other jet boaters, see full images (not just thumbnails), browse the member map and qualifies you for members only discounts offered by vendors who run specials for our members only! (It also gets rid of this banner!)

    free hit counter

Additional Bow Cleat Install under Anchor Locker Lid

Mully262

Jet Boat Lover
Messages
168
Reaction score
147
Points
82
Location
River Falls, WI (Twin Cities Metro)
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2021
Boat Model
212SD
Boat Length
21
ADMIN copied this thread to its own thread because it has interesting information on installing a bow cleat (item #2 in his list below).


That is what I heard when I was at the Lake Minnetonka location.

On a side note, what add-ons are you getting? Our 212SD is sitting on the showroom floor and wondering if there is anything I want to do to it until I pick it up in April.

You got the 212SD as well?? You can probably count on one hand how many 212SDs will be in our area this summer. Congrats!! I imagine we will bump into each other on the Croix??

As far as add-ons:
Dealer installing:
1. Two SeaBlaze X2 underwater lights.
2. Pop-up cleat inside the anchor locker. (Look at the 252s - comes standard. That way when you anchor, you don't have to use the bow cleats)
Yamaha 252SD (2021-) | BoatTEST Go to 2:20 mark for example.
3. LED trailer lights (I bought them, just having them install. The back trailer and transom lights are not LED. Which is lame)
** These three things are going to cost me ~$1600 material/labor. The SeaBlaze X2 are $375 a piece, and the labor is ~$500. Something I COULD do on my own, like the trailer lights, but I defer to them for a professional install. The light switch for example, will match the bilge/horn switch.**
Things I bought when purchased:
1. Mooring cover
2. Anchor
3. Yamaha Throw PFD (fits nicely in the pocket behind either bucket seats)
Things I bought/installed since:
1. BoatBuckle Transom Straps
2. Two Mission Sentry boat fenders (they are from the Lake Minnetonka area, google them. Spendy, but I am going to give them a try)
4. Standard Horizon HX870 Marine Radio (I will go to Voyageurs, Apostles, Door County, and maybe Isle Royale)
5. Slide Anchor: Sand Spike
6. Slide Anchor: Anchor Buddy (Bungee between the anchor and anchor line, take some of the shock off those big boat Croix rollers)
7. SandShark Anchor Bungee Dock Line (for the Sand Spike)

I have really tossed around the idea of a secondary chartplotter. But I will only flush mount. The way the 12.3" Connext is set up, all options for me are about 1/2" - 1" too big. So instead, I am going to use a dedicated "old phone" with the Navionics app installed. Also tossed around upgrading audio, but that is a $2,000-$2,500 upgrade. I will get through next season, and if I am not happy, maybe next off season.

Sorry for the long list. I got the boat mid-December.... so I have been trying to do all the prep work since I can't take it on the water. And call me weird, but I prefer to go new with a new boat. I think it is bad luck to bring things from the old boat on a new boat. Superstitious.

Congrats again!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
You got the 212SD as well?? You can probably count on one hand how many 212SDs will be in our area this summer. Congrats!! I imagine we will bump into each other on the Croix??

As far as add-ons:
Dealer installing:
1. Two SeaBlaze X2 underwater lights.
2. Pop-up cleat inside the anchor locker. (Look at the 252s - comes standard. That way when you anchor, you don't have to use the bow cleats)
Yamaha 252SD (2021-) | BoatTEST Go to 2:20 mark for example.
3. LED trailer lights (I bought them, just having them install. The back trailer and transom lights are not LED. Which is lame)
** These three things are going to cost me ~$1600 material/labor. The SeaBlaze X2 are $375 a piece, and the labor is ~$500. Something I COULD do on my own, like the trailer lights, but I defer to them for a professional install. The light switch for example, will match the bilge/horn switch.**
Things I bought when purchased:
1. Mooring cover
2. Anchor
3. Yamaha Throw PFD (fits nicely in the pocket behind either bucket seats)
Things I bought/installed since:
1. BoatBuckle Transom Straps
2. Two Mission Sentry boat fenders (they are from the Lake Minnetonka area, google them. Spendy, but I am going to give them a try)
4. Standard Horizon HX870 Marine Radio (I will go to Voyageurs, Apostles, Door County, and maybe Isle Royale)
5. Slide Anchor: Sand Spike
6. Slide Anchor: Anchor Buddy (Bungee between the anchor and anchor line, take some of the shock off those big boat Croix rollers)
7. SandShark Anchor Bungee Dock Line (for the Sand Spike)

I have really tossed around the idea of a secondary chartplotter. But I will only flush mount. The way the 12.3" Connext is set up, all options for me are about 1/2" - 1" too big. So instead, I am going to use a dedicated "old phone" with the Navionics app installed. Also tossed around upgrading audio, but that is a $2,000-$2,500 upgrade. I will get through next season, and if I am not happy, maybe next off season.

Sorry for the long list. I got the boat mid-December.... so I have been trying to do all the prep work since I can't take it on the water. And call me weird, but I prefer to go new with a new boat. I think it is bad luck to bring things from the old boat on a new boat. Superstitious.

Congrats again!
The cleat is a great idea, however not sure how it will perform in the real world. If in calm conditions I think it will work great. However if it’s not calm just not sure how the rope will not wreck the locker cover. Let me know how this works out, as I wouldn’t mind adding this as well.
 
The cleat is a great idea, however not sure how it will perform in the real world. If in calm conditions I think it will work great. However if it’s not calm just not sure how the rope will not wreck the locker cover. Let me know how this works out, as I wouldn’t mind adding this as well.
The rope goes out under the locker lid....so shouldn't have any impact on the lid.....or am I missing something?

As for parts and production delays....this is a worldwide problem. Pretty much every country has had some level of Covid shutdowns - this has fowled up movement of parts and containers worldwide! Hopefully these new strains aren't resistant to the vaccines!
 
The rope goes out under the locker lid....so shouldn't have any impact on the lid.....or am I missing something?

As for parts and production delays....this is a worldwide problem. Pretty much every country has had some level of Covid shutdowns - this has fowled up movement of parts and containers worldwide! Hopefully these new strains aren't resistant to the vaccines!

The anchor rope should guide through the channels on either side of the locker cover. With a 5:1 anchor line/depth ratio, I don't anticipate much lateral movement... but I will keep an eye on it this summer and post some pics for add on ideas if it works as planned!
 
The anchor rope should guide through the channels on either side of the locker cover. With a 5:1 anchor line/depth ratio, I don't anticipate much lateral movement... but I will keep an eye on it this summer and post some pics for add on ideas if it works as planned!
with a line tied to the cleat (IE the cleat UP), can you close the anchor locker lid?
 
On the 252 you can close the anchor locker lid with the bow cleat up and the anchor rope wrapped around the cleat. I'll let Mully give the definitive answer for the aftermarket addition of the bow cleat on the 212.
 
with a line tied to the cleat (IE the cleat UP), can you close the anchor locker lid?

Just FYI, added a bow cleat to my 242 a couple years ago. With cleat up and rode tied, locker closes just fine. No worse for the wear with the line coming out.
 
with a line tied to the cleat (IE the cleat UP), can you close the anchor locker lid?

Follow-up on this one. Ended up adding line chocks to ensure the anchor rode doesn't rub against the anchor locker, where it seems sharp enough to eventually fray the line. I removed the ladder, since I wont use it. Was able to use 2 of the existing ladder holes, drilled two more, and just screwed back in the back two holes with the hardware left over. (I will tidy that up later)

The cleat can be used without the chocks and keeping the ladder.

View attachment 146231View attachment 146231View attachment 146232View attachment 146233
 
@Mully262 Nice set up. Did you have part numbers or links to share?

The Schaeffer line chocks:
You can certainly get cheaper on Amazon, these are $65 each. But Schaefer is "no messing around" marine hardware.
Super easy install, took me 10 minutes for both. Maybe.

As far as the pop-up cleat, I had the dealer install it, OEM to what is on the hull. It cost me about $250 labor/parts.
 
Did you consider putting the cleat in rotated 90 degrees? Wondering if it would look better like that and/or be stronger? (Not saying it looks bad....just surprised me to see it sideways.

If it was 90 degrees, you would need the line chocks for sure. Unless you are thinking alongside the channel where the line would come out. 90 degrees, centered in the locker, wouldnt work well.

Initially I tried to have both the cleat and the ladder. If I was to do it again, I would drop the cleat back further.
 
Back
Top