AMP Panel Redesign - Adding Hinges/Swivel - Questions

[ralphsmithiii]

I currently have my AMP board mounted behind the helm like many others of you do, bolted into the mold/fiberglass directly behind the gauges/radio. However, being a larger than normal human, I HATE the fact that I have to have someone else mount it or unmount it due to not physically being back to fit into that area, even laying on my side my chest barely fits through that door.

What I'm thinking about is adding hinges to the right side of the mold where you'd have it bolted down to and some type of quick disconnect to the left side, closest to the stern side. If I could mount those then just slide the board onto the hinges then if I did want to access the amps settings, service it, etc, I could just reach in there, pop the quick connect, and swing it out towards the opening.

The problem I'm having so is I don't know the correct name of a good "quick release" mechanism. I'm thinking basic marine grade stainless hinges (2-3) should be plenty to hold the board and then 1-2 quick connects/releases on the other side. Here's what I've found thus far but I feel like there's better and maybe even cheaper ways of doing this:

Amazon.com : Marine Part Depot New 316 Stainless Steel Lockable Hold Down CLAMP : Sports & Outdoors

Amazon.com : Marine Part Depot New 316 Stainless Steel Lockable Hold Down CLAMP : Sports & Outdoors

www.amazon.com

Amazon.com : Marine Grade Stainless steel shortside hinge 2-1/4" with Thickness 1/8" : Sports & Outdoors

Amazon.com : Marine Grade Stainless steel shortside hinge 2-1/4" with Thickness 1/8" : Sports & Outdoors

www.amazon.com

Any suggestions/better options/etc? Or, should I just consider moving the amp panel to the battery compartment since I'm going to be running all new power/ground anyways?

 

[Andy NJ]

put a bolt through from the helm side, hold that in with nut, then the amp board, then a wing nut.

 

[ralphsmithiii]

put a bolt through from the helm side, hold that in with nut, then the amp board, then a wing nut.

Jesus, that's super simple. That may be the ticket then instead of a quick disconnect, for the cost.

 

[Benny Sibbitt]

That's what I did on my amp board.
2 screws and wing nuts at the top

 

[Julian]

@Mainah did I read that you put yours on hinges?

 

[Mainah]

I did add hinges. I used stainless gate hinges on the aft starboard side of the board and kept the bolts on the port side. The slim stright part is on the fiber glass and the long gate part on the board. When I remove those two bolts on the port side and the panel swings open until it touches the the back of the bow seating support. I added a third amp
on the back of the board now and added a DSP to the front. I will have to take a new photo.

Wing nuts are an interesting idea. I am a fan of lock nuts in the boat so things don’t come loose.

 

[Sbrown]

I also used hinges on my amp board. I placed a SS piano hinge on the starboard side of the board and used a SS barrel bolt on the non-hinged side (side facing the compartment door). Easy to open and easy to work on the electronics from outside the compartment.

 

[Markk]

https://jetboaters.net/threads/amplifier-mounting-boards.13309/post-265672

Here’s how I did hinged amp board. Used Aluminum channel which I tapped/threaded for a quick latch to hold board in place.



Here’s another view that I didn’t post before.

 

[ralphsmithiii]

I also used hinges on my amp board. I placed a SS piano hinge on the starboard side of the board and used a SS barrel bolt on the non-hinged side (side facing the compartment door). Easy to open and easy to work on the electronics from outside the compartment.

If this holds steady with no issues, I may give this approach a shot. If I'm "seeing" this right, you can stand/kneel/sit outside of the compartment, unbolt the barrel bolt and swing/pull the amp board towards the opening thus having a clear shot at it from outside where the swim locker is at? That or something very close to that would be super ideal for me.

 

[ralphsmithiii]

https://jetboaters.net/threads/amplifier-mounting-boards.13309/post-265672

Here’s how I did hinged amp board. Used Aluminum channel which I tapped/threaded for a quick latch to hold board in place.

Pretty solid setup. As much as I can respect the work involved the idea of me trying to get in there and do something like that is painful just to think about, lol! I do wish sometimes I was a smaller person.

 

[Markk]

I did add hinges. I used stainless gate hinges on the aft starboard side of the board and kept the bolts on the port side. The slim stright part is on the fiber glass and the long gate part on the board. When I remove those two bolts on the port side and the panel swings open until it touches the the back of the bow seating support. I added a third amp
on the back of the board now and added a DSP to the front. I will have to take a new photo.

Wing nuts are an interesting idea. I am a fan of lock nuts in the boat so things don’t come loose.

Show us updated photos when you get a chance. I’d like to see your newer design.

I took inspiration from your board originally, but sounds like it’s changed a lot since then.

 

[Sbrown]

If this holds steady with no issues, I may give this approach a shot. If I'm "seeing" this right, you can stand/kneel/sit outside of the compartment, unbolt the barrel bolt and swing/pull the amp board towards the opening thus having a clear shot at it from outside where the swim locker is at? That or something very close to that would be super ideal for me.

It sounds like you have an accurate picture. As far as holding steady, it's made it through one season so far including being towed over 3000 miles and a trip to Bimini and back, although it wasn't crazy rough on the crossings, it was rough enough during one stretch for the tower to make odd noises.

 

[Mainah]

Show us updated photos when you get a chance. I’d like to see your newer design.

I took inspiration from your board originally, but sounds like it’s changed a lot since then.

Same board. Just added the hinges and more electronic stuff. Your use of the exterior boards and aluminum seems like a great option instead of buying pricey giant sheets of starboard. Likely great for speaker backing rings too even if needs to be a split ring for subs.