Anchor

[Noko]

I've done some looking and it looks like people seem to like the box anchor. I'll be on a fresh water lake with minimal current. The bottom is sandy from what I have seen. Any inputs? What size box?

 

[Aaron]

oh man I have had all kinds of experiences with anchors and our boats. I have had my boat for about 3 months now. Been in some wind, calm etc...really no currents..its a dammed lake. Anyway...I tried a a couple different sized fluke anchors, both of them didn't seem to set too well...or actually they set and then with the sway of the boat moving back and forth (it moves a LOT more than my stern drive every did because there is no out drive to keep it in place), they fluke anchor always seemed to let loose.
Then I bought a box anchor...it seemed to work a lot better because if the boat moved around, the box anchor had a chance to flip and then set again. Even the box anchor seemed to let loose on me here and there. I did a lot better by using the box anchor at the bow and a fluke anchor at the stern if I really wanted to sit still.
But to answer your question...box anchor all the way.

 

[Noko]

Thanks Aaron.

 

[Magic]

We have the large box, but at the top of the lakes we hang out at there is a lot of current... Going to try the baby box for normal circumstances this year knowing we have the large if we need it....

 

[txav8r]

If your having issues with a box anchor staying set, just let out more rode. Your too short on your scope if it is coming loose. Forget about the claims of 2 to 1 scope. That is on a dead calm, no drift, no wind, day. A box will stop moving if you put out enough scope, even if it is just sitting on the bottom and not embedded! A box anchor is a "set and forget" anchor, but ALL anchors require you to pay attention to drift if you don't put out excess scope.

You can also slow the "swing" on the end of the rode, @Aaron , by putting out a drift anchor on the stern. I used to see them being too expensive and forced you to improvise or make your own (I have used a 5 gallon bucket!). But I found one at Academy Sports for cheap! And it will slow the movement of the "swing" to more like a stern drive, although it will probably slow it more than that. I didn't have the anchor for the new boat on our first launch, so on a 20-30mph day, all I did was throw out the drift anchor, and it slowed our wind driven drift to a crawl in open water.
http://www.academy.com/webapp/wcs/s...LA_006031785&gclid=CMudxpGvn74CFWNgMgod_XQAaA
Anyway, this works great to keep the swing down, and it is a great open water help...especially in an emergency, when your anchor won't set or reach the bottom, and you are dead in the water. Ought to be required equipment.

 

[cane.mba]

The drift anchors totally kick butt if you hook a Tarpon or Shark while kayak fishing!

I may have to give it a shot with the Yamaha.

 

[Magic]

If your having issues with a box anchor staying set, just let out more rode. Your too short on your scope if it is coming loose.

We use 8' of vinyl clad chain on our box anchor even though it says you don't have to..... Rock solid in all our conditions!

 

[Julian]

Never had my box anchor budge, but I use 3-1 rode

 

[Murf'n'surf]

The proper scope is key to a successful set of any type of anchor. The second most important item is having 4-6' of chain between your anchor and anchor line. The chain helps weight the line down so that the boat pulls the anchor horizontally along the floor to set it and not pull vertically which disrupts the set and will cause skipping along the floor. You box anchor guys supposedly don't need chain but I have a different opinion depending what kind of bottom you anchor in (rocky bottoms chew anchor line).

To stop swinging around on your bow anchor, you can toss out a small anchor off of your stern to counteract the wind or current. Be cautious using a stern anchor, don't hold your stern facing into waves and watch your tides, adjusting lines as needed.