Anyone Ran Speaker Wires Inside The Tower in 2015+ AR240s?

[FloJet]

Lol I forgot to mention too that the photos up there are of my old pro485s. Just a shame I have not taken full pic of my 410s yet. But attached is the swivel mount I have. These were broken so I had to take a pic of it to send back to Wetsounds for replacements last summer. I do love the quick connect as I take my speakers down after every outing.

 

[FloJet]

This is what I used to run all add on wires thru out the boat. By Klein Tools at home depot. Very useful tool. I was kinda skeptical at first but I rigged it at the end so I can tie the wires to it and it works nicely.

 

[swatski]

@swatski sent ya a PM on this. I have both of my rev 410s on the tower and adding led wires so have little knowledge of it. Also If you keep the tower wiring on the bar closest to bow area, you are clear all the way thru.

Do you know if that forward bar of the tower (which is thicker) is 3" in diameter?

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[FloJet]

Not quite sure. Never measured them. I thought someone posted the specs out on the forum somewhere one day?

 

[MicahH]

I also used a fishtape to run tower speaker wires up through the tower. It took a couple tries but I got it! I have an AR240 as well. I ran them down the tower then flipped my tower forward and followed the marine light wires through the bottom of the tower where it run down the side and into the cooler storage area. I didn't need to drill a hole and punch through the tower at the bottom this way. From there you can run up the side right to the head unit. I have Bazooka's so also used the swivel mounts. I'd post pics now but my baby is in storage. I'll post once she's out though! Very clean look.

 

[FloJet]

Pretty much same with me. Have lots of wires in the tower so took a while tho. Sorry for the mess on the boat. Trying to get lots done before season.

 

[robert843]

@swatski did you ever do this? Could you get the wires through the front bar?

 

[swatski]

@swatski did you ever do this? Could you get the wires through the front bar?

Nope, unfortunately Kate wouldn't let me. She declared all those bullet speakers look wrong on an AR tower... But she likes a sound bar (???)... So I'm doing nothing with the tower.
Oh, yeah, she did like some set of designer "speakers" on a Centurion wake boat, I found out those cost $14,000, lol. Go figure.

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[FloJet]

Wires have to go in the bar closest to the bow. Very difficult to get them thru at the bottom as that hole us pretty short. When you fold the tower the hole with nav lights going into is the one to use for speaker wires

 

[robert843]

I'm wondering if a sound bar is my best option as well I'm more interested in the cockpit hearing the music them people behind the boat. I was surprised yesterday when I folded the tower how low it came mine actually folded to be even with the windshield with the stock cords.

 

[FloJet]

Yup they fold down fairly easy. I have 2 sets of 12 gauge wires and 2 sets of led wires being ran thru the bottom to the front tower bar. Just takes time as the hole at the bottom is small and the angle makes fishing wires thru kinda tricky. You are almost best to remove the tower and run the wires thru the expose hole. When you fold the tower down, the hole is still pinched off a little. Kinda of a pain.

 

[swatski]

I'm wondering if a sound bar is my best option as well I'm more interested in the cockpit hearing the music them people behind the boat. I was surprised yesterday when I folded the tower how low it came mine actually folded to be even with the windshield with the stock cords.

And - BTW - if you still want swim deck speakers, the Polks DB651 fit in the swim deck without any modifications to the cushions, albeit it is a tight fit.


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[robert843]

am I reading this right can the polks really be purchased on Amazon for $65 a pair that can't be correct can it?

https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB651-Certified-Speakers/dp/B000P0PF9G

 

[swatski]

am I reading this right can the polks really be purchased on Amazon for $65 a pair that can't be correct can it?

https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB651-Certified-Speakers/dp/B000P0PF9G

Yes, exactly right! Best freaking deal. Pair those with Clarion XC1410 (4 speakers per amp at 4 ohms - a no sweat install) or one of those Kenwood amps the boys are going nuts about, and you are done. Well, get the BassLink (powered) sub for $160 - if you ask me - you have a Slam Pack, lol. Seriously.

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[ThatJeepGuy]

And - BTW - if you still want swim deck speakers, the Polks DB651 fit in the swim deck without any modifications to the cushions, albeit it is a tight fit.
View attachment 54592

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That thing must be a tight fit! I like it!

 

[robert843]

Yes, exactly right! Best freaking deal. Pair those with Clarion XC1410 (4 speakers per amp at 4 ohms - a no sweat install) or one of those Kenwood amps the boys are going nuts about, and you are done. Well, get the BassLink (powered) sub for $160 - if you ask me - you have a Slam Pack, lol. Seriously.

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How do you like the polks? I was going to buy Kicker KM65's again because I really liked them with just a Sony head unit they shook the boat with the bass 4 of them threw off but at half the price I'm now questioning it. I thought about that Kenwood amp but I'm not a big fan of Kenwood and I have seen someone Dyno that amp and it did achieve the rated numbers and a little above but he was testing at 14.75 volt which isn't really achievable in my boat which makes me think it will likely under perform those numbers running 11.9 volt to 13 volt the boat likely runs in. I'm not trying to spend a ton of money on the audio upgrade this time but the boats factory stuff sucks and I can't hear the radio while running at 37 mph which is unacceptable.

 

[swatski]

How do you like the polks? I was going to buy Kicker KM65's again because I really liked them with just a Sony head unit they shook the boat with the bass 4 of them threw off but at half the price I'm now questioning it. I thought about that Kenwood amp but I'm not a big fan of Kenwood and I have seen someone Dyno that amp and it did achieve the rated numbers and a little above but he was testing at 14.75 volt which isn't really achievable in my boat which makes me think it will likely under perform those numbers running 11.9 volt to 13 volt the boat likely runs in. I'm not trying to spend a ton of money on the audio upgrade this time but the boats factory stuff sucks and I can't hear the radio while running at 37 mph which is unacceptable.

The factory speakers need to go, fast! Not even funny.
To me - a set of Polk DB651s is a solid tier one. Tried and true, those are very nice speakers and for the money it would be impossible to do better. I now have 10 of those and like it, a lot. I listen to a lot of classical and opera, when I'm alone anyway, lol, and I am impressed with crisp and soft sound, yet I can play those louder than I would ever need to without any distortion. And no concerns with battery capacity.

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[swatski]

@swatski did you ever do this? Could you get the wires through the front bar?

So now that we surf, I was finally permitted to get the tower speakers, lol.
I really wanted the JL 880s but those were deemed way too bland in the "looks" department to pass admiral-esthetics muster. However, the ICON8s were aproved. I guess that Teutonic look can be some kind of a draw? IDK. But whatever - it works out fine, those Icons are crazy nice.

So now I need to run the wires.

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[jameskeller76]

So now that we surf, I was finally permitted to get the tower speakers, lol.
I really wanted the JL 880s but those were deemed way too bland in the "looks" department to pass admiral-esthetics muster. However, the ICON8s were aproved. I guess that Teutonic look can be some kind of a draw? IDK. But whatever - it works out fine, those Icons are crazy nice.

So now I need to run the wires.

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I used solid electrical wire to get to the holes I drilled on the front tube. This will run along the nav light wiring. Once I reached the first hole I had made I ran another piece from the left hole and then connected them so I could pull it the rest of the way. Then simply attached the speaker wire to the red wire. Make sure you make a loop/hook in the feeder wire and tape the crap out of the wires as there is a good amount of tension/resistance when pulling them through. Have someone help you feed the wires as they tend to get caught on the edge where you feed them in. Not a ton of space there. Took me about 20 minutes. Not too bad.

 

[swatski]

I used solid electrical wire to get to the holes I drilled on the front tube. This will run along the nav light wiring. Once I reached the first hole I had made I ran another piece from the left hole and then connected them so I could pull it the rest of the way. Then simply attached the speaker wire to the red wire. Make sure you make a loop/hook in the feeder wire and tape the crap out of the wires as there is a good amount of tension/resistance when pulling them through. Have someone help you feed the wires as they tend to get caught on the edge where you feed them in. Not a ton of space there. Took me about 20 minutes. Not too bad.


View attachment 57767View attachment 57768

That is very helpful - thank you!

I think I may end up slapping my speakers on the front leg after all, I have a set of ICON8s that use the TC3-F clamp which is kind of massive and may be a better fit there.

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