Bizzarre starting issue - need some advise

[Beachbummer]

Plug hatch safety switches prevent the engine from turning over so they're ruled out.

Like @TimW451 says...It does not work like you think... It has 2 circuits in there, one that fakes the boat is NOT in neutral - so it won't crank, and the other that fakes the key is in OFF position, so it will shut off if running.

Since it never shuts off on its own I suspect it's not the switch, but this info is important to know when troubleshooting, so I'm taking license to state it again. If I was you, I would bypass them to confirm it's not the switch, just in case.

Best of Luck!

 

[anmut]

I had this issue with the starboard engine from the first day I brought her home, and the fix was simple - adjust the kill switch under the cleanout tray hatch.

@Bluejuice I tested it first by using some masking tape on the underside of the hatch to hold a dime above the switch so it would contact sooner - it fired up 100% of the time, so I used a wrench and raised the switch a couple turns. Never had a problem since.

I have this issue on my 212 after a hard run - I always thought it was heat soak on the stbd engine because, if I let it run and cool itself for a minute, there's no issue.

 

[Scottintexas]

last year I had an intermittent no crank or crank/no start issue,
old battery, new battery, two batteries, no rhyme or reason, for sure it was a safety switch

turns out my battery cable terminal had a small film of corrosion on it, barely visible, I put a new terminal on it and haven't had a problem since,

check everything involved,

 

[212s]

Plug hatch safety switches prevent the engine from turning over so they're ruled out.

I wouldn't rule them out. That's not how mine was malfunctioning. I could crank the engine, but it would not start, and it was intermittent likely from walking on the hatch while floating. I caught a whiff of gas from the exhaust when cranking which indicated no combustion yet it cranked over, so I figured it was electrical. I read about the safety switches and once I taped a dime under the hatch to push the switch down further, my engines fired up 100% of the time. I believe the switches are wired for two safety features, no crank, and no spark. If not fully depressed, the switch cuts the spark. I adjusted the height of the switch which cured the problem. That was 3 seasons ago and no issues since.

 

[Bluejuice]

Sorry for the massive delay. I was able to resolve the issue. It was the safety lanyard switch. It tested good on the bench with a meter. It actually turned out that over the years i collected half a dozen or so safety lanyards. Turns out the random lanyard i was using had a clip thats was ever so slimmer than others, causing a week connection. I did find a small crack in the plastic of the switch so i replaced the whole thing, but simply using a thicker clip resoved the issue. Go figure.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Sorry for the massive delay. I was able to resolve the issue. It was the safety lanyard switch. It tested good on the bench with a meter. It actually turned out that over the years i collected half a dozen or so safety lanyards. Turns out the random lanyard i was using had a clip thats was ever so slimmer than others, causing a week connection. I did find a small crack in the plastic of the switch so i replaced the whole thing, but simply using a thicker clip resoved the issue. Go figure.

Thanks for closing the loop! Glad you finally got it sorted out!