Check Engine Light. Revs limited to 2k - 2017 AR190 - stuck on the water.

[2kwik4u]

@HELP

On the water currently. Drove fine off the trailer. Went about 10-15mi, then stopped at the dam. Anchored out for about 2-3 hrs. Started back up and I have a check engine warning and can't get more than 2k rpm. Idles fine and smooth. Drove a bit to get away from other boats. Turned batter switch off, then back on. Seems to be OK now. Got us 1/2 way back to dock and we've stopped with our neighbors to hang.out some more. I'll check back before we leave here. Worst case they'll tow us back to the ramp, or we'll just putt back at 2k rpm.

No codes in the diagnostic mode of the speedo. Not sure what else to check on?!?

Thanks in advance!

 

[drewkaree]

Spark plugs & wires look good? Pissers pissing strong? Maybe something on the pickup limiting or slowing flow, but not enough to throw an overheat warning?

That's all I have that comes to mind, but they're easy to check.

Watching

 

[2kwik4u]

Off the water now. More details when I get home

 

[2kwik4u]

Some more details.

I thought it was voltage, but Im getting around 14.2 all the time.

The 2k rpm limit was clearly the PCM limiting throttle opening. It was smooth as butter. Once I stopped and turned battery off and back on, it ran great. Got 7650rpm and 41mph on a lightly loaded day.

Strong flow from the witness outlet, so it's getting good flow, even at idle. Engine didn't look awry visually. No obvious oil or water leaks. Oil level is good. Needs to be changed, but otherwise OK.

It "feels" like a sensor or PCM issue. It's VERY intermittent, and when it's not present, it runs perfect. Feels kid of like a bad ground or loose connector somewhere.

Anyone know how to get my hands on YDS and scan for errors? Have laptop and checkbook standing by.

 

[2kwik4u]

Is this the YDS I need?!?

USB Diagnostic Cable Tool Scanner KIT Compatible with Yamaha YDS 1.33 and Suzuki SDS 8.40 Jet Boat/WaveRunner/Outboard, Ytpoools Amazon.com

 

[SantaFeTrailer]

I don't think that will work for your boat. You likely need a Candoo Pro.

Is this the YDS I need?!?

USB Diagnostic Cable Tool Scanner KIT Compatible with Yamaha YDS 1.33 and Suzuki SDS 8.40 Jet Boat/WaveRunner/Outboard, Ytpoools Amazon.com

 

[2kwik4u]

Well, another 4-ish hours in the engine today. Over 8hrs on the water. Tubing, skating, cruising, docking; all without a single issue. Boat ran great all day.

 

[stop23]

When I pulled my boat out of storage this year, I found out the CEL will come on when there is an electrical grounding problem. I missed one of the negative battery cable terminals when connecting the house battery. I figured it out quickly when the Connext didn't power on, but the starters turned over. After correcting the connections, the CEL activated on both engines. I couldn't diagnose or clear it without a YDS 2.0, but I found a hint here to start and stop the engine 3 times in a row. It cleared the fault, and it hasn't come back.

Your circumstance is obviously different, but maybe check your battery and ground cables and look for oxidation or corrosion that might cause impedance to ground. Maybe a chassis ground has gotten loose.

 

[2kwik4u]

When I pulled my boat out of storage this year, I found out the CEL will come on when there is an electrical grounding problem. I missed one of the negative battery cable terminals when connecting the house battery. I figured it out quickly when the Connext didn't power on, but the starters turned over. After correcting the connections, the CEL activated on both engines. I couldn't diagnose or clear it without a YDS 2.0, but I found a hint here to start and stop the engine 3 times in a row. It cleared the fault, and it hasn't come back.

Your circumstance is obviously different, but maybe check your battery and ground cables and look for oxidation or corrosion that might cause impedance to ground. Maybe a chassis ground has gotten loose.

This would track pretty well with some other symptoms I've had lately.

I'm getting some absurd feedback through the sound bar. Bilge pump and blower in particular generate some bad noise, and sometimes the engine itself will generate that same noise.

I'm considering putting a set of bus bars near the battery and running everything there, as well as new power and ground circuits up to the stereo. I think the interference is coming through the 3.5mm audio as a bad ground loop.

 

[2kwik4u]

Well, Boat pulled these shenanigans again on the water yesterday. This time while in FL on vacation. I couldn't get it resolved on the water, and the beep was so loud and annoying I snipped the wires and made it back to the ramp with the light flashing at me. Cycled the power 3 times, no help. I'll swing by Autozone and get a cheap switch to put on the alarm so I don't have it completely disabled.

With that said, as I was flushing on the trailer, it was gone. No CEL, no alarm, nothing. Ran perfectly.

SO @HELP Can someone tell me if there is a different alarm for an engine overheat, or critical engine issue that is different than a "regular" check engine light? I drove back to the ramp and noticed no ill effects with the CEL on, however if it was an overheat issue or something critical I wouldn't have done it. Much like the CEL on a car, if it's on it's OK to proceed to a mechanic, if it's flashing it's a critical fault and you should stop. Yamaha have anything like that? I don't see anything in the manual.

*edit*
Found this in the manual. Looks like maybe an overheat or a low oil pressure fault. Either way, not sure how to help cure this on the water next time.

 

[Scottintexas]

I didn't get an alert to the @HELP signal so it's possible others may not either,

what was the scenario today when the light came on?
had it ran fine and you were anchored at the sand bar and the light came on coming home?
were you cruising and it started flashing ?
were you tubing ?
you're oil level good ?

since ran fine on the hose I wonder if maybe you picked up some trash that caused an overheat or maybe you just have a bad sensor

 

[jimbobalu]

This happened to me after I was anchored for a while, turned out to be weeds in the intake grate, once cleared Engine waring went away and hasn't returned.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

@Julian had posted the alarm clear scenario a while back and if’m not mistaken this is the procedure.

batteries off
batteries on
start engines
engines off
batteries off

Repeat four more times

it is possible there is a loose / intermittent ground somewhere that could be causing this as well. Good luck!

 

[WREKS]

On my 2007 MR-1s, center warning light comes on when engine(s) overheat and goes off when they return to normal. It just amounts to a switch closing and opening. There is no flashing, however, engine rpms are restricted until normal temperature returns.

 

[2kwik4u]

I didn't get an alert to the @HELP signal so it's possible others may not either,

what was the scenario today when the light came on?
had it ran fine and you were anchored at the sand bar and the light came on coming home?
were you cruising and it started flashing ?
were you tubing ?
you're oil level good ?

since ran fine on the hose I wonder if maybe you picked up some trash that caused an overheat or maybe you just have a bad sensor

Today's was different. We had been to Crab Island and anchored. Then went to another area and hung out for a few hours. We had gone out into the gulf a bit, turned around and came back and beached for another hour. Went to restart to head home, and initial start didn't take. Cranked and fired them immediately died (I think I let.off the starter too soon). Restarted immediately and it was running fine, but had an alarm and reduced revs. Did the battery and engine on/off dance a few times and after the first round had full revs and everything seemed fine, aside from the alarm.

Oil level appears fine. Had good flow from witness line and water was warm but not scalding. Had good flow from thermostat outlet under rear of boat as well. I've run it MUCH harder in the past in water just as warm and never had an overheating issue. It's more likely to vapor lock on me than to overheat. I run in 99% fresh water with less than 10 of my 250-ish hours being fresh. When in salt I flush immediately after each dip, so I wouldn't expect a cooling system clog. Wasn't much grass or debris in water down here either. I am having a bit of cavitation, so likely need to seal the tunnel again and I suppose that could lead to a lower cooling system pressure.

First time it happened I attributed it to battery voltage. Charged battery and all was good for a few weeks. I had battery on charge until Saturday, then travelled down, and ran on Wednesday. It's back on charge now while sitting at Adventure Marina here in Ft Walton. It's the original battery from 2017, so I wouldn't be surprised if it's on its way out. After this trip it's likely done for the year, so I'll replace in the spring (assuming we keep the boat).

I will say that I HATE the dipstick on this engine. The blued steel color and the fresh honey colored oil make it really difficult for a color blind person like me to read the level. I think there's enough in there, but I'm basing that on the sheen or reflectivity of the dipstick not the color. I changed the oil before I came down and only pulled a shade over 2qts out. I put 3 back in, and it appears to be full, but I'm not great at that piece of maintenance.

Currently raining here, so I'm not sure if we'll go out today. Considering meeting @Babin Farms over near Robinson Island on Saturday. Will report back on if it happens again.

 

[JBehrens]

Today's was different. We had been to Crab Island and anchored. Then went to another area and hung out for a few hours. We had gone out into the gulf a bit, turned around and came back and beached for another hour. Went to restart to head home, and initial start didn't take. Cranked and fired them immediately died (I think I let.off the starter too soon). Restarted immediately and it was running fine, but had an alarm and reduced revs. Did the battery and engine on/off dance a few times and after the first round had full revs and everything seemed fine, aside from the alarm.

Oil level appears fine. Had good flow from witness line and water was warm but not scalding. Had good flow from thermostat outlet under rear of boat as well. I've run it MUCH harder in the past in water just as warm and never had an overheating issue. It's more likely to vapor lock on me than to overheat. I run in 99% fresh water with less than 10 of my 250-ish hours being fresh. When in salt I flush immediately after each dip, so I wouldn't expect a cooling system clog. Wasn't much grass or debris in water down here either. I am having a bit of cavitation, so likely need to seal the tunnel again and I suppose that could lead to a lower cooling system pressure.

First time it happened I attributed it to battery voltage. Charged battery and all was good for a few weeks. I had battery on charge until Saturday, then travelled down, and ran on Wednesday. It's back on charge now while sitting at Adventure Marina here in Ft Walton. It's the original battery from 2017, so I wouldn't be surprised if it's on its way out. After this trip it's likely done for the year, so I'll replace in the spring (assuming we keep the boat).

I will say that I HATE the dipstick on this engine. The blued steel color and the fresh honey colored oil make it really difficult for a color blind person like me to read the level. I think there's enough in there, but I'm basing that on the sheen or reflectivity of the dipstick not the color. I changed the oil before I came down and only pulled a shade over 2qts out. I put 3 back in, and it appears to be full, but I'm not great at that piece of maintenance.

Currently raining here, so I'm not sure if we'll go out today. Considering meeting @Babin Farms over near Robinson Island on Saturday. Will report back on if it happens again.

I have had something similar happen to me. After running the boat fine for a little bit, stopping and then trying to restart the boat had trouble starting and struggled to maintain idle, kicking the code but was just fine after a battery on/off. Sometimes the start wouldn't take but after a battery cycle it would fire up. I have no idea why, it's usually random. I have had two mechanics say it's possibly vapor lock given how hot it gets where I boat.

 

[2kwik4u]

I have had something similar happen to me. After running the boat fine for a little bit, stopping and then trying to restart the boat had trouble starting and struggled to maintain idle, kicking the code but was just fine after a battery on/off. Sometimes the start wouldn't take but after a battery cycle it would fire up. I have no idea why, it's usually random. I have had two mechanics say it's possibly vapor lock given how hot it gets where I boat.

I can agree with that. @swatski found a similar problem as well on his dual engine, when loaded up for surfing and turning it off while hot. I've experienced that same problem before as well, but usually only after tubing for a long time, then immediately shutting the engine off. These episodes don't feel like vapor lock, and when I did have vapor lock it didn't throw a check engine light or alarm. Although the no-start or slow start, then try again was similar.

I'll be installing a switch on the alarm feed wire. This way I can leave the alarm "armed" all the time, and if I run into a similar issue again in the future I can switch the alarm sound off and continue along. Might not be the best solution, but it'll work for as infrequent as it happens, and still provide sanity over the situation.

 

[Scottintexas]

did you ever get an engine reader ? I can't believe if it went into limp mode it didn't store a code

 

[2kwik4u]

did you ever get an engine reader ? I can't believe if it went into limp mode it didn't store a code

I have not. It's on my winter upgrade list. Best I can tell CanDoo Pro is the only tool us civilians have access to that can read the newer boats.

Was 38deg this morning at the house. Probably take it out once more this year just to rinse the salt away. Goes in storage first Saturday in November.

 

[drewkaree]

I have not. It's on my winter upgrade list. Best I can tell CanDoo Pro is the only tool us civilians have access to that can read the newer boats.

This.

In looking, the $400+ reader is all that's available, it seems, which is steep for my diagnostic needs. I'm not having issues though, so it's a bit tougher pill to swallow. If I were having issues, that cost might be a steal, compared to the dealership service cost, and me being leery to use them