Engine Hatch Sealing

[blacksapphirez]

On my boat, it came with about 20% of the rubber seal on the bottom portion and that was it. So I have decided to get a seal that closely matched the factory seal and it was spot on. I bought two of these seals and I had more than enough to do the fuel hatch and the ski locker. Initially I put it on top of the existing seal but that proved to be bit much so I ripped out the original seal and laid the new one down. Old seal on the fuel hatch was loose and was letting water down the fuel compartment then into the bilge. Not a big deal but I just wanted to take care of it.

I suspect this will help a little with the noise reduction on top of the rubber insulation I have over the engine, which is not shown.

The Seal. - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NL49QCA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Before

After

Comparison with original rubber seal and the one I purchased.
LEFT-I bought
RIGHT-Original

 

[Julian]

Cool...did it help reduce the noise at all?

 

[blacksapphirez]

haha I just did it at 5pm this evening. I will test it out next outing

 

[KXCam22]

Nice. Amazon.ca does an excellent conversion to Canadian dollars. Cam,

 

[blacksapphirez]

uhhh haha its $17.50 prime shipping included for US!

 

[RightStuff]

Doing this made a (small) difference in noise reduction on my AR210, good and cheap mod. I bought my seal from McMaster-Carr: https://www.mcmaster.com/#93085k82/=16h8ygk

 

[swatski]

FWIW:
https://jetboaters.net/threads/another-soundproofing-thread-the-raamat-experience.11872/#post-204167

"I may have finally found the right type of seal to go around the engine hatch!

I my old 190 I have tried 4 or 5 different types of weather stripping foam/rubber and settled on some "neoprene" pipe insulation split-tubes, but I was never too happy as those would rip easily and did not fit or look great. Part of the difficulty is also finding a seal w/the right thickness, as too much material will pressure the hinges and the hatch won't close (as I know all too well from past experience, LOL).

This particular seal is designed for garage doors... which sounds weird. But it is actually almost perfect, I think. Made out of some heavy duty neoprene, it is strong and does not rip easily, but is soft enough and very rubbery/springy. Not a peel-n-stick but I use some CRC spray adhesive that works well on those things.
(In my experience the key is to let the adhesive air dry for 5-10min after spraying the pieces, before placing/positioning them together)."

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[RightStuff]

@swatski I like that better how it wraps around a bit more than the bulb seal I linked to. I found a few places with the seal I found the hatch pushes the seal to the side more than compresses it down. Do you get any of that with the garage door seal?

 

[Bill D]

@swatski is right on. I used the same product as @RightStuff linked from McMaster. It is almost too big around the top, and does make the hatch sit slightly higher than it used to. I had to tighten down the hinges a bit. I like the garage door stuff, especially for the top. Did you just scoop it up at Lowe's or something?

On a side note, it is amazing how much more egg-crate there is glued in the new boats.

 

[spaz1868]

Following this thread to see how the garage door gasket works out. I have to replace the bulb style gasket that I purchased from McMaster-Carr and installed at the beginning of last season. Over time, the gasket has been pushed off to the side especially on the top part of the engine compartment. Now there is a lot of black adhesive that I have to cleanup and replace before the beginning of this season.

 

[blacksapphirez]

On a side note, it is amazing how much more egg-crate there is glued in the new boats.

Quiet Cruise=One extra layer of the egg crate insulation lol

 

[swatski]

Quiet Cruise=One extra layer of the egg crate insulation lol

Pretty much, LOL.
But in all seriousness the biggest deal IMO is 1. the new drive shaft couplers, and 2. splitting up the huge stern compartment with little wet storage spaces. Still WAY to go though.

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[swatski]

@swatski I like that better how it wraps around a bit more than the bulb seal I linked to. I found a few places with the seal I found the hatch pushes the seal to the side more than compresses it down. Do you get any of that with the garage door seal?

It does not do it, and it has set for a few weeks all enclosed showing little fatigue. The 3M guys will kill me, but I really think the CRC spray glue is amazing. Just apply it to both surfaces and let it air dry slightly before assembling.

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[swatski]

@swatski is right on. I used the same product as @RightStuff linked from McMaster. It is almost too big around the top, and does make the hatch sit slightly higher than it used to. I had to tighten down the hinges a bit. I like the garage door stuff, especially for the top. Did you just scoop it up at Lowe's or something?

On a side note, it is amazing how much more egg-crate there is glued in the new boats.

I think it might have been Walmart. It was not a planned purchase, I think I was looking for the elusive $14 discounted Li jumpstarter and that thing caught my eye. It does fit the best of any I've tried without raising the hatch and popping hinges.

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[RightStuff]

This looks to be it: https://www.amazon.com/Duck-281232-Heavy-Duty-Rubber-Garage/dp/B0020J18OG

 

[Pro Build]

Any chance that sealing the engine compartment so tight for sound reduction, that it will restrict air flow to a point of causing the engines to starve for air at extended full throttle runs?

 

[Seadeals]

The engines don’t use gaps in the hatch to breathe. There are dedicated intake vents (two holes) drilled in the back wall of the engine bay sufficient to handle the induction requirements. I wouldn’t cover them up.

 

[swatski]

Any chance that sealing the engine compartment so tight for sound reduction, that it will restrict air flow to a point of causing the engines to starve for air at extended full throttle runs?

No issue with that, in your boat the fresh air intakes are in the rear of the engine bay - see some pics in this post:

I was changing the air filters today and finally decided to take a good look at the air intakes - which happen to be under the stern storage, on both sides (sort of):

Interesting, in the new 240/242 the STRBD side vent is only the Blower/Exhaust, PORT is the fresh/cold air intake.
View attachment 67935

Here is a close-up (outside) of the fresh/cold air intake - PORT side:
View attachment 67936View attachment 67937

And a close-up of the Blower/Exhaust outlet - STBRD side:
View attachment 67938View attachment 67939


The fresh/cold air vent opens up inside the engine compartment - on top/PORT side:
(I peeled the foam for better view, the silver is RAAMmat insulation in my boat)
View attachment 67940View attachment 67941

Now the Blower/Exaust vent DOES NOT open inside the engine compartment - it is completely enclosed with a mount for the blowers/hoses - top/STRBD side:
View attachment 67945View attachment 67946

So - basically - the only air intake from the outside is under the PORT side stern storage!
(Both blowers suck the air out of the engine compartment and exhaust under the STRBD stern storage)

When we wake surf, we will typically run with extra ballast on the swim deck/platform (in addition to the built-in 3 x 800lbs in center and rear lockers). For surfing regular side - that extra ballast would sits on the PORT side of the deck. Usually 1 or 2 bags 550lbs each, staggered.
View attachment 67948
View attachment 67947View attachment 67949
View attachment 67950View attachment 67951

Are the bags obstructing the air intake?! At any rate - they are are not helping!
We have a semi-decent wake, but if I'm starving the engines of air, this can not be good.

I thought I would share. There has been some talk of making form-fitting bags for the swim deck, I think @0627Devildog has been working on some. Well, air intakes may need to be a consideration. It just never crossed my mind, until today.

@gmtech16450yz - any ideas on CAI mods?
View attachment 67958

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[swatski]

A quick update on engine hatch seal:

Mine held up well, but it was time to replace it. I used the same seal, from walmart, but different glue this time - "Shoe-goo"
I think this glue is perfect for this application.
As always, prep work took the longest...


Bead of glue - I made one tube work for the whole job but next time will have two tubes on hand:


All cured and holding nicely: