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Front hatch not draining on 210 FSH

I do not have this boat, so I am asking how water is getting in under the hatch and down into the locker? I totally understand the trailer part. Where does the deck water pool and leak in around the locker curbing/seal? Assuming that the source of water is not from wet gear. Curious.

The issue is that the drain channel area doesn’t drain properly, mainly because there isnt enough drop between the drain and where it ties into the main deck drain in the engine bay. Where water can get into the 5 gallon bucket locker is when drain channel is full (due to the drain not draining) and you open the locker hatch and some of that water spills into the locker.
 
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The front hatch in front of the center console. Like all the others in here it will drain but only if I lift the front of the trailer WAY UP. I am playing with the drainlines but that still doesn't help much. My main deck drain behind the center console drains super slowly too but I think I can sort of help that one drain.

What I did to help the main deck drain better was to support this drain line with a couple of large ty wrap / zip ties by running them through the two engine lifting eyes, this takes the belly of that drain line out.
 
Cool, thanks for posting the parts used that helps a lot. One of the things that bug me the most on our boats is the drainage. I hate looking in my engine bay and having an ugly ass hose sagging between the motors as well.

See my post above about supporting the drain line
 
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This has helped mine drain better. I switched out the drain for this concave head 90deg drain.


It has a shallower drop and a much cleaner entry allowing water to flow more easily into the drain and the hose now sits a little higher too. I used a small drum sander to open up the hole.

It looks much better also. Definitely worth the $14 after shipping and 20mins to change out.
 

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This has helped mine drain better. I switched out the drain for this concave head 90deg drain.


It has a shallower drop and a much cleaner entry allowing water to flow more easily into the drain and the hose now sits a little higher too. I used a small drum sander to open up the hole.

It looks much better also. Definitely worth the $14 after shipping and 20mins to change out.

Thanks for the link to the part!
 
I think the best solution would be to put a small shower sump under the hatch on the battery tray, let the water drain into it then integrated pump will just pump it down the hose.

The only other thing I thought of was to drill an over size hole in the liner so you could put a thru hull right there next to where the drain is. I’d want to run a camera up in there first though. Then would take care of it properly.

I still think these two options are the best way to get that drain to work, with the passive drain being the most desirable. I’m going to have to look at this more seriously this winter. And when I do this I’m going to get rid of that spiral ribbed drain hose the oem deck drain uses for some smooth sided drain line ( I’ve found the spiral ribbed drain is hard to keep from leaking) then there will be two connection points for the oem deck drain.

I really like my boat but there are a few things that make me wonder what the thought process was when the designs were done and this 5 gallon bucket locker hatch drain is one of them. The singular 1.5” deck drain in the center of the aft cockpit is the other, on the 19’ FSH boats and now the larger FSH models there are two 1.5” deck drains, one in each aft corner, and these drain above the water line, I added a drain in each corner and this has helped a lot but the deck isn’t sloped to the outsides, the 210’s drain being in the center and the scupper being at or under the water line, along with the long run of drain line between the engines doesn’t promote thorough draining. Oh well, perfection is a direction, not a destination, it’s still an awesome boat.
 
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