going to try spring maintenance for first time.

[tabbibus]

Hi folks. I usually leave the yearly maintenance to the marina. But this year I want to save some bucks and try it. I plan to buy the oil change kits from @JetBoatPilot and a pump thingy. What else do I need to look into? Spark plugs? Do I have to change them?

Thanks folks

 

[Dave burke]

I just change the oil and filter. And the plug every 3 years. But I only do about 50 hrs a year. Others change them more often.

 

[tdonoughue]

I recommend oil, filter and plugs. Oil and filter is obvious why (over time even, oil will accumulate goo (well, acids actually) and should be changed--always change filter with oil). Plugs I do annually and occasionally every other year. Rationale: 1) Most running issues with these boats are attributable to old plugs; changing them annually keeps your boat running nicely, and 2) Occasionally someone who has not regularly changed plugs will report that a plug is stuck (corroded in). Regular plug changes are cheap insurance on both of those fronts.

On the plugs, be sure you do not overtighten them when you put the new ones in. Screw them in until they make contact and make them hand snug (like 1/8 turn or less).

That's it. It is so easy to service these boats, you will leave your boat wondering why you paid so much to have anyone do this for you...

 

[Crob83]

Go for it, I am the most unhandy dude I know...lol. It was super simple and easy (a little nerve-wracking) the first time but very easy.

 

[212s]

Hi folks. I usually leave the yearly maintenance to the marina. But this year I want to save some bucks and try it.

If you get a powered pump, it's very easy. I keep used containers to pump the old oil into and the pump makes it easy. The only hard part is finding the deep pocket in the oil dipstick tube - you need to poke and rotate the hose to get it do go all the way down to get it all out. On the 1.8L engines you should get about 3.8L out, so if you can only get about 3 or so, you need to wiggle the hose in deeper. Change the filter at the same time.

Spark plugs? Do I have to change them?

Yes the plugs are not long-life like the iridiums in our vehicles so they will wear in 100 hours. These engines rev high like motorcycles, so they wear the plugs quickly.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Be sure and check the gap on the plugs before you install them.

Put a thin layer of anti seize on the new plug threads when you install them.. THIN is operative word. Put a little on the threads and spread it out on the threads with your finger. If you do not have one, buy a torque wrench to tighten the plugs with per the manuals’ spec.

If you get a vacuum pump that is graduated you will be able to see how much oil is coming out of your engine. Be sure and warm the engine up thoroughly before you change the oil, this serves two purposes, 1-the oil is thinner and moves more easily and will more readily flow to the low point and 2-the oil moving around in the engine when it is warm will suspend stuff in the oil so you get more junk out of the pan.

 

[Canuckjetboater]

Hi folks. I usually leave the yearly maintenance to the marina. But this year I want to save some bucks and try it. I plan to buy the oil change kits from @JetBoatPilot and a pump thingy. What else do I need to look into? Spark plugs? Do I have to change them?

Thanks folks

@tabbibus ..... I have always changed my spark plugs every year. Cheap way to maintain performance and fuel efficiency. Many on this forum have stated that Yamaha engines are very hard on plugs so (IMO) another reason to change them. But (IMO) the most important reason to at least remove them and then re-install them is to prevent them from becoming bound to the head then all hell breaks loose - literally. So back to my original question - why not change them yearly? I would also purchase some Yamalube and marine grease or similar products to spray underwater metals and lubricate joints. As well don't forget to grease your bearing case. All the info is in your manual and -Yes - you can do it yourself.

 

[tabbibus]

@tabbibus ..... I have always changed my spark plugs every year. Cheap way to maintain performance and fuel efficiency. Many on this forum have stated that Yamaha engines are very hard on plugs so (IMO) another reason to change them. But (IMO) the most important reason to at least remove them and then re-install them is to prevent them from becoming bound to the head then all hell breaks loose - literally. So back to my original question - why not change them yearly? I would also purchase some Yamalube and marine grease or similar products to spray underwater metals and lubricate joints. As well don't forget to grease your bearing case. All the info is in your manual and -Yes - you can do it yourself.

service manual or normal manual?

 

[haknslash]

Super simple in these engines. I would change the plugs yearly on these engines.

 

[tabbibus]

and I know folks have said it before, but what's the go to pump for yall?

 

[ShesCrafty]

Routine maintenance only at the end of the season for me - never in the spring. Oil/filter, grease, fuel additive. Run less than 50 hours in a season. Lots of floating.

 

[tabbibus]

Routine maintenance only at the end of the season for me - never in the spring. Oil/filter, grease, fuel additive. Run less than 50 hours in a season. Lots of floating.

Why at end of season? Does it matter?

 

[ShesCrafty]

Why at end of season? Does it matter?

I used to have the oil changed every spring... but my dealer kept telling me to do it at season end. I don’t see much of a difference... except that the dealer makes a few extra bucks on ‘winterization’.

 

[drewkaree]

service manual or normal manual?

Your "normal" manual should have everything you need to do listed in there. If not, investigate it around here to either find the service manual or the info you need.

As for the work you're going to need to do for an oil change: This is what I did, and it's not difficult for you at all to do.

and I know folks have said it before, but what's the go to pump for yall?

I saw all the other types, and for ME, I'm not a fan of the "typical" one you see used - the ball or the tall cylinder looking one. Both seem like my knack for tipping/knocking things over would be a bad thing. If you looked up the linked thread I posted a few sentences above, I went with this Topsider. I prefer the metal construction, and the wide base. For my boat, I can put it on the floor when in use, or on top of the other engine. Powered extraction is nice too. I didn't want to deal with the wires, and there's nothing extra that might break down with the pump extractors, so that's the reason I chose mine.

Some other tools I prefer to use:

TEKTON 5866 12-Inch Oil Filter Pliers (these will fit ANY filter, so you'll be able to use these for the car, motorcycle, etc)

If you plan on changing the plugs (I would, if it's been more than a year, simply for cheap insurance and peace of mind), here's a few things I'd suggest:

GEARWRENCH 3 Pc. 3/8" Drive 6 Pt. Spark Plug Mechanics Tool Set - 81229 - This was NOT priced so high at the time of my purchase. Here's a few cheaper alternatives
GEARWRENCH 3/8" Drive 6 Pt. 5/8" x 6" Magnetic Swivel Spark Plug Socket - 80546 - Get the appropriate size for yours, it may be different.
OEM TOOLS 22887 5/8 Inch Magnetic Spark Plug Socket, 3/8 Inch Drive - REALLY recommend magnetic over the rubber ringed spark plug sockets
TEKTON 3/8 Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench (10-80 ft.-lb.) | 24330 - Torque wrench to torque them in properly. Using anti-seize is its own debate. Using it skews torque readings. Tightening your spark plugs into the head too deeply can cause problems that you will be able to find in other threads around here, requiring some major engine work. You do what you want to do, others will do what they want to do, I will simply continue to torque my spark plugs to the proper values indicated in my manual. Some reading between the lines will get you my view. I'm still under warranty, and I think you are too. I do not want Yamaha to refuse a warranty claim because I have done work contrary to the service specifications that may result in engine damage. This is the extent to which I will add to any spark plug "controversy".

I don't know how your engine configuration is compared to mine, but in my thread, I noted that I got a right-angle funnel to more easily reach the fill hole due to the hatch being in the way. I also got a container to more easily pour oil into the funnel. I've done mine on the water, and I buy my oil by the gallon, rather than by the quart. If you're doing this on the trailer or a lift, or if you're just more confident in your ability to not spill oil all over from the original container, neither of these are necessary. They simply make it easier and it's money spent for a nicer experience for me.

Lisle 17232 Right Angle Funnel

WirthCo 94367 Measuring Container, 5 Liter

 

[Canuckjetboater]

service manual or normal manual?

@tabbibus .... IMO you would be fine with your owner's manual as it will have fluid capacities, spark plug numbers (if you replace), amount of gear case lube to put into the gear case tube based on hours of use and instructions how to do it (also lots about that on this forum). The oil change kit is a normal Yamaha oil and filter change kit for Jet Boats regular 1.8 (non-supercharged) engines - of course you'll need two of everything. I always carry an extra quart/liter of oil in my on-board tool bin as I check my oil level a lot and top-up if necessary (so far I have not had to top-up). Yamaha does say to level the engine with a level before checking the oil level (yeah I know!) but I don't obsess to that point. I leave a little extra room on the dipstick(s) and check my oil level(s) when the boat is in the water at its normal attitude and I am sure you know it is better to be a bit low rather than too high regarding the oil level non your dip stick(s). Don't hesitate to ask your forum buddies if you have any more questions - we ALL do!

 

[drewkaree]

I leave a little extra room on the dipstick(s) and check my oil level(s) when the boat is in the water at its normal attitude and I am sure you know it is better to be a bit low rather than too high regarding the oil level non your dip stick(s).

I was seriously shocked at just how true this was. I had read it several times around the forum prior to doing my first oil change, and there was a clear and noticeable difference. From the dealer, it was overfilled. After doing the oil change, and leaving it "low", it was easy to tell things were where they should be.

 

[Canuckjetboater]

I used to have the oil changed every spring... but my dealer kept telling me to do it at season end. I don’t see much of a difference... except that the dealer makes a few extra bucks on ‘winterization’.

@ShesCrafty ..... I have never left oil in any engine over a Winter lay-up. Used oil contains acids, suspended contaminants, particulates of metals and some water vapor. I do not want that left in my engine over an extended lay-up. Heat the engine(s), using gloves remove the hot oil filter(s), drain the hot oil and replace with fresh oil and filter(s). Change plugs, grease gear case, lubricate linkages and (optional) if you want fog the engine and run coolant through It. This ensures all vital parts are protected.

 

[Canuckjetboater]

I was seriously shocked at just how true this was. I had read it several times around the forum prior to doing my first oil change, and there was a clear and noticeable difference. From the dealer, it was overfilled. After doing the oil change, and leaving it "low", it was easy to tell things were where they should be.

@drewkaree ..... Amen to that - a friend damaged one of his 150K racing engines when someone overfilled it by a quart. Engines do not like to have oil levels that are too high better to be a bit low and top-up if necessary.

 

[drewkaree]

I have no idea what spark plugs you require, but for anyone whose boat calls for NGK CR9EB plugs, the cheapest place ANYWHERE that I found them ($3.99/each) was O'Reilly

NGK Copper Core Plug Number CR9EB, C9B Spark Plug

NGK's website shows them on backorder, but if a store has them in stock, Bob's yer uncle. O'Reilly might be a touch short at this moment, some jackass just bought 12 so he could get free shipping and cover his upcoming spark plug changes. Got a feeling the prices on things might start creeping up in the next year or two.

I've found the oil filters are going to run you about $10-15/ea online, no idea how much they'd charge you walking into your local boat store. Any place selling them for $10/ea is usually charging $5-9 for shipping, so Amazon's 2-pack for $25 and change is decent and an easy throw-in if you're already ordering something else. If you're the type who doesn't like to be tied to a specific filter and might want to change/risk a non-manufacturer filter, there's this site:

Oil filter cross reference

Convert one oil filter brand to another. Huge database covering >2000 different brands and hundreds of thousands of oil filters.

www.oilfilter-crossreference.com

Cannot find an exact cross reference for mine, but I have no problems walking into a place with my filter and asking and/or matching it up. I'm partial to K&N filters, but there's no exact cross match to my particular filter number. Seems there's some sketchy makeup of Yamaha filters of this type as well, but as long as it's spec'd by Yamaha, that's on them if there's some warranty issue related to the filters. I'll keep using the Yamaha filters (as best as I can as long as they don't drop this specific one, unlikely as that may be). When my boat is no longer under warranty, I won't concern myself so much with it, and I'll likely switch to something else that I will have found by that time.

 

[2kwik4u]

Hi folks. I usually leave the yearly maintenance to the marina. But this year I want to save some bucks and try it. I plan to buy the oil change kits from @JetBoatPilot and a pump thingy. What else do I need to look into? Spark plugs? Do I have to change them?

Thanks folks

Go buy some diapers.

I'm dead serious.

Use the diaper as a "glove" of sorts when you spin off the filter. It'll catch most of the oil from dripping into the bilge, and they hold way more liquid than physics should allow.

Also, keep a small trash can with a disposable liner, and paper towels handy. It'll help with any mess you do make and prevent it from being a stain later.

Oh, another thing. Knee pad of some sort. While you're in the kids section getting diapers, get a knee pad thing for adults to kneel beside the bathtub. Saves your knees from either the carpet, or the non-skid while you're down around the bilge area. Totally worth the $6 at WalMart!