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How long should the house battery last? and other 242xe battery Qs

meegwell

Jetboaters Lieutenant
Messages
205
Reaction score
170
Points
162
Location
Central Virginia
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2018
Boat Model
242X E-Series
Boat Length
24
Generally speaking here recognizing it is battery-specific so let’s assume stock dual battery setup for 2018 242Xe. If I fully charge/condition both batteries with a marinerpro then run the stereo and connext screen...in float mode no engines...are we talking couple hours, half day, all day as far as expectations go as to how long before low house battery?

my batteries have stickers on them of 9/17 and 2/18. Is this the production date for each?

Finally - replacement recommendations if I go that route?

thanks!
 
Generally speaking here recognizing it is battery-specific so let’s assume stock dual battery setup for 2018 242Xe. If I fully charge/condition both batteries with a marinerpro then run the stereo and connext screen...in float mode no engines...are we talking couple hours, half day, all day as far as expectations go as to how long before low house battery?

my batteries have stickers on them of 9/17 and 2/18. Is this the production date for each?

Finally - replacement recommendations if I go that route?

thanks!
@meegwell ..... A battery's ability to power XY or Z will depend on the: 1. Group or Series = battery size with the most common are 12 volt series 24, 27 or 31 2. Battery Chemistry - flooded and even gel chemistries are IMO "old news" the benefits of newer AGM chemistries or better yet the new beasts on the block AGM TPPL are game changers for both slow discharging and super-fast recharging 3. Rate of Discharge So a 200 Ah rated battery could deliver a 10 amp load for 20rs. and/or Reserve Minutes which is the number of minutes a battery can run a 25 amp load until dropping to 10.5 volts GUIDELINE: anything around 100 Ah and 200 reserve minutes is pretty darn durable under load. 4. Rate (speed) of Re- Charge - an AGM TPPL can accept a heavier AND faster rate of re-charge at up to 300 % of its Ah which is AWESOME......So, IMO......Size and Chemistry are the two biggest factors. Therefore a Series/Group 31 TPPL would have 100+Ah, 220 +/- Reserve Minutes, 1200 CCA, 1400 MCA, go to 80% of discharge 400 times and re-charge at 300% +/_ of its Ah rating..........Want to have power at anchor then: 2 X Series 31 TPPL and BAM!!!!! :cool:
 
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@meegwell ..... A battery's ability to power XY or Z will depend on the: 1. Group or Series = battery size with the most common are 12 volt series 24, 27 or 31 2. Battery Chemistry - flooded and even gel chemistries are IMO "old news" the benefits of newer AGM chemistries or better yet the new beasts on the block AGM TPPL are game changers for both slow discharging and super-fast recharging 3. Rate of Discharge So a 200 Ah rated battery could deliver a 10 amp load for 20rs. and/or Reserve Minutes which is the number of minutes a battery can run a 25 amp load until dropping to 10.5 volts GUIDELINE: anything around 100 Ah and 200 reserve minutes is darn pretty durable under load. 4. Rate (speed) of Re- Charge - an AGM TPPL can accept a heavier AND faster rate of re-charge at up to 300 % of its Ah which is AWESOME......So, IMO......Size and Chemistry are the two biggest factors. Therefore a Series/Group 31 TPPL would have 100+Ah, 220 +/- Reserve Minutes, 1200 CCA, 1400 MCA, go to 80% of discharge 400 times and re-charge at 300% +/_ of its Ah rating..........Want to have power at anchor then: 2 X Series 31 TPPL and BAM!!!!! :cool:


Thank you. It has been steady rain for three straight days here and my boat is covered so I can't see what my batteries are hence the generic question. It (maybe) sounds like if my stock 2-3 year-old 242Xe batteries are still powering the boat, it would not be surprising if they were the type of battery and the type of condition that would only allow the connext & stereo to run for about an hour with no engines, on a trailer, in float mode ( with bilge and a few minutes of blower at start)?
 
Generally speaking here recognizing it is battery-specific so let’s assume stock dual battery setup for 2018 242Xe. If I fully charge/condition both batteries with a marinerpro then run the stereo and connext screen...in float mode no engines...are we talking couple hours, half day, all day as far as expectations go as to how long before low house battery?

my batteries have stickers on them of 9/17 and 2/18. Is this the production date for each?

Finally - replacement recommendations if I go that route?

thanks!

I suspect that the dates you listed are the manufacturing dates. Assuming these are flooded lead acid batteries of the group 27 size, are in good condition and were properly maintained, they are probably at half of their service life.

Assuming again that the above statement is accurate, and with the loading you described with a stock stereo, I’d say you could go 8 hours before the house battery would start to get low. The connext screen with it’s micro processor and LCD screen are pretty thrifty with milliamps.

@Canuckjetboater makes some great points about batteries!

What comes into play when deciding on batteries is cost as well as performance. For ability to discharge deeply and charge quickly, no maintenance, the Lithium ion type of batteries are great, not to mention their 60% less weight, their cost is the main downside. If you decide to go the lithium ion route, I’d give Yamaha corporate a call and verify this type of battery is compatible with your boats charging system. I had talked with them once about the lithium batteries, and all I remember from that conversation was that the lithium ion batteries had not worked out well with Yamaha outboard engines-these engines have a more traditional style of alternator/ automotive style which is different from the charging system in our boats. It has to do with how quickly the lithium ion batteries charge / charge rate, which is much higher than traditional lead acid batteries. The outboard / automotive style of alternator uses a regulator that varies the magnetic field strength to regulate the amount of voltage / charge output. Whereas our charging systems have a fixed magnetic field and the regulator shunts excess voltage/charge to ground.

I’m a big fan of Trojan batteries, talked to their tech line one day about their lithium batteries and the aforementioned issue of charge rate. The Trojan tech told me their line of lithium ion battery has a microprocessor based switch that will disconnect the battery for a short period of time if the charge or discharge rate is too high. I would imagine most lithium ion batteries have that type of tech, but it’s worth investigating if you decide to go that route.

I have lithium ion batteries in my dirt bikes, but that is the only place I have them. These batteries made by antigravity were / are a huge improvement (50%) over the lead acid batteries that came in the bike in terms of cold cranking amps and amp hours. I have only experienced the only performance down side of lithium ion batteries a few times which is in temperatures of 32° or less they have dramatically reduced performance initially. Hit the start button when it’s that cold and the battery acts as if very low, wait 60 seconds and try it again and the performance is greater, wait another 60 seconds and hit the button the third time and the battery is at full output.

The batteries in my boat, start, house, and 36 volt trolling bank are all flooded lead acid group 27 size. These batteries are all dealership branded batteries and I do not know who manufactured them and so far they are working great. I have considered replacing the house and trolling motor bank batteries with lithium ion when they need to be replaced, however, that $1000 a piece price tag is daunting, I could replace a flooded lead acid battery I have 5 times for the cost of one lithium ion battery. For me it comes down to performance, and so far the lead acid batteries are meeting my needs. The 60% weight savings (204#) of the lithium ion batteries would be nice, but I’d never notice it, except when removing / replacing them.

After floating for 6-8 hours with the connext screen off, my fish finder running, the stock stereo running, the live well aerator running intermittently, as well as the live well fill pump running occasionally, the house battery drops into the 11.4 volt range. Once the connext screen shows an alarm for low house battery voltage I’ll start the engines and troll with them for a while until I see the house battery voltage recover to 14 volts.

Hopefully that missive gives you a bit of idea about battery life and battery choices.


Here is a link for you to consider. Measuring A Lead Acid Battery State of Charge by Compass Marine How To
 
Thank you. It has been steady rain for three straight days here and my boat is covered so I can't see what my batteries are hence the generic question. It (maybe) sounds like if my stock 2-3 year-old 242Xe batteries are still powering the boat, it would not be surprising if they were the type of battery and the type of condition that would only allow the connext & stereo to run for about an hour with no engines, on a trailer, in float mode ( with bilge and a few minutes of blower at start)?

I think you’d get more hours than that out of your batteries.

Try this. Check the status lights of your battery charger, if they show all charged up and in maintenance charge, disconnect the battery charger and let it sit for two days, then check the battery voltage. If you have the OEM battery switch with it’s DVSR, and the little red light is on, you will need to disconnect the ground lead from the house battery. The little red light means the DVSR is closed and the start and house batteries are in parallel until the voltage on the start battery drops to 12.7 volts. Once that is done, wait two days and check the voltage, this will give you a good idea how healthy your batteries are. I just did this test myself.

73E54256-8F02-475C-B5C7-3516E34DC823.png
 
Isnt it lithium iron you want in the boat not lithium ion?
 
I think you’d get more hours than that out of your batteries.

Try this. Check the status lights of your battery charger, if they show all charged up and in maintenance charge, disconnect the battery charger and let it sit for two days, then check the battery voltage. If you have the OEM battery switch with it’s DVSR, and the little red light is on, you will need to disconnect the ground lead from the house battery. The little red light means the DVSR is closed and the start and house batteries are in parallel until the voltage on the start battery drops to 12.7 volts. Once that is done, wait two days and check the voltage, this will give you a good idea how healthy your batteries are. I just did this test myself.

View attachment 145728

Thank yo I will try this. That looks very similar to the cluster I have. I thought it was unusual that I got low voltage after an hour or so.

Should I have the batteries switched off during that 2 days?
 
Thank yo I will try this. That looks very similar to the cluster I have. I thought it was unusual that I got low voltage after an hour or so.

Should I have the batteries switched off during that 2 days?

Yes. Separate them at the beginning of the test. Just lift the grounds on each battery to make sure they are isolated from any loads. Once the batteries have sat for two days take voltage reading on them. They should be in the 12.6 volt range.

Based on what you just said your house battery could have issues. I assume you have checked electrolyte levels?

It’s really important that you do not leave the batteries in a state of discharge. this causes sulphation of the plates. A good battery conditioner will help to clean the plates and stir the electrolyte.

When you get home from the water plug in your charger right when you get home.
 
So this is just for reference. I am have 2 Interstate Group 24 " 24M-XHD cranking batteries" in my boat, both made in late 2017. Reserve of 135 mins @25 Amps

I keep them charged with Noco Genius 2 bank charger when not in use.

I have 8 - 6.5 Wet sounds speakers, 1- 8" Sub and 1 -10" sub running off of two amps. Play the music at about 50-60% volume (pretty loud) and float 4-5 hours on only the house battery and never had an issue. Keeping the batteries fully charged between each outing I believe really makes the difference.
 
So this is just for reference. I am have 2 Interstate Group 24 " 24M-XHD cranking batteries" in my boat, both made in late 2017. Reserve of 135 mins @25 Amps

I keep them charged with Noco Genius 2 bank charger when not in use.

I have 8 - 6.5 Wet sounds speakers, 1- 8" Sub and 1 -10" sub running off of two amps. Play the music at about 50-60% volume (pretty loud) and float 4-5 hours on only the house battery and never had an issue. Keeping the batteries fully charged between each outing I believe really makes the difference.


I think my issue stems from them not being charged/conditioned between ownership. The old owner already had his new boat and mine was in a dealer showroom not charging. On their lot and being prepped prior to that. Then there was time between my purchase and having it shipped, then me actually playing around with it...then buying the charger...:)

Anyway looks like rain is stopped here going to have some time to mess around with it.
 
@FSH 210 Sport In regards to battery manufacturing, it's been my understanding that most batteries are made by Johnson Controls. They are manufactured to a suppliers specifications, and then badged accordingly. I was told this at a training seminar for Allison Hybrid Transmissions.(Traction Motors) Not sure how accurate it is, but I've heard it before.
 
@FSH 210 Sport In regards to battery manufacturing, it's been my understanding that most batteries are made by Johnson Controls. They are manufactured to a suppliers specifications, and then badged accordingly. I was told this at a training seminar for Allison Hybrid Transmissions.(Traction Motors) Not sure how accurate it is, but I've heard it before.

It wouldn’t surprise me at all.. just like Goodyear makes Cooper and other tires per that companies spec’s. I want to check on Trojan and see what they have to say just out of curiosity.

There is another popular brand of battery that used to be the stuff... but when they outsourced their production to china their quality dropped off markedly.

Thanks for posting that !!!
 
Another question - any problem having a mix of battery types if I replace the house with an AGM and keep the flooded as the starter?
 
Another question - any problem having a mix of battery types if I replace the house with an AGM and keep the flooded as the starter?
I have the ssme batteries in my boat. Going to roll with them and see what happens
 
As much as I like the idea of upgrading both to AGMs, assuming the starting one is fine and the house (starting instead of deep cycle) is my only issue, I am contemplating saving many hundreds $$ and replacing my house with a proper quality deep cycle flooded and be done with it.

After all I’ve learned today it makes perfect sense to me that the reason the house load kills the battery in an hour or less is because there was a dedicated starting battery installed there running house for 3 years. I could be wrong but starting to make sense.
 
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