issue getting spline off to replace impeller

[Robert Albert]

we have a SR230, 2004 and got a rock in it. we are in the process of taking the impeller off, and when we went to remove the spline we cannot pull it out. the barrings are shot, several pieces. any tricks on how to get it out?? it looks like from all the video you just pull it out. thanks in advance for any help!.

 

[Julian]

Photos are helpful.....but are you saying you can't get the impeller off the shaft, or the shaft is stuck in the boat.....I think you are saying the shaft is stuck in the boat...??

 

[14SX190]

Got to pull hard.

DS end splines go into splines of mid bearing housing plate bolted to transom.

Years of corrosion and extreme pressure is making it difficult to just slide out

 

[Julian]

Check out this thread:

https://jetboaters.net/threads/starboard-shaft-is-stuck-and-wont-slide-out.25495/

For some references and photos of what others have done.

 

[Robert Albert]

Photos are helpful.....but are you saying you can't get the impeller off the shaft, or the shaft is stuck in the boat.....I think you are saying the shaft is stuck in the boat...??

shaft is stuck in boat

 

[Robert Albert]

Photos are helpful.....but are you saying you can't get the impeller off the shaft, or the shaft is stuck in the boat.....I think you are saying the shaft is stuck in the boat...??

yes, shaft stuck to the boat.

 

[Beachbummer]

Try turning impeller both ways...tap tap and pull.

 

[Robert Albert]

yes, shaft stuck to the boat.

will try, thanks!

 

[Robert Albert]

no luck, any other ideas???

 

[Scottintexas]

put a wratchet strap on the impeller housing and something behind the boat, get good tension on the strap and then gently tap the housing/shaft to help it "break" free while the strap is pulling,

get a 2x4 rested against the forward part of the housing and whack it with a hammer a few times,

 

[Robert Albert]

got it, put some tention on it with a truck ...

 

[Beachbummer]

tried rotating the shaft a bit both ways?

 

[Canuckjetboater]

Got to pull hard.

DS end splines go into splines of mid bearing housing plate bolted to transom.

Years of corrosion and extreme pressure is making it difficult to just slide out

@14SX190 .....AWESOME PICTURES OF BEARING CASE + GREASE NIPPLE.....your picture to help @Robert Albert ALSO answers questions from forum members regarding greasing the bearing housing (first at 10 hours then every 100 hours or 6 months). IMO your picture (split case) shows the bearing in position with grease around it. This is what must be kept full to avoid water intrusion and keep the rubber perimeter seal lubricated. Nicely done!

 

[14SX190]

@14SX190 .....AWESOME PICTURES OF BEARING CASE + GREASE NIPPLE.....your picture to help @Robert Albert ALSO answers questions from forum members regarding greasing the bearing housing (first at 10 hours then every 100 hours or 6 months). IMO your picture (split case) shows the bearing in position with grease around it. This is what must be kept full to avoid water intrusion and keep the rubber perimeter seal lubricated. Nicely done!

Thanks.
I packed grease for that reason.

The grease nipple on mid bearing does very little other than spread over bearing race
Area in front or behind or where splines connect have zero way to service unless apart.
You can see where I was having water intrude behind plate attached to transom and caused rubber dampener to lift letting water into rear bearing.

 

[tdonoughue]

I have also heard of putting a 2x4 up the intake grate to tap on the impeller to coax the stuck shaft out (usually while the truck is attached, etc.).

 

[FLJetBoater]

What grease/anti-seize/seals/etc. should be used when reassembling these parts? Are any parts non-resuseable?There's a few places I could see...

1. Bolts holding nozzle/impeller duct to transom plate. Does anyone know the specified torque for these bolts?
2. Space between nozzle and impeller duct
3. Space between impeller duct and impeller housing
4. Bolts holding cone on
5. Seals/o-ring inside cone

 

[tdonoughue]

The only one I can state with certainty is the seal/o-ring inside the cone. That is to be replaced each time the cone is taken off.

As to all of the torques, I have always used the 'enough' measure and had no issues. The 'enough' measure means you estimate how much torque it took to take it off and put that back on. And I put anti-seize on most things, whether that is the spec or not.

 

[Robert Albert]

we ended up getting it off, but we needed to get some tension on it, and some light tugs with a truck. but it worked. runs great now! thanks again everyone for the help!