• Welcome to Jetboaters.net!

    We are delighted you have found your way to the best Jet Boaters Forum on the internet! Please consider Signing Up so that you can enjoy all the features and offers on the forum. We have members with boats from all the major manufacturers including Yamaha, Seadoo, Scarab and Chaparral. We don't email you SPAM, and the site is totally non-commercial. So what's to lose? IT IS FREE!

    Membership allows you to ask questions (no matter how mundane), meet up with other jet boaters, see full images (not just thumbnails), browse the member map and qualifies you for members only discounts offered by vendors who run specials for our members only! (It also gets rid of this banner!)

    free hit counter
  • Announcing the 2024 Jetboat Pilot 10th Annual Marine Mat Group Buy for JetBoaters.net members only! This is your best time to buy Marine Mat from JetboatPilot - you won't get a better price - 30% Off! Use Coupon Code JETBOATERS.NET at checkout.

    So if you are tired of stepping on really hot snaps/carpet, or tired of that musty carpet smell - Marine Mat is the best alternative out there! Get in on this now, or pay more later!

    You only have until September 30th to get in on this.....So Hurry!

    You can dismiss this notice by clicking on the "X" in the upper right corner>>>>>>>>

Labor Day - Locked Brake Caliper - Dammmmmit

DoubleThrust

DoubleThrust

Jet Boat Addict
Messages
237
Reaction score
62
Points
107
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2008
Boat Model
SS
Boat Length
21
Guys..

I'm trying to find part numbers to see if I can get a trailer brake caliper quickly enough locally to save my weekend. Luckily I found it had been sticking after only 20 minutes driving, at home, and not during the trip I was about to take... but it still sucks.

This is what I've found so far...

http://www.ufpnet.com/Portals/0/PDFs/DiscBrakes.PDF (supposedly correct for an AR230 trailer, not sure if its the same or how to cross reference that locally..

And from Mel...


"UFP (Tennessee)
1041 Baxter Lane
Winchester, TN 37398
Telephone: (931) 967-5101
(800) 835-9211
Fax: (931) 967-1828
Email: dbackussr@ufpnet.com


You have the DB35 disc brakes and the A-75 Surge brake unit."


Anyone have a part number I can walk into an auto parts store with???
 
How far are you going and what are you towing with? I have to assume it isn't a short trip and you aren't towing with a full size truck with huge disc breaks? If you were, I'd loosen the caliper and put the brake lockout "thingy" in and get on your way.

Fine print: following my directions in no way means this isn't dangerous.....proceed at your own risk!
 
Hmmm LOL. Tempting but I'm not sure.

I pulled the wheel and everything looks clean and new, but the one side was sticking and the other not, so it's definitely not something stuck in the actuator or upstream of the hydraulic split if that makes sense. I pulled the cover on the actuator for the first time, and there's just so little to look at.

I'm not sure what to do, crack the bleed nipple and see if any chunks come out that could be clogging things up, just try to find a new caliper and replace??
 
It was worse than I thought. Rotor is cracked also. So a version of your suggestion Julian is in play, just to get it back to storage until I can get proper parts in. Bummer. I have too many toys, because they all need maintained. I think next year I'm going down to just one LOL.
 
What Julian said. Break the blender loose and compress the caliper. If that's doest work take the pads out. Not sure what your driving but leave more room than usual to stop. Ive done it before with a 1500. I left lots of room between me and any vehicle.

you could just pull the caliper off and plug the line. I know everybody has opinionso_O
 
I know it's not the best (safest) solution, but I pulled my boat for a year or so locally, with the calipers and discs removed with my Expedition. Never felt like the truck couldn't handle it, but I was very cautious and gave myself plenty of stopping room. It just depends on the mass of what you are towing with...
 
Thanks guys. Mail ordering parts is the clear requirement. Made it back to storage ok, grilled and hung out at the pool instead. Two hours in I'd forgotten about it all and was having a good day. I'll deal with it later :) I just hope a caliper does it & there's not crap in the lines that will cause another issue or something..
 
I"m not sure if you can remove the calipers from one side and just use the other side for trailer brakes. At least that way there'd be some braking on the trailer.

If you can free up the the stuck pads, another thing that will work is extend the tongue of the trailer, and then put a C-clamp around the actuator...to keep it from compressing. It's not overly pretty, but works.
 
@DoubleThrust , you can just pull the wheel, pull
The caliper unit off the disk on the pivot bolt, and use a big C-clamp to press the stuck caliper away from the disc. Then block out the brakes with the block out key. I suspect if the caliper itself moves freely and isn't frozen due to corrosion/rust, that you just need to bleed the brakes to get them working correctly. Air in the lines is common and causes big brake issues. Either way, if your tow vehicle is adequate and you don't get in a panic stop situation, don't let the brakes mess up your holiday! Safe travels.
 
Thanks guys for the input, I appreciate it.

Mel... everything looked super clean, nearly new it's true. However, am I missing scenario where air in the lines could cause a locked rotor effect? Just considering if there's something I've not thought of before, but this seems too easy to be true LOL. Thus, I ask :)
 
Air in the lines, or trash is pretty incidious. While it is new, just letting the fluid level in the reservoir get a tad low runs the risk of air in the brake lines. Also, folding that tongue repeatedly can be similar to a brake application, so a low reservoir and folding the tongue can set you up. But the odds are it is just a sticky caliper if you ask me, even if new. Could be a warped rotor causing it or the caliper itself. If you change the caliper, your going to have to bleed the brakes anyway. A chore at best. I would change it and take it to a trailer shop to let them bleed it. Bleeding then is really a PIA!
 
Reviving this thread... because now it's time to fix it!

So I'm told from Mel I have the DB-35 caliper, and will upgrade to Al as mentioned. I called Pacific and sat on hold long enough I got pissed and hung up. That was after MFI didn't answer and I had to leave them a message. F'ing trailer companies, I swear. Trailer companies (boat, enclosed, Uhaul, parts, OEMs, rental.... it doesn't matter) are like the bastard child of automotive parts departments (as if those weren't bad enough).

Anyway... apparently there are multiple possibilities for rotor - does anyone know what is stock? I'm guessing it's this 41019, but I'm not going to order based on a guess....

http://www.pacifictrailers.com/trailer-buddy-model-db-35-disc-brake-hub-rotor-9-3/4-3750-41019/
 
Well Dennis Backus from UFP (same guy from Mel's input) responded very quickly with part numbers, which was refreshing.

Except the numbers he gave me still aren't clearly listed on the various sites that are supposedly distributors. PITA. I think I need to get my manuals and confirm everything, the brave calling the distributors again once I've double checked exactly what I need.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top