Not your average plug question - Fixed

[FWBAR190]

Good Morning All. Firstly, thank you for all the knowledge posted. I've learned so much over the last few days. I just purchased a 2017 AR190. As I'm going through the boat, I notice the cleanout plug won't turn. I read every single post about cleanout plugs on this site as well as the Yamaha Jet Boat site, and with that knowledge I was able to turn the plug and get it out. Again... thank you so much.

So, now with the plug out, I've cleaned it up, scraped off the dogs, scraped off the channels, coated the whole thing in marine grade silicon oil (again, thanks for the tip) but I pretty much have to use a tool with quite a bit of force to get it to turn back to the locked position. There would be no possible way I could do this by hand.

It appears there are two "manhole" cover designs (I hope I have that term right). The long handle plug (I have) and the short T handle design. I couldn't find any information on why the design change. It looks like most of the rebuild kits are for the shorter T handle plug. I did read on here that the gaskets will expand a bit, but figured that would affect seating the plug, not really turning it (could be wrong).

I guess my questions are, is it typical to be so hard to rotate in and out of the locked position, needing a tool to get it open? Would a rebuild kit help? The kit only looks like it contains the gasket and plastic housing. Should I try the T handle design? I'm not sure which one is the newer design. Or just try and buy a replacement for what I already have, the long handle design.

Thanks for any feedback you could provide.

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

There were the twist in plugs up until the year 2000 then there were the push button " blow out plugs up to the year 2016 and then they went back to twist in plugs and I stopped following them after that.
I still make EZ locks to prevent the push button style plugs from blowing out however I keep seeing issues with the new style plugs that replaced the push button plugs, I suggest using bees wax to seal and lubricate the twist in style plugs as well as any places that need to be lubricated under the water like cables and pivot points on the nozzles and reverse gates, avoid using any lubricants with solvents in them. Even the Vikings spent a lot of time and money trading for as well as collecting bees wax for their ships because it works so well resisting water it will also help reduce any water leaking past the seals of those plugs..

 

[drewkaree]

Pics, pics, ALWAYS add pics. As great a description as someone can have, visuals of the situation can show something you missed or aren't aware of. We can also use those pics to help guide you as well, since descriptions of the possible fix are made easier as well.

You cannot switch to the older plug design, even if you wanted to, without replacing the mating parts as well, which would require fiberglass work and a serious amount of effort. The older design also has an issue with damaging things if/when it lets loose, which is the reason for the redesign

The rubber seals most definitely can make it difficult to turn the plug, as there's 180 degrees of friction material ghat you're trying to spin. The rebuild kits should include the plastic base and the rubber ring, because the rest is metal, and those would typically be your only wear parts.

If you get us pics, we can see if it looks like you could benefit from a rebuild kit, and I will have info tomorrow on whether or not there's a cheaper solution if you only require the rubber ring.

Regarding your plug and the mating pieces you scraped, do they feel corroded or pitted? If so, that may need to be addressed. Show pics

Lastly, there's a "SET" and "LOCK" position. It needs to be in the set position, seated fully down, and then turned. If it moves from the SET position, it will apparently still be able to be turned, but could jam or be difficult to turn.

Send pics, we can get you squared away. These plugs aren't too complicated

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

So I can’t go back to the old clean out plug design?



No, but if you could, would you really want to?

 

[FWBAR190]

Thanks all. I'll get some pics up tomorrow. I really appreciate it.

 

[FWBAR190]

This time with pictures. Can't install or remove by hand. Used tool to remove, cleanup and lube but no joy. Thanks again for any ideas you may have.

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

I would sand the rough edges of the metal and clean or sand the inside ring so it is smooth

 

[FWBAR190]

I would sand the rough edges of the metal and clean or sand the inside ring so it is smooth

Thank you. I sanded the dog ears real good as well as the channels inside the port. No joy, so I took the plug apart and didn't notice anything weird, so I left the actual plug part off and just installed the handle on the metal lock piece and I had very little resistance locking into place, so I put the whole thing back together and it was like it was before, impossible to turn by hand and a ton of leverage with the tool. I did notice that there was some buildup in the port itself, so I cleaned that up but nothing changed.

So now I'm wondering if the gasket could have expanded causing the plug to bind up twisting it. Just ordered the rebuild kit, so hopefully that will fix it. I appreciate the help, thank you.

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

Ok so yes the gasket can expand if people use solvents or other lubricants that react with it That is why I always say use bees wax it won't harm the seal and it won't wash off in water plus it helps to seal the water out

 

[YoDaddy292]

Are you being careful to line up the three tabs on the plug to the three slots on the port? If not you could be essentially cross threading it into place. Make sure you push down on the plug as you twist it into the locked position (all this sounds academic but I did this when I first got the boat). Like mentioned above, sand and polish both the plug and port surfaces and wax the rubber ring.
Also, I don't know how the pro's do it, but I remove the clean out plugs after every use. Shake the water out, re-lube, and leave them out until you are going back in the water......I got ultra paranoid after all the stories and threads about stuck and damaged clean out plugs.

 

[FWBAR190]

Are you being careful to line up the three tabs on the plug to the three slots on the port? If not you could be essentially cross threading it into place. Make sure you push down on the plug as you twist it into the locked position (all this sounds academic but I did this when I first got the boat). Like mentioned above, sand and polish both the plug and port surfaces and wax the rubber ring.
Also, I don't know how the pro's do it, but I remove the clean out plugs after every use. Shake the water out, re-lube, and leave them out until you are going back in the water......I got ultra paranoid after all the stories and threads about stuck and damaged clean out plugs.

Yeah - thanks. I work on cars and bikes too. The dogs and channels are pretty big as well as the set position of the key. I've taken the plug and gasket section off and just used the handle and metal lock section and it fit as expected, very easy to insert and twist, so I'm pretty sure it's the gasket and/or the plug. I've already ordered a rebuild kit from Partzilla and it shipped yesterday so I should know in a couple of days if that's the fix. Thanks for the reply.

 

[FWBAR190]

Are you being careful to line up the three tabs on the plug to the three slots on the port? If not you could be essentially cross threading it into place. Make sure you push down on the plug as you twist it into the locked position (all this sounds academic but I did this when I first got the boat). Like mentioned above, sand and polish both the plug and port surfaces and wax the rubber ring.
Also, I don't know how the pro's do it, but I remove the clean out plugs after every use. Shake the water out, re-lube, and leave them out until you are going back in the water......I got ultra paranoid after all the stories and threads about stuck and damaged clean out plugs.

Yeah - thanks. I work on cars and bikes too. The dogs and channels are pretty big as well as the set position of the key. I've taken the plug and gasket section off and just used the handle and metal lock section and it fit as expected, very easy to insert and twist, so I'm pretty sure it's the gasket and/or the plug. I've already ordered a rebuild kit from Partzilla and it shipped yesterday so I should know in a couple of days if that's the fix. Thanks for the reply.

 

[FWBAR190]

Fixed -
Rebuild kit came in a day early (Partzilla). Installed, now turns as would be expected. Thanks for all the tips.