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Sheared off driveshaft 2019 242x

TheOddDuck

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I had cavitation and pulled out this morning. Pulled the pump off thinking it was the terminal bearing under the cone and the pump just fell out. The driveshaft sheared mid shaft. I am stuck now trying to get the driveshaft out of the intermediate bearing… I know it’s well greased because I had it out last summer to replace wear rings. That’s been about 100 hours ago and last night it just sheared off. I can’t get it to budge. Any ideas are helpful. I already broke a descent ratchet strap that was doubled over around a tree. I don’t have a welder or I’d weld a chain onto it and pull with the truck. Please help!
 

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Acard7

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I’d say some vice grips but not sure those would hang on that well either..
 

FSH 210 Sport

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The first thing I’d do would be to get on the shat with a pair of channel locks or pipe wrench and rotate the shaft back and forth a little bit to see if that will loosen the grip the splines have on the shaft. You may also want to try moving the shaft in a circular motion to see if that frees it up as well. Use lighter pressure while doing these steps and you may find the shaft pulls out by hand, it is in a bind of some kind.

Next you need to find a two piece clamp or perhaps even a muffler type clamp to keep what ever you are going to pull with from slipping on the shaft. Again using light pressure trying to pull it out, try moving the shaft around as mentioned above to get it to come free. Remember, you are pulling against the transom, so using a truck to pull it out would not be that good of an idea.

You should do a search on this site, there are threads about this situation happening to other people.
 

TheOddDuck

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I got it. I used truck strap tension and then tapped on it with a hammer. Now I need a drive shaft. I’m in key largo, anyone know anybody with a ski graveyard down here ?
 

FSH 210 Sport

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Cobra Jet Steering LLC

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Looking at your picture it appears the dark part of the fracture was there a while and it finally failed completely where the clean part of the fracture shows in the center .
 

TheOddDuck

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Looking at your picture it appears the dark part of the fracture was there a while and it finally failed completely where the clean part of the fracture shows in the center .
That makes good sense. There is different coloring to it. Was on the trailer when being towed and the driver rear ended a bus about two months ago and has been in the water almost since that. I wondered if the impact could’ve caused damage. Thank you.
 

TheOddDuck

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Update. I got the shaft out of the boat and out of the impeller housing. The impeller is stuck and I am sure I’m turning the “right” direction (pun intended). So advice on that is appreciated. The other thing is there is some sort of pressed on washer at the base of the impeller? Is that part of the drive shaft? I don’t see it on the partzilla diagram. I found a place that has the driveshaft 150 used or 300 new. It’s in Hialeah and not open until tomorrow morning so any other sources would be good. The guy down in the southern keys (that’s listed above) said he doesn’t have it. See new pics.
 

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Cobra Jet Steering LLC

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Those are no fun getting them out the force needed is pretty huge and you may need to just replace the impeller also . The accident probably had no effect on the driveshaft cavitation for a prolonged time and the force on the impeller are the usual causes
 

TheOddDuck

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Those are no fun getting them out the force needed is pretty huge and you may need to just replace the impeller also . The accident probably had no effect on the driveshaft cavitation for a prolonged time and the force on the impeller are the usual causes
Do you think I should go with the solas or whatever upgrade they offer? Will it make a difference? I know Riva used to stock them. Riva is right around the corner so I’m gonna check with them before I drive an hour plus to Hialeah. Riva will be expensive for factory prop.
 

Cobra Jet Steering LLC

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Do you think I should go with the solas or whatever upgrade they offer? Will it make a difference? I know Riva used to stock them. Riva is right around the corner so I’m gonna check with them before I drive an hour plus to Hialeah. Riva will be expensive for factory prop.
Maybe check with a machine shop and see if they have any ideas to remove the broken driveshaft end possibly welding a big nut to the end would get the job done if they can secure the shaft and get the torque on the prop. When I replace a prop I go with the one that the factory uses, any time I went with a different pitch etc I regretted it. The prop looked good, I actually thought it may have been replaced a while ago and that in itself is one way the driveshafts get fractured.
 

Wishfull1

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I don't know the anatomy of the jet pump and shaft, but the shaft nearest the impeller seems pretty worn down? Is it possible a worn / locked bearing caused the weak shaft to break? Is there a bearing at that location? Or is that normal wear?

I thought I recall seeing on the forum that cone bearings can take out shafts or engines.
 
Last edited:

Cobra Jet Steering LLC

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There are bearings in the pump and it does look a bit ragged1712537364689.png as does the area near the pump in the intake area like a rock or something may have been bouncing around in there at some time 1712537311949.png the polished area on the broken end of the shaft was probably caused by a rope getting sucked in there or something similar.
 

TheOddDuck

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I checked the bearings and they are both good in the pump. I packed them with marine grease about two years ago and it was still dry and greasy in there with no sign of breakdown. I think I sucked up some heavy trawling line last night. I went by two boats in jewfish creek that were going back and forth under the bridge right in the way and I think I sucked up something they had in the water. It makes the most sense with the polished shaft area. I think I’m going to hit Wheatons garage tomorrow and see if I can’t use a stick welder for a minute and weld the broken shaft onto the piece stuck in the impeller then I just need a 27mm wrench and breaker bar. They’ve done a lot of auto and trailer work for me in the past and are pretty good so I’m hopeful. I think cause of failure was I replaced the wear ring and wasn’t very gentle with the shaft. Then I sucked up a heavy line or something last night and viola. It snapped. I kept running it home and burnt off the line. I found a thin layer of maybe plastic on the inside wall of the impeller also.
 

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Last edited:

TheOddDuck

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I agree. I never would run with rope. We were out at night and the sound was rough so I made the decision to stay running and get back to the canal about a mile or two away. Checked for rope when we got back to the dock and it was clear in the clean out plug.

I struck out in Miami. All the shops that thought they had it in stock had the longer jet ski shaft. I called partzilla and they overnighted it for 45$ so I should have it tomorrow. Messed with my eclipse plans though. We were trying to be out in the bay to watch it but we’re on the dock.
 

TheOddDuck

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Well I got it all back together on Tuesday night and got out on the water. The pump is much tighter and sounds tighter now. Ran it on a 3+ hour round trip and noticed increased speed capability as well as increased fuel economy at my routine cruising speed of 30mph. I appreciate all the conversation and help on this problem. I pulled the boat yesterday. I’m gonna go through both pumps and tighten them up then see what kind of fuel economy I get.

At 30mph I averaged 2+mpg with the wind and 1.9 against which is a big improvement from my best overall average norm around 1.7-1.8 mpg. I think the shaft may have been damaged for a while a just finally finished snapping that night. Thanks again.
 
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