Shorelandr Trailer Brakes Stopped Working

[Scoop]

I noticed as I was towing my boat today that the boat seemed to be pushing the truck when I stopped, even to the point where the anti-skid started to cycle on my Suburban. It seemed to me that my trailer brakes where not working. Well long story short, after backing uphill into the driveway with the lights unconnected, jacking the boat up and having the surge brakes compressed - NADA. Zero Braking action. This is in stark contrast to when I tried to back up once with the trailer lights unconnected and the boat brakes would instantly lock up.

The boat is still under the extended warranty for 2 more months under the Y.E.S. Program. I checked the brake fluid and even topped it off - still nothing. Maybe the solenoid failed in the brake release position?

Two questions:

Any thing simple that I am overlooking?
Do I just take it to a Yamaha dealer with the boat on the trailer? Does the warranty even cover the trailer?

OK - Three qustions.

Any guidance would be appreciated.

Thanks

 

[HangOutdoors]

I believe. And someone can correct me, that the YES warranty doesnt cover the trailer. You get 1 year from date of purchase unless you purchased a trailer warranty. I asked this question recently when I extended my warranty with yamaha on the phone. Was a bit dissapointed.

With respect to your issue, maybe a lot of air got in the lines.

 

[Sean R]

The first thing I would do would be G.T.S. (Google That Shit)

 

[Neutron]

Trailer in definitely not covered.
Is there fluid in the reservoir?
Does the tongue slide back or is it jammed?
If it moved freely then the problem is in the caliper area

 

[Scoop]

Full of brake fluid and the tongue slides freely fore and aft. I am thinking failed solenoid - like it always thinks I am in reverse. Yes I will dive into some serious google research but what better source of knowledge then this site.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Full of brake fluid and the tongue slides freely fore and aft. I am thinking failed solenoid - like it always thinks I am in reverse. Yes I will dive into some serious google research but what better source of knowledge then this site.

That will be interesting if the solenoid failed open... I’d think that solenoid bypass would be a normally closed held open (in reverse) so the brakes would not have a failure like you are talking about. It is still possible though.

Your issue sounds more like a bad master cylinder to me. I’d try bleeding the brakes to see if that has any effect. Was there a precipitating event, like a tow with a long down hill where in the brakes could have over heated?

 

[Neutron]

That will be interesting if the solenoid failed open... I’d think that solenoid bypass would be a normally closed held open (in reverse) so the brakes would not have a failure like you are talking about. It is still possible though.

Your issue sounds more like a bad master cylinder to me. I’d try bleeding the brakes to see if that has any effect. Was there a precipitating event, like a tow with a long down hill where in the brakes could have over heated?

I agree start with fresh fluid and a proper bleed.

 

[Chip F.]

If you find out it is parts related to the actuator they have a two year warranty from the date of manufacture if it’s UFP. Find the paperwork that came with it and check. It also comes with a troubleshooting guide. Just noticed your boat is 2018 - I’d still contact them anyway.

 

[Scoop]

That will be interesting if the solenoid failed open... I’d think that solenoid bypass would be a normally closed held open (in reverse) so the brakes would not have a failure like you are talking about. It is still possible though.

Your issue sounds more like a bad master cylinder to me. I’d try bleeding the brakes to see if that has any effect. Was there a precipitating event, like a tow with a long down hill where in the brakes could have over heated?

No precipation event - it worked 3 weeks ago on a flat 8 mile tow and was not working yesterday. Is there any way to test it by pulling on the emergency brake cable that we all attach to the tow vehicle? Can I pull on this and see if it applies the brakes?

Thanks for all the help.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

No precipation event - it worked 3 weeks ago on a flat 8 mile tow and was not working yesterday. Is there any way to test it by pulling on the emergency brake cable that we all attach to the tow vehicle? Can I pull on this and see if it applies the brakes?

Thanks for all the help.

Without reading the manual I don’t know what will happen if you pull the breakaway actuator cable other than it will attempt to apply the trailer brakes fully. I don’t know how to reset it. By towing / stopping you are already compressing the main actuator, so I don’t think the breakaway will do anything different.

Did you give all components a thorough visual?

 

[drewkaree]

Not sure if those are discs or drums, but if discs, you might get off with something as simple as the caliper slide pins are seized in the open position, and you just need to remove those, take some Emery cloth to them, put some anti seize on them, and reinstall them

No idea without being there looking at it with you, it could be a number of things, hopefully we hit a lot of the ideas for you to check out and one of them works out well for you. Fingers crossed

 

[Scoop]

Problem solved - but not exactly sure what solved it and what the problem was. I took off the wheels to visually check the brakes and every thing looked OK. Bleed the brakes thoroughly in accordance the below attached video but the fluid was clear and there was no bubbles at all. Maybe by manually pumping the actuator with a screwdriver as demonstrated in the video, I cleared something out or unstuck something. Bottom line brakes are fully working once again. If I try to back up without the trailer lights the brakes will totally lock - as they should. Also I can pretty easily feel the difference with the trailer brakes working - not a good feeling when your anti-skid starts to cycle on dry roadway!

Thanks for all the adivce - totally glad I started off with the bleed vice going down the solenoid rabbit hole.

Here is the video that helped with the brake bleed:

Trailer Disk Brake Bleed

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Dude that’s awesome! Glad it’s all good to go!

thanks for the vid link!

 

[RobbieO]

Without reading the manual I don’t know what will happen if you pull the breakaway actuator cable other than it will attempt to apply the trailer brakes fully. I don’t know how to reset it. By towing / stopping you are already compressing the main actuator, so I don’t think the breakaway will do anything different.

Did you give all components a thorough visual?

There is a lever under the tongue to reset the cable. I have been contemplating pulling the cable to use the trailer brakes as a parking brake. I have a sloped driveway, and that’s where I do my maintenance when I pull it out of storage.

 

[anmut]

There is a lever under the tongue to reset the cable. I have been contemplating pulling the cable to use the trailer brakes as a parking brake. I have a sloped driveway, and that’s where I do my maintenance when I pull it out of storage.

Better off with a good set of wheel chocks.

 

[RobbieO]

Better off with a good set of wheel chocks.
[/QUOTE

Better off with a good set of wheel chocks.

Yes, I use 4 of these. They are made for a 60ft NF bus, and hold my trailer. Was hoping to keep the wheels locked for extra security as well.

 

[Neutron]

You can do this, it keeps the brakes applied
I use this method when we have big storms

 

[RobbieO]

@Neutron without pulling the cable?

 

[Neutron]

@Neutron without pulling the cable?

Yes just put a chock behind the wheels and apply reverse pressure which moves the pin rearward. Have someone put lockout in front and you are all set. You should always use chocks as well as a bach up anyway

 

[Scoop]

I finally figured out what was going on. Somehow the Safety release bracket on the bottom of the actuator was getting "stuck." It apparantly wouldn't move even though the whole surge assembly would freely slide foward and aft.

Bottom line: If your Shorelander surge brakes stop working add checking freedom of movement on the safety release bracket below the surge assembly to the possible list of causes. Watch the Brake bleed video in post #12 above if you are not sure what I am talking about.