Still getting water draining for 2 minutes

[Blue Yonder]

Corked anchor box, scupper is good, resealed drain plug, minimal water in bilge area.

Went out for a 3 hours cruise. Made 100% sure clean out lid and plugs stayed dry. Checked them multiple times…bone dry. Water is in the hull and I have no idea where it’s coming from. When I pulled the plug in the ski locker water was coming through it. Main drain plug gushed for a solid 2 minutes after I trailered it out Anyone else have this issue??

 

[Babin Farms]

Bilge pump not working?

 

[Blue Yonder]

Bilge pump not working?

Yes, it works. Seems like the water is the hull. I guess the bilge doesn’t clear water from the hull/drain plug area?

 

[DaytonFlyer1068]

I had a 2019 212 and I had the same issue the whole time I owned it. I never figured out where the water was coming in from. I just got used to draining the water out after each trip. Good news was it never got to the point where the bilge would kick on. But it was pretty crazy at times to see how much water was in there.

 

[Blue Yonder]

I had a 2019 212 and I had the same issue the whole time I owned it. I never figured out where the water was coming in from. I just got used to draining the water out after each trip. Good news was it never got to the point where the bilge would kick on. But it was pretty crazy at times to see how much water was in there.

It’s crazy to me. I’m afraid to spend the whole day out on the water.

 

[DaytonFlyer1068]

Sounds weird but it was almost like the boat would “top off” at a certain point. I could spend 2 hours on the lake or 8 hours and I seemed to have the same amount of water without the bilge coming on at all. It’s almost like the boat took on that much water right away and then stopped. If your bilge doesn’t come on then maybe you are experiencing the same thing.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Corked anchor box, scupper is good, resealed drain plug, minimal water in bilge area.

Went out for a 3 hours cruise. Made 100% sure clean out lid and plugs stayed dry. Checked them multiple times…bone dry. Water is in the hull and I have no idea where it’s coming from. When I pulled the plug in the ski locker water was coming through it. Main drain plug gushed for a solid 2 minutes after I trailered it out Anyone else have this issue??

A lot of people have had this issue with the bow riders and the ski locker. So you put a “Cork” in the anchor locker drain but that doesn’t guarantee that water is not getting around the fitting.

@drewkaree posted this thread which is very thorough I suggest you give it a thorough perusing. My post is #118 in that thread. After following @drewkaree ’s advice I now have a dry bilge when I come off the water and you can too, it just takes some time and perseverance.

https://jetboaters.net/threads/replaced-my-anchor-locker-drain-fitting-due-to-leaks.32891/

One of the most common areas for water to get in is around the clean out tray.

 

[fireflymedic]

You didn't mention if water is cold or warm. If it's in front of ski locker probably cold but one should always check temp of water warm/hot water is leak from engine cooling water, usually

 

[anmut]

I would redo your anchor locker drain. Here's a super easy way to take care of this issue.

1) Glob a bunch of silicone into the drain.
2) Push a dowel through from the outside, moving it slowly around to create a hole through the drain and a seal at the same time.
3) Pull dowel all the way through, let dry, and trim remaining silicone from inside anchor locker.

 

[zipper]

Yes, it works. Seems like the water is the hull. I guess the bilge doesn’t clear water from the hull/drain plug area?

The bilge pump is mounted in the aft section of the engine bay. You can see it when looking back there. The pump is mounted over a hole in the engine bay floor. It draws water from that hole to the real bilge below, that runs from the transom drain plug to the ski locker forward. Due to hull design, the water likes to accumulate under the ski locker, while static. When you change the hull angle, bow up, the water will move back to the pump. Best done when accelerating to just before the boat planes when the bow is highest and holding it there. Water will usually be seen as it is pumped out on the starboard side.

Did you cork from the inside or the outside? It makes a difference.

 

[Blue Yonder]

You didn't mention if water is cold or warm. If it's in front of ski locker probably cold but one should always check temp of water warm/hot water is leak from engine cooling water, usually

It’s cold water.

 

[Blue Yonder]

The bilge pump is mounted in the aft section of the engine bay. You can see it when looking back there. The pump is mounted over a hole in the engine bay floor. It draws water from that hole to the real bilge below, that runs from the transom drain plug to the ski locker forward. Due to hull design, the water likes to accumulate under the ski locker, while static. When you change the hull angle, bow up, the water will move back to the pump. Best done when accelerating to just before the boat planes when the bow is highest and holding it there. Water will usually be seen as it is pumped out on the starboard side.

Did you cork from the inside or the outside? It makes a difference.

I corked it from the inside and duct tape the outside for reassurance. I checked multiple times when at low speed and no water was visible.

 

[Murf'n'surf]

Make sure your bilge is empty before hitting the water. Water from rain or washing the boat can sit in the forward part of the hull and then when you go out boating it runs to the back. So, put the boat on a downslope with the plug out to ensure its dry.

Possible entry points: Bow anchor locker drain, scupper, exhaust, engine cooling hoses, rear rub rail, seal on cleanout tray, aftermarket screws on transom.

 

[zipper]

Well the duct tape on the outside rules out the anchor locker thru hull, at least this source of water. And your clean out plug tops had no water on them? That rules out the clean out tray seal, again at least for this water issue. I would pull the inspection port(s) on the cleanout tray and take a look down in the bilge, maybe with a gopro, while in the water and look for leaks from the exhaust thru hull and the scupper. I assume you have not buried the rubrail and deck joint beneath, underwater lately. There are not too many more places to look.

 

[Murf'n'surf]

Make sure the scupper hose is solid, I have seen tears and melting between the deck and transom fitting.

 

[ZippyBoater]

Have you tried filling the hull with water (to a safe level) while your boat is on the trailer to see if it is leaking? If water is getting into the boat when it is sitting in the water, it will want to drain out of the boat when it is out of the water. I did that to test my replacement scupper valve. Good thing I did, it was still leaking and I was able to fix it before I put my boat in the water.

 

[Scottintexas]

some further testing needs to be done, it's inconvenient but will give you confidence in your boat,

do you see the bilge working while you're on the water or do you just hear it cycle ??

I'd start the day by pulling the drain plug at the ramp and making sure you have a dry boat to start with,

then I'd unload and slowly idle around the dock area for 15-20 checking the engine hatch and pulling the manhole cover between the cleanout to look down into the bilge area, if dry then I'd start running at higher speeds and checking,

my boat drains a good minute at least of water and I've about convinced my self it's how hard a tighten the drain plug when I install it,

When we surf and drop the backend in, I think we get a lot of water in through either the pop up cleat or the rub rail and the bilge will kick on often,

 

[Blue Yonder]

some further testing needs to be done, it's inconvenient but will give you confidence in your boat,

do you see the bilge working while you're on the water or do you just hear it cycle ??

I'd start the day by pulling the drain plug at the ramp and making sure you have a dry boat to start with,

then I'd unload and slowly idle around the dock area for 15-20 checking the engine hatch and pulling the manhole cover between the cleanout to look down into the bilge area, if dry then I'd start running at higher speeds and checking,

my boat drains a good minute at least of water and I've about convinced my self it's how hard a tighten the drain plug when I install it,

When we surf and drop the backend in, I think we get a lot of water in through either the pop up cleat or the rub rail and the bilge will kick on often,

I’ll try that today. Thanks!

 

[anmut]

my boat drains a good minute at least of water and I've about convinced my self it's how hard a tighten the drain plug when I install it,

This is a true statement. On my 2020, that o-ring was sensitive to being over torqued when I first bought it. Now I spray it with silicone and its tight.

 

[212s]

I found that sealing the clean-out hatch tray made a big difference for my boat. I used to get some water, maybe a gallon in the bilge, but after sealing the hatch tray my boat is bone dry. I use silicone spray on the hatch cover seal, clean-out plug seals, and I also use silicone spray on all underwater seals and fittings - spraying the transom plug O-ring, bucket and steering cables, linkages, etc. It's also good for the ball coupler lock, surge slide, 7-way plug, and interior hinges and fittings as it displaces water. I go through about a can of 3-in-1 silicone spray a season...better to spend a few bucks on preventative care than a few thousand on parts or damage.