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The official "What did you do to your jet boat today" thread.

jdonalds

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A few years ago I found a large nut and washer in the compartment where the battery is mounted in our SX210. They've been sitting on my garage bench for years.

I suspected that nut might be for the rear cleat. But there is a carpeted wall at the rear of that compartment requiring the removal of the screws to see what's behind the panel.

Today my adult daughter volunteered to climb into that space, unscrew the panel, and see if the rear cleat was indeed missing a nut or not. She is physically much smaller than I am, about 1/2 my weight. She also doesn't suffer from claustrophobia as I do. I had a difficult time just watching her crawl into that small space. It turned out that the cleat was missing a washer and nut. I figure this was an assembly error back in 2006 when the boat was built in Japan. I was so pleased my daughter did this little service on the boat, and that it was not a wasted effort. I do like to keep things in working order and am happy that nut and washer no longer will sit on my workbench.

 

Scottintexas

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@jdonalds Have you no heart man?! you didn't even take the battery out for her,

I at least did that (and caught her at about half the size)

emily in aft port cleat.jpg
 

jdonalds

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@jdonalds Have you no heart man?! you didn't even take the battery out for her,

I at least did that (and caught her at about half the size)

View attachment 77099
It was my daughter's suggestion to try it with the battery in. It didn't seem to hinder her at all.

It was hot though. I used a dustpan as a fan to circulate some air. Still she was dripping with sweat when she was finished.
 

buckbuck

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Careful with the pictures guys. Someone might report this as child abuse.
 

jdonalds

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Careful with the pictures guys. Someone might report this as child abuse.
Or child labor at least.

My daughter is 48 years old. If you think she looks like a child I'll have to pass that along to her. She'd be thrilled.
 

0627Devildog

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No more straight table leg umbrella envy. . . .20180622_224905.jpg 20180622_224826.jpg
 

arlowe13

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Today's work...running new battery cables to new Fuse box, installing new 5ch Clarion amp and 10in Bazooka sub, and fixing ground issue to dash panel lights. This amp/sub combo absolutely THUMPS. Loving it so far.
 

Attachments

haknslash

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Fire extinguisher mount
We make those :cool::D[flag]! Nice quality Amerex choice (H3R = private labeled Amerex fire extinguisher) and good on ya for picking BC / Sodium Bicarb for the boat! :thumbsup:
 
Last edited:

swatski

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We make those :cool::D[flag]! Nice quality Amerex choice (H3R = private labeled Amerex fire extinguisher) and good on ya for picking BC / Sodium Bicarb for the boat! :thumbsup:
could you make an official recommendation for the members - about what is best and least harmful/damaging. Can you sell those as a private sale? I would be interested in at least 2-3 units.

--
 

haknslash

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could you make an official recommendation for the members - about what is best and least harmful/damaging. Can you sell those as a private sale? I would be interested in at least 2-3 units.

--
For our boats you do not want to use ABC dry chemical. It has mono ammonium phosphate which is corrosive. The fine dust (it's more fine than baby powder) will kill electronics, wiring and corrode some untreated metals. There's not as much of a need to have an A class rating for Combustsble Rubbish on a boat than other classes, so stick to B (flammable liquids) and C (electrical fire) class rated extinguishers. Anything else I'd use a bucket of water. For a dry chemical go with a Sodium Bicarbonate extinguisher, which we refer to as "Regular Dry Chemical". It is not corrosive, so if you do put out the fire at least you won't make the situation worse by having your electronics and everything else that was contacted by the agent begin to corrode.

For a clean agent (no chemical residue to cleanup) the best units to fight a fire are Halon 1211 but they are super expensive because of the EPA. It's all the airline and aircraft industry use because it doesn't corrode and it's the best agent to fight a fire. A much cheaper alternative is CO2. It doesn't have the same knock down power as Halon (nothing does) but it's certainly a good agent for class B and C fires. This would be the extinguisher you would use for your engine or fuel compartments as well as any electrical fires where you don't want to clean up a ton of dry chemical residue.

I keep two extinguishers on my boat. I carry a 5 lb CO2 (model 322) extinguisher and a 5 lb Regular dry chemical (model B409T) extinguisher. Both are Class B:C rated. I'm not concerned with Class A fires because I'd just use the lake water to put it out if needed for a rubish fire.

I work in the Product Design Engineering department so I can't really help too much with sales. We don't sell directly to the public but rather through our distribution network, however you can find our products on Amazon which may be cheaper than I could get it for you + shipped costs. I would just have to see but I can certainly ask for you tomorrow morning with the sales manager to see if she could help me out for you.

Here is our product catalog which has all the information you would be looking for in shopping for the right extinguisher http://amerex-fire.com/upl/downloads/library/product-catalog.pdf. Just don't use an ABC dry chemical. Stick with Sodium Bicarbonate for a dry chemical unit. You'll want to buy a unit that has a "T' at the end of the model number which mean it comes with a vehicle bracket that is US Coast Guard approved. The CO2 units come with a wall bracket only, so for that one I just have it stuffed against my storage wall so it doesn't roll around and is easily accessible when/if needed.
 

swatski

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For our boats you do not want to use ABC dry chemical. It has mono ammonium phosphate which is corrosive. The fine dust (it's more fine than baby powder) will kill electronics, wiring and corrode some untreated metals. There's not as much of a need to have an A class rating for Combustsble Rubbish on a boat than other classes, so stick to B (flammable liquids) and C (electrical fire) class rated extinguishers. Anything else I'd use a bucket of water. For a dry chemical go with a Sodium Bicarbonate extinguisher, which we refer to as "Regular Dry Chemical". It is not corrosive, so if you do put out the fire at least you won't make the situation worse by having your electronics and everything else that was contacted by the agent begin to corrode.

For a clean agent (no chemical residue to cleanup) the best units to fight a fire are Halon 1211 but they are super expensive because of the EPA. It's all the airline and aircraft industry use because it doesn't corrode and it's the best agent to fight a fire. A much cheaper alternative is CO2. It doesn't have the same knock down power as Halon (nothing does) but it's certainly a good agent for class B and C fires. This would be the extinguisher you would use for your engine or fuel compartments as well as any electrical fires where you don't want to clean up a ton of dry chemical residue.

I keep two extinguishers on my boat. I carry a 5 lb CO2 (model 322) extinguisher and a 5 lb Regular dry chemical (model B409T) extinguisher. Both are Class B:C rated. I'm not concerned with Class A fires because I'd just use the lake water to put it out if needed for a rubish fire.

I work in the Product Design Engineering department so I can't really help too much with sales. We don't sell directly to the public but rather through our distribution network, however you can find our products on Amazon which may be cheaper than I could get it for you + shipped costs. I would just have to see but I can certainly ask for you tomorrow morning with the sales manager to see if she could help me out for you.

Here is our product catalog which has all the information you would be looking for in shopping for the right extinguisher http://amerex-fire.com/upl/downloads/library/product-catalog.pdf. Just don't use an ABC dry chemical. Stick with Sodium Bicarbonate for a dry chemical unit. You'll want to buy a unit that has a "T' at the end of the model number which mean it comes with a vehicle bracket that is US Coast Guard approved. The CO2 units come with a wall bracket only, so for that one I just have it stuffed against my storage wall so it doesn't roll around and is easily accessible when/if needed.
Wow, this is great info! Thank you.

@Administrative Maybe a good candidate for an FAQ item? This kind of info is a bit tricky to obtain strait up, as above, without needless disclaimers.

--
 

Bruce

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@Scottintexas, the fire extinguisher talk could be a good FAQ item.
 

Scottintexas

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Ok
If anyone else has any extinquisher links to include let me know
 
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