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We have been looking to add to our boating options

Made a short video to show the progression of the end of the season at the marina on Malletts Bay. Time lapse photo's taken since mid September thru this morning mid November.
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do you own your own dry support structure or does the marina include that in the fee?

that's a nice little employment boost to pull all those and then close them up,
 
@Scottintexas I do own the 6 legged craddle that she sits on. The shrinkwrap cover is now mine and 2x4 ridge support attached to the fore and back stays (wire rigging) and the mast is the marinas. I am a cheap fella and I might try to get another season out of the cover, by strategically cutting it loose and get my own 2x4's next winter at $20/ft. to wrap it. The real estate that she sits on over the winter is $40/ft. The previous owner covered her up with a tarp last winter and we still find pieces of it everywhere. The shrink wrap will allow me to do work, once I install a zippered door, to remove and re bed 2 port lites that leak before next season as well as a list of other things.
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As our boating season is on the hard, here are a few video links of some fast sailboats. It's not Poker Run fast but 40+ knots from the wind is impressive.


And

The World Sailing Show
 
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Went out to the Marina yesterday to check out the boat, under the shrinkwrap cover, since we just had them install a zippered door so I could get under there and continue some of the on going mods. A little dirty from their boots but not too bad. It is a lot nicer than the condition she was in with the grey tarp the P.O. had on her last winter. This is going to be nice to work under with a lot of room to stand up. The project up on deck that needed protection is the releasing of two port lites on port side, the two with the blue painters tape on them, and rebed them as they leak like a sieve. Luckily they leak into the galley sink. Also new cockpit teak strips in the cockpit are currently being made. The old ones...the picture says it all. Below deck, I need to make a 30' run, hidden in the cabin, of (2) 2ga. to complete the wiring to the windlass.
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Cockpit is empty. Took off the folding wheel w/ auto pilot drive and all of the Raymarine instruments in the Navpod.

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The hanging stuff forward is where they overlapped around the mast and shrouds. I will trim that on the next visit.
Docks are collapsed and stored for the season. The Lake is glass. Current air temp 38°, water temp. Cold enough to form ice at Lakes edge.
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@zipper - Sounds like a lot of work on a beautiful boat. Just say when, and I'll book the flight to come help you. :winkingthumbsup"
 
Went out to the Marina yesterday to check out the boat, under the shrinkwrap cover, since we just had them install a zippered door so I could get under there and continue some of the on going mods. A little dirty from their boots but not too bad. It is a lot nicer than condition she was in with the grey tarp the P.O. had on her last winter. This is going to be nice to work under with a lot of room to stand up. The project up on deck that needed protection is the releasing of two port lites on port side, the two with the blue painters tape on them, and rebed them as they leak like a sieve. Luckily they leak into the galley sink. Also new cockpit teak strips in the cockpit are currently being made. The old ones...the picture says it all. Below deck, I need to make a 30' run, hidden in the cabin, of (2) 2ga. to complete the wiring to the windlass.
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Cockpit is empty. Took off the folding wheel w/ auto pilot drive and all of the Raymarine instruments in the Navpod.

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The hanging stuff forward is where they overlapped around the mast and shrouds. I will trim that on the next visit.
Docks are collapsed and stored for the season. The Lake is glass. Current air temp 38°, water temp. Cold enough to form ice at Lakes edge.
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That is nice, like a camper tent - let the winter mods begin!

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One of the Winter/Spring projects on the Beneteau is replacing the original teak strips in the cockpit. As in the picture below, they are cracked, broken, missing and just worn out.
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We went to a local hardwood supplier The Tree House Hardwoods and Millshop and had them custom milled. Yes they made a knife for the shaper that matched the profile of the existing strips. So now I have all these Brazillian Teak strips that will be cut to length and the corners rounded. The originals were screwed and bunged, however I plan on filling the holes in the gelcoat and using silicone adhesive to hold them in place. These screw holes can be and have been a source of a leak to the interior.

I do like the low maintenance and look of weathered teak, however we prefer the look of oiled or finished teak more. Sooooo, keeping with lower maintenance and finished look, we have chosen to do a little more work up front to keep that finished look a while longer. I will be applying 3 coats of epoxy 105-207-epoxy-resin • WEST SYSTEM , followed by 3 coats of spar 2-pt. satin polyurethane .Epifanes Two Part Clear Polyurethane Will post pics. as I progress.

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The Epoxy Test - six epoxy types tested for UV damage
 
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I've always loved reading your thread, but never really paid attention I think. But, I'll tell ya - my first time ever on a sailboat today, a buddies 22s for a 3 hour nighttime cruise. I'm just speechless really, what a great experience. I wouldn't say I'm hooked, there is soooooo much to learn, but I certainly won't look the other way when I see a sailboat for sale anymore.

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I've always loved reading your thread, but never really paid attention I think. But, I'll tell ya - my first time ever on a sailboat today, a buddies 22s for a 3 hour nighttime cruise. I'm just speechless really, what a great experience. I wouldn't say I'm hooked, there is soooooo much to learn, but I certainly won't look the other way when I see a sailboat for sale anymore.

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Awesome, glad to have you aboard.:winkingthumbsup" there is a lot to learn. You got this!
 
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Went out to the boat to take some measurements for more canvas projects. I also took final measurements for the custom Anchor roller for the windlass. This project has been in the back of my mind for a while now. Trying to finalize the details and get it off the drawing board, kitchen table, and out to the shop.

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I wanted to verify that it would fit the anchor. So I drew a half scale drawing of my 22# Delta plow anchor.

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So I could check how the anchor would fit my design.

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Now back in the day, before AutoCad, which I do not have access to now, I would have used tracing paper or even better a light table to compare the fit.
So I used the next best light table...the sliding glass door.

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Fits pretty good on the rollers. Now to finish the assembly drawing and create a weldment drawing for the shop.
 
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Went out to the boat to take some measurements for more canvas projects. I also took final measurements for the custom Anchor roller for the windlass. This project has been in the back of my mind for a while now. Trying to finalize the details and get it off the drawing board, kitchen table, and out to the shop.

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I wanted to verify that it would fit the anchor. So I drew a half scale drawing of my 22# Delta plow anchor.

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So I could check how the anchor would fit my design.

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Now back in the day, before AutoCad, which I do not have access to now, I would have used tracing paper or even better a light table to compare the fit.
So I used the next best light table...the sliding glass door.

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Fits pretty good on the rollers. Now to finish the assembly drawing and create a weldment drawing for the shop.

Impressive work. Don't know many people who can still do pencil and board drafting anymore.

If you're looking for AutoCAD without the expense.....Check out Draftsight. Not as full featured, but free. If you want to step into 3D for free, Onshape is an excellent platform.
 
Impressive work. Don't know many people who can still do pencil and board drafting anymore.

If you're looking for AutoCAD without the expense.....Check out Draftsight. Not as full featured, but free. If you want to step into 3D for free, Onshape is an excellent platform.

Thanks, and thanks again for the info. The drawing is not ready to go out for production yet. Its more like a to scale sketch at this point. I grew up with a drafting board and tools in the house. After college I started Cad design work at IBM in 1983 on their CADAM system using two keyboards and a light pen. Thing is back then most of the drawings were on Mylar or paper and you had to know how to draw to make changes. Later I worked for a contractor using AutoCad in the 90's for SemiConductor Tool Facilities and Cleanroom Design and never needed most of the tools I still have. Although I have not found much drawing use out of this french curve.;)

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The weather up here turned cold and the sap stopped running until tomorrow, so I have been working on the cockpit teak strip project, at home, in the living room. Ya, we want it done that badly. I have cut the teak to the lengths needed and then I started shaping the ends to round them off some. Nobody likes pointy things on a boat, especially if you are sitting on it.

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I then wiped them down with acetone to remove any oil from the surface of the teak to give the epoxy a good clean surface to adhere to. As I mentioned in a previous post that I chose West Systems 105/207 to give us the finish we are looking for.
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I can say the premeasured pumps are the way to go.

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I mixed up two pumps of each as a starter and it went on very nicely. It is self leveling and did not drip. Well that is one coat of three coats of epoxy on one side of the strips. Here are a few of them and a lot more to go.

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After it hardens I will sand smooth and apply coat two. After coat three comes three coats of satin urethane. We think this will look great in the cockpit. As compared to post #148 above.
 

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The teak finishing is going well. Three coats of epoxy, now for the satin urethane to finish up. Really happy with the results so far. The two different teaks, Honduran and Brazillian, match pretty well even though the cockpit table, Honduran, is 28 years old. I will use satin finish on the teak strips because we will be walking on these and that finish will show fewer scuff marks than a gloss finish. Even though I really like the gloss.

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I moved the finishing project from the Living room to the apartment/sail loft next door. fumes and dog hair floating in air were a problem. Boat parts and pieces everywhere for both boats and a dinghy. Ya, there are two beds under all the stuff. Can't wait to get it all back on the boat very soon.

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Now that the weather is warming up I will be visiting the boat more frequently to complete unfinished projects. I will be removing all the old teak, cleaning up the cockpit and installing new. I will also be working on/completing the windlass install and rebedding the two leaking port lites. I recieved the #4 ga. tinned stranded copper wire for the run from the batteries, forward to the windlass. I just need to snake and conseal its presents. As well as mount the switch and the 90a breaker.

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Sunny and 60° today. No better time to go to the Beneteau and start the fix of the two leaking port lites that we found last year. You could see where a previous owner tried to squeeze more silicone in to no avail. I wanted to wait until spring and do it while under the shrinkwrap before we take it off. You can see that the top of the butyl gasket was not sealed. I could push it up just enough to slip a S.S. wire, one that we used to cut big cheeses with, to the outside so I could release the lite. I could stick my arm thru the hatch and pull on both ends of the wire from the outside. I did use a heat gun to soften the butyl in a couple of places. I need to remove the grab rail to to get them off. That part happens tomorrow when I remove the other lite.

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Beautiful Mid-April day at the Marina

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What a mess @zipper ! I know you can handle it and it'll be done right. We've had one leak through a hatch and was started when we had the hatch covered in Sunbrella by my canvas guy. The old gasket didn't like being disturbed and was replaced. We had another leak, but it was our fault, from one of our porthole windows. We didn't have it latched properly and we couldn't figure out where the water was coming from when we'd have a blowing rainstorm in the slip. Window is midship. We thought one of the screw holes for the bow rail was leaking. Sure glad it was just an unlatched window.

Just had our Sea Ray compounded and waxed by a professional from the rub rail up. I don't have the skill or the time this time of year to mess with it. The same person did my buddies boat next to me last spring and I was really impressed. So mine got done this year. Just had the oil and impellers changed on all three engines last month so we are ready for the season. Can't wait for warm and sunny weekends with our friends on the water.
 
Went back out to remove the other lite and grab rail. Working alone, again the cheese wire worked well.

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I used a single edge razor to remove as much caulk and butyl as I can without scraping up the gelcoat or acrylic. There is a lot of crazing on the lites after 28yrs and it is too deep to sand and polish. Gonna live with it, right now it would be a custom job and too pricey to have made.

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Still working on getting the residual silicone and butyl off so I can get a nice clean install. I just ordered a can of this Caulk releaser, does anyone have any experience with this product? It claims to release cured 5200. Fawcett Boat Supplies

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Thank you @zipper for all the updates! Makes me feel like I'm still down at that marina working on such beautiful boats as yours.
Also really appreciate the info on that adhesive remover.... I didn't even know that thing existed.
 
I finished the rebedding of the port lites/windows this afternoon. It went well and those will not leak now. Since the last post, I used the DeBond Marine Formula adhesive remover to clean up the the acrylic lites and the bedding area on the boat.

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It did a good job of removing the residual adhesive from the acrylic with the use of a plastic putty knife and a couple of finger nails. It turns the adhesive to goo which is easily wiped off.

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It does not harm/remove the remnants of the paint that was on the acrylic. I masked off the areas that I did not want the new adhesive, BoatLIFE LifeSeal Marine Sealant schmeered on.

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The tape job could have been better, but I will clean up the corners with a sharp razor after the adhesive cures.

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Happy with the results, Happier that these will not be leaking anymore.

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Stay tuned for the gelcoat buffing and boat name graphic install and Renaming Ceremony. I have a new rotary buffer with a wool pad. It will cut the oxidation better than my D/A. Also the cockpit teak finishing is almost done. I think it is beautiful and a HUGE improvement over existing teak. I love the slight figuring that a quarter sawn piece of teak has when finished.

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So much to do...in so little time.
 
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