We have been looking to add to our boating options

[Betik]

I have (2) Al80's needing a current hydrostatic pressure test/stamp. I need to haul her to install a Raymarine RV-200 thru hull sonar transducer that requires a 2 3/8" hole in the hull. Not gonna drill that with a tank on.

legally the stamp is needed only if you are transporting them on a public road. Unfortunaly to scuba store will fill them without the stamp though

on a serious note, have you seen this
https://jetboaters.net/threads/mounting-a-thru-hull-transducer.4477/

 

[Betik]

Awesome!

Indeed, this qualifies as "boat porn", in my book, lol.

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I was wondering the prop is Made In Japan, too. It will be tight squeeze for the shaft to fit.

 

[zipper]

I was wondering the prop is Made In Japan, too. It will be tight squeeze for the shaft to fit.

It's Italian.

 

[zipper]

Funny, I have two operating bilge pumps. You may have read that I had to replace both strainers in the system because the P.O. did not winterize, pump the anti freeze he poured into the bilge sump through the system where water sat and cracked both strainer caps. Had to replace both strainers. Not gonna test them with a 2 3/8" hole in the hull.

 

[zipper]

legally the stamp is needed only if you are transporting them on a public road. Unfortunaly to scuba store will fill them without the stamp though

on a serious note, have you seen this
https://jetboaters.net/threads/mounting-a-thru-hull-transducer.4477/

Yes I remember seeing that thread a while back. I assume that is your boat now. My transducer, 3 in 1, is a little bigger than that Airmar. And the direction is pretty straight FORWARD. It is a 0° deadrise and will mount to a pretty flat section of the hull, forward of the keel and requires no fairing block.



Removing the old paddle wheel speed xducer, patching that 2" hole and drilling a new one just forward of the patch. It is the only place it can go, due to the grid system inside of the boat under the sole. Raw fiberglass will be sealed with epoxy and Life Caulk will be used. Silicone based sealants are not to be used or come into contact with "face" of xducer.

 

[zipper]

Today Monday, is our only day off, each week, during blueberry season (6-7) wks long, so we take full advantage and go out in the boat. Lately it has been the Yamaha. Today we wanted to go out in the Beneteau to get some time behind the helm and practice manuvers like docking for a pump out. I know, does not sound like fun, but you will know when it is time to pump out the tank. Light winds in the bay today, but that was good for practicing a 2 person tack. Oh yea, we took off the training wheels, Doug, our Lawyer, friend and sailing instructor was not there, just us and we had a blast. It was good working and having fun together. After 27 years of marriage, on the 17th, this woman still amazes me.

 

[tdonoughue]

Congrats on the solo (well, for two, um, duo!) run! Looks like a blast!

Myself, I worked this Monday. <sigh>

 

[zipper]

Made progress on the Navpod/Instrument installation in the last couple of days. I removed the binnacle guard that I installed in a previous post so I could use the drill press to drill the holes accurately in the S.S. tubing. The drill press works much better than a hand drill for doing this.
Then I tapped the (4) smaller holes to receive a 1/4-20 mounting bolt. I put it back in the boat and installed the Navpod and instruments. Now to just finish the SeaTalk and power connections.

The Helm has changed from when we bought her this Spring.

Back then,

And Now,

 

[Betik]

I am keeping a very close on these posts because I bet in about 5 years you will be upgrading and she will be for sale, with jetboaters getting first tabs

 

[zipper]

Update: Hauled the Beneteau out today to put the thru hull transducer in as well as unstep the mast to install the wind instruments, a Windex, anamometer and wind direction indicator. We also replaced the stem head fitting, what the forestay connects to and removed the two blade prop to replace it with a new 3 blade feathering prop. Finished the thru hull install, minus some bottom paint, and the stem head fitting. Prop and wind instruments oh, and spreader lights tomorrow.

Removed the old paddle wheel transducer

Glassed in the patch and used this to support it. Filled the hole with West Systems epoxy with collodial silica

View from the inside

And the RV 200 from the outside

Assembled the Windex

Will install tomorrow with the other wind instruments just before we step the mast. I like the guys at this Marina, they let you work with them to get the job done faster.

 

[zipper]

Here are the final pics. of the new equipment we installed. Starting with the MaxProp.

Feathered

Engaged in reverse position. These have the same leading edge/pitch in fwd. and rev. Left handed prop.
And the wind instruments

And with the mast up (stepped)

Long story on the spredder lights...ordered from West Marine with 2nd day air delivery

But initially received these

They said keep them and overnighted the lights. So if anyone wants them for free, you pay shipping and I will send them 15 packages.

 

[zipper]

Just ordered the last cable to complete the install, a Micro C devicenet to seatalk adapter. Connects the wind instrument information to the Axiom 9 RV. Finished the power/ground runs yesterday. Installed a 20a ckt to the NavPod terminating at a BlueSea 6ckt. +/- fuse panel mounted in the NavPod, just in case I need additional accessories in the future there. I did find the plug for the RV-200 sonar too big to run thru the 1 1/4" pedestal guard, turn a sharp 90°, and exit thru a 1" hole into the NavPod. So I will be cutting/resplicing the "extender cable" I purchased, not the main cable from the transducer, in case I screw it up. But it looks doable as long as I can keep the shielding intact. That will complete the install. Temporarily connected the extender cable yesterday, bypassing the pedestal guard, and turned on the instruments. Here are a few pics. of the install. Keep in mind that the sonar pics. will not show much, when you are sitting "on the hard." Yes, she has been pulled for the season. With a 6'8" draft, low water levels, a moderate drought all spring/summer and a high sandbar between the lift and the slip, that has kept us on the craddle. The positive side is, it is much easier to work on. And with only a few weeks left in the season, 40° last night, the Yamaha will fill our "Boating Options".



So here is a screen shot from the web cam of where she will set until spring. Yes, that is her front and center, in the craddle.


Tune in sometime, you might see me working on her. http://173.14.161.229:3385/appletvid.html , just tap cancel when prompted to download and the live feed appears.

P.S. I will be removing the NavPod cover with instruments, the folding wheel and auto pilot drive for the winter, everything is quick disconnect. This has been a great journey, I have learned a "boatload" about sailing and sailboats in the last year. I would highly recommend to anyone.

 

[zipper]

Update: The Nav. Instrument mods. are finished. That completes the install of the NavPod with Axiom 9RV, I60 wind instruments and the EV-100 auto pilot. The last part of the install was to find a way to fish the RV transducer plug ~1" dia, 3" long up the new binnacle guard and turn 90° thru a 1" dia into the NavPod and to the Axiom, without weakening the binnacle guard with a larger or elongated hole. So, after much contemplation, I decided to cut the $75 24 wire 25' RV extender cable I bought, not the cable from the $700 transducer. Not recommended by the manufacturer, but to achieve the install I wanted, it was the last resort. Here are some pics. of the dissection, cable prep before install and soldering it all back together sucessfully. WARNING: PIC. HEAVY





Brought the two ends/pieces to the boat and ran the cable from the NavPod, down the guard terminating at the end of the main cable. Set up a soldering jig/vise and started putting the cable back together.





Wrapped it all back up, plugged it in and saw good stuff on the Axiom 9.

The boat is on the hard and the image is the same that it was before I cut the cable.

On to the next project.

 

[PEARCE]

@zipper the things we do for our toys! That is some tedious soldering you have going on there. Impressive.

 

[swatski]

@zipper I love your holding tool! SO clever.

Still - that is a LOT of soldering! I'd probably give up after exposing the shield - and wrap it up right back! lol.

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[zipper]

@PEARCE @swatski Yes it was more tedious than I thought 24 wires would be. It went pretty well and the homemade jig/vise worked good. The wife's, ahem, my, the reading glasses were very helpful with sorting out the color codes of each ~30ga. wire/twisted pair. I did underestimate the final diameter of the bundle and put on the outer jacket heat shrink from one side. I could not slide the heat shrink across to the other side, that is why there is ugly black electrical tape on half of the splice. Will fix when I get a larger piece of heat shrink. I really like the clean install, no wires/cables visible. All concealed in the S.S. binnacle guard.

 

[2kwik4u]

I used to do Telecom phone splicing in a previous career. The only way to get bundles over about 5-10 wires is to start "staggering" the lengths on each end. Otherwise you end up with a knot of sorts where all the splices are.

Don't feel bad about the black tape either, AT&T actually has a spec and procedure for field spliced wires to be wrapped in electrical tape as an acceptable solution for weatherproofing!!

Overall, the final result is well worth your efforts. Such a neat, clean installation!

 

[zipper]

I used to do Telecom phone splicing in a previous career. The only way to get bundles over about 5-10 wires is to start "staggering" the lengths on each end. Otherwise you end up with a knot of sorts where all the splices are.

Don't feel bad about the black tape either, AT&T actually has a spec and procedure for field spliced wires to be wrapped in electrical tape as an acceptable solution for weatherproofing!!

Overall, the final result is well worth your efforts. Such a neat, clean installation!

I had thought about staggering the soldering joints, but I did not want to open up any more of the mylar shielding. I don't mind the small bump in the cable, I just wish I had put 5/8" heat shrink on the jacket and not the 1/2" I did. Now I need to find a piece big enough to slip over the 1" plug that will shrink down to a half inch or less.

 

[zipper]

Ordered a couple of pieces of marine plywood to redo the cabin sole (floor). The original was Mahogany with a black stripe. Somewhere in her lifetime, someone replaced 2 floor panels, at the bottom of the companion way stairs in the galley area, with a mismatching teak with a black stripe.


Both floors showed wear and we did not like the mismatch. We have been playing around with samples and we decided to lighten it up a little bit and use a Cherry with a Holly stripe. The Mahogany was dark and we could not find a source for it. The Cherry is good because I can match it with wood I process from the farm to use as trim pieces around the cabin. It will darken some and take on a more reddish color over time.


Now to remove the floor boards from the boat and bring them home to use as a template and cut out and finish the pieces from these (2) 4 x 10' pieces of 12mm marine plywood over the winter.


We also ordered the teak strips to redo the cockpit area, being made at a local shop. More on that later.

 

[Bennie]

That's going to look great!
I'm with you on lightening up the interior. I've never understood why some of the older monohauls were born with such a dark cabin. That cherry will age beautifully.