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Wiring and Battery Addition

@marcham I read the article. There will be a 10 amp fuse on it tomorrow. Thanks for info, really really appreciate it.
 
You need CJS fins. At WOT it tracks straight, no slop. When you turn it grabs good.
 
You need CJS fins. At WOT it tracks straight, no slop. When you turn it grabs good.
[/QUOTE

I may go that direction. I’ve only been out twice. Going to give it some more time. Thanks
 




I got a couple of questions for you.

1 - The Blue Sea System Cover you got on this list seems to be for the Blue Sea System 2105/2126 which is the MaxiBus 250A BusBar. But instead you have on the list the 100A MiniBus Bar. Is there a mistype somewhere here or are you actually using the 250a cover thats meant for the MaxiBus 250A on your 100A MiniBus Bar?

2 - You are using the Blue Sea Systems 6 Circuit Blade Fuse Block With Negative Bus which its pretty cool, but you are actually mounting this unit at the battery panel instead of the back of the helm. I would think it would probably be a cleaner install at the back of the helm (less cables going to the battery panel for accessories) unless you doing that cause its cheaper than to run 1/0 AWG cables for power and negative from the battery panel to the back of the helm?

Im trying to use your same setup as you so all the help its appreciate it. Thanks
 
@dv_damian57

I have the 150amp buss bars, for both positive and negative and the cover fits perfect. Amazon link i guess now points to all of them and you select your size.

I have two fuse blocks, one under the helm and one next two the switch, that way i can run different accessories from either location. They are both the exact same.
 
Nice work!!! my dual setup (actually I run 2 batteries in parallel on each string) is similar with one switch (0,1,2,1&2) and one main 12VDC bus with 3 x 20A thermal auto resets for the Boat and Aux A & B power panels and a 30A manual for the trim tab actuator. motors charge to the main DC Bus after the switch and I have 2 x 7.5W solar panels wired directly to each battery string :)
 
Those Inline Circuit Breakers look trick. I didn't see them when I went looking and set up my Dual Seas Add-A-Battery system but I did put everything on a removable module (very handy). Also used the Blue Seas Electrical Terminal, installed up in the dash area to connect the accessories. Both Blue Seas Products have been going strong 2 years on.

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I got a couple of questions for you.

1 - The Blue Sea System Cover you got on this list seems to be for the Blue Sea System 2105/2126 which is the MaxiBus 250A BusBar. But instead you have on the list the 100A MiniBus Bar. Is there a mistype somewhere here or are you actually using the 250a cover thats meant for the MaxiBus 250A on your 100A MiniBus Bar?

2 - You are using the Blue Sea Systems 6 Circuit Blade Fuse Block With Negative Bus which its pretty cool, but you are actually mounting this unit at the battery panel instead of the back of the helm. I would think it would probably be a cleaner install at the back of the helm (less cables going to the battery panel for accessories) unless you doing that cause its cheaper than to run 1/0 AWG cables for power and negative from the battery panel to the back of the helm?

Im trying to use your same setup as you so all the help its appreciate it. Thanks
I had the same questions for @HangOutdoors, and the covers fit either BusBar. My set up is basically the same under the helm as well. He helped me immensely, and trust me, "He knows what he's talking about". ?
 

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@HangOutdoors just curious where you got your PVC sheeting at for this project?
 
Also Starboard is different than some of the PVC open cell board. All boards are not created equal.
 

I dunno if the size will work, but if you're a member of Sam's Club, they've got these cutting boards that will save quite a bit, and will accomplish the same thing. I used two of these to fab up a riser for my cleanout hatch, they can be machined with any woodworking tools

 
I dunno if the size will work, but if you're a member of Sam's Club, they've got these cutting boards that will save quite a bit, and will accomplish the same thing. I used two of these to fab up a riser for my cleanout hatch, they can be machined with any woodworking tools

Interesting!! Thanks
 
I dunno if the size will work, but if you're a member of Sam's Club, they've got these cutting boards that will save quite a bit, and will accomplish the same thing. I used two of these to fab up a riser for my cleanout hatch, they can be machined with any woodworking tools

I thought about the cutting boards too, but only after I spent like $70 for a 12" x 24" 1/2" piece of starboard at West Marine. (Taco Marine)
 
Cutting Board is usually thinner as well. I like the texture of the starboard and it grips the SS Screws quite well.

Also when I was looking, I read that UV can destroy a cutting board, where it won't with the Starboard. there may also be issues with warping/creep with heat. I guess it would all depend on the exact materials they are made of
 

Great looking setup. What gauge wire did you use from the battery to the switch/ACR/buss bars? I have this same switch/acr but haven't installed yet. New to this and learning before I tackle it. I've bought the battery, switch and am now looking at cable. Had some 1/0 cables made at 2' each but they seam like overkill.

Also, my plan is to run my amp to the secondary (house) battery, would I need to find the head unit power and run that to the house battery as well? Lastly, I also have a NOCO 10 amp (5 amp per bank) charger I plan on installing and plugging up after each weekend at the house. This wouldn't interfere with the switch/ACR setup would it? The switch would be off as soon as leave the water.

There are a lot of extra fuses I wasn't accounting for. Start isolation being one of them and the ground from the ACR being the other.
 

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Great looking setup. What gauge wire did you use from the battery to the switch/ACR/buss bars? I have this same switch/acr but haven't installed yet. New to this and learning before I tackle it. I've bought the battery, switch and am now looking at cable. Had some 1/0 cables made at 2' each but they seam like overkill.

Also, my plan is to run my amp to the secondary (house) battery, would I need to find the head unit power and run that to the house battery as well? Lastly, I also have a NOCO 10 amp (5 amp per bank) charger I plan on installing and plugging up after each weekend at the house. This wouldn't interfere with the switch/ACR setup would it? The switch would be off as soon as leave the water.

There are a lot of extra fuses I wasn't accounting for. Start isolation being one of them and the ground from the ACR being the other.

I used 4ga. I was at west marine and their guy schooled me up a bit. Using a chart and a run that small with max load of 100A, you see my breakers, 4AWG is what it is rated for. Anything more doesn't do anything. I had some 1/0 in my hand and he took it from me and told me what to get looking at my diagram. Really you should size your wire according to your draw and length and breakers.

Yes you would make sure you run it to the house battery.

With your charger, wire it directly to each battery. I have a 4 bank and each bank goes directly to a battery. I have 4 batteries, Starter-Wet, House AGM TPPL, and Two LiFePo4's for the trolling motor. Technically you could wire them to pole on the switch, where each battery connects on either side. One each side.

If you are growing your electrical in engine compartment, I would suggest the buses. You can see I put two in. One for the positive House and one for all negatives, Makes it cleaner but not necessary. Also it helps with additions down the road, I hate to take away and reconfigure stuff. I like to build on top and move forward.

If there is anything I can answer for you don't hesitate to ask. This forum was instrumental in me learning about everything.
 
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