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Yamaha AR192 Low Top Speed

UPDATE: I have added 1 can Seafoam to the fuel and replaced the spark plugs. In addition, I checked the supercharger clutch (all looks well there, DOESNT spin freely both ways), and checked the air-filter which looks pretty clean.

My hope is this weekend when I take it out that 91 fuel and new plugs will give me the extra RPMs and MPH. Last thing I wanted to check is if there is a possibility the throttle cable is stretched and thus not full going WOT even when the lever is all the way down.
 
UPDATE: I have added 1 can Seafoam to the fuel and replaced the spark plugs. In addition, I checked the supercharger clutch (all looks well there, DOESNT spin freely both ways), and checked the air-filter which looks pretty clean.

My hope is this weekend when I take it out that 91 fuel and new plugs will give me the extra RPMs and MPH. Last thing I wanted to check is if there is a possibility the throttle cable is stretched and thus not full going WOT even when the lever is all the way down.

The throttle cable is definitely something to check, just put the throttle lever in full, pop the engine hatch and see if the little wheel has any more throw to it.. easey peasey.

Do feel the air filter element to see if it is oily…
 
in light of some recent problems surfacing lately I would closely check the exhaust system for damage or exhaust leaks in the engine compartment.
 
Hey Guys! I really appreciate the advice, Im going to check the throttle cable tonight. I really want to upgrade the intercooler too while Im at it, are you guys able to tell if this is the proper intercooler. I believe its correct but wanted to double check with more experienced owners here.

 
If you have concerns about proper cooling you could pull the filter block off of the jet pump to make sure it is in good shape and there is no debris in there.
 
Hey Guys! I really appreciate the advice, Im going to check the throttle cable tonight. I really want to upgrade the intercooler too while Im at it, are you guys able to tell if this is the proper intercooler. I believe its correct but wanted to double check with more experienced owners here.

That is the one you want. It has two reliefs on top, so you'll have to either drill a new hole on side of boat for second pisser, or get a Y connection and connect both the factory one. I just did a Y for now.

I also added a dedicated cooling line from the pump directly to the intercooler, so that its not sharing water from the engine cooling.

Size difference
 

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Alright guys. I got the boat out yesterday mind you I changed the plugs, airfilter was clean, checked the super charger, seafoam, and put fresh gas in. Best I did was 34 mph and top rpm of 6800.

Load: 5 small kids (combined 150 pounds), wife is 90 pounds, I'm 150 so really that is light on people. Granted I had a full tank but still.

I ordered an intercooler and ribbon delete piece. Im going to consider a ECU flash but still, if it still doesn't get over 40mph I think I'm going to sell it. Just disappointed..

My buddy has a 27ft bayliner with 200hp outboard and it smokes me with all kinds of load on it. Grrrrr...
 
Jet drives don't care how much load it has and it certainly wouldn't impact your RPM. The ribbon delete wouldn't help you and the ECU flash wouldn't either. Maybe the intercooler.. Did you inspect that you have good water flow in the cooling system? You can look at the pisser when driving to see if its flowing well. Its a possibility that the previous owner didn't flush the motor well or idled in shallow water. I think those intercoolers can load up with sediment and that would cause massive heat soak.

You should be running 87 octane but its unlikely to impact your RPM and if it did, it would likely be negligent.
Are you sure the air filter didn't have any oil on it? You can remove the air filter for testing purposes. I've ran 150 hours and counting without a filter.
Did you inspect the spark plugs to ensure the gap wasn't damaged, like if any were dropped?
Did you inspect the pump for anything that would cause cavitation? Look for damage, potential air voids, excessive gap between the impeller and housing.

EDIT: What elevation are you? I've heard this impacts performance.
 
Alright guys. I got the boat out yesterday mind you I changed the plugs, airfilter was clean, checked the super charger, seafoam, and put fresh gas in. Best I did was 34 mph and top rpm of 6800.

Load: 5 small kids (combined 150 pounds), wife is 90 pounds, I'm 150 so really that is light on people. Granted I had a full tank but still.

I ordered an intercooler and ribbon delete piece. Im going to consider a ECU flash but still, if it still doesn't get over 40mph I think I'm going to sell it. Just disappointed..

My buddy has a 27ft bayliner with 200hp outboard and it smokes me with all kinds of load on it. Grrrrr...


While I do not know these engines packages all that well.. IMHO you have some sort of issue going on that is keeping your engine from attaining rated rpm. It should get closer to the rated rpm in stock trim.

In my experience running at high altitude, I needed a lower pitched impeller which allowed me to get up to rated rpm, which increased my top end speed by roughly 8mph.

Having said that some thing is wrong that your motor is not revving closer to rated rpm, and it should be much higher at your altitude of 500’ msl. With a jet, once you get going the engine and pump should be revving to rated rpm in stock trim, which would be its maximum thrust. So, your engine / pump is producing X amount of thrust, which would push the boat to say 40mph, as you add weight to the boat the required thrust to go say 40mph is increased so the maximum thrust is not capable of pushing the boat that fast since you added more drag.

Fun fact: Jet pumps require exponentially more power to go from say 6000 rpm to 7000 rpm, infact the power requirement to do so is probably somewhere near double the power. The only data I’ve seen on this was for a Berkley Jet, to turn that pump at 5000 rpm takes 350 hp, to raise that to 6000 rpm it takes 700 hp.

I think you need to make sure that all of the stock systems on your 9 year old boat are working properly before you start throwing money / parts at it. You will be royally pissed off if you do that and nothing changes. Then the new owner you sell it to may find something simple and solve those issues with all the zoot aftermarket products you put on it and have a little hot rod.

-You mentioned low hours in your previous post… how many hours is “low hours”?
-Does the boat start easily from cold and hot?
-How is the water flow through out of the water outlet for the intercooler?
-Did you check the cable actuated throttle to make sure that at full throttle it is to the stops?
-Do you have a really good stream of water from all of the pilot water outlets?
-Are the intercooler water lines pinched or otherwise constricted?
-Is the intercooler full of crap? Maybe it needs to be flushed out?
-Have you checked the main water intake screen located on the jet pump? This could inhibit total cooling water flow to the engine if the screen is blocked or the cavity it its full of crap.
-Not sure on your year model boat, but you need to verify that the electronically controlled throttle valve is opening all the way.

Start with the simplest things you can do. I’ve learned the hard way over the years that this is the way to do.

The boat is a 13’ so there could be some other issues at play here, first one I can think of is low fuel pressure and or a clogged fuel filter and or clogged / dirty fuel injectors thus limiting the total fuel delivered and loss of top end power. On my boat there are little screens on the inlets of the fuel injectors, I think, that can be cleaned. The cheapest and easiest thing to do would be to run a quality cleaner through the fuel system by adding it and burning a tank of fuel, like Techron. I’m not a fan of seafoam and I think its cleaning attributes are dubious at best, while I know from experience that Techron works, and works well for gummed up fuel systems. Get a bottle of Techron fuel injector cleaner / fuel system cleaner and run a double dose through a full tank of gas and see if that nets you any increase in rpm’s. Don’t leave the double dose in there for an extended period of time, run the tank then refill and run the engine some more to get that high concentration out of the fuel system. You don’t have to run WOT while you are doing it.. take your beautiful wife and kids and just go for a pleasant cruise, stop and have lunch, fish for a bit, let the kiddos swim around, I’m betting your wife and kids don’t care about how fast your buddy with the bayliner can go, you have a swim deck and a very bitchen boat! Enjoy your boat.

Next would be check the fuel filter, then check the fuel injectors, after that check the fuel pressure.

Hope that helps.
 
While I do not know these engines packages all that well.. IMHO you have some sort of issue going on that is keeping your engine from attaining rated rpm. It should get closer to the rated rpm in stock trim.

In my experience running at high altitude, I needed a lower pitched impeller which allowed me to get up to rated rpm, which increased my top end speed by roughly 8mph.

Having said that some thing is wrong that your motor is not revving closer to rated rpm, and it should be much higher at your altitude of 500’ msl. With a jet, once you get going the engine and pump should be revving to rated rpm in stock trim, which would be its maximum thrust. So, your engine / pump is producing X amount of thrust, which would push the boat to say 40mph, as you add weight to the boat the required thrust to go say 40mph is increased so the maximum thrust is not capable of pushing the boat that fast since you added more drag.

Fun fact: Jet pumps require exponentially more power to go from say 6000 rpm to 7000 rpm, infact the power requirement to do so is probably somewhere near double the power. The only data I’ve seen on this was for a Berkley Jet, to turn that pump at 5000 rpm takes 350 hp, to raise that to 6000 rpm it takes 700 hp.

I think you need to make sure that all of the stock systems on your 9 year old boat are working properly before you start throwing money / parts at it. You will be royally pissed off if you do that and nothing changes. Then the new owner you sell it to may find something simple and solve those issues with all the zoot aftermarket products you put on it and have a little hot rod.

-You mentioned low hours in your previous post… how many hours is “low hours”?
-Does the boat start easily from cold and hot?
-How is the water flow through out of the water outlet for the intercooler?
-Did you check the cable actuated throttle to make sure that at full throttle it is to the stops?
-Do you have a really good stream of water from all of the pilot water outlets?
-Are the intercooler water lines pinched or otherwise constricted?
-Is the intercooler full of crap? Maybe it needs to be flushed out?
-Have you checked the main water intake screen located on the jet pump? This could inhibit total cooling water flow to the engine if the screen is blocked or the cavity it its full of crap.
-Not sure on your year model boat, but you need to verify that the electronically controlled throttle valve is opening all the way.

Start with the simplest things you can do. I’ve learned the hard way over the years that this is the way to do.

The boat is a 13’ so there could be some other issues at play here, first one I can think of is low fuel pressure and or a clogged fuel filter and or clogged / dirty fuel injectors thus limiting the total fuel delivered and loss of top end power. On my boat there are little screens on the inlets of the fuel injectors, I think, that can be cleaned. The cheapest and easiest thing to do would be to run a quality cleaner through the fuel system by adding it and burning a tank of fuel, like Techron. I’m not a fan of seafoam and I think its cleaning attributes are dubious at best, while I know from experience that Techron works, and works well for gummed up fuel systems. Get a bottle of Techron fuel injector cleaner / fuel system cleaner and run a double dose through a full tank of gas and see if that nets you any increase in rpm’s. Don’t leave the double dose in there for an extended period of time, run the tank then refill and run the engine some more to get that high concentration out of the fuel system. You don’t have to run WOT while you are doing it.. take your beautiful wife and kids and just go for a pleasant cruise, stop and have lunch, fish for a bit, let the kiddos swim around, I’m betting your wife and kids don’t care about how fast your buddy with the bayliner can go, you have a swim deck and a very bitchen boat! Enjoy your boat.

Next would be check the fuel filter, then check the fuel injectors, after that check the fuel pressure.

Hope that helps.

I went down the route of low RPM's when I bought my AR192 second hand. The fuel filter is on the pump and I pulled it to inspect it.. It's a big mesh screen on the bottom of the pump and is unlikely to be clogged. IMO it would be the last thing that I would check.
 
I went down the route of low RPM's when I bought my AR192 second hand. The fuel filter is on the pump and I pulled it to inspect it.. It's a big mesh screen on the bottom of the pump and is unlikely to be clogged. IMO it would be the last thing that I would check.

Right on… just trying to cover all the bases.. sometimes the simplest weirdest things can cause dramas…
 
Jet drives don't care how much load it has and it certainly wouldn't impact your RPM. The ribbon delete wouldn't help you and the ECU flash wouldn't either. Maybe the intercooler.. Did you inspect that you have good water flow in the cooling system? You can look at the pisser when driving to see if its flowing well. Its a possibility that the previous owner didn't flush the motor well or idled in shallow water. I think those intercoolers can load up with sediment and that would cause massive heat soak.

You should be running 87 octane but its unlikely to impact your RPM and if it did, it would likely be negligent.
Are you sure the air filter didn't have any oil on it? You can remove the air filter for testing purposes. I've ran 150 hours and counting without a filter.
Did you inspect the spark plugs to ensure the gap wasn't damaged, like if any were dropped?
Did you inspect the pump for anything that would cause cavitation? Look for damage, potential air voids, excessive gap between the impeller and housing.

EDIT: What elevation are you? I've heard this impacts performance.

So this weekend we were still around the 500 ft range for elevation. Plugs looked fine when i pulled them and looked like proper burn meaning no excess oil fouling or white like running to hott. They did appear old so I replaced with new ones.

I need go check the pump a little more aggressively. It doesn't appear to have any leaks or air gaps that I can see. Airfilter did appear to have any oil at all, if anything a little dust between the grooves.

I did run a full chevron 91 premium ans seaform through it, didn't seem to change anything I'll run 87 next time.

I'm not sure how to really test the intercooler but I do know it will be replaced next week once the SVHO one shows up. Pissers looks good from what I can tell. Steady stream flow.

I think the real issue is the rpms it was actually at 6500 all day. I'd imagine an extra 1k rpm would name all the difference to get back to stock levels.
 
While I do not know these engines packages all that well.. IMHO you have some sort of issue going on that is keeping your engine from attaining rated rpm. It should get closer to the rated rpm in stock trim.

In my experience running at high altitude, I needed a lower pitched impeller which allowed me to get up to rated rpm, which increased my top end speed by roughly 8mph.

Having said that some thing is wrong that your motor is not revving closer to rated rpm, and it should be much higher at your altitude of 500’ msl. With a jet, once you get going the engine and pump should be revving to rated rpm in stock trim, which would be its maximum thrust. So, your engine / pump is producing X amount of thrust, which would push the boat to say 40mph, as you add weight to the boat the required thrust to go say 40mph is increased so the maximum thrust is not capable of pushing the boat that fast since you added more drag.

Fun fact: Jet pumps require exponentially more power to go from say 6000 rpm to 7000 rpm, infact the power requirement to do so is probably somewhere near double the power. The only data I’ve seen on this was for a Berkley Jet, to turn that pump at 5000 rpm takes 350 hp, to raise that to 6000 rpm it takes 700 hp.

I think you need to make sure that all of the stock systems on your 9 year old boat are working properly before you start throwing money / parts at it. You will be royally pissed off if you do that and nothing changes. Then the new owner you sell it to may find something simple and solve those issues with all the zoot aftermarket products you put on it and have a little hot rod.

-You mentioned low hours in your previous post… how many hours is “low hours”?
-Does the boat start easily from cold and hot?
-How is the water flow through out of the water outlet for the intercooler?
-Did you check the cable actuated throttle to make sure that at full throttle it is to the stops?
-Do you have a really good stream of water from all of the pilot water outlets?
-Are the intercooler water lines pinched or otherwise constricted?
-Is the intercooler full of crap? Maybe it needs to be flushed out?
-Have you checked the main water intake screen located on the jet pump? This could inhibit total cooling water flow to the engine if the screen is blocked or the cavity it its full of crap.
-Not sure on your year model boat, but you need to verify that the electronically controlled throttle valve is opening all the way.

Start with the simplest things you can do. I’ve learned the hard way over the years that this is the way to do.

The boat is a 13’ so there could be some other issues at play here, first one I can think of is low fuel pressure and or a clogged fuel filter and or clogged / dirty fuel injectors thus limiting the total fuel delivered and loss of top end power. On my boat there are little screens on the inlets of the fuel injectors, I think, that can be cleaned. The cheapest and easiest thing to do would be to run a quality cleaner through the fuel system by adding it and burning a tank of fuel, like Techron. I’m not a fan of seafoam and I think its cleaning attributes are dubious at best, while I know from experience that Techron works, and works well for gummed up fuel systems. Get a bottle of Techron fuel injector cleaner / fuel system cleaner and run a double dose through a full tank of gas and see if that nets you any increase in rpm’s. Don’t leave the double dose in there for an extended period of time, run the tank then refill and run the engine some more to get that high concentration out of the fuel system. You don’t have to run WOT while you are doing it.. take your beautiful wife and kids and just go for a pleasant cruise, stop and have lunch, fish for a bit, let the kiddos swim around, I’m betting your wife and kids don’t care about how fast your buddy with the bayliner can go, you have a swim deck and a very bitchen boat! Enjoy your boat.

Next would be check the fuel filter, then check the fuel injectors, after that check the fuel pressure.

Hope that helps.
Thanks for this lots of good nuggets in here. I did run chevron premium all weekend just for good measure, I will get rhe techron bittle next. It's not really that I want to hot rod the boat I just feel like it's way under performing from stock : /

This 1k extra rpm would make all the difference I bet. It's actually running around 6500, maybe 6800 tight off a cool motor.

The fuel filter is intersting I will have to see how to check that as well as the pressure.

Intercooler will be replaced likely next week once the SVHO one shows up. Hoping if it's problems with the current intercooler it may be resolved with this new one.

Throttle cable appeared to me at Max capacity. There was maybe a millimeter left in adjustment, couldn't imagine that would make the difference but I will tighten it up ever so slightly.

The motor feels like it's doing what its suppose too it just seems like something it holding it back from that extra RPM. I'm almost certain I'd see low 40 mph with rhe extra rpms. The difference from 5k-6k and 6k-6500k rpm is steep increases in MPH.

I appreciate you guys giving me things to look at.
 
I went down the route of low RPM's when I bought my AR192 second hand. The fuel filter is on the pump and I pulled it to inspect it.. It's a big mesh screen on the bottom of the pump and is unlikely to be clogged. IMO it would be the last thing that I would check.
Also, what was the cause of low RPMs on your unit?
 
Update: went to check the oil level and noticed the oil smelt heavily like fuel. Also it was pretty light in appearance, i would have expected a thicker viscosity and it looks a little light.

Going to test the ignition on the cylinders to see if one cylinder isn't rubbing
 
Also, what was the cause of low RPMs on your unit?

Previous owner incorrectly fogged the motor and the filter had fogging oil on it.

Update: went to check the oil level and noticed the oil smelt heavily like fuel. Also it was pretty light in appearance, i would have expected a thicker viscosity and it looks a little light.

Going to test the ignition on the cylinders to see if one cylinder isn't rubbing

It's hard to make a comment without smelling it, but a smell "heavily like fuel" sounds like you're on to something. I can think of 2 scenarios, 1. faulty injector leaking fuel or 2. a cylinder isn't firing. You can pull the plugs again and see if 1 looks different from the others. Then use a spark tester on each ignition coil.
 
Previous owner incorrectly fogged the motor and the filter had fogging oil on it.



It's hard to make a comment without smelling it, but a smell "heavily like fuel" sounds like you're on to something. I can think of 2 scenarios, 1. faulty injector leaking fuel or 2. a cylinder isn't firing. You can pull the plugs again and see if 1 looks different from the others. Then use a spark tester on each ignition coil.
It looked very light in color and just didn't have that thicker oil look to it. I kind of doubt the last owner did a full oil change just to then sell his boat. And the smell seemed pretty intense even with a plugged up nose.

I ran the engine and pulled the ignition coil every one I did from 1- 4 dramatically changed the tone of the engine meaning it appears to be firing all cylinders.

I wonder how I can test the injectors? Is there something I can hook into it to see if it's constantly running?
 
It looked very light in color and just didn't have that thicker oil look to it. I kind of doubt the last owner did a full oil change just to then sell his boat. And the smell seemed pretty intense even with a plugged up nose.

I ran the engine and pulled the ignition coil every one I did from 1- 4 dramatically changed the tone of the engine meaning it appears to be firing all cylinders.

I wonder how I can test the injectors? Is there something I can hook into it to see if it's constantly running?

Do you have a picture of this oil? It doesn't look milky, right?
 
Not milky, but definitely thin and very light. Also it appears the "level" is higher than the two holes. It's almost hard to indicate where the oil level is at really but I'm almost certain it's higher than both holes indicating there might be fuel in there. Looks way to clean imo.

My thought is I either take it to the dealer or look to purchase one of the YDIS code readers. To see if there is something going on with the injectors.
 
Here is the oil wiped from the dipstick.
 

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