Removing 3M 5200 and my steering cable

[4x15mph]

I am trying to push my steering cable through the hull but it is either corroded or it is on their with some 5200 on the inner hull fitting. I have tried to hammer the fitting through with no luck.

How do you take this wicked (curse, another curse) off? Any ideas for getting this piece through?

Here is a pic from the outside (picture #1) which has the nut removed. The other pic is from the inside and that nut that you see is jammed up inside the fiberglass. I can't get to it although I may cut the cable on that side and use the O2 sensor socket that I picked up from Autozone to see if I can get any grip on that nut. Loosening the nut will not do anything about letting the fitting come through but maybe it would free up whatever is seized before the nut turns.

Please help with ideas. Are there solvents that really work with 3M 5200 (if that is even what is on here)? I have soaked this with pB blaster for the last 3 days

 

[Murf'n'surf]

Are you sure that there is not a nut further down the threads on the outside (pic 1)?

 

[4x15mph]

Yes, no other nut on the outside. Thank you for double checking. The threads now go directly through the jet mounting plate (if that is what you call it)

 

[Glassman]

Yes, no other nut on the outside. Thank you for double checking. The threads now go directly through the jet mounting plate (if that is what you call it)

If the threads go into the plate it might just be threaded INTO the plate. Try spinning the cable to back out the threads.

 

[Julian]

I've not done the steering cable....does a schematic help at all....

 

[4x15mph]

@Julian , thanks for sending the schematic. I do have that and they are always pretty helpful. Unfortunately, this is an issue of it being "stuck".

@Glassman , good thinking although in my boat, there are no threads on the ride plate. I spoke to @treeskier who has done this and the cable feeds thru the hull w/o threads. I wish...

 

[Murf'n'surf]

What happens when you pull from the inside?do you have enough leverage?

If you are trying to hammer it on the outside, inthinknyou need to cut the cable off just forward of that rubber boot. That way, the hammer force will not be wasted on the flexible portion.

 

[treeskier]

Yeah there are no threads other than the nuts. I know you tried the hammer and block of wood on the outside. How about a thin putty knife on the inside between the transom wall and the washer (this is probably where the 3M 5200 is). Then gently tap the putty knife with a hammer to break the seal... So to speak. If that doesn't work you may need to PM steve45.

 

[4x15mph]

@Murf'n'surf , I grabbed an angle grinder and will try that. @treeskier , if this doesn't work, I will definitely reach out to Steve45 by PM.

 

[4x15mph]

Success!!! Thank you @treeskier , @Murf'n'surf , @Julian , and @Glassman, and @Unreal Yammi for all of the help! Really great

Here was what worked:
1) sliced the cable on the outside of the hull like murf suggested as well as on the inside of the bilge area. I used a Harbor Freight 4 1/2" Angle Grinder that I picked up for $24. It's a machine and walked right through the cable.
2) I used a mirror to help me see and pull away all of the caulk on the cable that was on the inside of the hull. Treeskier talked about using a putty knife so with the mirror, I was able to see the few areas that could stand a little more scraping. Without the mirror, I was not getting to all of the pieces although as it turned out the caulk was not 5200 and it was not the culprit for holding up the cable. What did help was that with the caulk completely off all areas, I was able to get PB blaster into the seized area. It actually started to come out the other side. Bonus
3) I found an old plumbers wrench and I dissassembled it so that I could use the metal handle to bang into the cable housing from the outside of the boat. At the same time, I think I also stopped caring about "what-if" so I hit it with some heavy blows.

Here are some pictures. The last one is the most important.

The middle piece is what I used to bang against the cable along with the sledge.


This is what the cable looked like. You can see the white silicone which is the part that was being held up.



This is the reward:

 

[txav8r]

I think maybe I understand what happened. If you had "Harpoon'ed" that puppy early on, it might have been a 2 or 3 beer job!

 

[treeskier]

Nice job. I was going to suggest a metal object to replace the wooden block and a bigger hammer it looks like you went that way on your own. Now comes the fun part getting the new cable "around the corner" hopefully that will go smoother. When do you expect your cables.

 

[CrankyGypsy]

I see you resolved this. but I have another option if someone else encounters this:

1. put the outer nut back on, but only a few threads.
2. add a fender washer if necessary (depends on diameter of your pipe...)
3. place a long pipe over the end of the cable and against the nut/washer.
4. hit the end of the pipe to drive the cable back, breaking the corrosion between the cable and plate.

 

[4x15mph]

@treeskier - all parts are due here this Friday by EOB. I used Partspak for this order and so far, so good as far as turnaround and price.

@CrankyGypsy , those are good ideas. I started by using impact sockets but they were not long enough to get a good sledge hammer strike. Your idea of a pipe and the washer would have definitely worked.

 

[Julian]

I'm going to add this thread to the cable replacement FAQ!

@4x15mph Glad you got it out!

 

[Ronnie]

I was thinking of cutting the nut off with a dremel.

 

[Glassman]

Glad to hear it worked out for you! You earned that Harpoon!

 

[4x15mph]

@Ronnie , getting the outside nut off isn't the problem. You remove that with an O2 sensor removal socket that you can rent from autozone. The problem comes in if the cable is "stuck" to the thru-hull hole. Mine was on their real solid but you can do as I described and it comes out.

 

[rkluck]

Great ideas. I will keep these in mind for down the road.

 

[Seadeals]

As suggested above, I put the nut back on and used a piece of electrical conduit I had around to hammer it through. It only took three taps to break it loose.