What do these two holes go to?

[Tylenator]

Hi all! First Yamaha. First post. I brought a 2020 210 FSH Sport home last week and when underway water is coming in both of the holes (pictured) in the front of the front floor locker. I also have a picture of the floor locker I'm referring to in case I have any terminology wrong.

I Googled my heart out and search on the forum and can't find anything about these two holes. Where do they go? Or I guess, where is the water coming from that they're so generously dropping off?

I did find the main post that has a list of all the leaks and didn't see anything about these holes.

Thanks!

 

[MilesPrower]

Dang, someone did a 5h!tty job of drilling holes through your boat before you picked it up.

Is there anything in the anchor locker that corresponds to those holes?

And speaking of the anchor locker — that locker's drain hole does a great job of sucking in water when you're moving forward through waves. So maybe the water that ends up in your anchor locker is making its way through those holes.

 

[zipper]

Looks like someone drilled 4 holes. Two more holes up behind the deck/hull adhesive. Maybe tried to mount something in the anchor locker and then found they could not.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Here’s a great thread on the anchor locker drain see my posts #118 & #125.
Replaced my anchor locker drain fitting due to leaks

I’ll have a look at my bucket locker today just to make sure there aren’t any similar holes but I don’t think there are.

More than likely as @zipper and @MilesPrower suggested, someone drilled holes in the anchor locker into the bucket locker, my guess would be to mount a windlass??? And the height of the anchor locker drain is just above the water line



so water is constantly flowing in and out of the anchor locker that’s why I have that plug in the drain to keep water from flowing in and keeping my rode wet.

 

[Tylenator]

Looks like someone drilled 4 holes. Two more holes up behind the deck/hull adhesive. Maybe tried to mount something in the anchor locker and then found they could not.

Wow, good catch. I didn't even notice that.

 

[Tylenator]

Is there anything in the anchor locker that corresponds to those holes?

Nope, just emptied the locker and felt around to confirm.

I’ll have a look at my bucket locker today just to make sure there aren’t any similar holes but I don’t think there are.

Yes, please check if you don't mind. I'm curious if they're all like this or if it's just mine.

 

[Tylenator]

Well i threw the garden hose in the anchor locker and a few minutes later water started trickling in the front floor locker via those two drilled mystery holes. So confirmed, it's the infamous anchor locker leak... which is weird because my fitting goes ALL the way through. You can silicone on the exterior of the hull from when someone installed it. Looks a bit messy/DIY to me. My guess it's just not sealed well on the anchor locker side. Maybe I can get lucky and fix it with just some silicone? If not, I like the idea of a removable plug like someone else posted.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

The problem is this… mine looked similar to yours. The water comes into the locker then leaks around that crappy thru hull and gets in between the anchor locker and the hull. This was one of the places I sealed up on my way to a dry bilge.


So you need one of these, the part is listed in the thread I linked above.


Mine looked like this when I installed it for a test fit


So I made a little shim out of pvc pipe


Then sealed it with 3M 5200..

Another member filled that bottom area with leak repair paint so the drain was at the bottom so there wouldn’t be any standing water in there.

I’ll try to get a look at the bucket locker tomorrow..I was on the main jet today and didn’t get a o look at it today.

 

[Tylenator]

Alrighty... I figured I'd try the easy/cheap fix first and just coat the area with a sealant (I used the semi-permanent version of 5200). If this doesn't work I'll replace the whole fitting.

 

[Tylenator]

Also, question... after drying out the anchor locker itself noticed that when I would press down on the interior material, where the cracks all were next to the drain, that water would seep in. I don't know how boats are made, as in the various "shells", what they're filled with, etc., but I assume no wood would be in there? Is that a concern that water was coming in through the cracks when I pressed next to the drain?

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Also, question... after drying out the anchor locker itself noticed that when I would press down on the interior material, where the cracks all were next to the drain, that water would seep in. I don't know how boats are made, as in the various "shells", what they're filled with, etc., but I assume no wood would be in there? Is that a concern that water was coming in through the cracks when I pressed next to the drain?

There is no wood in that area… those non resin impregnated fiberglass fibers were soaked with water. The only wood that I know of in our boats is around the pop up cleats and the swim deck.

Your fix isn’t going to stop the other issue of water flowing freely into and out of the anchor locker which will keep your chain and rope constantly wet. I even seen the bow rider version of the 21’ boats have water flow out of the anchor when they come up onto plane.

My suggestion is to order the parts @drewkaree listed in his posts and fix that drain properly and get the little plugs I linked and eliminate this issue once and for all.

With some more simple effort and a some not so simple you’ll be able to have a dry bilge;

-seal up all the cup holders, seal off the drains for the two forward most cup holders as they drain into the bilge or make them drain onto the deck the way the two cup holders drain onto the deck, the cup holders on the transom also drain into the bilge so those drains can get sealed off too, and secure the drain hoses as well. The two cup holders on the storage pods will leak water into those storage areas. Use a sealant like Three Bond 1211 to seal the cup holders.
Use a bit of silicone to glue the stainless trim rings on the cup holders or they will disappear.

-Only the forward two rod holders drain over board the others drain into the aft storage compartments then into the bilge. T-H Marine makes some universal rod holder drains that you can install then route drains onto the deck, the transom vertical rod holders (as well as the transom cup holders) will be harder to run the drains for but it can be done. Seal up the mounting surfaces with Three Bond 1211 or UV stabilized 3M 4200, either of those products can be removed but I like Three Bond 1211 (Aka Yamabond) as it dries flexible.

-Replace the two stock plastic scuppers, one from the live well drain the other from the deck drain with stainless steel ones from GemLux, these are the not so simple tasks but are well worth the effort. I’d also suggest replacing the stock deck drain hose with smooth hose instead of that spiral wound stuff, the smooth stuff is MUCH easier to get to seal on the fittings.

-Make sure the L head deck drain fitting is well sealed against the bulkhead.

-While you’ve got the aft bilge opened up check the snugness of the live well fittings (and all the other fittings and hose clamps-replace any rusted clamps) Snug not tight these are plastic fittings. Also make sure the little black hose is connected to the aerator suction fitting on the live well. You’ll see a little black fitting above deck next to the live well that says MAX AIR on it, this where the other end of that little black hose connects to and where the aerator gets its air from.

-Clean out tray. Use seal and peal to seal the tray AFTER THE TRAY IS INSTALLED, you do not want to glue the tray down! Get a mechanical hatch riser from Jet Boat Pilot. Before you install the clean out tray, get some blank fittings and remove the drain in the clean out tray, it’s not needed on our boats as there are two big channels one on either side that allow water out. Whike you’ve got the tray off it’s a good opportunity to clean this area, let it dry and then spray it all down with silicone spray as a final task before sealing everything up.

-Have a look at the clean out plug seals, if they look rough replace them. Spray silicone into the areas that pivot to ease installation and removal. You can spray silicone onto the seals as well or use a bit of pool pump grease on them. The clean out tubes will usually have water in them during use.

Whichever sealant you use, use copious / enough amounts so that it squishes out from under the areas that you’re sealing up-except the clean out tray- to make sure it’s all sealed, wipe off excess.

This seems like a lot but can be done in a weekend, you’ll only need help with the scuppers, and will pay big dividends in keeping your boat dry where it should be dry and no water will come out of the hull drain plug after a day on the water, speaking of the drain plug, check the condition of the O ring and give it a spritz of silicone spray.

 

[drewkaree]

Also, question... after drying out the anchor locker itself noticed that when I would press down on the interior material, where the cracks all were next to the drain, that water would seep in. I don't know how boats are made, as in the various "shells", what they're filled with, etc., but I assume no wood would be in there? Is that a concern that water was coming in through the cracks when I pressed next to the drain?

There's no support underneath that area you were pressing on. What you were doing was, flexing the area, and likely rounding the holes or openings, which allowed the water in from the other area. This would be similar to the flexing of the boat while underway, and allowing incremental amounts of water to enter, until a lot more came in. Kinda like eating an elephant, how do you do it? First, a few bites, until eventually, it's all done.

Your processing of the situation needs a bit of time and reassessment, but you're on the right track, and you seem to want the correct things, so you have some things going for you, and that's a good thing.

Firstly, get that redneckery BS silicone caulk job out of there. We can see you're proud of your new boat, and wanna fix it, so get the old "fixes" out of there. They didn't work, why leave crap work in place, and have people think YOU did that? LOL

Yes, your fitting came all the way through, but you got a pic of that drill job with a 9mm that Yamaha did. Nowhere else, VISIBLE, did they leave a job like that, and you're having water ingress there, so it's reasonable to assume that even if IF it's not leaking there, it still isn't how you should want it to look.

You've addressed it for now, but THAT would be a spot for a temporary fix of caulk - is that what you meant by "temporary" 5200, or what IS the stuff you used? Hard to offer help without specifics, but you seem to be willing and able, so success is easier to achieve with that great attitude.

I know you may not have a lot of disposable cash after the purchase, but that fitting should be less than $20. Skip eating out, or save money elsewhere. Look at the quality and Washers to help things stay dry, vs that crap plastic ghat WILL go bad from UV exposure, eventually. Your sealant around there should stop the interior water from leaking into the 9mm drill job, but in doing this, did you now break the seal of the silicone outside?

Buy the metal fitting - UV won't rot it - and replace that thing, sealing it up all at once, so you can check that off the list of issues that may need to be revisited for phantom problems.

Get some shop towels, gloves, and a popsicle stick or 2, for a nicer and cleaner installation. You'll thank yourself later, when you can say you're CERTAIN it's not that drain anymore.

With the positive attitude you seem to have toward fixes, you'll have an @FSH 210 Sport DryRig in no time!

 

[drewkaree]

There is no wood in that area… those non resin impregnated fiberglass fibers were soaked with water. The only wood that I know of in our boats is around the pop up cleats and the swim deck.

Your fix isn’t going to stop the other issue of water flowing freely into and out of the anchor locker which will keep your chain and rope constantly wet. I even seen the bow rider version of the 21’ boats have water flow out of the anchor when they come up onto plane.

My suggestion is to order the parts @drewkaree listed in his posts and fix that drain properly and get the little plugs I linked and eliminate this issue once and for all.

With some more simple effort and a some not so simple you’ll be able to have a dry bilge;

-seal up all the cup holders, seal off the drains for the two forward most cup holders as they drain into the bilge or make them drain onto the deck the way the two cup holders drain onto the deck, the cup holders on the transom also drain into the bilge so those drains can get sealed off too, and secure the drain hoses as well. The two cup holders on the storage pods will leak water into those storage areas. Use a sealant like Three Bond 1211 to seal the cup holders.
Use a bit of silicone to glue the stainless trim rings on the cup holders or they will disappear.

-Only the forward two rod holders drain over board the others drain into the aft storage compartments then into the bilge. T-H Marine makes some universal rod holder drains that you can install then route drains onto the deck, the transom vertical rod holders (as well as the transom cup holders) will be harder to run the drains for but it can be done. Seal up the mounting surfaces with Three Bond 1211 or UV stabilized 3M 4200, either of those products can be removed but I like Three Bond 1211 (Aka Yamabond) as it dries flexible.

-Replace the two stock plastic scuppers, one from the live well drain the other from the deck drain with stainless steel ones from GemLux, these are the not so simple tasks but are well worth the effort. I’d also suggest replacing the stock deck drain hose with smooth hose instead of that spiral wound stuff, the smooth stuff is MUCH easier to get to seal on the fittings.

-Make sure the L head deck drain fitting is well sealed against the bulkhead.

-While you’ve got the aft bilge opened up check the snugness of the live well fittings (and all the other fittings and hose clamps-replace any rusted clamps) Snug not tight these are plastic fittings. Also make sure the little black hose is connected to the aerator suction fitting on the live well. You’ll see a little black fitting above deck next to the live well that says MAX AIR on it, this where the other end of that little black hose connects to and where the aerator gets its air from.

-Clean out tray. Use seal and peal to seal the tray AFTER THE TRAY IS INSTALLED, you do not want to glue the tray down! Get a mechanical hatch riser from Jet Boat Pilot. Before you install the clean out tray, get some blank fittings and remove the drain in the clean out tray, it’s not needed on our boats as there are two big channels one on either side that allow water out. Whike you’ve got the tray off it’s a good opportunity to clean this area, let it dry and then spray it all down with silicone spray as a final task before sealing everything up.

-Have a look at the clean out plug seals, if they look rough replace them. Spray silicone into the areas that pivot to ease installation and removal. You can spray silicone onto the seals as well or use a bit of pool pump grease on them. The clean out tubes will usually have water in them during use.

Whichever sealant you use, use copious / enough amounts so that it squishes out from under the areas that you’re sealing up-except the clean out tray- to make sure it’s all sealed, wipe off excess.

This seems like a lot but can be done in a weekend, you’ll only need help with the scuppers, and will pay big dividends in keeping your boat dry where it should be dry and no water will come out of the hull drain plug after a day on the water, speaking of the drain plug, check the condition of the O ring and give it a spritz of silicone spray.

The transom scupper swap to metal is one of those "must do" things, IMO, before it fails on the water, leaving a person stranded, or worse. It's been indicated on the forums here, that 2 years is enough time for them to go tits up, so right from the dealer would be acceptable, again IMO.

 

[Tylenator]

I sincerely appreciate the detailed, thorough responses. You're all correct - I want to resolve this, and correctly. I am quickly finding though, that as you continue to give me more feedback I'm coming up with more questions, and trying not to get overwhelmed. This is my second boat. The first was a jon boat and I only had it for 1 year - so this is all very new.

My suggestion is to order the parts @drewkaree listed in his posts and fix that drain properly and get the little plugs I linked and eliminate this issue once and for all.

I agree. I have the stainless thru hull fitting saved on my Amazon list. Still looking for the rubber stopper/plug.

seal up all the cup holders

What's the purpose of doing this? If you seal them, and don't route them to drain somewhere, water would collect in them with every rain. It's just another thing to clean/dry, right? Well, as I'm typing this I'm realizing... is the purpose of your effort to keep the bilge dry from the miscellaneous draining functions so that if water appears in the bilge you KNOW you ACTUALLY have a problem?

Make sure the L head deck drain fitting is well sealed against the bulkhead

What is the L head deck drain? What is the bulkhead?

Clean out tray. Use seal and peal to seal the tray AFTER THE TRAY IS INSTALLED

Is the "clean out tray" the hatch in the rear swim platform area, by the two jet clean-out plugs, that's screwed in with about 10'ish screws? Again, reading between the lines here, what's the point in sealing this? If you seal it, then you can't get back in easily right? And how do you seal something AFTER it's installed? I don't follow.

Before you install the clean out tray, get some blank fittings and remove the drain in the clean out tray

I don't understand what this means.

is that what you meant by "temporary" 5200

This is what I used

The transom scupper swap to metal is one of those "must do" things

Are you referring to the two black plastic rings on the left/right sides of the boat, where the rod holders drain out?

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

I sincerely appreciate the detailed, thorough responses. You're all correct - I want to resolve this, and correctly. I am quickly finding though, that as you continue to give me more feedback I'm coming up with more questions, and trying not to get overwhelmed. This is my second boat. The first was a jon boat and I only had it for 1 year - so this is all very new.


I agree. I have the stainless thru hull fitting saved on my Amazon list. Still looking for the rubber stopper/plug.


What's the purpose of doing this? If you seal them, and don't route them to drain somewhere, water would collect in them with every rain. It's just another thing to clean/dry, right? Well, as I'm typing this I'm realizing... is the purpose of your effort to keep the bilge dry from the miscellaneous draining functions so that if water appears in the bilge you KNOW you ACTUALLY have a problem?


What is the L head deck drain? What is the bulkhead?


Is the "clean out tray" the hatch in the rear swim platform area, by the two jet clean-out plugs, that's screwed in with about 10'ish screws? Again, reading between the lines here, what's the point in sealing this? If you seal it, then you can't get back in easily right? And how do you seal something AFTER it's installed? I don't follow.


I don't understand what this means.


This is what I used


Are you referring to the two black plastic rings on the left/right sides of the boat, where the rod holders drain out?

Just type in the rubber stopper plug part number on amazon and it will come up…

By sealing the cup holders and such I mean pull the cup holder out and seal the base where it mounts to the boat.. the drain hole / hose is another matter. Ithe cup holders on the storage pod especially, the water pools up there and it will just rain down into the storage around the cup holder.

The L head drain fitting is in the center of the boat on the rear transom below the fire extinguisher port and is where all the water front the deck goes out… so just to make sure you know something, these boats have what is called a self bailing deck, that means that water that gets on the deck does not go into the bilge like so many other boats… its amazing to me that so many fishing boats do not have self bailing decks.. same with bow riders.. but especially fishing boats, that means all the fish slime and crap has to go into the bilge and get pumped out, can’t imagine what that smells like.

Yes, the clean out tray is held in by 10ish screws.. you know how I said that the clean out tubes fill with water? Well that water will go right into the bilge under that clean out tray if is not sealed up, so you just lay a bead of seal and peel or silicone in that 90* area between the clean out tray and the main deck.. this is where the majority of water gets into the bilge comes from.

The clean out tray has a drain in it, this is not necessary on our boats since there are two big channels on either side to let water out, on other boats the clean out tray area is like a bath tub and the only way water can get out is through that drain.. but, that drain can act like a bit of a geyser when you stop quickly and the water pressure under the boat comes up and pushes up against that drain outlet. Make sense? You can order thru hull plugs, they look like regular thru hulls with a nut but there is no opening on them… so you put a blank on the lower part of the hull and another on the clean out tray.

The scuppers are nylon or plastic and are located in the jet pump area on the starboard side….

I’ll get some pics and post them for you!

Welcome aboard by the way!

Okay here are the scuppers… the one on the left is the deck drain scupper and the one on the right is the live well drain / overflow scupper.


I had never noticed these holes before this post.. but they are in my 5 gallon bucket storage locker as well. Sure looks like the footprint of windlass .. it does appear that there is wood behind the fiberglass but I can’t tell, but there is no evidence of any water coming through mine.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

In my signature you will see FSH Scupper replacement .. .which takes you to this thread;

Thread '2020 210 FSH OEM Scupper replacement'

Mar 20, 2022

I’ve seen all the posts about the nylon scuppers breaking, and @drewkaree offered much encouragement to change out the OEM nylon scuppers. I found stainless steel scuppers on Gem Lux’s website and I just put them in. The Starboard side takes two people for sure, one to hold / back up the fitting while the other tightens the nut. The Starboard one is ……. Difficult to install, best bet is to remove the starboard side exhaust hose and push it up out of the way.

This is the starboard side scupper for the live well drain and overflow. It’s proximity to the exhaust fitting increases...

• FSH 210 Sport
• Replies: 4
• Forum: Yamaha Center Console FSH 19x, 21x, 22x, 25x

• 
• 

This require a certain level boat yoga.. you’ll need a helper to help hold them in place while you tighten the nut. Be sure and put plenty of 5200 on the hull where the nut will tighten down on as well as the flange of the nut. And of course the fitting flange itself on the outside of the hull. The scuppers come with a gasket, do not rely on this, use plenty of 5200 so that it squishes out when you install it.. I do not recommend the fast set 5200 for this, you’ll need to time to get everything situated as you tighten the nut down. And, be sure and do a dry fit test so you can identify and remedy anything that needs it before you get the 5200 on there.

If you want to see what other things I have done to my boat click on the hyper links in blue in my signature.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Correction… I bet I know what those holes are for.. that would be where that end of the liner is supported at during manufacture.

Our boats are made in three basic pieces, the hull, the liner and the top cap. The liner goes inside the hull and is glued to the hull, it runs from the back of the anchor locker to aft end of the engine bay, its a pretty substantial piece as the engines are mounted to it and the fuel tank sits in it as well. Then the top cap is glued and screwed onto the hull and liner..

 

[Tylenator]

UPDATE!

My slightly messy caulk/silicone/sealant job around the inside of the anchor locker's drain plug worked. We took the boat out yesterday for a few hours and no water entered the "5-gallon bucket" floor locker via those four holes. All storage compartments were dry. The bilge pump did run ~4-5 times during our trip, but, at least I know it's not because of the anchor locker drain.

Yes, the clean out tray is held in by 10ish screws.. you know how I said that the clean out tubes fill with water? Well that water will go right into the bilge under that clean out tray if is not sealed up, so you just lay a bead of seal and peel or silicone in that 90* area between the clean out tray and the main deck.. this is where the majority of water gets into the bilge comes from.

This might sound dumb, but, if you seal the tray then you can't just pull it off on a whim. That's not an issue? To be sealing off an access panel?

You can order thru hull plugs, they look like regular thru hulls with a nut but there is no opening on them… so you put a blank on the lower part of the hull and another on the clean out tray.

Ok, so you're essentially "deleting" the existing drain so that water won't fill the tray with back-pressure anymore.

I had never noticed these holes before this post.. but they are in my 5 gallon bucket storage locker as well. Sure looks like the footprint of windlass .. it does appear that there is wood behind the fiberglass but I can’t tell, but there is no evidence of any water coming through mine.

I feel special that I discovered something.

The scuppers come with a gasket, do not rely on this, use plenty of 5200 so that it squishes out when you install it.

To clarify "do not rely on this" - does that mean use the gasket + 5200 or do not use the gasket at all and only use 5200?

If you want to see what other things I have done to my boat click on the hyper links in blue in my signature.

This is a fantastic idea. A great resource. Thank you for takin the time to do this.

 

[drewkaree]

UPDATE!

My slightly messy caulk/silicone/sealant job around the inside of the anchor locker's drain plug worked. We took the boat out yesterday for a few hours and no water entered the "5-gallon bucket" floor locker via those four holes. All storage compartments were dry. The bilge pump did run ~4-5 times during our trip, but, at least I know it's not because of the anchor locker drain.


This might sound dumb, but, if you seal the tray then you can't just pull it off on a whim. That's not an issue? To be sealing off an access panel?


Ok, so you're essentially "deleting" the existing drain so that water won't fill the tray with back-pressure anymore.


I feel special that I discovered something.


To clarify "do not rely on this" - does that mean use the gasket + 5200 or do not use the gasket at all and only use 5200?


This is a fantastic idea. A great resource. Thank you for takin the time to do this.

Your bilge likely still has water in it, which is why the pump kicked on. The middle-front of the boat is the lowest point, and when getting on plane, the water heads backwards, leading to the pump kicking on.

You said it came on 4-5 times during the day, so water is still coming in SOMEWHERE, but you have reason to believe the area you sealed up is not the main culprit any longer, although it could be a small amount around the exterior of that plastic fitting.

Do not use the gasket, 5200 that metal fitting to the boat.

The cleanout tray will NEVER be an "on a whim" item to remove, and the sealant recommended is from @Babin Farms suggestion, as it's designed for seasonal use around the house, and isn't a permanent type of sealant. It's less problematic to remove when the time comes for you to inspect or work in the area, which is why it's suggested

Yes, you're "deleting" that drain, as the FSH model has a far better method of clearing water from the cleanout tray area, with your 2 gutters, so deleting that drain addresses one more area that allows water in, and gets to the bilge

The cleanout tray is almost definitely the reason your pump kicked on 4-5 times, and when you remove it, you'll likely discover missing sealant, gaps, screws loose, etc.

Check all your hose clamps while you have the tray off, and tighten them. I'd also replace every one with stainless T-bolt hose clamps, but that's your decision to make.

Look at your manual for what's what in there, and where sealant should be applied - tubes, tray, etc. You may think it's as simple as unscrewing all those screws, but there's just a few more areas to look at, and they're identified in your manual, I believe

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Your bilge likely still has water in it, which is why the pump kicked on. The middle-front of the boat is the lowest point, and when getting on plane, the water heads backwards, leading to the pump kicking on.

You said it came on 4-5 times during the day, so water is still coming in SOMEWHERE, but you have reason to believe the area you sealed up is not the main culprit any longer, although it could be a small amount around the exterior of that plastic fitting.

Do not use the gasket, 5200 that metal fitting to the boat.

The cleanout tray will NEVER be an "on a whim" item to remove, and the sealant recommended is from @Babin Farms suggestion, as it's designed for seasonal use around the house, and isn't a permanent type of sealant. It's less problematic to remove when the time comes for you to inspect or work in the area, which is why it's suggested

Yes, you're "deleting" that drain, as the FSH model has a far better method of clearing water from the cleanout tray area, with your 2 gutters, so deleting that drain addresses one more area that allows water in, and gets to the bilge

The cleanout tray is almost definitely the reason your pump kicked on 4-5 times, and when you remove it, you'll likely discover missing sealant, gaps, screws loose, etc.

Check all your hose clamps while you have the tray off, and tighten them. I'd also replace every one with stainless T-bolt hose clamps, but that's your decision to make.

Look at your manual for what's what in there, and where sealant should be applied - tubes, tray, etc. You may think it's as simple as unscrewing all those screws, but there's just a few more areas to look at, and they're identified in your manual, I believe

I was just starting to reply…and, well, Bobs your uncle…