12 Volt accessory buss / additional switches

[FSH 210 Sport]

I knew that I was going to need more switches and a source of power for those switches that would control the new bilge pump and the electric raw water wash down pump. I used the oem switch panel that held the cruise assist / no wake mode switch and the jet wash switch. I cut another Carling switch hole to the left of the jet wash switch and moved the jet wash switch to the new hole and put the cruise assist switch into the hole that held the jet wash switch. On the lower row, I cut two more holes and installed the switches for the raw water wash down pump, the bilge pump, and a spare… always install spares.




I bought two buss’s, a positive and a negative, I fed the positive buss with 10/2 wire connected to a 30A breaker. The breaker in turn would be connected to the switched side of the house battery switch.






By putting another buss in the head compartment and feeding it from the switched side of the house battery switch I could leave the OEM electrical system alone, so everything I add will be an isolated set of systems. This buss will also be the source of power for the hard tops‘ distribution panel that will come later.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Update:

I found that the rocker switch covers I bought were not bright enough in the daylight for my liking, so I swapped them out for a different style of switch cover.

I used the new ACC switchs’ 5A ckt breaker to power the always hot / Auto for the new aux bilge pump instead of installing an inline ATC fuse / fuse holder.

As mentioned in my other thread on conversion to LiFePO batteries, I had to cut the red operating power wire on the back of the DVSR and make the DVSR only operate manually due to the nature of the house LiFePO batteries higher resting voltage (13.6) being high enough that the DVSR was closing the relay and “charging” the AGM start battery. I ran another two wire run from the DVSR red wire in the battery compartment to the helm (leaving a spare wire-always run spares) and attached it to the switched side of the ACC rocker switch-which has become the battery paralleling switch, so I could manually supply power to the DVSR- to be clear this power is not the power the DVSR senses on the batteries, it’s the operating power. I chose to supply the DVSR manually for the time being as I did not want to try and figure out the ignition hot supply to the DVSR. In the future I will install a five minute time delay relay from the ignition hot to the DVSR, this will give the AGM start battery voltage time be equal to or greater than the house LiFePO battery voltage before the DVSR closes paralleling the start and house battery, thus assuring that the house LiFePO battery only receives a charge from the engines and doesn’t try to “charge” the start AGM battery.

In the next month I’ll be installing the hard top and will be running power from the 12V buss to the instrument box attached to the hard top for the spreader lights and the vhf radio.

 

[JPINOT]

Extremely clean wiring! Thank you for sharing! Might copy your setup

 

[HawaiiBreeze]

Nice and clean install and I looked up "Carling Switch"...love this forum, always learning something new.

 

[Dixemon]

Nice work! You have alot more free time than i do?

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Thank you @JPINOT , @HawaiiBreeze , @Dixemon for the gracious compliments! I’m glad y’all found the pics useful!

@Dixemon , yes I do have time to do these projects ! There was a lot of planning that went into the off season projects and so far they seem to be working out very well!

 

[lazergeek]

@FSH 210 Sport How did you cut the new switch holes? I'm thinking dremal but wanted to check. Also how hard was it to remove the label over the triangle panel?

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Yes I used a Dremel tool to cut the holes for the switches, I cut them just a tad undersized then used a nail file board to finish the holes off test fitting frequently to get the right fit.

The labels come off easy with a heat gun / hair dryer. Be advised the black color in the plastics triangle is is painted on, I found this out the hard way after I had done my layout on the back side with a scribe, the layout lines came through to the front, and when I tried to paint the back side I did not use a plastic type of paint and it orange peeled really bad. I ended up just spray painting both sides a flat black with the correct type of paint. As you can see from the pic below I cracked / broke the plastic where the ckt breaker is for the aft bilge. Yamaha is very proud of that triangular piece of plastic so mine got a little sealer on the back side and got used.

I took these pics mainly to show how I’d upgraded the switches after I had used the ones in the first post of this thread. Those original ones were not bright enough during the day to be seen easily, these other ones can be seen easily in broad daylight. I also changed out the ACC switch to a ”Sounder” switch plate and also changed out the Horn button to a red one so it is super easy to see. If you decide to go with New Wire Marine, get the little tool to remove the rocker switch covers, it makes that super easy.

I do like having the cruise assist where it is now, I don’t even look down for it, run my hand down the throttle handle and the switch is right there.

 

[lazergeek]

I wonder about adding carbon fiber vinyl over the top?

 

[MrBubbaGump]

@FSH 210 Sport You happen to have a write up or post on how you did the electric raw water washdown?

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

I wonder about adding carbon fiber vinyl over the top?

The top is a non skid type surface, I think if you were to put it in the back it would show through the clear plastic?

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

@FSH 210 Sport You happen to have a write up or post on how you did the electric raw water washdown?

Here you go! If you have any questions let me know.

https://jetboaters.net/threads/raw-water-wash-down-improvement.30950/