12v Dash Socket Install

[Mystic1906]

So the only major complaint after our first trip on the boat was that there was only one 12v socket on the boat and even with a dual USB adapter they were limited to charging two phones at a time. After a little bit of research and planning I decided to add another socket. I figured the best place would be in the glove compartment cause it would allow them to charge their phones in the same place they were storing them at.

I got a Blue Seas Systems 12v Dash Socket and 12AWG wire from Amazon. From West Marine I scooped up an inline fuse holder and 20A fuses. The rest of what I needed like connectors I had at home.

My first task was to cut the hole in the dash and insert the socket




Then I ran the wire and connected it all up. The power wires were run directly to the battery (until I can install a 2nd battery with a busbar)


This is what the finished product looks like.


Not a bad little project that only took a couple of hours at most to do. Now I can put in another dual USB adapter and my passengers don't have to fight over a charger port LOL.

 

[Scuba_ref]

You must boat with teenagers!!!

 

[Zarrella]

Nice Job! I am sure that will come in handy!

 

[Mystic1906]

@Scuba_ref Yeah niece and nephew but my wife loves her iPhone prob as much as she loves me LOL

@Zarrella Thanks

 

[2nazt]

A 20amp fuse seems to be a lot for a charger. Is that what it is called for? Good job on install by the way.

 

[Mystic1906]

@2nazt I am prob gonna change that out for a 10A fuse just to be safe.

 

[2nazt]

@Mystic1906 blueseas product states a 2amp fuse in their instructions

 

[Julian]

Nice job! 20amp fuse is way to big for just a phone charger, but if he wants to plug an inflator in there, he'd want something bigger like 20amp.

If its only for a max 2.1 amp 5v phone charger...2 amp would be ok...if I recall when I researched this myself, a 5v 2.1 amp charger pulled something like 1.2 amps. Depends on what you are protecting...the plug or the wire. @Mainah can probably explain this much better than I can!

 

[Mystic1906]

I have a 12v plug in air compressor to blow up the floats that I will use from that socket as well. It's why I was going to go no lower than a 10amp fuse but I was only guessing on that one.

 

[2nazt]

Okay I misunderstood and thought you did the 2 USB plug only. I apologize for the confusion.

 

[Mystic1906]

No worries. I really appreciate the feedback cause I am by no means even close to being an expect. I knew the 20A was too much after looking at the demands of the inflator. It's a small one so it don't draw a lot of amperage.

 

[Mainah]

@Julian You nailed it. Putting aside the raw numbers 14 guage is the minium I would use anywhere in a boat to carry power. To truly protect the wire against melting/ fire fuse under the wire capacity with length considered as close to its point of origin as possible. To protect the load side to lower current draw than the wire fuse for just above its normal draw as close to the draw as possible. Also avoid glass type inline fuses.

One of my next projects is to add twin 2.1 amp usb sockets in both sides of the bow and at the co-captains location (I have teenagers). I am going to use a spare slot in my amp distribution block at the helm to run a fused 20 amp duplex main line around the bow and to the co-captains location with two branches and the termination. I am going to use mini blade inline 3 amp fuses in waterproof holders at each branch and the termination.

@Mystic1906 20 amp is right for an inflator and 12v usb chargers are just regulated step down (aka buck) converters that would likley already be damaged if they were trying to draw too much current. Just make sure not to run the usb in series before the 12 volt plug. Cars and even our boats have fuse panels at the origination point to protect against short circuits and overload in the wire as well as protect the equipment (rarely fused at termination) which is why you may find many same guage wires with different size fuses. If you have a long run you may want to consider fusing at the point of origin and also calculate wire size for your length of run.

 

[Mystic1906]

@Mainah I used a 12AWG wire at about 7 feet each wire because from the storage compartment to the battery wasn't that far. I attached the inline fuse about a foot from the connector to the back of the socket. I did use a glass inline fuse so I will have to change that out.

To charge the phones I plan on using a dual USB adapted in the socket. I won't be using the inflators for that long. I tested it on the two inflatables I have and it took like 3 mins to blow up the larger one and less to get the one for my son. Do you think I should stick with the 20A or change it out for the 10A as I was going to do?

 

[Mainah]

12 guage should be fine (sounds right). I bet the inflator will blow the 10amp so I would stick with the 20amp. The only thing to be aware of is if you overload that 7 feet of wire or it shorts (casing gets cut against something there is nothing to stop it from melting or arcing without a fuse at the origination. The glass fuse and holder can be prone to corrosion at the spring loaded connection points which is why they are not well suited for a boat. Using a water proof mini blade holder pigtail at the battery with a 20 amp fuse would be my suggestion. Or if you are adding more in the future perhaps a add on fuse block. Dont forget to water proof all of your connections and only use cooper wire or tinned copper wire as well.

Some may think I go overboard but that is exactly what I try to make sure does not happen by planning for the worst case

Good Luck