2016 F150 Trasmission Fluid change at 150,000 miles ?

[Compatico]

I got a 2016 F150 5.0 4WD with a 6 speed transmission. After 3 years the truck has 57,000 miles and 45,000 miles are towing (less than 6,000lbs). So I was thinking to change the transmission, transfer case and differential fluids. I looked online ( see link below) and it says that I should not bother until I hit 150,000 miles!!! is that for real ? or is Ford playing tricks on me?

It's common sense, follow the manual intervals for oil, tranny, transfer, and diff because the manufacturer knows how to take care of their gear under normal or infrequent use. But change early if you're stressing the fluids with heavier than recommended use. If you tow every day or tow near limits, then change early to prevent wear. If you tow at less than half capacity, or tow a fair distance once a month near capacity, you can probably stick to the manual's recommended intervals as you're not really stressing the system and fluids. If you only tow at 50% capacity once a week but load up the vehicle with max cargo and passengers when you do, then change early because that is stressing the system.

Remember that most vehicles have ratings based on minimal loads like one occupant, 10% load, and under 50% trailer capacity. Just like tire pressures are based on one occupant and no cargo in the vehicle. As soon as you increase these load numbers, you need to compensate with more air pressure or more frequent maintenance as needed.

Don't forget that changing fluids is very inexpensive for dealers, and costly for consumers = high profit for dealers. Change your fluids early if you're a moderate to heavy hauler - don't if you're not.

 

[Neutron]

Transmission flush= low profit for dealer
Transmission replacement= high profit for dealer.
What would you prefer from your wallet.
I can say that in my career with Toyota, average vehicles serviced or repaired in one year is 4000. Been with Toyota for 20 years i have personally replaced about 8 transmissions between the complete car and truck line. And have seen maybe another 10 replaced by other techs.
Thats a great track record. 90% of the failures were from lack of maintenance

 

[Betik]

@Neutron toyota does have very good transmission though to begin with. I have heard multiple incidents on original transmissions going 300K+

 

[Betik]

@Fordman & @Neutron do you have any insight on what temperature we should avoid while towing ? Obviously, nothing on the high range of the dashboard indicator, but I wonder if say 210 to 220 is too high. The highest I have seen mine was 218 on I-10 in Florida ( ~75mph with the boat behind). Wondering if I should try to slow down if temperature reaches 200 or 210 or stop stressing about it.

 

[Dixie Highway]

I regularly hit 200-205 driving unloaded on the highway, honestly the highest I’ve seen is 210 in the TN mountains in 95 degree weather towing the boat.

 

[Betik]

I regularly hit 200-205 driving unloaded on the highway, honestly the highest I’ve seen is 210 in the TN mountains in 95 degree weather towing the boat.

those are my typical numbers are well. I have definitely seen 212 for sure, but this is like after 8 hours of towing from Miami to Pensacola. And the 218 was in that same stretch. I was a bit on a rush, because we left Bimini on Saturday morning and Sunday evening we were home in Dallas.

 

[Fordman]

I wouldn't stress until the warning light came on. But if by some chance you see 225, I suggest you back down a little bit

 

[Neutron]

99 % of the transmissions out there are being cooled by your antifreeze/radiator and then if it has a towing package it then travels throught another cooler that is air cooled behind your grill.
So given that your engine and coolant is operating in a range from 205 to 220, your trans fluid will be in the same area. The bigger the trans cooler that is inline after it goes through the radiator the lower it will be before it travels back to the transmission.
Trans fluid is the hardest working fluid it lubricates, cools, cleans. is a hydraulic agent, etc.
Now since most vehicles dont have an easy way to check your trans fluid level or condition, having it replaced is some cheap insurance in my book.
Check for leaks often, because if it goes low it will definitely cause damage especially when cold start ups

 

[Betik]

Thank you both.

 

[Betik]

Quick update while being on lock down having not much to do.

The truck has 67,000 miles and the transmission have operated twice at 238F for 10 minute ( each) while climbing 10,000 feet peak in Colorado and doing about 30 to 35 mph. Otherwise it has never been over 220.

Front diff:
I used the oil extractor to take out a bit over a 1QT of fluid. It came out as it was new. But I do not recall using the 4x4 except once while chasing Bruce in a random Arkansas dirt road.

Transfer Case:
I used the oil extractor to take out a bit over a 1.5QT of fluid and then took off the lower plug to drain the rest of it. The fluid seemed to be in rather good condition. I feel it could have stayed longer, but it was pretty easy job, so probably worth the 30 minutes worth of work.

Rear diff:
I used the oil extractor to take out close 2QT of fluid. Now that was dirty alright. I am planning on taking for 50 mile drive and repeating the process. The fluid smelled different than the front diff. I would not say burned, but definitely used.

Transmission :
I used the oil extractor to take out 5QT of fluid. Then dropped the pan. It was a good idea as it reduced the amount of mess. The fluid had a real strong smell, not sure it it smelled burned, but most definitely a strong smell. The color was also very different. Very dirty. Not quite black like the engine oil, but definitely on the dark side. Though probably less dark than the rear diff. The magnets had some accumulation. Not pieces of metal but rather a paste of metall. I would say about 2mm thick on the magnets. The bottom of the pan had also a very thin layer of the black shavings. Although I could not tell until I used a towel to wipe it down.

I still need to change the coolant fluid and the sparks plugs. My truck has a lot of idle hours, so I think it is a good idea to change them.


Conclusion
@Neutron, @Fordman et.al. thank you for pushing me to change the fluids. The transmission and rear differential it defiantly needed the change.

thanks ag

 

[Seadeals]

Nice job on the fluid changes and now you will easily be able to do them next time. I push my F-150 3.5 Ecoboost hard with boat towing, travel trailer towing and performance tunes to make me smile. I put fluids and plugs on much more frequent change intervals. The lead frame TSB on my six speed included new fluid at the dealer but it’s nearing on my to do list. Rear diff has been done three times (106k miles). Once for the rear diff shaft seal leak/TSB around 57k, once when I put on this new diff cover to regularly service it much easier and a third time because I dabbed the sealant when I installed it and it started to leak a few months later . Plugs can be more sensitive if running high boost (towing). I had carbon tracking on the original set around 60k (one carbon tracked) and changed these around 105k. No carbon tracking but gaps were .008 more than the .032 now recommended.

 

[PEARCE]

Nice job on the fluid changes and now you will easily be able to do them next time. I push my F-150 3.5 Ecoboost hard with boat towing, travel trailer towing and performance tunes to make me smile. I put fluids and plugs on much more frequent change intervals. The lead frame TSB on my six speed included new fluid at the dealer but it’s nearing on my to do list. Rear diff has been done three times (106k miles). Once for the rear diff shaft seal leak/TSB around 57k, once when I put on this new diff cover to regularly service it much easier and a third time because I dabbed the sealant when I installed it and it started to leak a few months later . Plugs can be more sensitive if running high boost (towing). I had carbon tracking on the original set around 60k (one carbon tracked) and changed these around 105k. No carbon tracking but gaps were .008 more than the .032 now recommended.View attachment 138698View attachment 138699

Damn! How many miles are on those plugs? Did you replace them with another set of Motorcraft plugs? How did you know it was time?

We have a '19 Expedition limited with the 3.5 Eco and we're about to roll 24k on the ticker and it still runs and drives as good as it did on day 1. We've only towed the boat with it for about 350 miles and it did beautifully. It's my wife's daily driver with no plans to turn up the power till maybe after warranty is up.

Do those plugs look that way because you run a hot tune? I know Ford sells more Ecos in their trucks then v8s, but there's no way they all look like that with normal use.

 

[Betik]

Damn! How many miles are on those plugs? Did you replace them with another set of Motorcraft plugs? How did you know it was time?

We have a '19 Expedition limited with the 3.5 Eco and we're about to roll 24k on the ticker and it still runs and drives as good as it did on day 1. We've only towed the boat with it for about 350 miles and it did beautifully. It's my wife's daily driver with no plans to turn up the power till maybe after warranty is up.

Do those plugs look that way because you run a hot tune? I know Ford sells more Ecos in their trucks then v8s, but there's no way they all look like that with normal use.

I will post a picture when I pull mine in the next few days

 

[buckbuck]

Those poor abused spark plugs...

 

[Seadeals]

Tunes push harder for sure so very frequent changes are highly recommended if you capitalize on the true HP and Torque potential. They had about 45k but most miles it was not tuned. I think the exterior brown may be the small amount of dielectric I put on in the cool boots running down and “burning” when hot. As for the working ends, that’s all on me. Lots of fuel flows through when towing so much. Only the OEM plugs for me and not tuned high enough for the cold plugs since still running stock induction and turbos. I’ll change in no more than 10k to compare since running a 93 tune all the time. Just so you don’t think I completely abuse my toys, here she is.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Quick update while being on lock down having not much to do.

The truck has 67,000 miles and the transmission have operated twice at 238F for 10 minute ( each) while climbing 10,000 feet peak in Colorado and doing about 30 to 35 mph. Otherwise it has never been over 220.

Front diff:
I used the oil extractor to take out a bit over a 1QT of fluid. It came out as it was new. But I do not recall using the 4x4 except once while chasing Bruce in a random Arkansas dirt road.

Transfer Case:
I used the oil extractor to take out a bit over a 1.5QT of fluid and then took off the lower plug to drain the rest of it. The fluid seemed to be in rather good condition. I feel it could have stayed longer, but it was pretty easy job, so probably worth the 30 minutes worth of work.

Rear diff:
I used the oil extractor to take out close 2QT of fluid. Now that was dirty alright. I am planning on taking for 50 mile drive and repeating the process. The fluid smelled different than the front diff. I would not say burned, but definitely used.

Transmission :
I used the oil extractor to take out 5QT of fluid. Then dropped the pan. It was a good idea as it reduced the amount of mess. The fluid had a real strong smell, not sure it it smelled burned, but most definitely a strong smell. The color was also very different. Very dirty. Not quite black like the engine oil, but definitely on the dark side. Though probably less dark than the rear diff. The magnets had some accumulation. Not pieces of metal but rather a paste of metall. I would say about 2mm thick on the magnets. The bottom of the pan had also a very thin layer of the black shavings. Although I could not tell until I used a towel to wipe it down.

I still need to change the coolant fluid and the sparks plugs. My truck has a lot of idle hours, so I think it is a good idea to change them.


Conclusion
@Neutron, @Fordman et.al. thank you for pushing me to change the fluids. The transmission and rear differential it defiantly needed the change.

thanks ag

Did you change the filter in the trans?

 

[Betik]

Did you change the filter in the trans?

Yes I did . Since I dropped the pan might as well.

 

[Betik]

Changed the spark plugs today. as you can tell my truck idles a lot, so it was time.
Now I have to drain the antifreeze and clean the throttle body and then annual deep cleaning on the inside

 

[Rooster585]

Thanks for the info.

Any words of advice on the 3.5 ecoboost?

Only one...keep an eye an any water weeping from where the water pump SHOULD BE! There is a weep hole in the front of the engine and if it starts leaking trade it in. Get on the Ford forums and read why. They put the DA*N water pump internal to the engine. It is driven by the timing chains for cryin out loud. Then if the pump decides to let go while going down the road, you have about 2 seconds to pull over and kill the engine before EVERYTHING is ruined. (Good luck with that) This holds true for the non turbo 3.5 also. A lot of P.O'ed folks over this one. And if you catch it before it shells out and ruins the engine, they have to pull the engine, break into the front casing to get to the $40.00 water pump. Oh about a $1,500.0 starting point for that job. The 3.5 is a poor design.
One other note-not a hater. I love Ford products. My current is an F-150 4X4 XLT with the 395 HP 302. I had and Explorer Limited with the 3.5 and got rid of it when all that went down. Hated the day I traded it in but wasn't worth taking the chance.

 

[Fordman]

Only one...keep an eye an any water weeping from where the water pump SHOULD BE! There is a weep hole in the front of the engine and if it starts leaking trade it in. Get on the Ford forums and read why. They put the DA*N water pump internal to the engine. It is driven by the timing chains for cryin out loud. Then if the pump decides to let go while going down the road, you have about 2 seconds to pull over and kill the engine before EVERYTHING is ruined. (Good luck with that) This holds true for the non turbo 3.5 also. A lot of P.O'ed folks over this one. And if you catch it before it shells out and ruins the engine, they have to pull the engine, break into the front casing to get to the $40.00 water pump. Oh about a $1,500.0 starting point for that job. The 3.5 is a poor design.
One other note-not a hater. I love Ford products. My current is an F-150 4X4 XLT with the 395 HP 302. I had and Explorer Limited with the 3.5 and got rid of it when all that went down. Hated the day I traded it in but wasn't worth taking the chance.

That is only true for normally front wheel drive vehicles. All the rear wheel drive 3.5 turbo or non-turbo the water pump is external. I would recommend that if you own a 3.5 front wheel drive (ex.-explorer), that at 100,000 miles you should replace the water pump before any internal damage occurs.