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2020 212S - JL Audio Setup

anmut

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I don't even have the boat yet but I'm already thinking that the stock speakers will needed to be upgraded and I want to add some projection to the tower. Visited the local place that has done work for me in the past am looking at the following. This is going on a 2020 212S:

1) Replace all of the stock Polk's with JL M3-650X-S
2) Hang two JL M6-880-ETX from the tower
3) Use stock Fusion head/remote
4) Power it with a JL XD-800
5) Run a JL Audio M6-10FES under a seat or in the helm area

Estimate - $4k or so

Pros/cons to a setup like this? Thoughts on price? Also, does the 7" Connext come with zone control, otherwise i'll need a separate volume for the tower.
 

Compatico

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1) Replace all of the stock Polk's with JL M3-650X-S
Why replace them? The stock speakers are actually pretty decent sounding, just need an amp to get them pumping. Wattage rating is 60w RMS just like the JL's you want to install. If louder volume is your intended goal, an amp will do that. If you want a lot more volume, you'll need to bump up the amp to 100+w per channel and JL M6 series for the higher output.
2) Hang two JL M6-880-ETX from the tower
Those would be nice - the slight difference in sound tonality (timber) wouldn't be much of an issue as they're intended to project sound to the rider on the wakeboard or skis, so it's a non-issue.
3) Use stock Fusion head/remote
Yup it's a good unit. The Connext screen is actually the remote for the Fusion head so amp connections are in the stern.
4) Power it with a JL XD-800
Make sure you select a marine grade amp, not automotive. Even if the unit is in a safe place, humidity levels on the water can reach 100% and could be an issue. Marine units have coated boards to resist corrosion and moisture.
5) Run a JL Audio M6-10FES under a seat or in the helm area
Not sure on that one - the sealed enclosure seems too small. If you're able to do it, mounting an IB sub in the lower gunwale/comming area behind the co-pilot chair would probably be a better investment and produce deeper and more solid bass output for a similar price.
Also, does the 7" Connext come with zone control, otherwise i'll need a separate volume for the tower.
The Connext does have front/rear fade control, not sure if it has more zones, although it's just a matter of wiring it right so the boat uses the front inputs and the towers run from the rear inputs (or vice-versa) to control the towers separately.
 

anmut

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Why replace them? The stock speakers are actually pretty decent sounding, just need an amp to get them pumping. Wattage rating is 60w RMS just like the JL's you want to install. If louder volume is your intended goal, an amp will do that. If you want a lot more volume, you'll need to bump up the amp to 100+w per channel and JL M6 series for the higher output.

Those would be nice - the slight difference in sound tonality (timber) wouldn't be much of an issue as they're intended to project sound to the rider on the wakeboard or skis, so it's a non-issue.

Yup it's a good unit. The Connext screen is actually the remote for the Fusion head so amp connections are in the stern.

Make sure you select a marine grade amp, not automotive. Even if the unit is in a safe place, humidity levels on the water can reach 100% and could be an issue. Marine units have coated boards to resist corrosion and moisture.

Not sure on that one - the sealed enclosure seems too small. If you're able to do it, mounting an IB sub in the lower gunwale/comming area behind the co-pilot chair would probably be a better investment and produce deeper and more solid bass output for a similar price.

The Connext does have front/rear fade control, not sure if it has more zones, although it's just a matter of wiring it right so the boat uses the front inputs and the towers run from the rear inputs (or vice-versa) to control the towers separately.
That's awesome info, thank you. Additional questions:

1) Installer said marine grade amp isn't worth it - you disagree and I see your reasons. It wasn't a concern of money by me that he recommended it, he really just said the difference between them doesn't explain the additional cost. I'm at a loss of why they'd recommend a non-marine amp now.

2) On the sub, I really don't want to cut a hole, and the installer didn't recommend that either because "you don't know what kind of sound quality you'll get until after the hole is cut." I appreciate that - so maybe a custom built box instead? Any reason to go behind the co-pilot vs in front of the driver?

3) Any different recommendations on this build?

4) What are the thoughts about mounting the tower speakers on the port/sb outside of the tower, instead of on the cross beams? I like the idea of not banging into them with my head, but I've only seen that format when the cross beam is already full of speakers.
 

Compatico

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That's awesome info, thank you. Additional questions:

1) Installer said marine grade amp isn't worth it - you disagree and I see your reasons. It wasn't a concern of money by me that he recommended it, he really just said the difference between them doesn't explain the additional cost. I'm at a loss of why they'd recommend a non-marine amp now.
That's just poor salesmanship - the cost is worth it and justifiable.
2) On the sub, I really don't want to cut a hole, and the installer didn't recommend that either because "you don't know what kind of sound quality you'll get until after the hole is cut." I appreciate that - so maybe a custom built box instead? Any reason to go behind the co-pilot vs in front of the driver?
Where is goes is a matter of baffle requirements. If it's an infinite baffle, a large volume of air behind the woofer cone is essential. So behind the co-pilot or driver doesn't really matter. But sticking a sub in a tiny box is not a good way to get bass output. You could look at making your own box suited and sized to the sub.
4) What are the thoughts about mounting the tower speakers on the port/sb outside of the tower, instead of on the cross beams? I like the idea of not banging into them with my head, but I've only seen that format when the cross beam is already full of speakers.
Location shouldn't matter...but most people don't have an issue with them inboard the tower, if they're over the seating area, it's usually far enough behind your head when you stand up.
 

Hoyt

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The 2020 conext does not allow zone control (turns volume up or down on all zones) . The head unit on the swim deck does though. On our 2020 195S I use the Fusion app on my phone to control zones while driving. I have wetsounds so I keep towers down super low unless at sand bar or boarding. The 2020s have that phone holder on the helm so put my phone in there, run the Fusion app, and control volume and zones.

Google play store "Fusion Link"
Screenshot_20200208-073647_One UI Home.jpg
 

Hoyt

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I as well didn't want to cut my brand new boat. I've built a vented enclosure for a wetsounds revo 12" sub. Enclosure is under passenger helm. It hits extremely hard running about 500 watts rms. Shakes the whole Damn boat kinda hard. Our 2020 195S came with stock wetsounds 5s in cabin. I amplified them with about 65 watts rms like compatico is saying. It was plenty. Super loud.

Here's a video of the outside of the boat. This is just cabin speakers and sub. Also boat is covered with mooring cover in this video. Vented enclosure is doing its job
 

anmut

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I as well didn't want to cut my brand new boat. I've built a vented enclosure for a wetsounds revo 12" sub. Enclosure is under passenger helm. It hits extremely hard running about 500 watts rms. Shakes the whole Damn boat kinda hard. Our 2020 195S came with stock wetsounds 5s in cabin. I amplified them with about 65 watts rms like compatico is saying. It was plenty. Super loud.

Here's a video of the outside of the boat. This is just cabin speakers and sub. Also boat is covered with mooring cover in this video. Vented enclosure is doing its job
Nice!!!
 

Drift Away

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I don't even have the boat yet but I'm already thinking that the stock speakers will needed to be upgraded and I want to add some projection to the tower. Visited the local place that has done work for me in the past am looking at the following. This is going on a 2020 212S:

1) Replace all of the stock Polk's with JL M3-650X-S
2) Hang two JL M6-880-ETX from the tower
3) Use stock Fusion head/remote
4) Power it with a JL XD-800
5) Run a JL Audio M6-10FES under a seat or in the helm area

Estimate - $4k or so

Pros/cons to a setup like this? Thoughts on price? Also, does the 7" Connext come with zone control, otherwise i'll need a separate volume for the tower.
I think your going to need another amp. That setuo you have will take 10 channels (unless your gonna pair up those 6.5, which would work but they will be a little under powered).
 

anmut

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I think your going to need another amp. That setuo you have will take 10 channels (unless your gonna pair up those 6.5, which would work but they will be a little under powered).
I think you're right - so add a woofer amp... damn these things get expensive quickly.
 

Drift Away

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I think you're right - so add a woofer amp... damn these things get expensive quickly.
Welcome to the life of loud boating haha.
 

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I as well didn't want to cut my brand new boat. I've built a vented enclosure for a wetsounds revo 12" sub. Enclosure is under passenger helm. It hits extremely hard running about 500 watts rms. Shakes the whole Damn boat kinda hard. Our 2020 195S came with stock wetsounds 5s in cabin. I amplified them with about 65 watts rms like compatico is saying. It was plenty. Super loud.

Here's a video of the outside of the boat. This is just cabin speakers and sub. Also boat is covered with mooring cover in this video. Vented enclosure is doing its job
Ok I'm a total noob when it comes to audio... I also want to upgrade and feel the 65w RMS is all I need at this time. There are 6 speakers yet folks refer to a 4 channel amp. Are two of the speakers wired differently or do I need a 6 channel amp? (2020 212s).
And does the factory Fusion have pre-outs or do you need a harness of some sort?
 

anmut

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Ok I'm a total noob when it comes to audio... I also want to upgrade and feel the 65w RMS is all I need at this time. There are 6 speakers yet folks refer to a 4 channel amp. Are two of the speakers wired differently or do I need a 6 channel amp? (2020 212s).
And does the factory Fusion have pre-outs or do you need a harness of some sort?
Factory fusion comes with two zones, so you can run two amps. For instance I have zone 1 as tower/platform speakers and zone 2 with cockpit and bow speakers plus sub. I honestly don't know how this is hooked up from the factory, I had mine replaced a few days after delivery on the boat. RE the factory Fusion, I know my installer had to reach out to Fusion to make sure it was installed correctly.
 

ericoask424

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Ok I'm a total noob when it comes to audio... I also want to upgrade and feel the 65w RMS is all I need at this time. There are 6 speakers yet folks refer to a 4 channel amp. Are two of the speakers wired differently or do I need a 6 channel amp? (2020 212s).
And does the factory Fusion have pre-outs or do you need a harness of some sort?
I know the AR240 2020 Fusion harness on my boat was cut. Had to order a harness to make it work.
 

anmut

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You know, i have the parts list on the bill at home. PM me so I remember and I should be able to tell you what parts they used to connect.
 

Julian

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What are the thoughts about mounting the tower speakers on the port/sb outside of the tower, instead of on the cross beams? I like the idea of not banging into them with my head, but I've only seen that format when the cross beam is already full of speakers.
The problem with putting them on the outside is when/if you ever want to:
  1. Tie up to another boat...they'll be in the way
  2. Go through a lock - you risk scraping them on the walls
  3. Tie up at a non floating dock when the tide all the way out.
 

anmut

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The problem with putting them on the outside is when/if you ever want to:
  1. Tie up to another boat...they'll be in the way
  2. Go through a lock - you risk scraping them on the walls
  3. Tie up at a non floating dock when the tide all the way out.
They were installed on the inside for sure. Wakeboard racks went on the outside, but they quick disconnect / swivel.
 

foozed

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Factory fusion comes with two zones, so you can run two amps. For instance I have zone 1 as tower/platform speakers and zone 2 with cockpit and bow speakers plus sub. I honestly don't know how this is hooked up from the factory, I had mine replaced a few days after delivery on the boat. RE the factory Fusion, I know my installer had to reach out to Fusion to make sure it was installed correctly.
Beginning to sound like this isn’t an easy DIY.
 

ericoask424

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Beginning to sound like this isn’t an easy DIY.
It’s really not too bad. Never installed a sound system in my life and just got done putting all JL in. Forum has a lot of good info
 

Mitya

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Awesome information here. Noob to the group and had similar questions. I also have a 2020 212s and think the polks are sufficient. I will likely add an amp to them when I add tower speakers. For now just adding a 12" jl m7.
 

212s

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Awesome information here. Noob to the group and had similar questions. I also have a 2020 212s and think the polks are sufficient. I will likely add an amp to them when I add tower speakers. For now just adding a 12" jl m7.
Just pulled the radio out today to see what's in there and found all the RCA's intact - no need to buy a harness - Yamaha must be listening. Will be installing the JL Audio MX500/4 Monday to run all six Polk speakers, cockpit and bow on channels 1/2 in parallel, and the rears on ch 3/4. This will allow me to isolate the swim platform while moving to turn them off, and the amp has plenty of power to run 6 speakers. The Connext screen has fade control so should be able to use it directly from the joystick. Radio pulled out below:
20200628_173948.jpg
 
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