210 FSH Engine Upgrades

[brian86992]

Alright I'm going to ask some dumb and controversial questions. How do we get more power from the 210?

Same hull as the 212x, right? Can you stick 1.8s in it? What would that require? Are the pumps the same? Engine mounts? How about squeezing more power out of the TR1s? Found one other thread on here discussing the Riva tuner but didn't hear specifically about the FSH.

Don't care too much about top speed, really looking for more ability to get on a plane with crew and ballast for wake boarding.

 

[Dixie Highway]

I haven’t had much luck yet, looking at Riva Tuner and impeller changes, but in all honesty my next boat will likely be bigger and an outboard in 5-6 years.

 

[Liveto99]

I don’t know I just really don’t know. I do believe that the 1.8 ths have a larger pump I’m pretty sure of that. I guess you could steal two Jetski’s with the 1.8 and supercharger in them and do the switch to keep the cost down. No one on here has put 1.8 in a FSH 21 yet that I know of no one on here has put 1.8 in a FSH 21 yet that I know of. To do it legally it’s probably $30,000.

 

[mkbcaptain]

I’ll be watching ????

 

[scokill]

Lemmon won't be worth the squeeze. Just get a new or different boat.

 

[El Comandante]

silly me, I thought all 21's were twin screw...err jets.

 

[El Comandante]

I haven’t had much luck yet, looking at Riva Tuner and impeller changes, but in all honesty my next boat will likely be bigger and an outboard in 5-6 years.

Interesting as I am considering going from IO/OB style to jet. Can you elaborate on why youre going back to OB? Thanks.

 

[Dixie Highway]

Going back to an OB boat is due to my desire to have offshore capability in a 24'-26' (or bigger) boat. You are pretty much limited to an OB in that size and description, though I have seen a few old inboard builds like that.

 

[HangOutdoors]

@Dixie Highway If you go big enough then you can just keep your FSH on the new boats back deck with a hoist for an inshore runabout. Seen this on a few large yachts out my way, ridiculous.

 

[Dixie Highway]

That will depend on my luck in the lottery I suppose. FSH would make a FANTASTIC yacht tender....

 

[El Comandante]

Going back to an OB boat is due to my desire to have offshore capability in a 24'-26' (or bigger) boat. You are pretty much limited to an OB in that size and description, though I have seen a few old inboard builds like that.

Yup. Personally I feel 23ft and above twin engines are necessary especially if running offshore.

Check out Sea Pro w Zuke outboards.

 

[Scottintexas]

maybe you could repitch your impellers ?? maybe the lucky 13 cones ??

those might give you more torque ?

Swatski had an AR190 that he did some impeller/cone work on, I think he used the Riva tuner on his 1.8l also, you'd have to search some of his old posts to confirm,


.

 

[Stubok]

Bumping this old thread. Anyone do any cone (lucky 13 etc) or other upgrades (like ribbon delete) to a 210 FSH?

I am interesting in reducing the drop in pull during cornering, not necessarily looking for more power or top speed at this time. I primarily boat with wife and two young boys. Maybe in future when I start pulling toys.

I did read somewhere that Yamaha used the TR1 engine block in a snow sled and it was boosted some how, but I don’t know more than that.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Bumping this old thread. Anyone do any cone (lucky 13 etc) or other upgrades (like ribbon delete) to a 210 FSH?

I am interesting in reducing the drop in pull during cornering, not necessarily looking for more power or top speed at this time. I primarily boat with wife and two young boys. Maybe in future when I start pulling toys.

I did read somewhere that Yamaha used the TR1 engine block in a snow sled and it was boosted some how, but I don’t know more than that.

The snow sled versions are turbo charged.

 

[Stubok]

The snow sled versions are turbo charged.

Well that rules that out then.

I’m probably going to experiment with cone upgrades to see if I can improve the pull in cornering.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Well that rules that out then.

I’m probably going to experiment with cone upgrades to see if I can improve the pull in cornering.

Very respectfully submitted,

At least on my boat, cavitation is not the issue, its power. I mainly operate at 5000’ above msl with density altitudes in the summer approaching 8000’ when it is hot, which is a power loss of 27-30%. The little TR-1’s are not super powerful to begin with, and losing over 27hp out of 111 hp is very noticeable.

I find that I can keep my speed up pretty well if I just make wider, more arcing turns. If you are running at best cruise, you will still have some hp on tap to add in when making turns. If you are at or near WOT and you make turns, again my experience up at altitude, you are going to really feel the slow down.

I did run an experiment the other day. I made a couple of WOT passes, one up wind, the other down wind noting the max rpm’s. And just for the heck of it I pulled the air cleaners out and repeated the passes. I picked 250-300 rpms just by pulling the air cleaners, they were not oily or otherwise clogged. So when I got home I ordered up a set of RIVA K&N drop in replacement filters to see how that would work.

When I talked with RIVA last year about a ECM tune up and removing the anti back fire screen often referred to as a ribbon and or ribbon delete.etc… I was told there really isn’t anything to be gained by the ribbon delete, and I could run the K&N filters for a little improvement. Was also told that yes you can get a little bit of power out with a reflash of the ECM but gains were very small from what I remember. I have the YES extended warranty and I am very averse to an ECM reflash or deleting the ribbon due to possibly voiding the warranty.

I do not know where you are boating at, but, if your engines are not reaching 8000 rpms at WOT by a good margin like mine were which was 6500-6800 rpms, then getting your impellers re pitched to achieve the rated rpms of 8000 or close to that will guarantee you are getting the most hp available out of your engines. As I mentioned in another thread the other day, with my repitched impellers, at the 5000’ lake on a 95* day I now get 7500 rpms, and at the 3200’ lake on a 95* day I now get 8000 rpms and 41 mph on the water wheel with 3 people and their gear on the boat.

 

[Stubok]

I’m in Austin, TX so about 500’ above sea level.

After break in, but before 1st oil change I was getting 7300rpm on Port and 7500rpm on starboard. Since oil change I was getting 7400 on port and 7200 on starboard. Checked the oil level and both were just over the full line. So parked and positioned trailer so that both engines are level (placed a spirit level on the head cover). Ran engines for a minute while doing a flush and then vacuumed a couple ounces out each engine to get the level to a 1/4” below the full line. Hopefully that gets both back above 7500rpm.

hopefully I don’t have to remove impellers, seems like a bigger job.

I could certainly see how the stock filter and ribbon (spark arrestor) would be a drag on intake airflow. It’s a pity it’s such a pain to remove the ribbon or I’d have it out for sure.

 

[HangOutdoors]

I’m in Austin, TX so about 500’ above sea level.

After break in, but before 1st oil change I was getting 7300rpm on Port and 7500rpm on starboard. Since oil change I was getting 7400 on port and 7200 on starboard. Checked the oil level and both were just over the full line. So parked and positioned trailer so that both engines are level (placed a spirit level on the head cover). Ran engines for a minute while doing a flush and then vacuumed a couple ounces out each engine to get the level to a 1/4” below the full line. Hopefully that gets both back above 7500rpm.

hopefully I don’t have to remove impellers, seems like a bigger job.

I could certainly see how the stock filter and ribbon (spark arrestor) would be a drag on intake airflow. It’s a pity it’s such a pain to remove the ribbon or I’d have it out for sure.

Your oil should be half way between Low and Mid otherwise it will bleed off RPM's. So basically a quarter inch or so above Low is optimum. You still may have too much in there.