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212SE Audio Ground Loop

orionone

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Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2022
Boat Model
212SE
Boat Length
21
I added an amp and two tower speakers and I can’t seem to solve this ground loop issue. Buzzing when powered on, clears when you play music. Sometimes is clears from turning the blower on and off.

The stock amp and receiver are powered/grounded by the stock harness. The new/second amp has new power/ground wires. I tried wiring the receiver ground to the new amp ground without luck. What’s the best method here to get these all on the same ground? Receiver ground to new amp ground wire didn’t resolve the issue.
 

orionone

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Yamaha
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2022
Boat Model
212SE
Boat Length
21
Wet Sounds WW-FUSE-DIST-BLOCK 4-Position ANL Fuse/Ground Block Combo. You can use one side for power the other for ground



View attachment 165666
Thank you, I am hesitant to cut into the stock harness to ground the stock amp and receiver to the same distribution block. I am using one similar currently only for the new amp.

I came across this post on Facebook, I found it very informative and will be trying these testing techniques soon:

First eliminate the head unit for noise by unplugging your rca's at your amps.

If noise is gone, reconnect and unplug again but this time at the head unit. You'll now eliminate the fact the noise could be picked by the interference through the rca's. If sound is gone again, with rca's unplugged from head unit, take a small.piece of wire and touch the head unit chassis to the rca ground at the head unit. If you hear a change or the noise is gone, you have a ground loop and adding that little wire can be used if noise is gone. If noise goes away a little bit using the little wire, that's not the main issue. Now, go to the amp. Use same little ground wire and touch to rca ground and amps grounding point where amps ground wire connects to amp. Not the ground point where the wire picks up power from.

If noise goes away, there's your problem, a ground loop.. if it does not go away,, ground rca's to the main ground point where amps gets its main connection from, where ever that is. (I.E. the battery, the engine, doesn't matter)

See if noise is gone. If not, I'd try a different set of rca's just run straight from the amps to the radio without 'installing' them. Just run across the floor of the boat and see if a different brand works. If not, your ground loop is bad and may require an rca isolator. But... just a heads up if you use one though... many amps (most actually) use a ground at the rca for proper operation of the preamp. One more thing, if your gain on the amp is set to high that the head units output at 'clip' doesn't match (gain to high vs output capability of head unit) You can get the noise you are experiencing. I've been in this business since 1989 and own a car audio manufacturing company so I have a pretty tight grasp of this situation. Also... if you have a Pioneer head unit, it may have a 200 ohm rca ground which is a problem of its own. Why does it have it?? Because decades ago Pioneer realized most DIY installers do it wrong and have poor grounds. They built in resistance to help eliminate that noise you hear by defaulting a poor ground. Audio control did it too but gave the end user a switch from 200 ohms to zero in case their equipment was installed correctly. Anyway, good luck fixing it. Should not be difficult.
 

Julian

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I added an amp and two tower speakers and I can’t seem to solve this ground loop issue. Buzzing when powered on, clears when you play music. Sometimes is clears from turning the blower on and off.

The stock amp and receiver are powered/grounded by the stock harness. The new/second amp has new power/ground wires. I tried wiring the receiver ground to the new amp ground without luck. What’s the best method here to get these all on the same ground? Receiver ground to new amp ground wire didn’t resolve the issue.
Do you have a ground bus bar? I have one similar to the one below (not my photo). All my ground wires run to it, then one cable from this to each battery.

1634737394898.png
 

jocolo21

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Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2021
Boat Model
252SE
Boat Length
25
Thank you, I am hesitant to cut into the stock harness to ground the stock amp and receiver to the same distribution block. I am using one similar currently only for the new amp.

I came across this post on Facebook, I found it very informative and will be trying these testing techniques soon:
If the 212 is anything like the 252se you don’t have any rca, you coned is your head unit. What amp did you buy, like Julian said you should have a ground block by the engines.
 

orionone

Well-Known Member
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54
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Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2022
Boat Model
212SE
Boat Length
21
If the 212 is anything like the 252se you don’t have any rca, you coned is your head unit. What amp did you buy, like Julian said you should have a ground block by the engines.
That right we have a Yamaha spec’d HTX-4 amp that came with the boat. I spliced channels 3&4 from the stock harness to use for the new/second amp. Zone 1 is now wired to all stock internal speakers, Zone 2/Swimdeck is for the new amp and tower speakers. The new amp is a wet sounds micro-4 bridged.
 

jocolo21

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Year
2021
Boat Model
252SE
Boat Length
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The lc2 has a regular rca output for amp and another for bass, its a line druver so it will keep you voltage output at a current voltage plus conver you speaker wire to rca. I dont use it any longer i bypassed the connex with fussionhead unit and remote
 
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