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Adding 12v outlets and USB chargers

steined

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2013
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I installed a couple of 12v and USB chargers in various locations around the boat.

Below is the 12v outlet I added to the passenger storage tray above the head. To cut this out, I used the hole saw to start a pilot hole on the inside of the tray to make sure I had it where I wanted it, then flipped it over and cut the plastic out from behind. If you are gentle enough you won't cut the vinyl that is wrapped and can then just fold it under the socket. I plan on drilling a small hole for power and ground and routing it behind the panel in the head.

20140509_093044.jpg 20140509_093014.jpg 20140509_093106.jpg

Not shown is the USB charger in the bottom of the glove box. It was a tight fit and I got lucky. I'd probably re do it by drilling in the side of the box facing aft instead of on the bottom. I put USB ports there to be able to charge phones while stored in there.

I also am installing a 12v port above the battery vent in the aft part of the cockpit. This will allow for inflators, etc in the back vs in the middle of the boat.

It would be nice if Yamaha would put these in Stock. Maybe just 12v ports.

Here are the items I used.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001U4ZZPK/ref=oh_details_o04_s01_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0082CXEI8/ref=oh_details_o04_s01_i05?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

Andy S

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Nice job! I also added power outlets and a USB charging outlet to my boat a couple of seasons ago. These are a necessary additions since well have a lot of battery powered toys.
 

dan144k

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when I installed some power outlets.
I used some extension cords for the wiring under the seats. Cut the ends off and strip as needed.
I figured the wire is protected inside the extension cord covering.
Been using modified, extension cords for 12 volts throughout the boat.
It was easier than running plastic corrugated conduit with a few wires inside.
 

steined

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when I installed some power outlets.
I used some extension cords for the wiring under the seats. Cut the ends off and strip as needed.
I figured the wire is protected inside the extension cord covering.
Been using modified, extension cords for 12 volts throughout the boat.
It was easier than running plastic corrugated conduit with a few wires inside.
Not a bad idea. I may consider that. I haven't run the wires for these yet. Thanks!
 

Andy S

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I powered two of my outlets from directly from the battery, each fused, instead of pulling power from the helm. The additional one I put on the helm I taped the power from the factory power outlet.
 

steined

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I powered two of my outlets from directly from the battery, each fused, instead of pulling power from the helm. The additional one I put on the helm I taped the power from the factory power outlet.
Yeah I have a fused lead coming from the house battery switch that will feed these. Just trying to decide if I want a bus or just a terminal.
 

dan144k

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When I added my second battery and battery switch I also added a 12 block fuse. In the corner by the batteries, So it is easy to add accessories in the future. LED lights, 12volt outlets, and trim tabs. And whenever you pull wires across boat, pull an extra unused wire for a future pull if needed.
Blue Sea Systems 5026 ST Blade Fuse Block with Cover
 

SCSTWG

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What are you using for wiring to the 12v devices and how are you protecting it? What was the wiring from the block to the house battery?


When I added my second battery and battery switch I also added a 12 block fuse. In the corner by the batteries, So it is easy to add accessories in the future. LED lights, 12volt outlets, and trim tabs. And whenever you pull wires across boat, pull an extra unused wire for a future pull if needed.
Blue Sea Systems 5026 ST Blade Fuse Block with Cover
 

dan144k

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I installed these on my batteries.
Began with the 100 amp fuses, they blew while starting after a long day on water, So I installed the 200 amp fuses.
They are for an emergency wiring short to avoid a boat fire.
I understand they are probably properly rated to wire sizes.

Blue Sea Systems 5191 Fuse Block Terminal 30-300 AMP
Then I wired both batteries to the selector switch.
I use a dual charger when on trailer.

Sorry for the bold, it wont turn off.

then wired
Positive Insulated Battery Power Junction Post Block 3/8 Lug X 16 (Red)
Used 4 wires (from memory)
1. Port engine starter
2. starboard engine starter
3. Battery switch
4. wire to fuse block

My battery use
1st battery; powers everything
2nd battery; wired directly to 2nd bilge with float built in. (for when boat in water over night)
and emergency backup battery thru battery switch.

 

jawsf16

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My head unit charges the USB device when connected. Slick install though!
 

jetboater4life

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When I added my second battery and battery switch I also added a 12 block fuse. In the corner by the batteries, So it is easy to add accessories in the future. LED lights, 12volt outlets, and trim tabs. And whenever you pull wires across boat, pull an extra unused wire for a future pull if needed.
Blue Sea Systems 5026 ST Blade Fuse Block with Cover
I bought the same one on amazon for $41. I could have gone with the 6 circuit for 5 bucks less but thought having twice as many fusable circuits will have me covered in the upgrade category.
 

4x15mph

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Real nice USB and 12 volt chargers. I have a single battery, with jump box as my spare, and would like to add 1 or 2 of these 12v adapters around the boat. Can I tap into the power of my other standard 12v adapter that is in the glove box? Would there be any downside to doing this?
 

steined

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Real nice USB and 12 volt chargers. I have a single battery, with jump box as my spare, and would like to add 1 or 2 of these 12v adapters around the boat. Can I tap into the power of my other standard 12v adapter that is in the glove box? Would there be any downside to doing this?
The only downside is the combined usage limits. Don't want to run too much draw off of it. There will likely be a 10 amp fuse if I had to guess. So just make sure you aren't running two power intensive items like inflator and an inverter at the same time. USB chargers should be fine. They only draw probably 11 watts per port max. A 10 amp fuse should be good for 120 or so watts.
 

steined

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Oh I should note, there is a parasitic draw from the USB chargers, I think 15mA. I'll manage through the battery switch. It would take a long time for 15mA to draw down a 225AH battery though!
 

Julian

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steined

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What size wiring are you guys using for your accessories? I was considering 12 ga for the 12v sockets (I have very short runs < 10ft). Do you guys use duplex wire like this: http://www.ancorproducts.com/en/products/wire-and-cable/multi-conductor/safety-duplex-cable or run 2 wires and loom it?

I'm buying the Blue Sea 5026 mentioned earlier, it looks great and like total overkill :thumbsup:. I'm also buying ring terminals and female spade connectors to connect them to the sockets and chargers: http://www.ancorproducts.com/en/products/terminals/disconnects/fully-insulated.

Can you guys think of anything else I should be considering? It looks like the 5026 will provide a negative bus for me so no need for that. I have marine heat shrink as well.
 

Julian

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As long as you only run one socket on 12 ga you'll be fine....go to 10 or 8 if you plan to run 2 or something else on the same circuit (based on what I looked up in terms of amp capacity)
 

maboat

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Oh I should note, there is a parasitic draw from the USB chargers, I think 15mA. I'll manage through the battery switch. It would take a long time for 15mA to draw down a 225AH battery though!
This is an excellent point and should always be considered.

While the current draw is low, its still a drain on the battery and should be wired into a switched circuit. Doesn't need to be a switch at the helm and could be off the main battery switch, but still able to switch it off some way.
 

Leif

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I have a problem that I have a 2019 Yamaha 242x e and a 12-volt Outlet isn't working I was looking to know if somebody knows where the fuse is
 

Julian

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