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Anchors & Anchoring

zipper

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Just the 5/16” X 6’ pinner chain that came with the 300’ of anchor rode that I ordered… my plan is to increase the chain size to 3/8” and use 10’ of it. I was surprised that this little anchor has held as well as it did.
That is a substantial ground tackle. On our Beneteau with a windlass, I installed 20' of 5/16' G4 galv. chain with 200' of 9/16" 3-strand nylon spliced to the chain, no shackle, to feed thru the gypsy of the windlass. Anchor is a 22# Delta plow style anchor. It holds. I also rigged an anchor ball and trip line to mark the location and to pull out backwards if it gets fouled.

20200807_194538.jpg

Ya, the anchor locker was a little dirty.

20200618_070800.jpg

In the diagram above, the guy should be pulling as he passes over the the anchor to pull it out backwards.
 

kgower

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Just the 5/16” X 6’ pinner chain that came with the 300’ of anchor rode that I ordered… my plan is to increase the chain size to 3/8” and use 10’ of it. I was surprised that this little anchor has held as well as it did.
Ordered a coated chain yesterday but only saw them in 5' lengths on Amazon yesterday. Can you get 10" or do I have to put two chains together?
 

FSH 210 Sport

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Ordered a coated chain yesterday but only saw them in 5' lengths on Amazon yesterday. Can you get 10" or do I have to put two chains together?
Im sure one could find chain at the local hardware/ DIY store….. I got an email from West Marine yesterday about a site sale and one section was on anchoring and they offer chain by the foot in several sizes. I’m not sure about coated chain in 10’ lengths….

 
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FSH 210 Sport

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That is a substantial ground tackle. On our Beneteau with a windlass, I installed 20' of 5/16' G4 galv. chain with 200' of 9/16" 3-strand nylon spliced to the chain, no shackle, to feed thru the gypsy of the windlass. Anchor is a 22# Delta plow style anchor. It holds. I also rigged an anchor ball and trip line to mark the location and to pull out backwards if it gets fouled.

View attachment 157180

Ya, the anchor locker was a little dirty.

View attachment 157179

In the diagram above, the guy should be pulling as he passes over the the anchor to pull it out backwards.
That’s an awesome set up you have on your Beneteau ! Having a trip line is a good way to successfully retrieve your anchor!

After reading the posts here I learned that I would need a lot of rode to anchor in some deep water to drop fish for lake trout with minnows so I went with 300’ of 3/8”yacht braid rode. The anchor locker is pretty big on my FSH, it could easily handle another 300’ of rode and still have room to store my anchor, drift anchor / drogue as well as some other items.

I’m thinking of getting the larger 9 lb version of the anchor (it will fit in the OEM holder in the locker, the 5lb has to lay in the locker ) I have and use the 5lb one for a stern anchor.

Just went and looked at my orders…the chain I have is 1/4” aka pinner chain.

This rode is also available in 1/2” x 600’

I forgot to mention, that last time I used my anchor it was a muddy bottom, when I first put the anchor out it started to slip, I gave the rode a pretty good yank and it set immediately and then never slipped, I realized then that I needed heavier chain like my Dad used to use when I was a kid.
 
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Matt Phillips

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I use a small box anchor on my 24'. The first season I had a few instances of slipping due to waves and wind on Lake Tahoe. Rather than buy a whole new kit and fuss with setting that up, I went to West Marine and bought about 9-10' of anchor chain and put that on it. What I was finding is that even with a 3:1 scope, the wave action would life the arm up on the anchor and cause it to lose it's bite in the sand. The chain gives it enough room now between the bobbing line and the anchor that it sets and stays.

For storage (and I got this idea from someone on here but I don't recall who) I went to the hardware store, bought a piece of rebar and cut it to the length of the hanging area in the anchor locker. I also spray painted the rebar to keep it from rusting. slide the rebar through the folder box anchor and put it tines forward into the locker .. it fits perfectly.

Two other tips: 1) at the end of your trip, make sure to remove your anchor line and lay it about the sole of the boat so that wet line can dry out - this will keep it from rotting in that wet compartment. 2) I take a sharpie and color a 1" band not the line at 10 feet, and then two 1" bands at 20 feet, and so on until 50'. this way when we let out line, I know exactly how much is out.
 

Jimmers

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I use a small box anchor on my 24'. The first season I had a few instances of slipping due to waves and wind on Lake Tahoe. Rather than buy a whole new kit and fuss with setting that up, I went to West Marine and bought about 9-10' of anchor chain and put that on it. What I was finding is that even with a 3:1 scope, the wave action would life the arm up on the anchor and cause it to lose it's bite in the sand. The chain gives it enough room now between the bobbing line and the anchor that it sets and stays.

For storage (and I got this idea from someone on here but I don't recall who) I went to the hardware store, bought a piece of rebar and cut it to the length of the hanging area in the anchor locker. I also spray painted the rebar to keep it from rusting. slide the rebar through the folder box anchor and put it tines forward into the locker .. it fits perfectly.

Two other tips: 1) at the end of your trip, make sure to remove your anchor line and lay it about the sole of the boat so that wet line can dry out - this will keep it from rotting in that wet compartment. 2) I take a sharpie and color a 1" band not the line at 10 feet, and then two 1" bands at 20 feet, and so on until 50'. this way when we let out line, I know exactly how much is out.
Please post pictures, I don know what you mean. I have a box anchor on order and expect it next week..
 

jEt_jAk

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Tried all types of anchors from fluke to mushroom, had a fortress also. By far the best has been the Mantus. Not even close. Rarely does it even budge.

Did not have great luck with some of the fluke style anchors even with chain. Can get windy around here sometimes and they just do not hold for me.
 

2kwik4u

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Have a question for the anchoring gurus.

Had a couple times in my last few outings where a strong breeze has made the boat "swing" from side to side while at anchor. I'm using a 22lb Navy Anchor, and it holds exceptionally well for me, but the boat swinging has caused some issues for us.

I've tried more and less rode payed out. Everything from 25' out in 15' of water to a full 100' out in 15ft water. Even rigged the anchor through the bow eye in an attempt to get the line to pull on the centerline of the boat. No luck.

Aside from carrying a second anchor and securing the stern as well as the bow, is there anything I can do?

Follow up question. Is there any weight savings in moving to a fluke style anchor with appropriate length of chain as compared to my 22lb Navy Anchor? I feel like it's mostly likely a wash or close to it, and that I might save 10lbs at most. My 190 is sensitive to bow weight, and I can't get the weight any more poorly placed than the anchor compartment. Any thoughts?
 

Babin Farms

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Sounds like you need to have an anchor off the Stern to keep your boat in one spot and from swinging back-and-forth. Just be careful anchoring from the stern and always have a knife readily available to cut the rope in case the front line breaks. As far as weight savings changing to a fluke & chain I think it’s probably going to be a wash
 

RobbieO

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tdonoughue

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Of course I agree on the advice as to scope and plenty of rode. But I am curious: I had always read and then did make sure I set the anchor properly, especially with a fluked anchor. With my present box anchor, it is not as needed. But with any fluked anchor, I always found it worked best if you deploy it while facing into the wind, then let the wind take you back, tie off at the proper scope, then go gently in reverse (at least the first detent--maybe a little more) to set the anchor. Then it holds. Sure, the wind may shift and you may lose the set, but even that is rare if properly set (you basically need to get a 100 deg + wind direction change).

When retrieving the anchor, power up directly over it as you pull up the line. Then the anchor should release and come right up. If not, going forward a bit more will get it.

So are people doing this and then still having issues that require more chain? Or is the chain making it so that it self-sets better?

Thanks.
 

Babin Farms

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Of course I agree on the advice as to scope and plenty of rode. But I am curious: I had always read and then did make sure I set the anchor properly, especially with a fluked anchor. With my present box anchor, it is not as needed. But with any fluked anchor, I always found it worked best if you deploy it while facing into the wind, then let the wind take you back, tie off at the proper scope, then go gently in reverse (at least the first detent--maybe a little more) to set the anchor. Then it holds. Sure, the wind may shift and you may lose the set, but even that is rare if properly set (you basically need to get a 100 deg + wind direction change).

When retrieving the anchor, power up directly over it as you pull up the line. Then the anchor should release and come right up. If not, going forward a bit more will get it.

So are people doing this and then still having issues that require more chain? Or is the chain making it so that it self-sets better?

Thanks.
I think it’s a combination of not enough rode & not enough or heavy enough chain leader. Plus there is little patience if it doesn’t grab the first time when it’s “thrown” which usually ends up with it tangled in the chain or rope. I’ve been guilty of throwing it but most times not. Very few realize that you just drop it over the side and they’ll give it a good heave as far as they can. I love my fluke anchor even though when you look at it , it looks small but after it digs good it holds tight.
 

J-RAD

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Threw my danforth fluke anchor out last week in 35ft deep water to hold us in place while the kids played. Felt it drop to the bottom then... waited for the line to tighten up as the breeze pushed us... then waited... then waited some more... the line never tightened up... began to pull in the line which felt lighter for some reason. Reason: only chain, no anchor. Donated my first anchor to the lakebed.

I ordered a similar danforth to replace it. They work fine for the muddy bottom lakes we frequent. I decided to add a shore spike to the order to hopefully make anchoring the rear towards the beach quicker and easier.
 

Babin Farms

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This is what I use for shallow anchoring at the sandbar or beach.
A926128A-B2F4-4278-B352-DFD4B8112D48.jpeg
I bent it in the middle at about a 30*angle and this makes it easy to screw in by hand without a pipe or other bar. Cheap, easy and can get at your local farm store or online.

 

zipper

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Threw my danforth fluke anchor out last week in 35ft deep water to hold us in place while the kids played. Felt it drop to the bottom then... waited for the line to tighten up as the breeze pushed us... then waited... then waited some more... the line never tightened up... began to pull in the line which felt lighter for some reason. Reason: only chain, no anchor. Donated my first anchor to the lakebed.

I ordered a similar danforth to replace it. They work fine for the muddy bottom lakes we frequent. I decided to add a shore spike to the order to hopefully make anchoring the rear towards the beach quicker and easier.
That sucks...How was the shackle pin locked?
 

zipper

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Have a question for the anchoring gurus.

Had a couple times in my last few outings where a strong breeze has made the boat "swing" from side to side while at anchor. I'm using a 22lb Navy Anchor, and it holds exceptionally well for me, but the boat swinging has caused some issues for us.

I've tried more and less rode payed out. Everything from 25' out in 15' of water to a full 100' out in 15ft water. Even rigged the anchor through the bow eye in an attempt to get the line to pull on the centerline of the boat. No luck.

Aside from carrying a second anchor and securing the stern as well as the bow, is there anything I can do?

Follow up question. Is there any weight savings in moving to a fluke style anchor with appropriate length of chain as compared to my 22lb Navy Anchor? I feel like it's mostly likely a wash or close to it, and that I might save 10lbs at most. My 190 is sensitive to bow weight, and I can't get the weight any more poorly placed than the anchor compartment. Any thoughts?
To reduce swing/yaw, try using a Danik hook attached to the anchor line and clips to the bow eye, or rig a bridle between the bow cleats with a ring in the center to clip the hook to, instead of tying off to an off centered bow cleat. On the sailboat we use an anchor riding sail aft. Just be aware of the movement of other boats near you. In the yamaha at the beach in shallow water we use a stern anchor, but the sailboat is anchored in 20' or more of water and a stern anchor can be a PITA.

.

20210720_065625.jpg

Edit: There will always be some asymetrical factor of/on the boat. That windage will make it swing. The wind coming in off the port bow and not head on, even those towels drying on the tower can catch wind.
 
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2kwik4u

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@zipper I tried setting up a "makeshift" bridle the other day. I either did it wrong, or it didn't help much.

I took a dock line and tied a bowline in one end and used the other braided end as is. I put each end on a bow cleat, one port, one starboard. I had the anchor already set with ~4:1 scope (guessed at 20ft depth, had about 80' of line out.....all guesstimates). I took the anchor line and tied a quick loop in it, and passed the dock line through the loop. Made for a "rope one rope" connection, which I know isn't great, but it was a test for a short period. This created my sort of makeshift bridle (had no idea what to call it before now), however it was largely ineffective for me. Not sure if the rope on rope interface didn't let it slip/slide along the bridle, or maybe my boat is just too short in general to really establish a "direction" in the wind.

It wasn't even an aggressive wind either. I'm gonna guess 10-12mph gusts with a light breeze in the 7-8mph range. Just a light front moving through with a few clouds. Nothing major. Not sure a drift anchor would help me much considering I'm on an inland lake, and not in an active current waterway. If there is a current it's usually overridden by even a light breeze.
 

Babin Farms

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@zipper I tried setting up a "makeshift" bridle the other day. I either did it wrong, or it didn't help much.

I took a dock line and tied a bowline in one end and used the other braided end as is. I put each end on a bow cleat, one port, one starboard. I had the anchor already set with ~4:1 scope (guessed at 20ft depth, had about 80' of line out.....all guesstimates). I took the anchor line and tied a quick loop in it, and passed the dock line through the loop. Made for a "rope one rope" connection, which I know isn't great, but it was a test for a short period. This created my sort of makeshift bridle (had no idea what to call it before now), however it was largely ineffective for me. Not sure if the rope on rope interface didn't let it slip/slide along the bridle, or maybe my boat is just too short in general to really establish a "direction" in the wind.

It wasn't even an aggressive wind either. I'm gonna guess 10-12mph gusts with a light breeze in the 7-8mph range. Just a light front moving through with a few clouds. Nothing major. Not sure a drift anchor would help me much considering I'm on an inland lake, and not in an active current waterway. If there is a current it's usually overridden by even a light breeze.
If you have fins or a rudder on for the steering you need to make sure the steering wheel is straight otherwise it will want to turn the boat due to the current.
 
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