AR192 - Fuse Block Installs

[ArmyChief]

O.k. boys & girls, in this installment of "Making your boat YOURS". We will be adding two fuse blocks for distributing power to electronic add-on's.

Determine how many electrical circuits you may need.

So, before we start...here's what you will need:

2 - Blue Sea Systems 5025 ST Blade Fuse Block - 6 Circuits with Negative Bus and Cover

Label kit if you're a perfectionist:

http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Syst...49905&sr=8-1&keywords=blue+sea+8214+label+kit

Make sure you get the block with negative bus bar included !

http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Syst...434645889&sr=8-2&keywords=blue+sea+fuse+block

Now, for only $7 more you can get the 12 Circuit block...so that's what I installed...YMMV

http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Syst...434645889&sr=8-1&keywords=blue+sea+fuse+block



These blocks are rated for 100 amps. Using the amperage chart, we can see 6 AWG will work fine for the power FEED to the block. I ordered my wire from:

https://tinnedmarinewire.com/wire/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=3

You DEFINITELY want to use TINNED wire. It meets codes for the water, resistant to corrosion. Will be good to have documented in case of fire. It's not REALLY that much more to do it RIGHT!

Also, would be a good idea to have a soldering gun (terminals ARE crimp....but I solder and heatshrink EVERYTHING:

http://www.amazon.com/Weller-8200PK...&qid=1434649004&sr=8-2&keywords=soldering+gun

Various terminals:

http://www.harborfreight.com/305-piece-solderless-terminal-kit-67684.html

Heatshink:

http://www.harborfreight.com/42-piece-marine-heat-shrink-tubing-67598.html

Cable/Wire Ties (I tied my wire to existing wires running forward, some may want ties with screw holes in them)

http://www.harborfreight.com/11-inch-black-cable-ties-pack-of-100-34637.html

Wire loom & insertion tool (to protect the wiring)...tool is optional..but it makes it EASY

http://www.amazon.com/Wire-Loom-Cable-Insertion-Tool/dp/B005DTKNZU

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias=automotive&field-keywords=split+loom

NYLON/PLASTIC/FIBERGLASS Fishtape (steel is cheaper...but harder to work with and MIGHT touch something electrical!:

http://www.harborfreight.com/50-ft-nylon-fish-tape-66505.html



For the sub panel I ran 12 AWG, which can handle 41 amps. Since I was only planning to install a chartplotter, VHF and possibly 12 VDC outlet at the helm, that was enough. I just used one of the fused circuits in the main block to feed my sub block up front (30A max per spec sheet). I can move that wire down to main batt studs and install a 50 amp CB to feed the front sub panel if I need more amps!. If you're planning more items and need more current. Then you'll need the appropriate gauge wire, a CB/Fuse rated at about 20% higher than the anticipated load to feed the forward sub panel.



I installed mine inches away from my battery switch, so I did not use a 125 amp fuse to the block. If you locate this somewhere else, always install a high amp fuse or marine certified circuit breaker !





Various stainless steel screws (I bought the $119 set from West Marine, which I don't see on their website, but was at my local store).

It looks like the same kit as:

http://www.amazon.com/SeaSense-1120...34646316&sr=8-13&keywords=stainless+screw+kit

Drill & bits

Socket set & wrenches

O.k, so now that you've dented your credit card some more..let's get started.

So, like I said, I installed my main block right next to the battery switch and tapped the power from the switch.



I then ran the 12 AWG wire in the loom rear into the engine compartment, to the STBD rear area under the seat. Using the fishtape, I pulled my wire up to the helm station. Installed my sub block inside my NEW access hatch.

https://jetboaters.net/threads/ar-192-starboard-addition-of-access-hatch.6154/#post-106196

Makes it easy to service

Hope you enjoyed today's write up and stay tuned for another installment... The Grill!

 

[David D]

I just did the same project ... these photos are helpful ... and encouraging to those of us who are (were) more tentative about tackling something like this. It ends up being an easy project -- just don't do it in the hot sun. It's amazing how hot a boat gets in the sun when you're not on the water, even with white interior!

 

[tdonoughue]

Very nice install and write-up! Thanks for that.

I was interested in your comment that you skipped the fuse because of the short distance. I put my single fuse block back by the batteries. I went ahead and installed fuse blocks on the posts with this:

https://www.bluesea.com/products/5191/MRBF_Terminal_Fuse_Block_-_30_to_300A

That way no matter what I connect (or even if I just hit a terminal with a crescent wrench--NOT that that has EVER happened, er...) at least I have the batteries protected from a short. That way I don't have to decide whether the distance is too short to waste a fuse on...

 

[ArmyChief]

Very nice install and write-up! Thanks for that.

I was interested in your comment that you skipped the fuse because of the short distance. I put my single fuse block back by the batteries. I went ahead and installed fuse blocks on the posts with this:

https://www.bluesea.com/products/5191/MRBF_Terminal_Fuse_Block_-_30_to_300A

That way no matter what I connect (or even if I just hit a terminal with a crescent wrench--NOT that that has EVER happened, er...) at least I have the batteries protected from a short. That way I don't have to decide whether the distance is too short to waste a fuse on...

I like your addition on protection. I didn't see any protection from the factory. My wire is only inches long, connected to the battery switch. So, I thought I'd be fine.

I'll probably install something on the battery to protect the whole boat.

 

[bronze_10]

I am reviving this thread for personal completely selfish reasons. I have a fuse block and two spools of 10 gauge wire. I need to know what size or length screws i can use to mount the block to the inside storage areas without them being too long to hurt the fiber glass on the back side.

 

[ArmyChief]

@bronze_10,

I'm unsure on length due to the fact I bought the large West Marine screw kit. I just made determination based on length.

 

[bronze_10]

@bronze_10,

I'm unsure on length due to the fact I bought the large West Marine screw kit. I just made determination based on length.

I have NEVER asked a question here that has gone unanswered! I have faith!

 

[Julian]

I have NEVER asked a question here that has gone unanswered! I have faith!

OK....you are going to have to be more specific about the location you are referring to. I can't picture it!

 

[Julian]

@ArmyChief Excellent write up! I did a similar project this spring on the new boat (and did it only the old boat too). On the old boat I did put in a large fuse (actually a circuit breaker) between the block and the battery. On the new boat I have not yet put one in. I was thinking about it the same way you were....its only inches from the battery....and it is a fuse block...so why more fuses? The only reason I can come up with for needing it is if you overloaded each connection on the block (without blowing their fuses) and thus overloaded the main line. But this seems like a pretty far fetched scenario. Are we missing something? Even @tdonoughue 's example of hitting it with a crescent wrench MIGHT damage the battery a little (its not like you are going to hold it there long enough to melt anything) but not the wires. I guess one could come up with a similar example where you put something in that compartment that leans up against it and causes a short (but with the cover on and heat shrink....really?)....

Like you...I'll probably get a fuse/circuit breaker....but wonder if it really is a waste.....

 

[Speedling]

Awesome write up!

 

[ArmyChief]

@ArmyChief I was thinking about it the same way you were....its only inches from the battery....and it is a fuse block...so why more fuses? The only reason I can come up with for needing it is if you overloaded each connection on the block (without blowing their fuses) and thus overloaded the main line. But this seems like a pretty far fetched scenario. Are we missing something?

Nope, Since it's my boat, I know I'm not going to overload it. The circuit going to the helm station (the remote fuse block inside my installed hatch) only has a accessory 12VDC outlet an the Dragonfly chartplotter. I will probably install one when I sell it, or run out of projects at home to so . B TW, when I DO install a circuit breaker, this is what I will use. These are what we use in the military and they are top notch.

https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-CB1...37560&sr=8-1&keywords=Circuit+Breaker+100+Amp

@ArmyChiefLike you...I'll probably get a fuse/circuit breaker....but wonder if it really is a waste.....

 

[Bill D]

@bronze_10 Around my boat I used 3/4" screws to mount things on the plywood. For my fuse blocks, I used 1" because there was a pretty decent backplate on the block.

Where do you plan to mount the block? Make sure that you are mounting to plywood. Many of the compartment surfaces in my boat are just carpeted fiberglass. I have one behind the helm and one in the battery compartment (in nearly the same location @ArmyChief has pictured above).

 

[bronze_10]

I plan on running 10 gauge wire from the batter switch on the port side to behind the helm where I will install the fuse block.. haven't picked out the exact spot under there but somewhere back there where I can hook the charplotter, vhf radio and if I read it right a power connection to power the nmea 2000. Back bone I have on the boat now, purely by accident. All my components are nmea compatiable. I am going to instal an inline fuse just off the battery switch for now to protect against accident grounding of the hot wire.. never know what can happen and I want it fused just in case. Eventually when I decide if I am gonna put another small fuse block in that compartment or maybe just the breaker then I'll do some thing more perminate in there. I plan on doing something more, out of the way with the batteries this winter sometime but haven't worked that out specifically yet either.

 

[Julian]

@bronze_10 If I mount something to fiberglass, I try to use bolts with lock nuts on them. Can't always do that, but behind the helm I would think you should be able to.

@ArmyChief - That is exactly what I used on my last boat....worked well. I guess the point of them is to cover the unexpected, not the expected. So although we both plan to only put small items on these, who knows if they'll get cross wired/shorted and melt to a nearby wire? That would cause a bad situation, but the fused in the block would still blow well before the main line wire was overloaded and melted. Peace of mind knowing it is perfect is another plus for us anal folks!

 

[Julian]

By the way...you should probably take the AR192 out of the title, as many might think this is specific to your model, when it isn't and applies well to any boat wiring!