Battery recommendations

[Dami860]

I currently have a '24 AR190. I recently installed some polk db652s with a small kicker amp and I've stubbornly decided to forgo adding a second battery. I'm just curious, what can I upgrade my stock battery to that will better handle the additional load?

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

I currently have a '24 AR190. I recently installed some polk db652s with a small kicker amp and I've stubbornly decided to forgo adding a second battery. I'm just curious, what can I upgrade my stock battery to that will better handle the additional load?

Question, do you have an onboard charger to keep the battery charged while the boat is not in use?

Why would you not want to add a second house battery, its easy and keeps your start battery isolated.

There are a lot of threads on this site about adding batteries so just doing a search will give you a ton of results.

For sure you need to add a Victron Smart shunt so that you know what the state of charge is in your battery, and you need to have a jump pack on board if you are going to stay with a single battery.

 

[Dami860]

Question, do you have an onboard charger to keep the battery charged while the boat is not in use?

Why would you not want to add a second house battery, its easy and keeps your start battery isolated.

There are a lot of threads on this site about adding batteries so just doing a search will give you a ton of results.

For sure you need to add a Victron Smart shunt so that you know what the state of charge is in your battery, and you need to have a jump pack on board if you are going to stay with a single battery.

I don't currently have an onboard charger but I do monitor the voltage on the display screen. I do carry a jump pack with me. I just felt that there wasn't a lot of room for adding a 2nd battery and it didn't seem that simple to me, unless I just didn't come across the proper instructions.

It was told to me that these class D amps don't use a ton of juice unless you're blasting music at rest, but I'm all ears.

 

[Btsnhos]

I have a 195 and run a starter battery and two lithiums for the stereo. You have plenty of room. Search "DVSR" or "Blue-seas add a battery" for ideas

 

[Dami860]

I have a 195 and run a starter battery and two lithiums for the stereo. You have plenty of room. Search "DVSR" or "Blue-seas add a battery" for ideas

How do I know if I get the 120 amp or 65 amp Blue-seas add a battery?

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

I don't currently have an onboard charger but I do monitor the voltage on the display screen. I do carry a jump pack with me. I just felt that there wasn't a lot of room for adding a 2nd battery and it didn't seem that simple to me, unless I just didn't come across the proper instructions.

It was told to me that these class D amps don't use a ton of juice unless you're blasting music at rest, but I'm all ears.

You need to add an onboard charger. The charging system on your boat is not capable of properly charging your battery.

IF you’re going to stick with a single battery you need a dual purpose start / deep cycle battery.

IF you’re going to add a second battery, search the forums and there is a ton of information. I personally like the BEP marine switch that comes on the Yamaha boats, its compact and simple, start & house battery switches plus an emergency parallel switch and the dvsr is built into the cluster.

 

[Dami860]

You need to add an onboard charger. The charging system on your boat is not capable of properly charging your battery.

IF you’re going to stick with a single battery you need a dual purpose start / deep cycle battery.

IF you’re going to add a second battery, search the forums and there is a ton of information. I personally like the BEP marine switch that comes on the Yamaha boats, its compact and simple, start & house battery switches plus an emergency parallel switch and the dvsr is built into the cluster.

Thanks for your intel. If I forgo a second battery, would you recommend both the onboard charger ie. norco genius10 AND a dual purpose start / deep cycle battery?

 

[biffdotorg]

Thanks for your intel. If I forgo a second battery, would you recommend both the onboard charger ie. norco genius10 AND a dual purpose start / deep cycle battery?

Your experience will tell you. You already have a jump pack, so go out and run it. If you run out of juice on a nice day of listening, you at least know you can get home.

Then start shopping for a bigger single battery/charger, or a second battery/charger. Until then, you may be just like most folks and find that the stock stereo is all they need, or that a slightly upgraded stereo is better, but may limit their listening time.

If you are not jamming for hours on the sandbar at "11" you may not need more than what you have. Everyone's experience is different as everyone has a different setup other than those that leave theirs stock. And Yamaha designed yours to run stock for quite some time safely without running the battery down, and should warn you when you are getting low.

At that time though, as said above, the charging system on the boat will not recover that battery fully just by running back to shore.

Good luck,

 

[Dami860]

Your experience will tell you. You already have a jump pack, so go out and run it. If you run out of juice on a nice day of listening, you at least know you can get home.

Then start shopping for a bigger single battery/charger, or a second battery/charger. Until then, you may be just like most folks and find that the stock stereo is all they need, or that a slightly upgraded stereo is better, but may limit their listening time.

If you are not jamming for hours on the sandbar at "11" you may not need more than what you have. Everyone's experience is different as everyone has a different setup other than those that leave theirs stock. And Yamaha designed yours to run stock for quite some time safely without running the battery down, and should warn you when you are getting low.

At that time though, as said above, the charging system on the boat will not recover that battery fully just by running back to shore.

Good luck,

Yea, I have no plans to compete with anyone at my local sandbar. I only got an amp because I wanted to hear my music at cruising speed and higher. I will likely not even play music at a sandbar.

 

[biffdotorg]

Yea, I have no plans to compete with anyone at my local sandbar. I only got an amp because I wanted to hear my music at cruising speed and higher. I will likely not even play music at a sandbar.

Perfect, that's the answer then, leave it alone unless you have issues. Nothing catastrophic has happened by draining your battery. Take a look at it and find out if it's a cranking or deep cycle or hybrid battery. As a cranking battery will not like being drained down often. That's the closest thing to catastrophic that could happen.

 

[Dami860]

Perfect, that's the answer then, leave it alone unless you have issues. Nothing catastrophic has happened by draining your battery. Take a look at it and find out if it's a cranking or deep cycle or hybrid battery. As a cranking battery will not like being drained down often. That's the closest thing to catastrophic that could happen.

So I took a look and it's a starting battery. Would group and rc would be I be looking for in a bigger battery? The consensus seemed to be a deep cycle when searching around.

 

[Btsnhos]

How do I know if I get the 120 amp or 65 amp Blue-seas add a battery?

Google. But 65 is fine. Don't use lithiums with the blue-seas kit, the lithiums hold a higher charge and they will continously try to charge your starter battery through the ACR. I just ran a seperate system with two perko switches so i have dedicated starter battery that gets recharged with the engine's stator and then a second system used to power the speakers and any accessories. I wired a noco 5x3 charger and plug it up at night or plug it into my truck to recharge if im at a hotel

 

[biffdotorg]

So I took a look and it's a starting battery. Would group and rc would be I be looking for in a bigger battery? The consensus seemed to be a deep cycle when searching around.

I have run a pair of Group 27 Deep Cycle batteries for years. In fact it has worked so well, I put in a new set after 5 years. One for starting and one for the house. You have a group 24 now, but you have plenty of room for a 27.

Once you get on the water, if you don't drain down that cranking battery, you will be fine. But a single group 27 deep cycle would handle the drain downs better. Normally you would not use a deep cycle as a cranking battery, but these waverunner engines need very little to turn over. They hardly tax any battery.

No matter what you decide on for battery/s, if you drain it down quite a bit, you have to install an onboard charger, or be ready to hook one up at the end of the day. As others have stated, the stators on these engines will not recover a deep drain. Only you know how much you will burn on the house side of this system.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Thanks for your intel. If I forgo a second battery, would you recommend both the onboard charger ie. norco genius10 AND a dual purpose start / deep cycle battery?

You’ll want a two bank charger with 10A per bank, you can just tape off the leads of the second bank separate from each other so when you do go to a two battery system you’ll have that charger there for the future or better yet get a single a Victron Energy IP67 25A / 10A charger and set it at 10A. The Victron is more expensive but it’s worth the money.

Whichever charger you choose to get, get one, install it and keep it plugged in whenever the boat is not in use. If you stay with flooded lead acid batteries be sure and check the cells monthly with a hydrometer for balance and overall correct specific gravity, then run an equalizing charge on them monthly, this will give you the best performance out of these tried and true batteries at the lowest cost. I’ve seen quite a few people add batteries they did not need because they fail to maintain their batteries correctly.

When you decide to go to a two battery set up and use the BEP marine switch




You’ll have a super compact and clean set up that only requires you to connect the batteries to. Then you can set the DVSR up to only actuate when the engine is running, @WiskyDan did a great job on his thread of tying in the fuel pump hot to the DVSR, a simple and clean set up that once done is touch free. This will also enable you to go to a LFP Aka LiFePO4 battery and keep the lead acid start battery isolated from the LFP battery unless the engine is on and charging them both, and will keep the two batteries isolated when at home on the charger, or just stay with flooded lead acid batteries.

But before you do anything but install an onboard charger, you need to install a 500A smart shunt

SmartShunt | Victron Energy

The SmartShunt is an all-in-one battery monitor, only without a display. Your phone acts as the display. The SmartShunt connects via Bluetooth to the VictronConnect app on your phone (or tablet) and you can conveniently read out all monitored battery parameters, like state of charge, time to go...

www.victronenergy.com

This will allow you to KNOW what the state of charge is on your battery, and to make an educated decision on what size house battery to get. Anything else is just a guess. This shunt will show you in real time what the draw is on your battery in amps, watts, Ah and KWh, and will show you the input from your engine in those parameters and will update the SOC (state of charge) as you cruise in your boat, and the flow of energy from your charger when it is plugged in. It will also show you voltage on your house and start batteries. Both the smart shunt and the IP67 battery charger use Victron Energy’s free app and is super simple to use.

 

[Dami860]

I have run a pair of Group 27 Deep Cycle batteries for years. In fact it has worked so well, I put in a new set after 5 years. One for starting and one for the house. You have a group 24 now, but you have plenty of room for a 27.

Once you get on the water, if you don't drain down that cranking battery, you will be fine. But a single group 27 deep cycle would handle the drain downs better. Normally you would not use a deep cycle as a cranking battery, but these waverunner engines need very little to turn over. They hardly tax any battery.

No matter what you decide on for battery/s, if you drain it down quite a bit, you have to install an onboard charger, or be ready to hook one up at the end of the day. As others have stated, the stators on these engines will not recover a deep drain. Only you know how much you will burn on the house side of this system.

Well without complicating matters, if I stay single battery, would I be better off with a deep cycle or lithium?

 

[anmut]

I have two of these for my house, running in parallel - they are phenomenal batteries. I run my 1500w JL system for a day at the sandbar at 30-50% volume and have never seen less than 12.4 volts by the time we pack up. 4 Year warranty too.

https://www.batteriesplus.com/productdetails/sli27agmdp

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Well without complicating matters, if I stay single battery, would I be better off with a deep cycle or lithium?

If you do not want to complicate matters then put a battery charger in your boat and maintain the single FLA battery you have properly and be sure and have a jump pack handy. Done.