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Best Stereo Battery Question?

Rod5

Jetboaters Commander
Messages
548
Reaction score
471
Points
187
Location
Marietta GA
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2022
Boat Model
255XD
Boat Length
25
Hi all,
I know opinions vary, I’m looking for the biggest longest lasting Deep Cycle battery for Stereo system upgrade I can find5A9CB48E-5A3B-4A6E-9281-999D452A7815.png this Spring. I found the below pic from another tread several months ago, but wondering if there may be something better? I only have room for one House and one Start Battey so I need the biggest and baddest! Thanks in advance for the recommendations.
View attachment 88584
 
Sorry don’t know why the image is in the middle of my post above...
 
One of these will replace two group 31. Two will be insane and still take less space and less weight than your current batteries. Keep in mind you will need to disconnect your solar panels and charge only from the limitium specific chargers. They will last many more charge cycles (years) than lead acid. The amphr rating is to their recommend dod. True 100 useable amp hours at 100 amps continuous. Not other single lead acid even comes close to that real world.

Battle Born Batteries BB10012 100Ah 12V LiFePO4 Lithium Deep Cycle Battery Bundle ... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JL6DM38/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_UvjDCbT5XHS8T

You did ask for the biggest and baddest. A bit more realistic price point would be two group 31 agm to replace both of your current batteries. Those are all about the same regardless of brand/marketing.
 
Keep in mind you will need to disconnect your solar panels and charge only from the limitium specific chargers.
Not that I'm planning on replacing my stock batteries in the near future, but you mentioned disconnecting the solar panel for lithiums.. are there any other restrictions you're aware of regarding the solar panel charger? Or only that they can't/shouldn't be used to charge Li's, and other battery types are ok to use with the panel?
 
I did a lot of research on this last year and most say that Odyssey is the current king of AGM batteries, but I will warn you, they aren't cheap.

ODYSSEY Battery Model 31M-PC2150ST
 
Lithiums do not have a float absorbtion period like lead acid. The current needs to cut off completely once 100 percent charged. This is where solar panel and solar panel charge controlers are of concern. There are specific charge controllers for solar panels and lithiums.
 
Last edited:
Wow thanks for the info I had no idea either of those two bad boys existed.
Question about the battle born LiFe, if solar panels are an issue what abouse the engine charging system. Would that need to be disconnected too some how or ?
 
Wow thanks for the info I had no idea either of those two bad boys existed.
Question about the battle born LiFe, if solar panels are an issue what abouse the engine charging system. Would that need to be disconnected too some how or ?

Good question. If the bms is done right it should shut off the current for either but sometimes so little current from the panels that it can screw with some bms. A bms is a battery managment system. Done right in lithiums they charge each cell individually, and protect from overload when charging and discharging. I am not familiar with this brand enough to know the quality of the cells or bms. The specs lead me to believe that they are high quality as they are what would be expected for a 100 amp top end lifepo4 with enough safety put in place instead of on the ragged edge. Limitless Lithium is another brand but their prices seem way out of whack even considering high end.

No idea if you can reach someone over at battle born or whoever is distributing/dba but you may want to try to get this answered for sure. I would be interested myself for the future.
 
So what did you go with and why?

One of my group 31 agm interstates dropped a cell while float charging this winter 2 months shy of the 3 year warranty and interstate did a straight up no cost replacement through the auto shop less than 2 miles down the road. Still not as good the x power or odyssey spec wise but being able to drive 1.6 miles to the closest auto shop that sells interstate for a free in warranty replacement was pretty cool.
 
I haven’t decided yet between the Oddesey or the X2 power. Need to compare the specs. I have till June month before I’ll need the long duration power sitting on a sandbar so I’m working on other priorities at the moment. Let me know if you come up with a clear front runner in the $400 to $500 range.
 
Upgrading batteries myself this year and have gone with 2 GRP 31 Duracell AGM's from Sam's at $180 each. Tremendous reviews on them. I've been researching all winter too and these were the most economical.
I replaced and upgraded both batteries to this deep cycle battery. No issues whatsoever.
 
For the newbie here (that's me), I'm trying to read up and understanding how the charging system works and what's required to keep everything happy. From what I've learned thus far (and I tried to find this in the FAQ but couldn't):

Yamaha's have a stator and not an alternator. The stator charges the batteries (both I'm assuming) when the motor is running.

I have (1) 800 watt amp installed and have only run my stereo system for a few hours here and there while moving and/or while parked at a sand bar. So far I haven't noticed at issues. However, today I ordered round two of stereo upgrades and I have another 600 watt amp coming to power some beefy towers. I went to tune a few things today on the boat and get some measurements and finally looked at batteries closer. It appears after some quick Googling that I have two factory Deka 24m6 Start batteries which where replaced before I bought the boat in 9/18.

As I've been posting about stereo upgrades and such, I "assumed" I would just add a 3rd battery to help power the new upgrade system. However, after reading a TON of posts, it seems that many of you go with (2) AGM 31's as shown above from Sam's Club.

What I'm curious about is, if I swap out these two Deka 24's for 2 of the AGM 31's up top (Sam's Club), would that be sufficient in running the boat + stereo turned up for say 30mins to maybe 2 hours tops, at 25+mphs AND would it be enough to park the boat at a sand bar, turn down the subs and cabin and turn up just the towers for say 1-4 hours give or take?

I'm thinking the factory charging system won't be enough to keep two of those batteries topped off but I have no idea Any input on that? If I'm 35 minutes to an hour back to the docks after parked with the stereo system on but not super cranked, is that enough to replenish them? I see many add some type of charger such as: Amazon.com : ProMariner 43012 ProSport 12 12 Amp, 12/24 Volt, 2 Bank Generation 3 Battery Charger : Fishing Nets : Sports & Outdoors to charge the batteries. I'm not opposed to it at all, but my boat is stored in dry storage and there's no outlet nearby that I'm aware of. So I'm trying to wrap my head around what people do to keep their boats charged when running 1-2 amps and using 2 AGM batteries. Or would a 3rd battery solve that problem assuming they are all topped off charge wise?

Sorry for hi-jacking this thread, I can start another post if needed =).
 
For the newbie here (that's me), I'm trying to read up and understanding how the charging system works and what's required to keep everything happy. From what I've learned thus far (and I tried to find this in the FAQ but couldn't):

Yamaha's have a stator and not an alternator. The stator charges the batteries (both I'm assuming) when the motor is running.

I have (1) 800 watt amp installed and have only run my stereo system for a few hours here and there while moving and/or while parked at a sand bar. So far I haven't noticed at issues. However, today I ordered round two of stereo upgrades and I have another 600 watt amp coming to power some beefy towers. I went to tune a few things today on the boat and get some measurements and finally looked at batteries closer. It appears after some quick Googling that I have two factory Deka 24m6 Start batteries which where replaced before I bought the boat in 9/18.

As I've been posting about stereo upgrades and such, I "assumed" I would just add a 3rd battery to help power the new upgrade system. However, after reading a TON of posts, it seems that many of you go with (2) AGM 31's as shown above from Sam's Club.

What I'm curious about is, if I swap out these two Deka 24's for 2 of the AGM 31's up top (Sam's Club), would that be sufficient in running the boat + stereo turned up for say 30mins to maybe 2 hours tops, at 25+mphs AND would it be enough to park the boat at a sand bar, turn down the subs and cabin and turn up just the towers for say 1-4 hours give or take?

I'm thinking the factory charging system won't be enough to keep two of those batteries topped off but I have no idea Any input on that? If I'm 35 minutes to an hour back to the docks after parked with the stereo system on but not super cranked, is that enough to replenish them? I see many add some type of charger such as: Amazon.com : ProMariner 43012 ProSport 12 12 Amp, 12/24 Volt, 2 Bank Generation 3 Battery Charger : Fishing Nets : Sports & Outdoors to charge the batteries. I'm not opposed to it at all, but my boat is stored in dry storage and there's no outlet nearby that I'm aware of. So I'm trying to wrap my head around what people do to keep their boats charged when running 1-2 amps and using 2 AGM batteries. Or would a 3rd battery solve that problem assuming they are all topped off charge wise?

Sorry for hi-jacking this thread, I can start another post if needed =).

Sounds like you are in the same place as most with big stereos. I would ditch the group 24 Deka's, go with the group 31 AGM's from sams and see how they do. Your boat should have a DVSR on it, meaning that when both engines are running, you should be charging the batteries. The big "should" with that is if you are pulling more then what the stators can put out then you might just be breaking even not charging. Nothing wrong with that, but it would be wise to use something like a ProMariner to keep everything topped off, bonus is your batteries will stay conditioned in the off season.

Now with the 2015 AR's I think they have the BEP start/house isolators. If your boat has that then keep one of the group 24's are the starting battery and switch out the house one for a group 31 AGM. This setup (what I now have on my boat) will save you some cash and make it so you have less of a starting battery to change letting the power generated from the stators flow to the house batter. Run that for a few weeks and see how it works for you, if you notice all of the house electronics shutting off after a day of playing music then you might want to add another group 31 to the house switch or see about charging with shore power every night.

Hope that helps
 
Sounds like you are in the same place as most with big stereos. I would ditch the group 24 Deka's, go with the group 31 AGM's from sams and see how they do. Your boat should have a DVSR on it, meaning that when both engines are running, you should be charging the batteries. The big "should" with that is if you are pulling more then what the stators can put out then you might just be breaking even not charging. Nothing wrong with that, but it would be wise to use something like a ProMariner to keep everything topped off, bonus is your batteries will stay conditioned in the off season.

Now with the 2015 AR's I think they have the BEP start/house isolators. If your boat has that then keep one of the group 24's are the starting battery and switch out the house one for a group 31 AGM. This setup (what I now have on my boat) will save you some cash and make it so you have less of a starting battery to change letting the power generated from the stators flow to the house batter. Run that for a few weeks and see how it works for you, if you notice all of the house electronics shutting off after a day of playing music then you might want to add another group 31 to the house switch or see about charging with shore power every night.

Hope that helps
@JBehrens
Awesome, thanks for this input. I was literally just reason up on the ProMariner versus the Noco Genuis and trying to determine where I'd plug it in (I dry store my boat with no outlet) and IF I brought it home, how long it would take to recharge the batteries (I live in an HOA so I can't have it hanging out for a long time).

With that, I thought I read you can't, or maybe shouldn't mix battery types in these boats. I believe the Deka is a flooded battery. Is it OK to run that and 1 31 AGM?
 
I keep seeing this thread pop up. I have two g31 interstate AGMs (one for start and one for house). The Duracell g31 AGM at Sams is one heck of a deal and when on sale unbeatable IMO. Are the insanely expensive g31 agms going to outperform the Duracell? More than likely, but not by more than 10%. I would just buy two of the Duracells for price of one really high end AGM given that choice. Keep in mind true deep cycles are great too but they require refilling of electorate and are not sealed which in my opinion is not a good choice for most here. As for what is really needed will depend on how long you float or if you have very high draw items like ballast pumps. Last season I had 800 watts worth of amps running two sub and some cabins but no towers. I also have a 1500 watt inverter, and 3 ballast pumps on board. The inverter powers a 20% duty cycle 200 watt refrigeration compressor (approximate numbers on this), a ninja blender as needed, and even powered my boat lift when the power was out at my marina. I was able to float for 3-4 hours playing tunes at a moderate level with the set up after having filled and emptied ballast bags on just the house g31 agm. After three seasons one of my batteries would not charge above 10.8 volts. This is after losing power at my marina multiple times last year and the inverter auto switching from shore power to battery power which feeds the refrigeration compressor. The inverter has an auto voltage cut off a little above 11 volts. This happened a couple of times where the power was off for days. Then a freak storm hit the marina right around when I got my lift installed and I was forced to use the inverter to power the lift which draws about 800-1200 watts for minutes as a time. I was not able to charge the batteries back up except by running the boat for months as it took the marina a while to get everything fixed. The marina has now redone all of the electrical and those problems should be a thing of the past. All of this abuse is likely what killed that battery and hurt the other one to the point where interstate did replace both for me under warranty.

I think a single g31 AGM will run up to 2000 watts of variable load (normal level audio, blender on short bursts, low watt/low duty cycle item on an inverter) for many hours just fine. Once that load becomes a more constant load (ballast pumps, audio cranked for many hours) that is when you may need two. With a second group 31AGM as the start you can always combine the batteries to get more juice for running ballast pumps splitting the load between the two or get more pay time out of your audio system at the sand bar. Having a third g31 AGM will certainly help some of the bigger systems play for many hours at the sandbar. There is no way that stators are going to recharge two large depleted batteries without hours of run time with the stereo basically off. A shore charger, suit case inverter generator, or larger solar panels will be needed. 2-12 hours for the powerful shore chargers should be enough for them to top off the batteries fully depending on DOD.
 
@Mainah

This is exactly the information I was looking for but couldn't find it at least in a single post. If anything, I'll carve out the specific bits and maybe @Julian can add it to the faq as I couldn't find anything directly related to this (I could of easily had missed it).

With that, do you know if I can run the one Deka 24m6 flood battery as the start and 1 of the 31 agms as the house as @JBehrens mentioned up top? In theory it makes sense if you have the smaller start and larger deep cycle agm the system should top off the start sooner then charge the agm?

I can also just swap both Dekas for two of the agms up top and call it a day. I have a Costco membership so I looks like I'll have to open a Sam's club and at that point it wont break me to get the 2 agms at the same time, however, if the can start with the Deka for start and agm for house then I'd do that.
 
@Mainah

This is exactly the information I was looking for but couldn't find it at least in a single post. If anything, I'll carve out the specific bits and maybe @Julian can add it to the faq as I couldn't find anything directly related to this (I could of easily had missed it).

With that, do you know if I can run the one Deka 24m6 flood battery as the start and 1 of the 31 agms as the house as @JBehrens mentioned up top? In theory it makes sense if you have the smaller start and larger deep cycle agm the system should top off the start sooner then charge the agm?

I can also just swap both Dekas for two of the agms up top and call it a day. I have a Costco membership so I looks like I'll have to open a Sam's club and at that point it wont break me to get the 2 agms at the same time, however, if the can start with the Deka for start and agm for house then I'd do that.

You can run a start battery with a AGM. When they combine a delpleted agm will suck juice out of a fully charged start battery decreasing its life span a bit. If both are topped off and they combine not the best for the agm as the start has a higher float voltage. None of it enough to worry about if you already have new start batteries and get a dual bank charger and set up the dvsr to combine only when engines are running.
 
I've always run a mix, but dont run the stereo loud for long periods.
 
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