Brake dilemma

[Backwash]

Had one brake lock up end of last season. Released fluid and got it home. Took to boat guy a couple weeks ago for some other stuff and asked to look at brakes. He said had rust and junk in lines and probably needing to replace the piston. Now I know nothing about trailer brakes. Do I have to buy the whole actuator? Am I cheaper just to convert to electric somehow? Can I just run without them? (Did that when towed home over 700 miles when bought it) ....

 

[eekman56]

I bought the wheel cylinders from Trailer Parts Superstore. They were about $ 30 bucks a piece. While they are off, put a tube on the brake lines into a bottle to catch fluid and put a 2x4 and using the safety chains push in the actuator and flush the lines. Just remember to put more fluid in occasionally. Once the new wheel cylinders are on, you can bleed them the same way. 2 people are needed. Make sure you're leaving the actuator all the way in, then close your bleeder. That will keep air from coming back in.
Sounds like its a tough but it's really not that bad.

 

[Zeus2013]

My trailer does not have breaks...but thinking about it, break fluid absorbs water over time and it is recommended to change the fluid in car brakes every few years. I would guess that on boats and submerging the brakes in water on a regular basis, stored outside in winter months, it might be wise to do the same with boat brake fuid, hence the rust in the lines. just a though...

 

[Speedling]

I needed new axles for my camper and it was like 30 bucks more to have them shipped with brakes. So, I switched my boat trailer to electric brakes.

 

[Murf'n'surf]

Get your brakes fixed not only for your safety but the safety of everyone else on the road. Stay with hydraulic surge brakes. It's just another cost to boat.

 

[Backwash]

I tried. The shop said cannot fix. I am attempting to get info to do myself with no knowledge of surge brakes. I assume I need a new actuator and lines. Is this Yamaha specific parts? Looks like electric conversion would be more of a pain than replacing the parts......

 

[Lspeedss]

I know MFI made the trailer I have. There should be a manufacturers badge on the inside of the frame rail near the tongue. May be a good place to start.

 

[Murf'n'surf]

It may be easier to trade up to a new trailer.

 

[Bruce]

The brakes are built by UFP http://www.ufpnet.com/Actuators/tabid/54/Default.aspx

The trailer is built by MFI.

The parts are widely available.

I would prefer electric brakes but electric brakes are uncommon on boats. It may be due to electrical or corrosion issues when they are submerged. Hydraulic brakes can help you stop on the ramp. I doubt electric brakes would do much.

 

[itsdgm]

UFP made the actuator/surge brake tongue and the calipers (model DB35) on my MFI trailer. They can be ordered at www.pacifictrailers.com

 

[Backwash]

Very enlightening info! Thanks!! Looks like get to spend some time under the boat tomorrow. Had no idea could be so plug and play....

 

[Speedling]

The brakes are built by UFP http://www.ufpnet.com/Actuators/tabid/54/Default.aspx

The trailer is built by MFI.

The parts are widely available.

I would prefer electric brakes but electric brakes are uncommon on boats. It may be due to electrical or corrosion issues when they are submerged. Hydraulic brakes can help you stop on the ramp. I doubt electric brakes would do much.

Since I have electric brakes (due to prefering them) I am wondering what benefit hydraulic brakes have over electric in stopping at the ramp?
I would certainly agree that electrical connections may have issues in salt water. But other than that, they will be only as strong as their hydraulic counterparts, which, get locked out when you're in reverse, and not so on electric.

In any case, I was tired of the way hydraulic brakes work, or not work, get stuck, check fluids, etc. You can swap to electric for a couple hundred bucks easily. I was already set up on my truck for my camper anyways, and my wife only needs to "learn" one way of hooking things up.
It's UFP and MFI as stated before, and it may be a little difficult to get at if things are rusty or anything, but it's not hard to work on.

 

[Bruce]

@Speedling, glad to hear that electric brakes are working for you. I have an equipment trailer with electric brakes and prefer them. They should make for a much smoother ride.

I was thinking that the electrical connections did not appear to be water tight and assuming that they could short out if you applied the brakes while they were submerged. Do you disconnect the trailer wiring before backing down the ramp ? Or are yours water tight ?

Surge brakes would not be much use on the ramp either since the weight of the trailer and boat would be pulling it downhill which would prevent activation of the surge system.

 

[Julian]

Lots of good videos online that you can watch to help you do this:

 

[Speedling]

@Bruce
low voltage such as 12v car systems won't short out really. The wires are all coated and wrapped in tape. The brakes work under water just fine. You don't get shocked by it or anything either. I had to read up on it before I did I it as well, but it's perfectly fine.

 

[txav8r]

I checked into electric brakes before I made repairs to my UFP surge brakes. I was cautioned against them at every turn...by the trailer shops! Their statements to me were, "we don't do or recommend electric brakes on boat trailers", and "electric brakes aren't intended for underwater applications". I don't claim to know how much trouble they could possibly be, certainly, the surge brakes, if not maintained continually will give issues, but brakes are brakes. And 99% of the issues you have with the surge brakes are going to be rusting caliper piston or bore, dragging or frozen pad frame to glide, broken brake lines, water in the brake lines, air in the brake lines. I don't know electric brakes like I do the surge brakes so forgive the assumtions. But for clarification and justification of either, knowledge is power. So can you explain the electric brakes? Are they only electrically actuated but still have a hydraulic reservoir and brake lines? Or are they electrically signaling each brake unit at each wheel? Again, forgive the ignorance, just never had any dealings with the electric brakes. But surge brakes, well maintained surge brakes, are considered the best application for boat trailers, and they work well if maintained well.

 

[Speedling]

http://www.boatus.com/trailerclub/electric_brakes.asp
"
The center of the electric system is an electro-magnet that drags on the inner face of the brake drum. The more the magnet grabs on the surface of the drum, the more braking it provides. A major selling point that is made to trailer boat owners is the fact electric brakes provide full braking in reverse, which is certainly welcome when back down a steep or slippery boat ramp with a boat on a trailer.

Another safety characteristic that is part of electric braking system is the breakaway kit. "It is a battery in a box that mounts on the trailer," explains Craig Wilson, "and it contains a trickle charger so the battery is always operating at peak performance. If the trailer breaks away from the tow vehicle, a pin that is hooked to a cable or a lanyard is pulled out of the breakaway switch and the full current is applied to the trailer brakes from the battery." EZLoaders's Dave Thielman says the system has the ability in tests to hold the full weight of a trailer with a boat on an incline in place for up to ten minutes.

Electric brakes require no more maintenance than surge brakes and there is no specific upkeep for trailers using them. But flushing the brakes is an essential chore. "We do recommend installation of a freshwater flush kit," says Fulton's Wilson, "because this will extend the life of the brake components. We have a Freshwater Flush Kit that is hooked to a garden hose. Once in place, you just turn on the hose and the kit flushes salt and sand and debris away from the brakes. I think it's required stuff whether you use hydraulic or electric brakes."


My personal take is this... the electric system as a whole is pretty cheap. Especially compared to the whole hydraulic system. If you are worried about corrosion, well, you could probably replace the magnets that would be worn out (maybe) every year. I will say, however, that it takes a little bit for the magnets to "wear in" to the hub. It's basically just a magnet powered drum brake. My camper brakes were the same exact bolt pattern, and I needed one different bearing to install it. I love it for trailering longer trips, especially the stop and go. Then again, I haven't met a hydraulic system that worked correctly YET to actually pull with. I've never had a problem with my electric brakes. Once installed, they are good to go. My camper brakes are electric (obviously) and I replaced them in 2013. They were originals from 1998!!! I re-used the drums, but replaced the magnets, bearings, and obviously had to run new wires. I DO have a solid wire from the connection at the hitch all the way to the brakes and have the connection to the magnet heat-shrink wrapped. I also boat in fresh water, and it sits in a garage when not out on the water, but that also means it is dunked 2 times a week on average during boating season.

 

[Speedling]

http://www.redtrailers.com/ShowArticle.asp?id=2
"In the past, boat trailers relied heavily on surge brakes setups because it was thought that the electric brake components mounted in the wheel (the shoes, arms, magnet and related springs and parts) would rust quickly because they are constantly dipped in water when the boat is launched. Today, however, more marine trailer builders are installing electric brake systems because brake manufacturers have started offering corrosion-resistant brake components such as galvanized or stainless steel metal parts coupled with rare-earth magnets."

"DOT regulations specify that trailers with brakes must be fitted with an actuator that allows the tow vehicle driver to operate the trailer brakes independent of the tow vehicle brakes. In other words, he must be able to actuate the trailer's brakes without stepping on the tow vehicle brake pedal. Surge brakes do not offer this feature."

 

[fairpilot]

Put all new disc brakes on my traler, got rid of metal lines running inside trailer and installed rubber brake lines. Job was very easy. I put Kodiak brakes on it. has worked fine for 3 years.

 

[bronze_10]

Sorry to revive an old thread but have the views on electric brakes changed over the past year an a half? I am looking to replace my trailer this spring. I am use to electric brakes from horse trailers and utility trailers. In looking for trailers i have seen where some manufacturers have begun to offer electric over hydraulic brakes. Maybe it is a combination of the best of both types.