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Drip Irrigation Tow Valve?

Hike

Jetboaters Lieutenant
Messages
224
Reaction score
127
Points
152
Location
Montross, VA
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2008
Boat Model
SX
Boat Length
23
Would a drip irrigation tow valve work for our jetboats, or do we need something that handles a higher psi?

These are both on Amazon and are full bore with 5/8 barbs. The Antelco valve looks identical to the Wave Eater
for a fraction of the price. They are 45 max psi. I'm in brackish water and would like a valve so I can flush at the dock.



 
I would say...Stay away from plastic. Useing Stainless steel or a bronze valve is more reliable/durable for a marine application. I might use the second one for a jetski but not a boat. I just do not like plastic fittings like thru hulls and valves that are below the waterline. Just my $.02.
 
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I would say...Stay away from plastic. Useing Stainless steel or a bronze valve is more reliable/durable for a marine application. I might use the second one for a jetski but not a boat. I just do not like plastic fittings like thru hulls and valves that are below the waterline. Just my $.02.
@zipper Thanks for the input. Do you know if the island racing version is non corrosive in saltwater?
 
I used a copper pex valve from Lowes. The handle did not fare well the first year, so I cleaned it up and covered it with cold galvanizing paint and the plastic coat. The valve itself is flawless so far. Time will tell. In hindsight if the island racing is all stainless, it might have been a better choice.
 
Island racing uses 450PSI plated brass construction. I’ve seen brass get pretty corroded in saltwater however.
 
@zipper Thanks for the input. Do you know if the island racing version is non corrosive in saltwater?

Others should chime in on their product, as far as longevity. They use chrome plated brass with plastic barbed fittings. I am about to change my scupper to s.s. and I think I will put together a mini 1/2" s.s. ball valve with s.s. barbed ends. and then try to squeeze it in somewhere.
Mini 1/2" FIP s.s. ball valves are not cheep at $25 apiece. 316 Stainless Steel 400 Psi Mini Ball Valve Note: the picture shown in the link is not a FIP/FIP but is offered as a choise.
20200607_091834.jpg
 
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I, too, would be curious to hear longevity input from folks.

As much as I respect and generally agree with @zipper , I would not be afraid to use plastic. If I look at my boat, it has plastic exposed, even underwater, everywhere. Fittings, T-s, etc. That said, a) it, like everything, will require periodic inspections and b) I don't think I would use a drip irrigation rated to only 45 psi (myself, I would go for a higher-rated thing, not that I base that on any evidence of the pressure in the line--but more on the price differential; a 100+psi valve can't be so much more versus the security of not blowing a cooling line).
 
I, too, would be curious to hear longevity input from folks.

As much as I respect and generally agree with @zipper , I would not be afraid to use plastic. If I look at my boat, it has plastic exposed, even underwater, everywhere. Fittings, T-s, etc. That said, a) it, like everything, will require periodic inspections and b) I don't think I would use a drip irrigation rated to only 45 psi (myself, I would go for a higher-rated thing, not that I base that on any evidence of the pressure in the line--but more on the price differential; a 100+psi valve can't be so much more versus the security of not blowing a cooling line).

I get it. I blame it all on refitting the sailboat, LOL. Having wet slipped the Yamaha for 3 seasons with a plastic scupper and hearing of some failures here, I didn't like rolling the dice anymore. The Yamaha has plastic everywhere. I am trying to upgrade as I fit/refit. Not a lot of pressure on these valves when engine is off. Everyone has a tolerance or "good enough" threshold depending on their experiences, where they boat and how they boat. I am programmed for s.s. or bronze now.

Edit: BTW, you can be towed slowly without use of any valves or clamps. Did it on our second outing. That is how I found this forum, nearly 4 years ago, when I could not restart the boat after using the cleanout plugs when jamming her up with millfoil. Got a slow tow about a 1/4 mile long back to the dock by the Sheriff Dept. I won't roll those dice anymore either.
 
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You are talking about installing tow valves....right? This is one mod that seems way too over engineered for me. In the 17 years of Yamaha ownership I've never needed to be towed, but if I do need to be, I have 2 plastic hose clamps that I bought on Amazon. As simple to use as a valve. $10 no muss no fuss. (Plus....if need be you can lend them to another boater in need)

 

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And, frankly, I wish I had seen a post about those clamps before I installed mine. Which, I might add, have been used... Never.

With that frequency, I would have been just fine with the clamps.
 
If you have to flush the engines in the water the valves come in handy. For towing or running on one engine, It's a thing you hope you never need, but happy to have when you do.
 
If you have to flush the engines in the water the valves come in handy.
In brackish water, could the boat stay in for 5 days without a flush?
 
I think it's all a calculated risk. Eventually something will rust. In 5 or 50 years?..super hard to say.

Is this once a year or weekly forever?

We don't really have exact answers in these cases.
 
I had them on my 2005 for at least 150hrs of use no problems
 
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