Easy way to fully lubricate reverse gate cables without removing them completely

[Marvin willis]

I don't know what new feels like compared to what I have. I just couldn't get the oil to drain. Both throttles feel identical. I would say 1-2 lbs tension maybe. They move pretty easily individually. A little stiff together.

 

[Marvin willis]

It must have done something bc now I have a little throttle drop. Oh well I'll figure out.

 

[Julian]

Sounds like you dont have an issue....but perhaps meet up with another member and see if their throttles are looser than yours?

 

[rkluck]

Interesting information as always. I don't take my boat in salt water so I am not as concerned. I like the idea of the cable ties and will do that to my boat. I always wondered why those boots would move and thought it was odd. Thanks to everyone for their thoughts and ideas. They are always helpful.

 

[Beachbummer]

Old thread, but same problem. One Cable is very hard to move. Tried to lube by forcing penetrating oil with air pressure from the pump side by attaching a hose around cable and pressurizing the whole contraption. After an hour I gave up, no luck. Cable moves, but barely.

On my old boat I would lubricate and stiffness would return quickly, so I added a loom type rubber hose section that expands and contracts with the cable, and covers the moving parts. I greased up and attached with zip ties. The whole exposed piece is covered and protected under the rubber baffle. So far the issue had not returned. Not sure if still try on this boat yet. Seems the baffled tube may need to be bigger. It's was a pain to source. I found it as a car door wire protector.


Replacing the cables tomorrow, trying to put in a gaffrig set I find on eBay at the same time, will see how it goes.

 

[Bruce]

@Beachbummer, replacing the cables will make a huge difference in the way your boat handles. I wish I had done it years ago.

Are you replacing the steering and shift cables? I replaced both and would do them at the same time. I thought my shift cables were ok but found they were rusted through the outer casing when I removed them. I can shift with one finger now.

 

[Beachbummer]

Steering is actually perfect and smooth, so I won't be touching those. Reverse only, but I plan to do both.

 

[Bruce]

Steering is actually perfect and smooth, so I won't be touching those. Reverse only, but I plan to do both.

Steering will be much easier if change the cables and much more precise if you add bushings.

 

[Beachbummer]

Ok. Steering is pretty good right now, but the bushings would certainly help. I'll be sure to check it out.

Any other tips on the cables? I've read some threads and it seems painful but doable. I have seen the warnings on the exposed fiberglass suggesting long sleeves for work in the rear bilge.

 

[Bruce]

I found it easy to change the cables but I have been in the bilge several times. You will want a helper.

 

[Marvin willis]

I have to say my steering stiffened up after a month of replacing my cables. Not like before but definitely not like new. Shift cable still feels like new.

 

[JetDriven]

The whole exposed piece is covered and protected under the rubber baffle. So far the issue had not returned. Not sure if still try on this boat yet. Seems the baffled tube may need to be bigger. It's was a pain to source. I found it as a car door wire protector.

Replacing the cables tomorrow, trying to put in a gaffrig set I find on eBay at the same time, will see how it goes.

Hey Beachbummber, did you find a rubber baffle for the Yamaha reverse gate cable? If so, send us a link! Thanks

 

[Beachbummer]

Sorry no baffle search yet.

Used graffrig throttle levers beat my butt this weekend, but I claim the win on a partial battle.

New shift cables and eBay graffrig used throttle levers tested today.

Still some adjustment needed, but it works, mostly. The used assembly was missing friction springs and seats. And I assembled with Jerry rigged bolts in place of cable kit. A bit Frankenstein, but got it out today. Yesterday was all work.

Old cables were rusted horribly and we're super bound. No wonder oiling did not work. First time under the bilge tray. I have big hands, the round ports are designed for Japanese women. Too tight. Had a hard time with the hose clamps.

Also installed repair kit on clean out plugs, and adjusted recently installed cobra steering. Between cobra steering and better throttle control, and not being afraid to blow a shift cable, I actually had decent Control at low speeds. This is harder than my seadoo 18ft, need to practice more!

 

[Beachbummer]

Work in progress.....

 

[Beachbummer]

https://www.amazon.com/AutoLoc-DLOOM-Rubber-Door-Wire/dp/B003TVHQC2

This is the loom I got for the other boat. Need to measure more to confirm it would work.

 

[itsdgm]

https://www.amazon.com/AutoLoc-DLOOM-Rubber-Door-Wire/dp/B003TVHQC2

This is the loom I got for the other boat. Need to measure more to confirm it would work.

That is such a great idea @Beachbummer. Thanks for posting.

 

[cjnapier]

Is it a horrible idea to lubricate the reverse gate cables while on the water? I’m wondering if I can wrap a rag around the cable to catch the oil that flushes out. I’m on a lake and prefer not to pull the boat out and realizing now that my stiff shifting out of neutral isn’t normal

 

[cjnapier]

Well after reading more about the rubber boots on the cable arm I decided it would be ok to do this on the water. I didn’t see any sludge come out but I used a tire valve and bike pump with a 3/8 ID hose and it definitely helped force the oil down and I could see the air coming out the cable end as I moved the reverse gate up and down to help move the oil through. Seems to have worked. I would say it was at about 15-20 lb pressure to shift out of neutral (not fun) and is now at about 5-10. Not sure how fluid it is supposed to be but I imagine some resistance is normal. I used royal purple 75w as it’s what I had on hand. 04 AR230