fixed my water leak

[Troy JK]

Ive been having too much water drain from the boat after a day on the water. Then about 2 weeks ago I removed the tray over the clean-out ports to check for an easier wire route. That’s when I noticed the piss poor sealant that was used on the tray. The stuff they use has no adhesion ability whatsoever so when I reinstalled it I ran a bead of silicone between the two surfaces. Wasn’t sure it would fix anything but after a long day on the water Sunday I had NO water come out the drain plug... zero, nada, nothing.
Definitely worth a try if you’re having the same issue. A little bit of a pain to get the rubber clean-out tubes back on but not horrible. When taking them off, don’t loosen the hose clamps too much or they will fall down where it’s hard to reach. I let mine down untill they were clear from the flange then tightened them enough to hold them there. and when putting them back, Feel on the far side of the rubber tubes and make sure the clamp is in the right position before you tighten them. Also watch how you put the tray screws back in because they’re easy to strip, especially the ones too close to the edge.

 

[Dave burke]

Good stuff. Any concerns about removing the tray in the future?

 

[Yambers]

Do you have pictures of the actual piece you removed and where you applied sealant?

 

[Troy JK]

Good stuff. Any concerns about removing the tray in the future?

I just used generic silicone, I’m sure I can get it apart even if I have to bend a cheap knife and slide it around cutting the silicone.

 

[Troy JK]

Do you have pictures of the actual piece you removed and where you applied sealant?

I do have a pic of the opening while the tray was out.

 

[Yambers]

I do have a pic of the opening while the tray was out.

View attachment 148063

Nice. Thank you. I need to do this myself.

 

[Troy JK]

You wouldn’t think water washes up that high during launching, but I know that after every trip the clean out plugs have about 6” of water sitting on top of them. If it isn’t from launching, then water has to be getting past the clean outs. Either way, I believe it was then leaking past the poor sealant job on the tray before it all went out of the drain.

 

[Neutron]

I used something similar to this. That way the tray can be removed without having sealant to deal with. It flattens out when the screws are tightened
Weather strip

 

[Neutron]

You wouldn’t think water washes up that high during launching, but I know that after every trip the clean out plugs have about 6” of water sitting on top of them. If it isn’t from launching, then water has to be getting past the clean outs. Either way, I believe it was then leaking past the poor sealant job on the tray before it all went out of the drain.

Its not so much the water washing up, but the water comes up the tray's drain hose. If you open the clean out hatch and stand on the swim platform and just bounce the stern a little the water squirts up the drain. I put a plug in my drain to prevent this and now i dont get water on top of my clean outs

 

[212s]

Sealing that access panel has been mentioned several times and I ran a bead of clear silicone around last year too. Boat is bone dry now. I still get water up the drain and into the cleanout ports, but that's not an issue.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Sealing that access panel has been mentioned several times and I ran a bead of clear silicone around last year too. Boat is bone dry now. I still get water up the drain and into the cleanout ports, but that's not an issue.

Do you and @Neutron have scupper type check valves on the clean out tray drain? Mine has the scupper type check valve.

I sealed up my clean out tray over winter. Now the starboard clean out tube is full and the port clean out tube is about 1/3 full...so I guess my clean out tray drain is allowing water back up there..

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Ive been having too much water drain from the boat after a day on the water. Then about 2 weeks ago I removed the tray over the clean-out ports to check for an easier wire route. That’s when I noticed the piss poor sealant that was used on the tray. The stuff they use has no adhesion ability whatsoever so when I reinstalled it I ran a bead of silicone between the two surfaces. Wasn’t sure it would fix anything but after a long day on the water Sunday I had NO water come out the drain plug... zero, nada, nothing.
Definitely worth a try if you’re having the same issue. A little bit of a pain to get the rubber clean-out tubes back on but not horrible. When taking them off, don’t loosen the hose clamps too much or they will fall down where it’s hard to reach. I let mine down untill they were clear from the flange then tightened them enough to hold them there. and when putting them back, Feel on the far side of the rubber tubes and make sure the clamp is in the right position before you tighten them. Also watch how you put the tray screws back in because they’re easy to strip, especially the ones too close to the edge.

Great post!

 

[Sx240]

Mine is the same way I believe after reading a bunch of threads on here seams most likely that is where the water gets in at and of course one of the screws is stripped out any idea of fixing the stripped out screw?

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Mine is the same way I believe after reading a bunch of threads on here seams most likely that is where the water gets in at and of course one of the screws is stripped out any idea of fixing the stripped out screw?

you could get a speed nut / clip nut and try that.

 

[zipper]

Mine is the same way I believe after reading a bunch of threads on here seams most likely that is where the water gets in at and of course one of the screws is stripped out any idea of fixing the stripped out screw?

You can make a tape dam and fill the hole with epoxy resin let harden then redrill. Or, I used 5200 to fill the stripped holes on mine, let it harden, use fast cure if you don't want to wait a week, then redrill the hole to the correct size and reinstall the screw. It has held up for the last 4 years with no leaks.

 

[Neutron]

Do you and @Neutron have scupper type check valves on the clean out tray drain? Mine has the scupper type check valve.

I sealed up my clean out tray over winter. Now the starboard clean out tube is full and the port clean out tube is about 1/3 full...so I guess my clean out tray drain is allowing water back up there..

No scupper or check valve go the drain

 

[Cambo]

Check out what happens when you fill that compartment with water . Put a cork in the drain outlet run the hose until you have about 1'' to 2'' of water in the tray and watch how fast it pours out from hull drain plug , That oval center hatch does nothing to prevent water from entering the bilge it looks like it could seal but it doesn't. @Troy JK while you sealed the first area that water will still enter you have only slowed the water from entering eventually the clean out ports will fill then it will start to enter from the oval inspection hatch. if you do any type of water sports with a lot of stop and go it doesn't take long for the tray to fill up. for fresh water boaters its not a big deal but that salt water eats up all the hose clamps. If you wake surf with ballast you will take on a lot of water from this and the other point of entry are the retractable cleats.

Mine is the same way I believe after reading a bunch of threads on here seams most likely that is where the water gets in at and of course one of the screws is stripped out any idea of fixing the stripped out screw?

Don't worry about one screw you can add more screws to really seal it using a neoprene gasket

check out this thread

https://jetboaters.net/threads/need-help-lots-of-water-draining-from-plug-on-17-212x.23345/page-3

the cleats can be sealed with a rubber hose and stopper at one end. When loaded with ballast the cleat its under water they make them with a water run off system

https://www.greatlakesskipper.com/media/catalog/product/cache/7c4bf11e5b00fdb8413327136c54afc9/3/7/37abd201e08dafe9ae4ccd843fce593e.jpg

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

No scupper or check valve go the drain

Thanks @Neutron For me, the only time I get water in the bilge ( maybe a half gallon) is when I use the 5 gallon bucket and throw buckets of water on the deck to wash it down. I suspected the bow stowage lid was leaking a bit around the gasket, and possibly the deck drain in the rear. Confirmed yesterday that the rear deck drain leaks a little when the deck is draining, simple fix... I’ll tighten up the latch on the bow storage lid before heading out next time.

 

[Troy JK]

Check out what happens when you fill that compartment with water . Put a cork in the drain outlet run the hose until you have about 1'' to 2'' of water in the tray and watch how fast it pours out from hull drain plug , That oval center hatch does nothing to prevent water from entering the bilge it looks like it could seal but it doesn't. @Troy JK while you sealed the first area that water will still enter you have only slowed the water from entering eventually the clean out ports will fill then it will start to enter from the oval inspection hatch. if you do any type of water sports with a lot of stop and go it doesn't take long for the tray to fill up. for fresh water boaters its not a big deal but that salt water eats up all the hose clamps. If you wake surf with ballast you will take on a lot of water from this and the other point of entry are the retractable cleats.

While I was doing the work I thought that exact thing, that sealing the tray was might help but the water was still going to get into that pathetic inspection cover.
Was thinking that I would have to figure out a way to secure that. I was actually surprised to find the boat dry Sunday.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

I do have a pic of the opening while the tray was out.

View attachment 148063

Just noticed the tray design is a lot different on your boat than mine. Mine has two large channels, one on either side of the tray that water will run out of, so mine will not get more than a 1/4” of water on top of the tray...