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That's weird...with the drain channels you don't need the tube. Maybe the techs didn't get told a drain tube is not needed on the first runs of the new FSH deck?
That's weird...with the drain channels you don't need the tube. Maybe the techs didn't get told a drain tube is not needed on the first runs of the new FSH deck?
They should of had drain channels in all the boats. IMHO.
Maybe @drewkaree could cut some into his boat as a test case and glass it all in to make it look factory. With a write up and a video Then I would follow suit.
They should of had drain channels in all the boats. IMHO.
Maybe @drewkaree could cut some into his boat as a test case and glass it all in to make it look factory. With a write up and a video Then I would follow suit.
There's no way, first, I'd have to sign up for a class at the local community College, then, I'd have to research for weeks, start, stop, agonize over a different way that may or may not be better or more functional...
I'll stick to things that are EASY to screw up with the knowledge I already have.
I jacked up the bow of my boat yesterday afternoon, got it pretty high. I took a hose and sprayed the inside of the bilge area. Sprayed the inside of the rub rail really good and sprayed every fitting in the compartment. No leaks that I could see. I let the hose fill the bilge until it covered the bilge pump in the engine compartment. That's as high as I felt comfortable going. The only leak I found was the drain plug. I reached down and found if I hand tighten it as tight as I can get it, the leak stops. I really hesitated in tightening with a wrench, sure don't want to break that plug, so I put what ever I could on it by hand and it stopped. I have had the boat out about 10 times now and I have probably not tightened the plug that tight any time I have had it out, so I'm sure I have been taking on water from the drain plug every time. I can't wait to get it out again and see if this makes any difference. I will definitely take drew's suggestion on lubing that o-ring also.
I jacked up the bow of my boat yesterday afternoon, got it pretty high. I took a hose and sprayed the inside of the bilge area. Sprayed the inside of the rub rail really good and sprayed every fitting in the compartment. No leaks that I could see. I let the hose fill the bilge until it covered the bilge pump in the engine compartment. That's as high as I felt comfortable going. The only leak I found was the drain plug. I reached down and found if I hand tighten it as tight as I can get it, the leak stops. I really hesitated in tightening with a wrench, sure don't want to break that plug, so I put what ever I could on it by hand and it stopped. I have had the boat out about 10 times now and I have probably not tightened the plug that tight any time I have had it out, so I'm sure I have been taking on water from the drain plug every time. I can't wait to get it out again and see if this makes any difference. I will definitely take drew's suggestion on lubing that o-ring also.
That right there is the absolute LEAST effort, and FIRST idea to try. A lubed plug takes far less effort to screw into the fitting easily and snug enough, operative word being snug.
That plug is plastic, and I can see EASILY snapping off the molded tab by trying to wrench it tight with a dry o-ring.
If that were to happen on my boat with the crappy design of the fitting molded into the keel, I would be in a world of hurt. The drain plug on the articulating keels is SUCH a terrible idea that, IMO, aftermarket ideas for steering are superior to Yamaha's attempt to solve the issue of low speed steering
You don't need to tighten that hard normally, just turn it with finger and thumb till it's snug and stops. I'm betting you had some debris damage the O-ring or threads so it doesn't seal properly. Silicone spray is cheap, fast, and easy to keep all your hinges, seals, and rubber supple.
Has anyone tried sealing the cleanout deck access plates with waterproof tape? Maybe a try with flex seal or other tape could confirm if this area was the culprit.
Has anyone tried sealing the cleanout deck access plates with waterproof tape? Maybe a try with flex seal or other tape could confirm if this area was the culprit.
I've though about putting some over the outside of the drain locker just to see if it prevents any water when I pull the plug at the end of the day -- seems like I always have a gallon or so drain out. Last year on our older 08' AR210 we had the scupper valve break free while we were beaching. Luckily another boater on the beach had a tsunami pump for ballasts and we were able to use it to drain the water out of the transom/engine compartment and used the flex tape to get us back to the dock. I'll always carry some flex tape just in case from now on as it was a life safer in that instance.
Has anyone tried sealing the cleanout deck access plates with waterproof tape? Maybe a try with flex seal or other tape could confirm if this area was the culprit.
Screws were used to hold down the inspection port the first try was just two but it still leaked . The tray was filled with water I used the #2 rubber cork in the drain / fill hole I call it the fill hole because with al lot of stop and go water comes up thorough the hole into the tray then as the boat moves around it leaks water in the the bilge area. Neoprene gaskets were used on both the tray and clean out port I can fill it with water and nothing leaks into the bilge.
Amazon.com: Foam Tape Neoprene Closed Cell Rubber with PSA - Peel and Stick Adhesive one Side. Weather Stripping, Insulation, Sponge, Gasket - Many Thicknesses and Lengths. : Industrial & Scientific
www.amazon.com
I like to keep a small anchor in this area and when we load up with ballast and surf the water gets in and fills the tray then the rope gets soaked so I just pulled the hose and installed a one way valve so the water can't come in but can drain out.