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That is alot more hatch than i have, you would probably need 2 cans of spray glue. the tape i received in the Kit was 2", you would be a lot better off with 4" tape, i had to double mine up to get the coverage, than ran out at the very end. I know it is a pain, but taking that hatch off would make it way easier to do the job. this foam is heavy, and lining it up on a vertical surface, well.... it will be well worth the effort to take it off.
I totally agree, removal would be best for installing but...... It only has two hinges and a power lift and is very heavy. Plus, it has two built in lockers in the outer sides. By laying it upside down and/or on edge, it would have a lot of bad weight distribution on it. I believe it would be a B**** to relign as well. Doing the install in place is why I was thinking about the 1 1/2" but as I said, not much of a weight difference. Current eggcrate is 2 1/4" which is crumbling. I may have to install it in two sections and seam due to the weight. Hopefully, with the aide of the PSA & hangers it will go well. Big thing is positioning it in place leaving as much of the PSA paper backing on as I peel and pierce into the hanger pins. If not, I'll have to go through with removing it with at least three other helpers. Hopefully, the PSA is as agressive as Soundown is stating. Thanks again. Ray
I just reattached my upgraded sound absorbing materials and ended up adding a lot more pin and cap mounts this time around on the bottom and the side where the engine hatch material is concerned. The first upgrade I recommend is sealing the hatch opening.
fyi -PSA is short for pressure sensitive adhesive. Also generally speaking, the thicker the material the more effective it is. Finally, there are two types of sound that should to be considered, the sound produced by engine(s) and the Sound related to the vibrations produced by the engine(s), foam works best on the engine sounds and thinner rubber like tape reduces the vibrational sound. IMHO as a weekend shade tree mechanic.
Thanks for you input! Great job!! Soundown recommends hanger positioning to be one every 12 - 14". Due to the weight of the 2" which is 2Lbs per square foot, I may install more hangers as you did. I really don't get vibration in regards to both the hatch or engine. The 2 1/4" eggcrate does a great job in sound deadening as well. Plus that hatch doesn't budge do to it's weight. As I mentioned earlier on, Soundown stated that the PSA is extremely agressive...... I'm hoping they're being honest but, I don't see any reason why they wouldn't be. I've been conversing with them through several emails with several questions. They have been second to none in getting back with me right away which makes me feel their on the up & up. Reviews lean in that direction as well as the quality. I do have to say, it's a little pricy but, I don't want to go through all of this again. Hopefully..... LOL. Thanks again. Ray
That is alot more hatch than i have, you would probably need 2 cans of spray glue. the tape i received in the Kit was 2", you would be a lot better off with 4" tape, i had to double mine up to get the coverage, than ran out at the very end. I know it is a pain, but taking that hatch off would make it way easier to do the job. this foam is heavy, and lining it up on a vertical surface, well.... it will be well worth the effort to take it off.
There is one other thing that comes to mind in my situation. In regards to the pins, I can see if the hatch is upside down, you could lay the Soundown on top of it like a bed of nails. This would probably help position it properly pressing it straight down but, in my case I'll be installing on a 50 degree angle or so. Going with the 2" Soundown, I'll be using the 2 1/2" SS pins which I believe will have to be cut down to 2 1/4" to accept the washers & dome caps. With that being said, in all liklihood the Soundown won't stretch too much but, I'm hoping it will a touch. I plan on starting with the pins about 3-4" from the edges.... Hoping the PSA will help get me started. I would appreciate your thoughts along with anyone else that's worked with the 2" Soundown. Thanks. Ray
Wow!... This is a great post..
Thanks to Frank Marshall & FSH 210 Sport for the links and guidance to this insulation.
I have many projects ahead of me and thos is one long overdue.
I managed to strip most of the degraded foam with a shop vac las weekend but if I'm going to apply the adhesive, I will need to clean the hatch surface better..
I will definitely be covering all sides.
I'm concern though since on their website it recommends not to expose it to wet areas. My experience throughout the years with this boat, some water creeps in from the rear sitting area/hatch.
I just ordered the Soundown 1.5" Vinyl foam with PSA, tape and SS hangers & pins. Been looking for the right epoxy or adhesive for the hangers to adhere to fiberglass that has a decent high strength, heat rating along with being a fast cure. The closest adhesive I came across that may do the job is the 3M Marine Adhesive Sealant 5200 Fast Cure. One other option is an adhesive called Boss 180. It has great specs but, my only hesitation is that it doesn't state anything about using it on fiberglass. They emailed me back stating that it may work but, wasn't designed for my application.
I need it to be a fast cure if possible due to installing the hangers with the engine hatch in place. For those of you that used hangers, I would sincerely appreciate your input on what you used along with your thoughts? Maybe, I should create a new post specific to this.... Thanks! Ray
Why not just use fiberglass epoxy resin? Get some small / short screws to hold the pin bases on the hatch lid while the epoxy resin cures. Probably should use some short screws any way.
The West Marine west system resin are fool proof, equal pumps from each container into the cup to get the correct ratio.
Why not just use fiberglass epoxy resin? Get some small / short screws to hold the pin bases on the hatch lid while the epoxy resin cures. Probably should use some short screws any way.
The West Marine west system resin are fool proof, equal pumps from each container into the cup to get the correct ratio.
Thanks.... Not a bad idea and I do plan on using at least one very short screw for each hanger. In my photo, take a look at each rear side flat panel that has numbers on them. Those are thin base panels on the of the locker compartments in the rear of the hatch. I would say that they're about an 1/8" thick. Those, I would rather not install a screw. As is, I'm a little concerned about the weight of the Soundown itself but, I do believe it will be OK. This hatch I.M.O., is a poor design simply due to being cut up so much. Other than that, FourWinns builds a decent boat. Thanks again. Ray
Thanks.... Not a bad idea and I do plan on using at least one very short screw for each hanger. In my photo, take a look at each rear side flat panel that has numbers on them. Those are thin base panels on the of the locker compartments in the rear of the hatch. I would say that they're about an 1/8" thick. Those, I would rather not install a screw. As is, I'm a little concerned about the weight of the Soundown itself but, I do believe it will be OK. This hatch I.M.O., is a poor design simply due to being cut up so much. Other than that, FourWinns builds a decent boat. Thanks again. Ray
Must be coincidence then. I am unlucky when it come to those. I’m going out now to further troubleshoot the issue. I’ll report if I find anything. Been flawless for 5 years.
***UPDATE*** Found the problem. Hose came loose. I’m running off the hose on the trailer and the the bilge starts pumping water overboard. That ain’t right. Start tracing the hose and found it. Darn salt air eats everything. Going to replace all those connectors.
I found out that the engines were only 1 source of the noise. At low speed there was a slight improvement. At speed, wind and water noise were unchanged. The improvement was not noticeable at speed. I was disappointed.
I found out that the engines were only 1 source of the noise. At low speed there was a slight improvement. At speed, wind and water noise were unchanged. The improvement was not noticeable at speed. I was disappointed.
You mentioned data before, did you take any DB readings before and after?
Im not surprised by the wind and water noise, I’ve noticed that from the beginning…. But I can see the advantage of the sound proofing for trolling and slow family cruising.
You mentioned data before, did you take any DB readings before and after?
Im not surprised by the wind and water noise, I’ve noticed that from the beginning…. But I can see the advantage of the sound proofing for trolling and slow family cruising.
Thanks for the excel file! Its all self explanatory, except I do not know what is meant by “phone”. Looks like that achieved 2.7 Db decrease at no wake three which is roughly a halving of the perceived sound level
Right on… I’m pretty sure that is the same app I used on my iphone. Where did you measure the sound? I‘m assuming you measured it the same with both devices and at all recorded levels? Its interesting as in several places, to OEM foam was quieter than the sound down insulation when measured with the sound meter. But the phone app shows a decrease in sound across the board.
When I measured mine I put my phone on the dash and did all my testing there.
FWIW, as I mentioned previously, the installation of the Skat Trak impellers reduced the perceived sound by 50% alone at best cruise.
I'm hoping they're being honest but, I don't see any reason why they wouldn't be. I've been conversing with them through several emails with several questions. They have been second to none in getting back with me right away which makes me feel their on the up & up. Reviews lean in that direction as well as the quality. I do have to say, it's a little pricy but, I don't want to go through all of this again. Hopefully..... LOL. Thanks again. Ray
