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FSH 210 Soundproof

Can you post what throttle mods you have done? I find myself resting the back of my wrist on the throttle base, and using my finger to fine tune the throttles at cruise. Pain for sure.
 
here you go, its no mystery. throttle drop fixes are well documented on the forum. In addition to these videos you can also adjust the tension screws at the base of the throttles. for me it was huge difference in power management, one of the best things i have done. That throttle slop is so annoying.
How To Fix Throttle Drop on Yamaha Jet Boat - YouTube
throttle sync.
Yamaha Jet Boat Throttle Sync Cable Adjustment Video - YouTube

Thanks for posting the links @Dixemon!

It has been my experience that just taking the slack out of the throttle cables in the engine bay didn’t do it for me. The problem I have with synching is when I go from advancing the throttles to get up on plane and start backing down. The port throttle in my case is the one that has the dropping or excessive play issue and not the starboard ?. I think I need to perform the throttle drop fix on both throttles and then set about adjusting the throttle cables at the ETV controllers in the engine bay to get the ETV’s synchronized. It would be most awesome if I could get the throttle levers to be equal and the engines to be synched whether advancing or retarding the throttles. I use the Rpm gauges to get them close, then make minute adjustments until my ear says they are synched.

As a side note, if I’m not mistaken, the shop manual shows using an ohm and volt meter on the ETV controllers to properly synch the throttles and to check for WOT throttle and idle condition.
 
Mine is the same issue as @FSH 210 Sport Except I also did the throttle drop fix but not synced. Even if JBP had a sync for the newer boats is would not fix the issue. No big deal to manually sync them one at speed.
 
Took out this panel today. I thought this would give me more access to the bottom of the helm area. It didn't. I put sound deading foam on the fuel tank cover and all above the fuel tank, fuel tank hatch and the panel I took out.
 

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So I ended up installing the Soundown i ordered from defender. The actual sheet measurement when received was 54.5"x33"x2" so they give you a bit extra than what they advertise. At least that's what I ended up with. Looking back, the 1 1/2" version would have been a better choice for the FSH. It fits fine and works, but is pretty tight to close the lid.
Soundown Sound-Stop Foam Panel with 1lb Barrier Layer | Defender

Also, ordered the installation kit. Which i wish i would have received stainless pins, but the aluminum worked out fine. I wouldn't even consider installing this foam without the mechanical Fastners. It is very heavy duty, with a thick gasket material sandwiched between the two pieces of foam.
Soundown 28/AC-AL Noise Reduction Installation Kit - NACAL | Defender

Old delaminated foam
View attachment 194359View attachment 194364
2" soundown, completely different league in quality from original.View attachment 194360View attachment 194366
Clean hatchView attachment 194361View attachment 194362View attachment 194363
What did you use to remove the adhesive residue?
 
I got good results in reducing the engine sound by putting pipe insulation around the edges of the engine bay where the hatch meets the body of the boat. $5 for the pipe insulation from Home Depot. Noticeable sound reduction.
 
I got good results in reducing the engine sound by putting pipe insulation around the edges of the engine bay where the hatch meets the body of the boat. $5 for the pipe insulation from Home Depot. Noticeable sound reduction.

Pics please.
 
The FSHdoesn't need pipe insulation for the hatch lid as the engine top foam contacts the edges of the engine compartment lip.
 
The FSHdoesn't need pipe insulation for the hatch lid as the engine top foam contacts the edges of the engine compartment lip.
Yeah wasn't sure on that. Also some of the newer model AR's now come with that insulation already. But wanted to share in case.
 
So I ended up installing the Soundown i ordered from defender. The actual sheet measurement when received was 54.5"x33"x2" so they give you a bit extra than what they advertise. At least that's what I ended up with. Looking back, the 1 1/2" version would have been a better choice for the FSH. It fits fine and works, but is pretty tight to close the lid.
Soundown Sound-Stop Foam Panel with 1lb Barrier Layer | Defender

Also, ordered the installation kit. Which i wish i would have received stainless pins, but the aluminum worked out fine. I wouldn't even consider installing this foam without the mechanical Fastners. It is very heavy duty, with a thick gasket material sandwiched between the two pieces of foam.
Soundown 28/AC-AL Noise Reduction Installation Kit - NACAL | Defender

Old delaminated foam
View attachment 194359View attachment 194364
2" soundown, completely different league in quality from original.View attachment 194360View attachment 194366
Clean hatchView attachment 194361View attachment 194362View attachment 194363

I'm going to order the same with PSA (Panel Selfstick Adhesive) backing and SS pins as you suggested. I noticed that you didn't use the Soundown tape for the edges. Are you planning on it or do you feel it's not necessary? Also, how far are your pins fron the edges? Looks to be around 3-4"". Thanks, Ray
 
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I'm going to order the same with PSA (Panel Selfstick Adhesive) backing and SS pins as you suggested. I noticed that you didn't use the Soundown tape for the edges. Are you planning on it or do you feel it's not necessary? Also, how far are your pins fron the edges? Looks to be around 3-4"". Thanks, Ray
I didn't use a PSA backed foam. Also, my install kit did not come with stainless pins. You will need to call and ask about that. I did use the soundown tape for the edges that was included in the installation package, along with the spray glue and pins. you will have to eyeball the distance on the pins, I cant recall but I set them back just enough to be out of the way of the sealing rim for the engine bay.
 
I didn't use a PSA backed foam. Also, my install kit did not come with stainless pins. You will need to call and ask about that. I did use the soundown tape for the edges that was included in the installation package, along with the spray glue and pins. you will have to eyeball the distance on the pins, I cant recall but I set them back just enough to be out of the way of the sealing rim for the engine bay.
Thanks for the great info.! I kind of figured you used the tape, I just wasn't sure. I've been in contact with Soundown in which they have the SS pins. I'm going to go with them but, I also think you'll be fine with the aluminum pins. Adhesive is very important as well. With my situation, I'm not going to remove my heavy hatch on my FourWinns 244 deck boat. According to Soundown the PSA is extremely aggressive which is going to save me from using either a spraying and/or rolling adhesive. As you can imagine, this will save me an enormous amount of prep and work. The biggest P.I.A. will be removing my eggcrate foam and cleaning the engine hatch real good.... which you have of course, experienced. I debating between the 1 1/2" and 2". With that being said, there isn't much of a weight difference therefore, I'm leaning towards the 2". May I ask, what width tape did you end up using? I'm thinking 4" due to having to wrap around on the top/bottom. Picture below is what I'm faced with which is 36 x 72" at it's widest. Thanks again, appreciate your input.

Hatch 1.jpg
 
That is alot more hatch than i have, you would probably need 2 cans of spray glue. the tape i received in the Kit was 2", you would be a lot better off with 4" tape, i had to double mine up to get the coverage, than ran out at the very end. I know it is a pain, but taking that hatch off would make it way easier to do the job. this foam is heavy, and lining it up on a vertical surface, well.... it will be well worth the effort to take it off.
 
I just reattached my upgraded sound absorbing materials and ended up adding a lot more pin and cap mounts this time around on the bottom and the side where the engine hatch material is concerned. The first upgrade I recommend is sealing the hatch opening.

fyi -PSA is short for pressure sensitive adhesive. Also generally speaking, the thicker the material the more effective it is. Finally, there are two types of sound that should to be considered, the sound produced by engine(s) and the Sound related to the vibrations produced by the engine(s), foam works best on the engine sounds and thinner rubber like tape reduces the vibrational sound. IMHO as a weekend shade tree mechanic.

001C3FAE-2743-4429-8170-855A2D7337C3.jpeg26F0F8AF-CD82-46E7-A0EF-62074BFB44BF.jpeg
 
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