Has anyone ever tapped / threaded 5200?

[drewkaree]

Looking to solve a problem with bolts, and I know you can drill into 5200 after it's cured, but I'm wondering anyone has also tapped the hole, and if it worked out, or if there's a better material to try.

Already have an existing hole, looking to perhaps goop it in and create a slightly bigger area to hold 3-5 threads on a 1/4-20 bolt.

@zipper?

 

[AZMark]

5200 still has a wee bit of flex even when cured.

Maybe drill the hole out a little and 5200 a nut of some sort (hex or more of a sleeve) in there?

 

[drewkaree]

5200 still has a wee bit of flex even when cured.

Maybe drill the hole out a little and 5200 a nut of some sort (hex or more of a sleeve) in there?

So, this is for my cleanout tray. MANY of the weld nuts fell off that I used 4200 on, and any little bit that I got on the threads made it impossible to remove the bolt without pulling off the nut too.

I was hoping for some product to fill all the holes with, and then drill/tap new holes as I reinstall the bolts I have.

The slight flexibility sounds like it'll perform better than the 4200, but ultimately the same result. It may be a solution if I go back to screws, I was just trying to use what I have on-hand, and possibly more permanent or durable

 

[diehard]

use a stainless nut sert (rivet nut)

 

[drewkaree]

use a stainless nut sert (rivet nut)

Took a look at those. Looks like it won't hold in fiberglass, but what's your thoughts on how to use it? I haven't used them, so your experience with them would help.

 

[diehard]

i use them in aluminum tube for rod holders and they work fine, they make longer ones that will mushroom more for fiberglass or if you can get a washer over the bottom side before you compress the nut sert it should be fine i think the standard long nut sert would be fine in fiberglass

 

[diehard]

or just use a jack nut they spread out pretty big no need for a washer,but i dont know if you can find them in stainless

 

[zipper]

Looking to solve a problem with bolts, and I know you can drill into 5200 after it's cured, but I'm wondering anyone has also tapped the hole, and if it worked out, or if there's a better material to try.

Already have an existing hole, looking to perhaps goop it in and create a slightly bigger area to hold 3-5 threads on a 1/4-20 bolt.

@zipper?

No, never tapped 5200. What I did was fill the stripped out holes on the clean out plug tray with 5200, let it harden and redrill to accept the same screws. That worked as long as you do not overtighten. A better filler would be epoxy. Experiment and let us know.

 

[VitaminSea]

Marine-Tex - Its a two part epoxy, applies similarly to the gel-coat paste from Spectrum. Its sold on Amazon and elsewhere, and since its around your clean out try, the difference in the white gel coat and the Marine-Tex shouldn’t be visible.


Marine-Tex is a creamy paste consistency that can be applied on vertical or horizontal surfaces, easily fills gaps, and can be shaped to rebuild damaged components. Marine-Tex paste provides waterproof repairs that can be used with fiberglass tape or cloth to bridge holes and reinforce structural repairs as needed.Emergency and permanent repairs to machinery and equipment, hulls, decks, stripped fasteners, piping and tanks are all easily accomplished with the mighty repair kit. Marine-Tex can be sanded or ground to shape, tapped and drilled, and finished with most common paints and coatings.

 

[HangOutdoors]

Marine-Tex is great stuff. @drewkaree that is what I used on several of my bolts on my clean out trayy

 

[drewkaree]

Now that it's mentioned, I think someone used Marine Tex for repairs when replacing the captain's chair on their boat, although I think it was for a waterproof patch that wouldn't be seen, not for structural needs.

or just use a jack nut they spread out pretty big no need for a washer,but i dont know if you can find them in stainless

Those look really interesting, I never knew those even existed! You might be right, a quick look didn't turn up any stainless, but a deeper dive may be in order. I can see those being super useful for audio setups and whatnot. Thanks!

No, never tapped 5200. What I did was fill the stripped out holes on the clean out plug tray with 5200, let it harden and redrill to accept the same screws. That worked as long as you do not overtighten. A better filler would be epoxy. Experiment and let us know.

The overtightening is why I'm trying to stick with bolts, even though screws would be easier. I had some of the screws direct from the factory already stripped out, so I'm gun shy about having the same thing happen.

Epoxy was my original thought when I first tackled this, but I couldn't wrap my head around how to not have epoxy leaking all over the bilge. I think I was only considering it as an adhesive, and not the actual material to utilize for the purpose. Nice!

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

JB weld makes a marine epoxy that I have not tried yet, but I have some still in the package. In the instructions it says it turns white when it is fully cured. While I’m not looking at the package, JB weld products I’ve used in the past say it can be drilled and tapped.

When you are putting stuff together and epoxy or sealant is around, put some grease into the threads of the nuts and on the bolt, just wipe off the bolt with a paper towel and there will still be grease in threads. When you assemble the epoxy will not be able to get into the nut, and said grease will get pushed out by the screw / bolt. As I just mentioned in another related post, when the time comes I’d like to use threaded aluminum blocks epoxied to the underside. Seems like you could get some pieces of flat stock and make several pieces that could be epoxied on the underside with the screw holes drilled and tapped.

 

[AZMark]

JB weld makes a marine epoxy that I have not tried yet, but I have some still in the package. In the instructions it says it turns white when it is fully cured. While I’m not looking at the package, JB weld products I’ve used in the past say it can be drilled and tapped.

When you are putting stuff together and epoxy or sealant is around, put some grease into the threads of the nuts and on the bolt, just wipe off the bolt with a paper towel and there will still be grease in threads. When you assemble the epoxy will not be able to get into the nut, and said grease will get pushed out by the screw / bolt. As I just mentioned in another related post, when the time comes I’d like to use threaded aluminum blocks epoxied to the underside. Seems like you could get some pieces of flat stock and make several pieces that could be epoxied on the underside with the screw holes drilled and tapped.

I’ve used that JB weld marine to fix gouges in a jet ski hull and it worked very well and dries hard enough to be sanded into shape. I’m sure it would take a tap for something non structural.

 

[1WetBoat]

Those look really interesting, I never knew those even existed! You might be right, a quick look didn't turn up any stainless, but a deeper dive may be in order. I can see those being super useful for audio setups and whatnot. Thanks!

Stainless Steel JackNuts

 

[drewkaree]

Stainless Steel JackNuts

That link, reading the reviews is one of those facepalm moments. Sure, it sucks if you were hoping for stainless and they sent you zinc, but they make it sound like what they were shipped was due to some personal vendetta against them or something. Just send the damn things back and keep checking "wrong item sent", and specify that they're sending zinc. Either Amazon will boot them, or Amazon themselves will have the correct one in a warehouse and send it, or....

The other reviews that get me are - actual example on this one too - order something that's $500, and if it goes tits up before it's ever put into use (their words, not my interpretation of their words), "I wrote to Amazon, and nobody responded back, so I just chucked it in the trash. Wasted money". Like, wtf, who just has $500 to throw in the trash at the least little problem? 1, I don't believe you did this for a second. 2, why do you bother to post such nonsense reviews? 3, are you like this in real life, if someone doesn't respond in an instant, you write them off? Those people come off as someone I hope I never meet IRL, they've got too much nonsense floating around in their head that I don't want to be infected by, or ruin a day if they're around and lose it on some hapless server who's working their first day and was cursed to have their table.

 

[sunbyrned]

Wonder if sealant screws/bolts have any potential in your case? Don’t know anything about them but came across this while trying to look into something to help.

Sealing Screws and Bolts - ZAGO

The Idea Where harsh climates attack, ZAGO protects. Where pressure from water or gas threatens, ZAGO defends. Introducing ZAGO's exceptional line of self-sealing screws, bolts and nuts. Designed for ultimate deterrence and for the roughest conditions, these self-sealing fasteners will create...

zago.com

 

[Coult45]

When I hit the Pro Wrestling tour next season, I'm going to change my name to Stainless Steel JackNuts.

 

[1WetBoat]

That link, reading the reviews is one of those facepalm moments. Sure, it sucks if you were hoping for stainless and they sent you zinc, but they make it sound like what they were shipped was due to some personal vendetta against them or something. Just send the damn things back and keep checking "wrong item sent", and specify that they're sending zinc. Either Amazon will boot them, or Amazon themselves will have the correct one in a warehouse and send it, or....

The other reviews that get me are - actual example on this one too - order something that's $500, and if it goes tits up before it's ever put into use (their words, not my interpretation of their words), "I wrote to Amazon, and nobody responded back, so I just chucked it in the trash. Wasted money". Like, wtf, who just has $500 to throw in the trash at the least little problem? 1, I don't believe you did this for a second. 2, why do you bother to post such nonsense reviews? 3, are you like this in real life, if someone doesn't respond in an instant, you write them off? Those people come off as someone I hope I never meet IRL, they've got too much nonsense floating around in their head that I don't want to be infected by, or ruin a day if they're around and lose it on some hapless server who's working their first day and was cursed to have their table.

Lol, wow, just read some of them, crazy!!!

 

[biffdotorg]

I would agree with the above.

Just this spring, I helped fill some screw holes on an AR210 with 5200. These were for the cleanout hatch hinges. I then used the factory screws directly into the 5200. Let's just say, it's holding, and better than no hold, but it was like screwing into an eraser.

I have used marine tex before when one of our GP1300r's t-boned the other. I was able to fill, sand and paint that stuff. It's as rock solid as the original Gelcote. It's a bit more of a mess to work with, but on white gelcote, I think you will be happy with the results.

Good luck!

 

[TeenGee]

I used these to install my GPS in my console.

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

I bought the ones with the prongs and just flattened out the prongs.
These would probably work with fiberglass also. Put a little sealant between the flange and the fiberglass.

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com