@help <submerged engine now tachs don't work>

[gthh]

ok I forgot to put in my drain plug and flooded my engine compartment up to the injectors. Well back to the docks and on the trailer for a 20 min drain. Back out on the water and everything is ok but both RPM gauges are stuck on 500. Speedometer works and so does wake mode no flashing lights though. Should I scuttle our overnight or ignore the tach problem until I get back home. Location. Finger lakes Seneca lake. Ported at Sampson Park Marinia
Thanks

 

[Julian]

In the engine compartment behind the round white plastic access port on the starboard side are the wires that allow you to connect YDS to the engines. There are grey connectors there that might have gotten wet and be causing the problem. I'd open that hatch (4-5 screws) and pull the two grey connectors apart (should be labeled port and starboard) and dry the connectors as best you can.

Not sure I'd worry If that didn't work....

 

[Julian]

I edited your title so it draws more attention. Also adding @HELP

Fyi....putting it in the title does not work.

 

[gthh]

Thanks Julian. You know before I lift I played with my "monkey". And might have left the connectors unplugged I will check

 

[KXCam22]

There is also a round cover that contains fuses for each engine. The large fuse is starting and it must be ok but the small fuse provides power to the dash. Something to check. Cam.

 

[itsdgm]

Thanks Julian. You know before I lift I played with my "monkey". And might have left the connectors unplugged I will check

That might be it. My tacs don't work if my YDS plugs are disconnected.

 

[Scottintexas]

@gthh glad to hear you made it off the water ok,

Did you have your bilge pump on? I forgot my transom plug one day and before I made it back to the dock from parking the trailer it was already pumping and a good visual signal that something's not right,

It's always good when your on the water your bilge pump is on and part of the routine during the day is checking to see if you pee holes are working and that your bilge is not.

I'm not sure where the rpm get's it reading from the engine to know if the connection could be exposed. Strange your no wake lights flashed, I would have thought if your YDS connecters were not hooked up your no wake would not have worked,

If it's running fine I don't think I would let the tach issue stop from enjoying a weekend.

 

[Gym]

I would also check the oil on both engines just to make sure no water got in there.

 

[itsdgm]

Great idea @Gym.

 

[buckbuck]

You said "up to the injectors". That is a potentially serious issue. I would not be concerned so much about the tachs as I would about water internally. Also the entire under seating area is now wet. I would change the oil and run it awhile and then change again. I probably be concerned about water in the fuel as the rear of the boat had to be underwater. I personally would not risk being far from home and help if that happened to me.

 

[Big Shasta]

If it's running fine, you dodged a huge bullet. Think water ingestion and hydrolocking destroying your motors as a worse case scenario. Take off the air filters and make sure they aren't wet. Keep an eye on the oil and look for any creamy colors that would indicate water in the oil.

Did you not have the bilge pump on? scary lesson learned there if not. I flippin hate the bilge pump switch....at the very least, the switch should be forced on automatically when the engines are on. I wired mine straight to the batteries when I replaced it with a Rule Mate water sensing pump that doesn't have to run to check for water. Not possible to forget it. I love the idea of a high water alarm in the engine compartment too but I never got around to adding one.

 

[McMark]

When you say turn on the bilge pump, do you leave it actually running all day or on automatic/float sensing?

 

[biglar155]

I'd be nervous about water in the oil or fuel as well. I'd dump a can of HEET (Or Dri-Gas or whatever flavor you prefer) in the tank to help with that. You're also going to want to spray some sort of water-displacing lubricant (I'm thinking Corrosion-X or a similar product) on the outside of the engines to inhibit rust.

I'm with @Big Shasta on that stupid bilge pump switch. I forget it many times. I DID add a high-water alarm to my bilge though, so I do have some peace of mind. I'll know about a problem long before I've got water halfway up the engines. (My pre-engine start routine at the beginning of the day is to reach in and flip the float to make sure the alarm is working. Also gives me a chance to use the Mark-I Sniffer (handily stored between my eyeballs) to check for gas vapor.)

 

[Big Shasta]

When you say turn on the bilge pump, do you leave it actually running all day or on automatic/float sensing?

The pump won't do anything if the switch on the dash isn't on. Not sure how it works on the new boats though. On the older ones, the pump has to run every few minutes to check for water. The Rule Mate I installed is water sensing so it doesn't have to run to see if there is water. But unless you wire it straight to the batteries like I did, It still won't work unless the switch on the dash is on.

 

[gthh]

Thank you everyone all is well. I spent the day Ripping the lake without to many problems. I was changing out my bunks while she sat in the water. I flipped the switch but it was not the pump-oops and she sat in a slip drawing water for around 30 min. before I noticed her listing. I will check the oil but she ran all day with out a problem. The RPM issue was the plugs Thanks again and I am glad you guys have my back when I am out there!

 

[Jerry Ferrera]

I am going through the same thing, just happened to me and I'm placing a claim through my insurance company. I'll attach pictures for your laughing pleasure at my expense.

please enjoy but don't be to cruel.

 

[Scottintexas]

@Jerry Ferrera did your engines stall out, did you try to run them? Don't try to start them until we know how high the water was or if the engine stalled.

It's hard for me to tell from the pictures how high the water was in the engine bay, if it's not above the intakes you may be ok with just a wet boat,

 

[Jerry Ferrera]

water was covering the fuel hatch and all the way into the storage locker. unfortunately I did try and start it. I had to have Boat US come out and pump water out salvage charge is $2400 pumped for 20 minutes. and then floated to trailer.

my concern is electrical and insurance, this is all salt water damage not fresh.

 

[Jerry Ferrera]

I'm sure this will cause problems from now on. I'm a glass half full guy when it comes to electronics.

 

[gthh]

Jerry, I felt your pain! You may be surprised how much water you can take on in your engine compartment. From what can see, you may be OK . After my experience ( I was so glad I had that extra bilge pump) when all the water was pumped out I took the boat out for a day and not a problem. The tach problem was due to not plugging my diagnostic cable (forgot I was playing with my monkey-for you old timers).

btw. I was in a "fresh" water lake when this happened