Hole for cig lighter?

[tdonoughue]

Ok, this is a semi-electrical question:

I have an extra cigarette lighter outlet thingy I want to install. I can make a hole no problem. But the stock hole for the cigarette lighter outlet is flat on the sides so that it does not spin in the hole. Anyone know of a good way to make the funky hole with the flat sides? I guess I could drill a smaller hole and then file out the top/bottom. Or just drill the bigger hole...

Is there a better way?

 

[Wayloncle]

I'd just drill a hole, I've never twisted anything to put it in or out of an outlet.

 

[txav8r]

Measure three times, and follow @Wayloncle 's thought. If you want flat sides, cut or hone them into your hole. I'm not sure why that is important, because you don't twist a 12v outlet, you just insert and remove. If your going to install a secondary, make sure it has the amp capacity to do you the good you want. The high pressure pumps draw a big amount of amps, well over the stock cigarette lighter plug, that is intended to charge cell phones and the like, not run big pumps.

Most of the 12v ports don't have flat sides anyway, so I don't know exactly why it would be important, but if it is, just fabricate it.

 

[tdonoughue]

All I can say is that you guys are not nearly anal enough.

No worries on the amps. I just got a new air pump that will be hard wired to the battery (via fused block) and the main thing we use them for is charging cell phones. In fact, I just replaced the one in the dash with a double USB one because that is the most used mode.

On the whole, though, I do have to admit you are probably right. I shouldn't worry about it and just cut the big hole...

 

[David D]

I just got a new air pump that will be hard wired to the battery (via fused block) ...

Ok - so I like this idea. But my boat is smaller and has a single battery. I plan on adding LEDs and, now, this hard wired pump.

But I'm wondering if a single battery is too little power. My plan was to buy a jump pack in case I run the battery down. But should I add a second battery? I know the pump draws a lot of power, but it's for a short time. The LEDs won't draw much.

What would you guys recommend?

 

[tdonoughue]

@David D , usually it is the guys with large sound systems that really need to worry about this. I can't see just the pump really drawing your battery down that much that you will require a second battery. And, as you note, the LED's have almost no draw at all.

That said, when I bought my boat that was the one thing I had the dealer install (actually, throw in): a second battery and switch. Just as a backup and peace of mind. Later, when I added an amp, etc., I also installed an automatic switch kit to make one the house battery and the other the engine battery.

The idea on here that I really liked and have not yet done (but probably will) is to add a little digital voltmeter to each battery. Rather than guessing how long one can go on the battery and how much it is charging how fast, etc., you can just look... Then, if you are drawing it down too much, add a second battery. Until then, carry your jump pack (I have one of these, too, in addition to the double batteries, but more to help other boaters--I don't want to play with jumper cables in the water hooked to my batteries).

 

[txav8r]

And to expand the thinking just a little @David D , a high pressure pump may draw a good many amps but it is short lived. And too, generally, if your going to inflate something like a tube, you will then be running while pulling the tube, so you are recharging the drain you put on the battery. Like @tdonoughue mentioned, it is usually the higher amp draw stereo systems that are played for extended periods of time that put the big drain on a battery(s). That kind of drain would take hours to recover from while running, and that is why the bigger battery banks are added, to get more play time. No matter how many batteries you have, a good shore charging maintenance program is necessary to keep the battery bank you have to get the maximum life out of them, and to keep you from letting down the kids, friends, or momma!

And to the pumps, the HP pumps really do need a direct connection, even a high amp cigarette style receptacle would be less capable IMO than a direct link to the battery. But hooking clips to the battery time and again can be a real pain, that is why guys put in the plugs. I just put a couple of buses in addition to my dual batteries, switch, and ACR. That way, I can just hook to the easily reachable ground and ACC bus for the pump.

On a related note, many guys find that the XM sat that many boats have, in addition to some computer function of the boat, will put a drain on the batteries over time too. That is another reason for a way to disconnect the batteries when not in use, if you don't have the means to keep them on a charger/maintainer...and I always recommend a state of the art smart charger, such as a Pulsetech or Ctek charger, to keep the batteries in tip top condition.

There are many ways to skin the cat, the better you understand the cat, the more likely you will find the best way to skin it! Welcome to the forum!

 

[David D]

Thanks Guys! @txav8r, I'm unclear on the ACC bus. Are you saying you have an inverter with AC power? Or am I way off in my understanding of what you're saying?

 

[Andy S]

@David D I only have one battery with 3 additional 12 vdc jacks and 8 20" LED strip on my interior and 3 underwater LED lights and never have a problem with battery drain. Like @txav8r said having a good onboard or external battery charger/maintainer is the best method to keep your battery at full strength.

As for the ACC bus that @txav8r talks about it is something he has added, I have added one myself. This gives you a place to add fuse circuits for additional electrical needs. Here is a picture of my ACC bus, just below and to the left of battery switch..

 

[txav8r]

No, no...I put in a simple 4 post bus. Both a ground, and a positive bus, to be used for accessories or the positive cables of anything...here is the bus used for both.

And here is the first setup I used them with, when I just added a switch, ACR, and the buses with the second battery.

And after I added the stereo and other equipment, the buses really paid off.

I am changing this up a little to isolate my stereo battery now a little better, but I will have to redraw that one!

 

[Andy S]

An ACC bus bar can be fused or unfused both methods work fine.

 

[txav8r]

Yes, you can fuse the bar if you wish, but all the items you hook to it are probably fused on their individual circuits already. View a bus bar as just a junction or connection point, a distribution block, etc. It isn't complex, it is just a convenience.

 

[ArmyChief]

So, I'm going to be adding a VHF & cigar outlet at the helm. Probably another cigar outlet in glovebox. I have a blueseas fuse box. Should I just add a ground busbar by the battery and then the fuse panel off the battery switch. Running all wire from helm/glovebox back to fuse/busbar?

 

[Andy S]

So, I'm going to be adding a VHF & cigar outlet at the helm. Probably another cigar outlet in glovebox. I have a blueseas fuse box. Should I just add a ground busbar by the battery and then the fuse panel off the battery switch. Running all wire from helm/glovebox back to fuse/busbar?

That is what I would do.

 

[billyb]

So, I'm going to be adding a VHF & cigar outlet at the helm. Probably another cigar outlet in glovebox. I have a blueseas fuse box. Should I just add a ground busbar by the battery and then the fuse panel off the battery switch. Running all wire from helm/glovebox back to fuse/busbar?

I am getting ready to add my fuse box next week and after reading this post I am confused.

Do I need a bus at as well?

I was planning on running a positive and negative 10awg wire off the house battery (fused within a foot of the battery) to the fuse box.

Thanks!!!

Edit: here is my fuse box I will be installing...it describes a negative bus...which is why I didn't think I needed a bus bar...but I am not an electrician.

http://www.overtons.com/modperl/product/details.cgi?pdesc=Blue-Sea-Common-Sourced-ST-Blade-Fuse-Block-12-Circuits-w/Negative-Bus&i=85179&r=view&from=grid

 

[Julian]

A bus bar is simply a convenient way to handle all the positive or negative wires and only have one wire to connect to the batteries. So not needed...but convenient and tidy.

 

[Andy S]

I am getting ready to add my fuse box next week and after reading this post I am confused.

Do I need a bus at as well?

I was planning on running a positive and negative 10awg wire off the house battery (fused within a foot of the battery) to the fuse box.

Thanks!!!

Edit: here is my fuse box I will be installing...it describes a negative bus...which is why I didn't think I needed a bus bar...but I am not an electrician.

http://www.overtons.com/modperl/product/details.cgi?pdesc=Blue-Sea-Common-Sourced-ST-Blade-Fuse-Block-12-Circuits-w/Negative-Bus&i=85179&r=view&from=grid

That unit handles all the positive/fused connections and all the associated ground connections. It looks like the ground from the battery connects to the top of the unit and all the circuit ground connection are directly below. Looks like a nice clean unit.

 

[billyb]

Thanks guys, much appreciated.

 

[David D]

I just installed the one you posted. If I read it correctly, you are running your positive directly from the battery. I suggest you tap into the main power cutoff switch instead. That way, when you kill the switch, you kill everything.

The fuse box you show has both positive (along the fuses) and negative blocks.

 

[David D]

I have pics on my phone -- I'll try to post from it or my iPad -- if not, when I get back to my computer ... probably like you, I thought about how to do this for a week while trying to sleep. It ended up being a piece of cake once I got started.